Our trip to Pompeii and Naples for 7 nights / 6 days was fascinating. Especially as we stayed out in Pompei, (one i), the small modern town next to the ruins, not in Naples, which would have been even more chaotic than Rome over the Christmas holidays. Our hotel was away from the main Pompeii entrance, by the eastern entrance which is much less chaotic with a very pleasant, Italian ‘feel’ and mostly locals wandering the streets.
Weather It was a pleasant 45F - 50F, but there was a brisk breeze blowing & we wore winter jackets with lighter pants. I had a wool headband & gloves.
It was my 3rd visit to the area, but first for Hubby - Pompeii and the Archaeological Museum of Naples (MANN) were his main requests. It’s not exactly dragging me along, as I still remembered my first visit 25 years ago, especially to the MANN Museum of Archeology in Naples. Alas, we both got sick during the trip so never made it to Herculaneum. Sad face.
Prep for trip - I worked with a PT to strengthen my core / ability to walk distance for 6 months ahead of trip, it made a huge difference! One exercise was walking in the pool all summer, as we walked 6-7 miles a day & much of it was over rough ground.
I used a hard copy RS Guide to Naples & Pompeii and many threads on RS (thanks to all of you!). We also watched a long 4-K walking tour of both Pompeii and Herculaneum on YouTube.,https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y__fRvziRko, the more info the better ahead of any trip, IMO. Pam mentioned following restaurants, I ‘followed’ Pompeii & MANN museum on Instagram, it updated with some interesting tidbits, exhibits, what areas were closed for renovation, etc. We watched “the New Dig” on PBS, it really helped us understand what we were seeing, And since arriving back in Sweden, we’ve started watching it again, haha. i’m reading “The Buried City, The Secret Pompeii” by the director of Pompeii Dr Gabriel Zuchteigel. Not as dry as it sounds, it’s surprisingly humorous and an excellent read about antiquity, perspective of history & Pompeii. https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/212402935-the-buried-city We watched a lot of Youtube videos about the MANN museum, the RS video was pretty good. I used Apple Notes to amass, well, notes, separately for Naples, Pompeii & Herculaneum.
When researching where to stay, I looked at the Sorrento hotels, which were either already sold out in July for the coming December, or more expensive. Then this caught my eye - Thanks to Estimated Prophet’s recommendation to stay AT Pompeii, Hotel Forum. A very nice hotel €180 per night & a 5-minute walk to Pompeii scavi entrance, (an easy walk to the main train line, (not the Circumvesuviana) 40% CHEAPER over the holidays than Sorrento with a large, comfy 25 sqm room, a quaint town if we just wanted to walk minutes down the street for a meal, and a very quiet location. https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/italy/staying-in-pompei. The food at the hotel was excellent! Ample breakfast and a very good all-day dinner menu, including large dinner salads, we also had VERY good pasta several nights, it just made the trip easier for us. And wonderful staff, from front desk to breakfast to room cleaners, the service was excellent. (Have I already said ‘excellent’ too many times… ah well.) There are numerous little cafes along the street, we had takeaway mozzarella with tomato panini steps to the right out the front door, and quite good pizza about 100 yards to the right of hotel. https://www.hotelforumpompeii.com/en/
Logistics - Porta Marina (busiest, near the Circumvesuviana train station & where we met our Askos Tour guide), Piazza Anfiteatro (quieter, near the amphitheater, good for direct access to eastern part of scavi, much shorter lines & only a 5 minute walk to Hotel Forum). We ordered a car pickup to & from NAP airport through the hotel, he was great and on time with Whatsapp details, late evening pick up & early departure ~€100 each way.