We did our first, and so far only, river cruise just before covid hit in October 2019.
Because we had never done one before we chose a seven night Amsterdam to Basel trip, with Scenic. Like a previous poster it was by far the most expensive per night trip we've ever had.
We did enjoy it, but it was somewhat marred by a couple of things. My husband became ill, just with a cold, but it meant he couldn't really join in much as even before covid, you didn't feel comfortable at communal dining tables coughing and spluttering. I suspect we would have enjoyed it more had he been perfectly well.
The other thing was the constant worry about water levels in the lead up to the trip. Many, many cruises were affected in the months prior to us leaving. I really hate bus tours and this would have been the most expensive bus tour of all time. I had a plan B worked out whereby we could visit almost all of the stops by train, so our plan was if we were stopped with high or low water issues, we'd pull out of the cruise, do the trip by train, and worry about getting any possible refunds when we returned.
Luckily this didn't happen and all my stressing and planning was for nought.
Scenic really is all inclusive, so once on board we literally did not spend one cent.
We had been to Amsterdam before, but really enjoyed it, so we flew in three days early and spent that time exploring things we had missed the first time. The ship also had one full day in Amsterdam, so we had lots of time there. We did the pre-cruise independently and also our flights. I like to be in control, not at the mercy of a cruise company, and it worked well.
The times we had in port on the Rhine were actually perfect. They were all smallish towns so there was plenty of time for our included walking tours and some independent exploration. Could we have used more time? Of course we could, but that is the case for any travel anyway in my opinion.
The lack of packing and unpacking was also very good, but I didn't like the regimentation of the cruise. We are late eaters, but dinner was always at 7pm. Breakfast was also earlier than we preferred. There was very little night time entertainment, although for us, dinner is usually our entertainment, but not when it is at 7 and over by 8.
There was only one stop that we didn't join in with and that was Strasbourg. We were supposed to dock very close to the city. We had visited earlier that year for five nights, but there were still things that we had missed so we were looking forward to an extra day. Unfortunately our Captain decided to dock over 30km from Strasbourg in a small French village, for a reason that wasn't ever properly explained. This involved a bus trip to Strasbourg, which we hate, so we opted to remain on board.
As my husband was still not 100% and I felt I was getting it too, a lazy day, with a short stroll around the village was perfect for us.
After the cruise ended in Basel, we did a self-arranged overnight stay, with a walking tour, before then independently flying to Vienna for a week with some friends, then catching the train onto Budapest for another six days. We also did a daytrip to the Wachau Valley on the Danube, so got to see quite a lot of what we would have seen on the longer Amsterdam to Budapest cruise.