Trip Report: Glasgow and Edinburgh, with day trips and lots of great food

Getting there
We flew out of JFK on Delta’s 10:05 p.m. flight, which arrives in Edinburgh at approximately the same time in the a.m. the following day. My sister and I arrived separately and each had some minor drama going through security. We both had gone to the trouble of getting TSA Precheck before the trip so we could use Delta Digital ID. My sister’s TSA Precheck status did not show up on her boarding pass, due to a disconnect in the spelling of her last name, so she had to go through the regular security line. Meanwhile, I went through the Delta Digital ID line and then still got selected to stand in a booth, arms akimbo, for a second scan. I asked the TSA agent why, and she replied, “You got randomed.” lol

Sis and I eventually met up at the gate. Close to departure time, the gate agents got on the horn and said, “Paging passenger Alan Cumming. Please come to the desk at gate [whatever our gate number was].” We were like, “Is that THE Alan Cumming? The one we saw in ‘Cabaret’ and ‘Threepenny Opera’ many moons ago, and ‘The Good Wife’ and Masterpiece Theatre more recently?’” Indeed it was. He did not come to the gate, but we did spot him in Delta One as we passed through it while boarding, on our way to the hoi polloi section (aka Main Cabin).

The flight itself was blessedly uneventful. We both had booked aisle seats and were fortunate to have pleasant seat mates. My gluten-free meals were good, as airline food goes. Dinner was chicken and quinoa with roasted carrots and green beans; breakfast was kiwi and pineapple, which I supplemented with a GF blueberry muffin I had packed in my tote. My video security blanket from last year’s flight, “Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy,” wasn’t available to calm my takeoff nerves this time, so I made do with “Master Class: Massimo Bottura Teaches Modern Italian Cooking.” We got off the ground very smoothly, I’m happy to say. As usual, I slept little, if at all, on the overnight flight. Sis did a little better and got a couple of hours of sleep.

After landing and going through passport control and baggage claim (where we glimpsed Alan Cumming again), we took the Citylink AIR bus to Glasgow city centre and then an Uber to our hotel.

Where we stayed
In Glasgow we stayed at the Apex City of Glasgow, on Bath Street.

In Edinburgh we stayed at the Apex Waterloo Place, where I stayed last year and liked it. Thus the decision to stay there again and to try the Apex property in Glasgow.

Both hotels were very comfortable, with good and friendly service. I would give the edge to the one in Glasgow, for having full-size bottles of shampoo and conditioner in the shower, rather than little tubes. We also really enjoyed the lobby-level cafe/bar, where you can have breakfast in the morning, a free cup of tea or coffee in the afternoon, or a cocktail in the evening. The space includes counter seating with outlets and chargers, perfect if you need to connect a laptop and do some work. The Apex Waterloo also has a cafe/bar, and it’s lovely, but I really enjoy the vibe of the one in Glasgow.

Glasgow

Day 1 (arrival day)
What we did
City Sightseeing hop-on, hop-off bus tour. Got a very good overview of the main sights. The West End is so lovely, and we knew we’d be coming back to it the following day.

Where we ate
Dinner at Fratelli Sarti on Wellington Street: Salad of arugula, Parmigiano shavings, and cherry tomatoes

Pizza Margherita (the best gluten-free pizza I’ve ever had)

Day 2
What we did
Spent most of the day exploring the Kelvingrove Museum.

Where we ate
Breakfast at the hotel:
Three-egg omelette with mushroom, tomato, and cheese filling; fresh pineapple and watermelon

Dinner at Ardnamurchan:
Cullen skink; chicken breast with Scottish heather honey, truffle and wholegrain mustard cream, buttered mash, and roasted sand carrots

Day 3
What we did
Took Culzean Castle & Burns Country Tour with Rabbie’s:
Whitelee Wind Farm
Culzean Castle and Country Park
Dunure Castle
Robert Burns birthplace and museum
The Brig O’Doon

We enjoyed the entire day, but Culzean Castle was the undisputed highlight. Stunning interior design and a coastal location that could not be beat.

Where we ate
Lunch at Home Farm cafe, Culzean Castle:
Smoked salmon with dill cream on gluten-free bread

Dinner at Sarti on Bath Street:
Penne with onions, house-made sausage, white wine and cream sauce; ice cream

Day 4
What we did
Toured the Burrell Collection, a very eclectic art museum. After enjoying the art, we took the Pollok Country Park shuttle bus in hopes of seeing some of the park’s resident Highland cows. Alas, they were not out in the field. The weather was rather hot and the sun was strong, so perhaps they were sheltering in a barn.

Where we ate
Breakfast at Fratelli Sarti on Wellington Street:
Toasted gf flaxseed bread with tomato and sautéed mushrooms; cappuccino

Dinner at Santa Lucia in Merchant City:
Pan-fried fillet of sea bass with asparagus tips and pink peppercorns, in a butter, lemon, and sage sauce; coconut and vanilla gelato

Edinburgh

Day 1
What we did
Took the Citylink bus from Glasgow to Edinburgh. Checked into our hotel. Spent hours browsing at Topping & Company Booksellers.

Where we ate
Lunch at Howies:
Big bowl of Cullen skink and small mixed salad

Dinner at Educated Flea:
Smoked mackerel fillet with grapefruit, celery, dill & balsamic mayo, crispy kale; chicken supreme stuffed with Parma ham, with asparagus risotto, sun-blushed tomatoes, and Parmesan

Day 2
What we did
Spent much of the day at the National Gallery. I immersed myself in the Scottish art while Sis explored the broader European collection. She said it was worth the cost of the entire trip!

Afterward, Sis took a pre-dinner break at the hotel while I achieved one of my trip goals: climbing Calton Hill. Not a big deal for anyone remotely athletic, but a win for (wobbly, out-of-shape) me!

Where we ate
Breakfast at Society Bar and Kitchen:
Granola bowl: Greek yogurt, green apple slices, blueberries, strawberry compote, house-made nut crumble, pumpkin spice & maple syrup

Coffee break at the National Gallery: an excellent caffe latte

Dinner at Howies:
Pan-roasted cod with lobster bisque, roasted potatoes, and greens

Howies fudge brownie sundae: Mackie’s vanilla ice cream, brownie pieces, toasted pecans, topped with warm fudge sauce and whipped cream

Day 3
What we did
Visited St. Giles Cathedral, which I only saw from the outside on my previous trip.
Briefly explored Old Calton Cemetery and saw the Abraham Lincoln statue and the monument to Scottish-American soldiers who fought in the Civil War.
Made the most of our last sunny and warm day by taking the Edinburgh Bus Tours Regal route, which took us through Stockbridge, past the Royal Botanic Gardens, and through Newhaven Harbour and Leith.

Where we ate
Breakfast at Dishoom:
The Big Bombay: Akuri (spiced scrambled eggs), streaky bacon, masala beans, grilled field mushrooms, grilled tomato

Dinner at Côte:
Twice-baked cheese soufflé, topped with Camembert, and served with shallots, parsley, chervil and a herb cream sauce

Fresh seared scallops on a bed of petit pois, confit shallots & bacon lardons, with apple slices and micro salad

Salted caramel ice cream

Day 4
What we did
Took West Highland Lochs, Glens, and Castles tour with Discover Scotland:
Doune Castle
Loch Lubnaig
Kilchurn Castle
Inveraray and Loch Awe
Rest and Be Thankful Pass
Luss

Great itinerary with lots of photo opportunities. Neither of us fully explored Doune Castle, because it required the climbing of old stone stairs, but we enjoyed the stop there nonetheless. At Kilchurn Castle I tramped through a field full of sheep to get a closer view of the castle. That was fun, and I managed to sidestep all the sheep poop! Loved the village of Inveraray and would gladly return and spend more time there. Luss also seemed lovely, but it was pouring rain during our brief time there. We walked around town for a bit and then took shelter in the (exceptionally nice, totally un-tacky) gift shop, where we bought a couple of souvenirs.

Where we ate
Lunch at Brambles Cafe, Inverary:
Beetroot salad with warmed goat cheese

Dinner at Howies:
Pan-roasted hake with roasted potatoes
Vanilla ice cream and blood orange sorbet

Day 5
What we did
Spent this dreich day indoors at the National Museum of Scotland. Met Dolly the sheep and the Lewis chess pieces, and toured the gallery of fashion history. Sis checked out the Egyptian collection while I admired silver and ceramics. We only scratched the surface and will have much more to see on a return visit.

Where we ate
Breakfast at Society Bar & Kitchen:
Grilled halloumi salad with red pepper coulis, corn, cucumbers, and shaved carrots

Dinner at Howies:
Beef, celeriac, and potato stew
Dark chocolate mousse with berries and fresh mint

Going home
We took a (purple!) cab from our hotel to the airport. The driver was quite personable and we had a good time chatting with him about our trip and his own travels to our hometown of New York.

The flight back was, again, blessedly uneventful. We both lucked out and had an empty seat next to us. My gluten-free meal was again pretty good; I think it was similar to the one I was served on the same flight last year: Seared chicken breast with pepper sauce, potato gratin, and leaf spinach; cucumbers and pepper strips with hummus and gf oatcakes; kiwi, strawberries, and blackberries; gf salted caramel oat bar.

An Uber ride later, I was glad to be back home and very thankful for another absolutely marvelous trip to Scotland. Time to start planning the next one!

Nancy, what a wonderful trip report! And how exciting that you got to see Alan Cummings! I absolutely love him! I saw him in Cabaret and he was wonderful.

You also hit all my favorite spots in Glasgow and Edinburgh! The Kelvingrove in Glasgow, the National Museum in Edinburgh , Dishoom, and so many other wonderful places! I'm sorry your trip to Arran didn't work out but it sounds like you covered it quite well. :-) I'm also happy to see that you enjoy Cullen Skink soup as much as I do. If you ever get up to Cullen, stop at Lily's Cafe, which makes wonderful Cullen Skink soup. I heard about her place from Mike (Auchterless), who sadly has not frequented this forum in a while.

I loved the photos, too; especially the ones of the Lewis chess pieces (one of my favorite exhibits). Anyway, I'm so glad you had a wonderful trip, and thanks so much for sharing! It brought back many memories for me!

So glad you were able to return to Scotland, Nancy. Thanks for sharing. And you made it to Topping & Company :-)

Loved your report! It looks like what I would enjoy: Castles, History, Art and Food. Plus, Comfortable Accommodations.

Very nice report!
Thanks!

I loved reading this! Scotland is on my wish list, and I imagine us spending time in both cities as well. Glasgow seems so unique from Edinburgh and worth its own dedicated days to get to know it.

For Edinburgh: I'd already bookmarked Howie's from previous recommendations and trip reports, and so I absolutely delighted in your multiple return meals there!

Mardee, I’m happy to hear that my report brought back memories of your own trip to Scotland. Your trip report gave me inspiration last year and this year as well.

Yes, I am a fellow member of the Cullen Skink Appreciation Society! lol

After tasting this divine delicacy last year, I bookmarked a domestic source of finnan haddie, thinking that I would order some and enjoy homemade Cullen skink all winter long. But I never got around to it, so I guess I have next winter’s culinary goal cut out for me.

If my Scotland travels ever take me up to Cullen, I will make a point of stopping at Lily’s Cafe!

Mary, I made good on my vow to visit Topping & Company on my return trip to Edinburgh. What an enchanting rabbit hole! I bought one of their tote bags for my mom as a souvenir. I should have bought another for myself…but there’s my excuse to go back (as if I needed one!).

Kathleen, it appears you share my idea of a perfect trip! With my art-loving sister accompanying me, I knew we’d be spending a lot of time in museums, which suits me just fine. Last year I visited only one museum, the National Portrait Gallery, which I loved. So I was happy that I got to explore the others this time.

S J, I’m glad you enjoyed it!

Hannah, the two cities do indeed have distinct identities, and both are very much worth exploring. There is some good-natured rivalry between their inhabitants, but also obvious affection and respect. We had Glasgow folks tell us that the people in their city are friendlier than those in Edinburgh…and had some folks in Edinburgh agree. Also had Glaswegians acknowledge, with what seemed like a degree of awe, that Edinburgh is a remarkably beautiful city.

I think I can say with confidence that Howies will not disappoint you. At this point it feels like my second home. The food is reliably excellent, and the place is so well managed. Definitely book ahead, because it is deservedly popular and can get very busy, especially at peak hours. It’s also great value for money, to use the British expression, especially if you don’t mind dining a bit earlier—£23.95 for two courses, Sunday through Thursday, if the order is placed before 6:30 pm. (Early by European standards, but not all that early for Americans of [cough] a certain age, like moi.)

Glasgow vs Edinburgh is a weird one. Definitely quite different. For all Edinburgh has the International Festival and Fringe every August, which is great, if slightly a victim of its own success, I've always perceived it as definitely coming in second place culturally to Glasgow. I have inherent bias, coming as I do from the west, but to me Glasgow has always been much more vibrant than Edinburgh. I know from my interest in music and art, Glasgow's always had a lot more going on.

If you want to break it down by the class system, to my mind Edinburgh's development has been driven by the middle class, whereas Glasgow has been driven for the most part by the working class.

Gerry, thanks for sharing your perspective as a local. I look forward to returning to Glasgow and experiencing more of its culture (and cuisine) as soon as possible.

To be fair to Edinburgh, it is a lot prettier to look at in general, but there's plenty of great architecture to enjoy in Glasgow too. There is a great food scene in Glasgow, particularly Indian. There's plenty of interesting places with just a few covers out in the west end and southside. The Finnieston area of Glasgow is really foody now, much more than it was when I was around there regularly.

I think the biggest bonus Edinburgh has is how well set up it is for the visitor. It's easy to pass a week in Edinburgh alone, without venturing elsewhere in Scotland.

Forgive me if it sounds pretentious, but when I travel I like to use cities like cities, rather than being very big on sightseeing. Glasgow is where I learned to "use" a city in my early teens. It's an approach that I've taken in places I've kept going back to, like Barcelona and Amsterdam, and in my 10 day visit to NYC [and in London]. Glasgow's better if you like to just use it like a proper city.

I like both cities but think Glasgow has more subtle charm, which in a way makes it more interesting because you can engage more with the place to find what you like.

When I first visited Scotland on a group tour in 2003, our guide offered the analogy that, if Scotland were a house party, Edinburgh would be the drawing room, but Glasgow would be the kitchen.

I just got back from Scotland and I really enjoyed reading your trip report. Didn’t make it to Glasgow or Calton Hill. It was nonstop pouring 2 of the 3 days we were in Edinburgh!

I really enjoyed your trip report. We were in Edinburgh in September 2023. Now I really regret not eating at Howie's at least once.

We visited Doune Castle on a Rabbie's tour. We made it up the first flight of stairs, and decided to abort the mission! Nice gift shop though.

Sarti is great. It's been around for years. It was a favourite when my dad used to come meet me for lunch when I worked in Glasgow. It's a shame another Glasgow institution, Rogano, still seems to be in a state of limbo. - https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/cxrrv5yy34po

A postscript to say that my mom and my brother just received their postcards from Scotland in the past couple of days. lol

I should have gone to the post office to buy the stamps (I had even done my research and found a post office a block away from our hotel in Glasgow). But noooo, I bought the "tourist stamps" in the gift shop of the Kelvingrove Museum, and then didn't get around to mailing the cards until I got to Edinburgh, and the cards apparently came here on a very slow boat. Next time I will walk that extra block! :)

We visited Doune Castle on a Rabbie's tour. We made it up the first
flight of stairs, and decided to abort the mission! Nice gift shop
though.

Estimated Prophet, I know what you mean! I was going to climb that first flight of stairs but then saw the sign saying something like "One-way traffic--if you go up, you cannot go down." I envisioned getting to the top of that flight and then seeing another flight, and not being able to retreat by going back down. So we contented ourselves with touring the outside of the castle. My sister parked herself on a bench and had a nice chat with a woman from Toronto who was born in Glasgow.