Edinburgh

I spent 5 days there last September, with just 1 day spent outside on a day trip with Rabbie's. I had considered a day in Glasgow but decided I was enjoying Edinburgh so much I'd rather stay there...and will hopefully return as it is quite spectacular and very easy to explore on foot or using their tram system. Depending on your interests I'd say 3-4 days at minimum.

It depends what you mean by seen Edinburgh properly. Edinburgh's great for visitors in that it has lots of attractions and activities. Do you have four nights or five nights? It's easy to fill as much time as you want in Edinburgh.

For a slightly alternative perspective on visitor's Edinburgh, I like https://www.youtube.com/@Kakibot/videos

It's a young lady with some different takes on the city, from a local's point of view.

I'd say four full days would give you a really good feel for the city and give you time to venture to the edges, e.g. Portobello beach, South Queensferry, or North Berwick (a good bit to the east). I love to climb up Calton Hill for a magnificent view over the city. I also enjoy a rummage in the charity & vintage shops of Stockbridge or Newington.

Can't help on gluten free food, except to say that pretty much any decent restaurant will do a gluten free menu as long as you mention that requirement when making a reservation. Likely to be a bit more hit and miss if you are turning up without a reservation. But most cafes have gluten free cakes these days.

It's only right to remind Edinburgh first timers that The International Festival and Fringe is on the whole of August, and it dominates the city. Great if that's what you're there for, not so great if you're just on vacation.

Gerry, it looks like OP’s trip is planned for September.

hale_mj: I suggest giving Edinburgh at least four or five days. I spent six days there last year and another five this year, and there’s still much more to explore and enjoy! There’s a great deal to see and do in the city, and it’s also a good base for day trips.

For gluten-free dining recommendations, I will refer you to my trip reports. Note, however, that Educated Flea no longer exists in its original state; the owners sold it to their longtime executive chef, and he has reopened it under a new name and with a new menu that is no longer 99% gluten free. The original owners still run their other restaurant, Three Birds, in Morningside.

2023 trip report: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/trip-report-6-days-solo-in-edinburgh-in-late-june-2023-with-day-trips

2024 trip report:

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/trip-report-glasgow-and-edinburgh-with-day-trips-and-lots-of-great-food

There is so much to do and see in Edinburgh and the surrounding areas. It all depends on what you mean by 'see the city properly'. Some people will have 'done' it in 2-3 days. Others could spend say 10 days there and still be finding new things to do and see.

Two places that rarely get mentioned are Gladstone's Land on the Royal MIle. This was the house of a wealthy C17th merchant and an insight into what life was like then.

The other is the Georgian House in the New Town which gives a flavour of elegant way of life in the late C18th/early C19th.

They provide a complete contrast to each other.

There is also the ruined Craigmillar castle with its links to Mary Queen of Scots , which can be reached by bus. THis is a lovely place and doesn't get many visitors.

Do a guided walk of Arthur's Seat to begin to learn its secrets...

I've not visited them but there is also the Malleny Gardens on the SW outskirts of Edinburgh and again reachable by bus.