Trip Report: 6 Days Solo in Edinburgh in Late June 2023, with Day Trips

Friday: Arrival day

My Delta flight from JFK landed at EDI on time, shortly after 10 am. Passport control was quick and efficient. I had checked my one bag, and it appeared on the conveyor belt in baggage claim maybe five minutes after I arrived there. I rolled it out of the terminal and over to the tram stop, where I bought an open return ticket from a machine and boarded the waiting tram.

I got off at St. Andrew Square and wheeled my bag down to Princes Street and then a couple of blocks east to Waterloo Place. I had checked in to my hotel, the Apex Waterloo Place, online and only had to present my credit card for the room charges. Since it was hours before the scheduled check-in time, I expected to just drop my bag at the desk, but the staff told me that my room was almost ready. I relaxed in the lobby bar/café, and about 20 minutes later a manager came over and presented me with the key cards. I was glad to have the chance to unpack and freshen up before heading out.

My room, a Superior Twin, was clean, neat, and comfortable, with a desk/dressing table. The bathroom had a deep soaking tub and a separate shower stall. On one of the beds was a stack of clean towels with a welcome card and Apex’s signature rubber duckie. Housekeeping actually left another duck along with fresh towels every day! I appreciated the towels but really didn’t need more than one duck. :)

The room also had an electric kettle and a mini fridge stocked with still and sparkling water and a few little pods of milk. There was a card saying you could request fresh milk, so I did, and the manager gave me a large carafe of it.

After unpacking, I took a quick shower and changed my clothes, then had a cup of tea while my phone charged. It was good to be able to rest a bit, as I had hardly slept at all on the overnight flight.

Finally, I was ready to head out. Following the wisdom of more seasoned travelers, I had made no plans for this first day other than an early dinner reservation. I decided to just explore the neighborhood, which was the one near Calton Hill. I walked around the bend and saw the Burns Monument, and then came upon New Calton Burial Ground. A woman was walking into it and taking photos, so I decided to follow her and see what was photo-worthy. Besides the 19th-century gravestones and the watchtower (built for spying would-be bodysnatchers), this cemetery built on a hill has some spectacular views.

But what starts out up…must come down! I found myself unsteadily walking down hills and old stone steps with no railings, not an ideal activity when you haven’t slept and just got off a plane. A further complication was that I wasn’t seeing very clearly. At first I blamed it on fatigue, but then the light dawned: My aging eyes had become significantly more farsighted in the two years since my eyeglass prescription was updated, and the distance portion of my progressives was too strong, making objects in the distance appear blurry. Why hadn’t I noticed this before my trip? See comment above about spending four years doing almost nothing but looking at a computer screen!

Exiting the cemetery, I found myself in the streets of the Old Town and was a bit lost. My Giffgaff SIM card was in my phone but wasn’t being recognized, so I wasn’t able to use Google Maps. I bore right and just kept walking (up steep hills and sometimes with traffic passing uncomfortably close). Eventually I came to one of those big “You are here” maps and found that I had actually overshot my starting point and was near York Place. Some other tourists pointed me in the right direction and I found my way back “home.”

Too pooped to walk anymore, I bought a ticket for the Edinburgh City Tour hop-on, hop-off bus whose route began right across the street from my hotel. The weather was warm and sunny, so I sat on the top deck and enjoyed the views while the wind made a wreck of my hair. (Between the wind and sometimes the rain, my trip was one bad-hair day after another.)

Back at the Apex, I freshened up again before heading to my 5:30 dinner reservation at Howies, just half a block away. I ordered a Raspberry Royale cocktail (sparkling wine with Edinburgh Gin’s raspberry liqueur) to celebrate having arrived in Edinburgh and having survived my first sightseeing adventure. Howies has a separate NGCI (no gluten-containing ingredients) menu, which I found most helpful for ordering. This, plus its proximity to my hotel, made it my go-to for dinners out. For this first dinner, I ordered the soup of the day (carrot, burnt apple, and miso) as a starter, followed by a main course of pan-roasted cod with mashed potatoes, broccolini, and spinach in a beurre blanc. Then ice cream—one scoop each of plain vanilla and vanilla studded with bits of tablet.

When I returned to my room after dinner, I looked out the window at the city bus stop across the street and found that I couldn’t read the sign. For lack of a better idea, I took off my progressives and put on the spare pair of glasses I had brought as a backup even though they were my computer glasses and originally prescribed for seeing things just a couple of feet away. Eureka! I could read the sign clearly. I resolved to wear the computer glasses for the remainder of my trip and to schedule an eye exam as soon I got home.

Exhausted from traveling and exploring, I fell asleep around 9 pm, but woke up wide awake at 12:15 am. This was the pattern for the first few nights, though I woke a little later each night.

Saturday: Old Town day

Got up, showered and dressed, and had a cup of tea. Then crossed the street, rounded the corner, and walked across North Bridge to get to the Old Town. It was the warmest and sunniest day of my stay. As I was strolling down High Street, a small parade of fife and drum bands came marching by, carrying banners identifying them as members of the Sons of the Reformation and Daughters of the Reformation. This was a few hours before the Pride Parade, which took over the Royal Mile and adjacent streets in the afternoon. Quite a day for parades in the Old Town!

I had a 10:15 brunch reservation at Loudons New Waverley, on Sibbald Walk. (Tip for those trying to find Loudons when walking down the Royal Mile: Look for the signage of MacKays on the Mile and turn in there.) I enjoyed some Scottish smoked salmon and eggs on gluten-free toast, accompanied by a Virgin Mary and of course more tea.

My next stop was Dovecot Studios, an art, craft, and design center on Infirmary Street, in a building that housed public baths in the Victorian era. I had purchased in advance a ticket for the Kaffe Fassett exhibition, “The Power of Pattern.” Fassett’s fabric designs and knitting patterns have earned him a passionate following among crafters, especially quilters and knitters, but anyone who appreciates the creative use of color and pattern would enjoy his work. After viewing the exhibition, I bought a tea towel, mini posters, and purse mirrors in the gift shop as souvenirs.

I had a few hours before my next scheduled event, so I went back to the hotel to drop off my purchases. Then I walked straight down (or up?) Princes Street, stopping in at Marks and Spencer to browse and to use the facilities. I then proceeded up the street to the Hotter shoe shop. I have been buying Hotter shoes online through their U.S. website for about a decade and was dismayed when that site was recently shut down. Being in a city with a brick-and-mortar Hotter shop was a golden chance for me to replace my very well-worn sneakers and possibly succumb to the lure of their waterproof counterparts. And so I did—I left the store wearing my new sneakers and carrying my new waterproof “lightweight hiking shoes.”

My excuse for being in the New Town on my designated Old Town day, apart from needing new shoes, was that the meeting place for my Local Eyes “History Lovers Old Town Walking Tour” was actually in the New Town. We met up in the late afternoon at the Tour Box at the northwest end of Princes Street Gardens and walked across the gardens into the Old Town and then up, down, and all over. A workout for both mind and body! When we concluded the tour at St. Giles Cathedral, I told our guide that I had signed up for another Local Eyes tour the following day and was happy to hear that he would most likely be leading that tour as well.

Then it was back across North Bridge. By this time I had guessed that the solution to my Giffgaff problem was probably to open the tray, remove the SIM card, and reinsert it. When I got back to my hotel, I asked the front desk staff for a paper clip (they generously invited me to take more, not knowing what it was for), and then did the remove-and-reinsert routine, which solved the problem immediately.

Back to Howies for dinner. The food was again very good, but my choices weren’t the smartest. My starter of smoked mackerel pate with gluten-free oatcakes was so delicious I ate every bit of it and so satisfying that I could have, and probably should have, skipped straight to dessert. But I ordered the slow-braised casserole of the day (beef) and then couldn’t finish it. Lesson learned.

Sunday: New Town day

Had a 10:30 breakfast reservation at Dishoom. This very popular Indian restaurant doesn’t accept reservations for dinner, so breakfast or lunch is the best bet. I walked the couple of blocks over to St. Andrew Square and queued at the end of a teeny line outside, but as soon as a staffer confirmed my reservation, I was directed inside and upstairs to my table. The service was attentive, and the food was very satisfying. I had the gluten-free version of “The Big Bombay,” which set me up well for most of the day. If you can eat gluten, you can have the version with sausages and homemade buns, which would no doubt be even more filling.

After Dishoom, I wandered around Princes Street for a while and then met up at the Tour Box with the group for my second Local Eyes walking tour, the “Undiscovered Edinburgh on Foot Tour.” Again we started in Princes Street Gardens, but then crossed north to the streets of the New Town and later moved on to explore Dean Village, the Water of Leith, and a little bit of Stockbridge before returning to the New Town. It was raining steadily for much of our walk, but it was nevertheless very enjoyable.

The tour ended around 3:30, and I had a 5:15 dinner reservation. That timing worked fine until I got back to my hotel room and heard an odd sound. I was sitting on the bed and thought, “Wow, these bedsprings are really noisy.” Then I stood up and the sound continued. I realized it was the sound of water dripping, and I traced it to the ceiling above one of the window frames. I immediately went down to the front desk to report the leak, and the receptionist promptly reported it to the manager. He apologized profusely and moved me to another (upgraded) room. Having to repack my suitcase and move on short notice wasn’t fun, especially when I was on my way out to dinner, but I appreciated the hotel’s prompt response to the problem.

Miraculously, I managed to make it on time to Educated Flea, on Broughton Street, where the entire menu is approximately 99% gluten-free. My anxieties dissipated immediately as soon as I arrived and was warmly welcomed. At this early hour there was only one other guest, who clearly was also gluten-intolerant. I had a glass of a Spanish cava with my starter of cauliflower-and-sultana bhajis (fritters), and a Gruner Veltliner with my main course of rainbow trout fillet with caper hollandaise, spring greens, bacon, and roasted new potatoes. Dessert was a rhubarb and custard ice cream. Everything was so, so good! I will most definitely make multiple reservations here on future visits to Edinburgh. Guaranteeing a really complete and satisfying dinner on this particular day was especially important because the next day was a full-day trip out of town and I wasn’t sure what my gluten-free options would be.

Monday: West Central Highlands day

I booked Discover Scotland’s Glenfinnan Viaduct, Glencoe, and Loch Shiel tour. It was a 12-hour tour, so I had to check in by 7:45 am. But on the upside, the departure point was right across the street from Howies, half a block from my hotel! I got up at 6 and had time for some tea and instant oatmeal with trail mix before crossing the street and walking to the bus.

Discover Scotland doesn’t get mentioned in forums anywhere near as often as Rabbie’s. I traveled with both of them on this trip and would gladly book with both again. As with Rabbie’s, the tours are limited to groups of no more than 16 people, and they use the same Mercedes-Benz mini coaches. I was the first passenger to check in, so I had my pick of seats. I chose the last one in the single-seat row, which is raised up on a small platform that I thought might provide a slightly better vantage point for taking photos through the window.

The bulk of our day was spent at the two headlined stops, Glencoe and Glenfinnan/Loch Shiel. Our guide provided us with historical background and practical information as we drove to them, and then set us loose to explore on our own. It was pouring rain for much of our time at Glencoe, but I still got lots of good pictures of the stunning landscapes and the model Turf House built as an example of a typical 17th-century home. I got lunch at the visitor center café—a bowl of vegetable soup (billed as having “no allergens”) with a gluten-free seeded roll and a packaged lemon tart (also “no allergens”). So the almond butter sandwich I had packed as a backup stayed in my bag and went home with me.

Happily, the sun came out before we arrived at Glenfinnan. There was lots to see and do there. Our stop was timed so that we could catch the Jacobite steam train (aka the Hogwarts Express) when it passed over the Glenfinnan Viaduct, but before it arrived we had about an hour to do our own thing. I took a brief walk on one of the nature trails (alas, the Dragonfly Trail was closed for construction work), then visited the Glenfinnan Monument and strolled down to the shore of Loch Shiel, which was breathtakingly beautiful with the sun sparkling on its surface. My phone camera’s Panoramic setting got a workout there!

Our day was bookended by short rest stops: at the Trossachs Woolen Mills in Callander in the morning and in Pitlochry in the late afternoon. The first gave us the opportunity to meet a few hairy coos, and the second a chance to get some whisky-infused ice cream (too cold for me). These stops had a slightly more tourist-trappy feel than the rest of the day, but there was zero pressure to buy anything. I’m sure I would have appreciated both locations more if I’d spent more time there and gotten away from the souvenir shops and into the “real” parts of town.

Knowing that we would return to Edinburgh around 8:30 pm, I had intentionally not made any dinner plans. When I got back to the hotel, I ate my almond butter sandwich and had a cup of tea, then put on my pj’s and fell into bed. A long day, but a memorable one.

Tuesday: Last-chance day in Edinburgh

To plan my last full day in the city, I asked myself what I would most regret not having done if I didn’t fit it in. There’s always the hope of a next time, but who knows if or when?

At the top of my Edinburgh bucket list: visiting The Haggis Box. I really wanted to try Scotland’s national dish, and this was the only place I could find that made it with gluten-free oats. Since my plan was to eat it for lunch, I needed to plan a morning activity nearby. The Haggis Box is located in the lobby of the Scottish Storytelling Centre, which is attached to the John Knox House, so visiting the latter was the obvious choice. I bought my ticket in the bookshop and did the self-guided tour with the provided script. A couple of the early stations in the tour were on the house’s exterior, so I was standing in the pouring rain while viewing them. The remainder were, thankfully, indoors. I loved exploring the rooms of the house, parts of which date back to 1470, and I certainly learned a lot about the Scottish Reformation.

When I finished the tour, I passed back through the bookshop and into the lobby where The Haggis Box concession is located. Laura, one of the owners, was dishing out the haggis and helped the staffer taking my order answer my questions. I was excited to meet her after having seen her in Clan Broonford’s YouTube video about this place. I ordered the traditional haggis with neeps and tatties, with an Auchentoshan whisky and mustard cream sauce. When I asked what beverage would pair well with the haggis, Laura suggested I go for the full Scottish experience and drink some Irn-Bru with it. Not sure it’s the most harmonious pairing ever, but I enjoyed it and got to taste another Scottish classic!

On my way out, I bought a few more souvenirs—postcards, Scottish Storytelling Centre tote bags, and a cute children’s book about “a wee lassie who swallowed a midgie.” I dropped them off in my hotel room before going on to my next stop.

My afternoon must-do was a visit to the National Portrait Gallery. I spent a couple of hours there admiring the architecture and design of the place, as well as reading the bios of the people represented in the sculptures and paintings. The modern section was especially fun, filled with portraits of present-day Scottish luminaries like Tilda Swinton and Billy Connolly. A perfect place to pass a rainy afternoon.

I then took a long, brisk walk to the western end of George Street to check out the Scottish Design Exchange in its new home. I didn’t find anything I felt compelled to buy as a souvenir or for myself, but maybe that was because I was in a hurry.

Back on Waterloo Place, I went to Howies for my final dinner there. I continued the day’s theme of Scottish signature dishes by ordering a starter of Cullen skink, a chowder of smoked haddock, leeks, potatoes, and cream. My main course was a roast squash risotto, and for dessert I had the same ice cream duo I’d enjoyed at my first visit to Howies. A comforting meal to end a very wet day.

Wednesday: St. Andrews and Fife day

My second day trip, “St. Andrews and the Fishing Villages of Fife,” was with Rabbie’s. On one of my earlier “city days” I had scoped out the location of the bus station, which is just past St. Andrew Square, up the block from Harvey Nichols. I took the escalator down and found my way to the gates specified in my confirmation email. I checked in and then took a seat while two earlier-departing tours boarded. Ours left on time at 9:45.

Our first stop was a brief one—just about half an hour, if memory serves—in the East Neuk village of Anstruther. If we’d been there longer I might have toured the Scottish Fisheries Museum, but given the time constraint I just wandered down the main street and a couple of side streets, enjoying the local color and taking photos. I also stopped in at a small gift shop, The Oak Tree, and bought a few edible souvenirs such as Irn-Bru flavored candies, Irn-Bru scented soap, a couple of bricks of tablet, and a box of shortbread from a smaller company (not the omnipresent Walker’s).

When we arrived in St. Andrews, our driver-guide gave us an overview of the town’s layout before first dropping off the golf enthusiasts at the far end of town and then backtracking to drop off those who wished to visit the castle ruins at the other end. We had three hours to do whatever we wished. I toured the castle ruins with a couple of women whose husbands were busy exploring the golf course. We used the audio guide but soon abandoned it to just read the information on the plaques, some of which reinforced what I had learned the previous day at John Knox House. I got some great photos of the seaside ruins, but if I had it to do over again, I’d spend less time revisiting the Scottish Reformation and more time exploring the streets, alleys, and closes of the town. I’d love to spend a full day in St. Andrews and will aim to include that in any future trip itinerary. I ate lunch in the cozy Café in the Square, located in the square behind the beautiful Holy Trinity Church. I ordered Coronation Chicken (curried chicken salad) on a gluten-free toasted roll, which came with coleslaw and green salad, and a pot of tea.

The day’s final stop was Falkland. I had had my fill of history for the day, so I skipped the palace tour and just wandered around the village. It was really charming, but alas, few of the shops, tearooms, etc. were open. I spent part of my walk trying to find the public toilets that our guide had pointed out when we arrived; I eventually did and was able to pay the 35p entrance fee with my contactless credit card. That was a relief, since I had no change and nothing smaller than a 10-pound note!

On our ride back to Edinburgh, we passed over the middle bridge of the three Forth Bridges, which gave us a good view of the oldest one, the rusty-orange rail bridge. Returning during the evening rush, we encountered a bit of traffic on the way back to the city, but it wasn’t too bad.

After debarking at the bus station, I went back to the Apex and spent the evening packing for my 10:35 am flight home. I ate some miso soup and trail mix in lieu of dinner and had yet another cup of tea. I set the alarm on my Fitbit for 5:30 so I could be sure to get to the airport by 7:30. (As it turned out, the flight was delayed 30 minutes, so I could have slept a tiny bit longer.) In the morning I had my final breakfast of oatmeal, trail mix, and tea and set off for the St. Andrew Square tram stop with my rolling suitcase.

All in all, this trip was a wonderful introduction to Edinburgh and Scotland, and one of my best vacations ever. It also gave me confidence in my ability to travel solo, an experience I greatly enjoyed. Thank you for reading my book-length account of it! :)

Great trip report, Nancy! It sounds like you had a fabulous time. We love Edinburgh and have been twice but would love to visit again. Edinburgh is such a comfortable city to be in and I agree that the Scots are very friendly and engaging. You did some things that we haven’t so I will bookmark your report for future travels.

Great report!!! I also recently returned from a solo trip to Edinburgh and agree it is a great city for solo travel.

Loved your report. I think many of us had a tough time getting back into the groove after covid. I loved your system. I recently traveled alongside someone with Celiac Disease. It looks like Edinburgh provided much safer options than she ran across. Scotland must truly understand the disease versus Spain.

@Mary: Thanks! I'm glad I was able to give you some ideas for new things to do on your future trips to Edinburgh!

@Carrie: Thanks! Your trip report as a solo traveler was encouraging and inspiring to me as I was planning my travels.

@Wray: It does seem to be well understood and well handled in Scotland. Restaurant staff will start by asking if you have any allergies or dietary restrictions, and if you mention celiac they're not the least bit fazed. They'll just say, "Right, then I'll get you the special menu" or guide you to what you can order from the regular menu. Many places set appropriate expectations by using the term "NGCI" (no gluten-containing ingredients") rather than "gluten free" and leave it up to the diner to assess the risk of cross-contamination.

I realized I hadn't mentioned what I ordered at Educated Flea, so I added those details. On their current menu there was just one item that contained gluten--an artisan bread served with the soup of the day--and it was starred with an asterisk. What a refreshing change it was to be able to order virtually anything on a menu!

Enjoyed your report, Nancy!

@roubrat Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks for your trip report! We are going to Edinburgh in September and have booked the same Rabbies St. Andrews, etc. tour So I was especially interested in that.

@Estimated Prophet: It's a very worthwhile day trip with lots of options depending on your interests. I hope you have better weather for it than we did!

I enjoyed your trip report! Thanks for sharing it!

That was a great report. Brought back many memories of my 2009 Scotland trip. and our time in Edinburgh. I totally loved Scotland, and would really like to go back. Completely exceeded expectations. And I feel like I could move to Edinburgh--really enjoyed the city.

I enjoyed your wonderful detailed report. We will be in Edinburgh later this month for a brief trip (although we have been there before). I’m hoping for good weather to walk up Calton Hill and have added Howie’s and Dishoom to my restaurant list.

I enjoyed your report! I had a solo trip to Edinburgh scheduled for April 2020 (via a fantastic Skymiles deal that I haven't seen since, alas) and have yet to reschedule it. Reading your report makes me want to move Edinburgh to the top of my trip list. thank you for sharing!

@Wishin: My pleasure!

@Pete: Thanks! I know what you mean about feeling you could move there. My seat mate on the flight home told me she moved to Edinburgh (from Manchester) 15 years ago and can't imagine ever wanting to live anywhere else.

@Carole: Wishing you sunny skies for your trip this month! I look forward to hearing about it.

@kayla.p.: Glad I could provide some motivation for you to reschedule your Edinburgh trip! My sister and I had an eagerly awaited trip to Turin scheduled for that same month, April 2020, and we have yet to go. The closest I've gotten is watching the Piedmont episode of Stanley Tucci's "Searching for Italy" series on the flight from New York to Edinburgh.

I so enjoyed your report, Nancy!
Edinburgh is my “second home” as I lived there as a child, did all my student days there, and worked there for a while afterward.
You visited lots of my favourite places.

@S J: Glad you enjoyed it! I envy you for having spent a good chunk of your life in that wonderful city.

Nancy, thanks for your wonderful trip report. Edinburgh is one of the places that I most want to visit.

@Valerie: Go, go, go! :)

Great trip report. I loved the details.

@katiecem: Thanks!

Nancy, I thoroughly enjoyed your trip report. It transported me back to my time in Edinburgh last September. I love it there - the weather is very much like what I’m used to as I live in the Northwest, Seattle area.

@Linda: It seems that the locals there are so accustomed to the weather that they don't bother dressing for it. When I was out walking in my waterproof hooded jacket and waterproof shoes, I passed a woman in a floaty summer dress and thought, "I guess if you live here you just get used to being wet!"

Nancy ..Your report was so interesting and informative! You are a wonderful writer.

Thanks for sending me the link! It will definitely help me in planning our upcoming trip to Edinburgh.

@sallybwolfe: Glad you found my report helpful. Wishing you a wonderful trip!

Thanks for your report. Glad to hear about the Rabbie's St. Andrew's day trip. I just booked the same tour for my trip in September and was a bit worried that i would have to see the golf course. I'm relieved to hear that the time in St. Andrews is free time. I would like to see the town, ruins and the beach if it isn't raining.

@Susan S, touring the golf course is definitely not mandatory! You will see it, at least briefly, but you needn't spend any time there. You're free to explore whatever you like in that lovely town. I am already planning my next trip to Scotland (Delta says 300 days until check-in--woo-hoo!), and seeing more of St. Andrews will be part of my itinerary.

What a nice trip and interesting report! Edinburgh is my favorite city. Thanks for sharing.

NancyG, I just realized I never finished reading this! I started it right after you posted it and must have gotten distracted and forgot to come back. 🤪 Anyway, I love the report! It brought back memories of my trip and how much I miss Scotland. Thank you so much for sharing your experiences!

Carroll, thanks! It's now my favorite, too.

Mardee, I'm glad you came back and read the rest. :) I came back to it myself to post the link to my photos at the top of the report. I just wish Apple didn't insist on displaying them in the reverse of the order in which I took them and posted them!

I miss Scotland too and can't wait to return. I've planned a 9-day trip for next year and am currently considering including Rabbie's 3-day Isle of Arran tour in my itinerary.

Very glad you enjoyed your solo travels. I did my first solo traveling in London and I think the UK is a good way to get used to solo travel without the added headache of an unfamiliar language. And I do find that taking day trips and tours a good way of meeting people while still having your privacy.

I miss Scotland too and can't wait to return. I've planned a 9-day
trip for next year and am currently considering including Rabbie's
3-day Isle of Arran tour in my itinerary.

I’m also pondering a return and thinking about a longer Rabbie’s tour. 😊

I also have my eye on the Lake District tour, which departs from Edinburgh.

https://www.rabbies.com/en/england-tours/from-edinburgh/3-5-day-tours/the-lake-district-3-day-tour

I would love to do multiple short tours, but the logistics seems difficult as you’d have to check in and out of a hotel between each tour.

Heather, yes, it feels like the best of both worlds.

Carrie, I was looking at the Lake District one, too! If I had an extra week, I'd do both.

I also looked at some four-day island tours with Rabbie's and Discover Scotland*, but they all start on Monday and end on Thursday evening. It's theoretically doable, but I'm flying home on Friday and would prefer to spend my last day in the city and have a proper dinner at an early-ish hour. I like to keep my vacations as low-stress as I can manage. 😊

*Especially this one: https://www.discoverscotlandtours.com/tours/isles-of-mull-iona-the-highlands-4-day-tour-from-edinburgh/

Loved reading this Nancy! Very entertaining and informative. Heading to Edinburgh for 6 days in 3 weeks and this was extremely helpful!

spemelton, I’m glad you found it helpful. Have a wonderful time! I look forward to hearing about your trip when you get back.

Thank you for sharing.

Edinburgh is on my “visit soon” list.

Claudia, I hope you love it as much as I did!

Thanks for posting! You’ve given me so many ideas for my first trip to Scotland which we’re planning on for next May.

I came back and looked at your photos and it's fun after recently being there. And re-reading your review too. Your haggis dish was more haggis-y than mine 😄 Funny seeing Irn-Bru in your photo. We kept noticing everyone drinking it and finally tried it - I hated it (but I'm not usually a soda drinker). My husband liked it a little too much. It was a bit like cotton candy in carbonated liquid form.

Is there a next trip on the horizon for you?

Mary, yes, the haggis I had was indeed very haggis-y. 😄 I’m glad I experienced the traditional kind, but I wouldn’t mind trying the vegetarian version next time. I also want to eat at Bertie’s, where I can get gluten-free fish and chips, beer, and dessert!

I’m planning to go back for nine days next May. Again using Edinburgh as my base, taking some day trips (e.g., Glasgow and North Berwick) and possibly fitting in the Rabbie’s 3-day Isle of Arran tour.

Claudette, maybe we’ll be in Scotland at the same time next year! 🙂

I also want to eat at Bertie’s, where I can get gluten-free fish and chips, beer, and dessert!

And less haggis-y haggis spring rolls!