How difficult is it to drive along the Amalfi coast?

Not difficult nor dangerous for most people, but it can be congested, especially on weekends and in summer practically every day. Parking is scarce and expensive in the few small lots available. Street parking is virtually non existent and often reserved to residents or outright prohibited, although you are in the Naples area and locals are known for not following the law, so you will see lots of cars in no parking zones.

It may take much longer to drive and park at Pompeii from the AC than, say, the Google Maps route planner says. There is only one, two-lane road through Positano, and busses often get caught on sharp turns and have to take another shot at them. The traffic is so heavy that "speed" is not often a problem. So the horsepower of your home auto is not really a factor in "difficult" driving there. There are not many guardrails on the sheer drops from the roadside, however.

You may wish to make sure your housing on the AC comes with a parking space. When you go for a drive, there are precious few street parking spaces anyplace you might want to go.

(We did not rent a car. We hired a car and driver for an 8-hour visit to the AC from our five nights in Sorrento.)

I agree with Roberto regarding the difficulty of driving the Amalfi coast road. A few years ago I picked up my rental near the train station in Naples and then drove to Pompeii where there are numerous parking lots. From there, I drove to my hotel in Amalfi. The Hotel Anna Lara is small, family owned and has fantastic views of the sea and the mountains. They have parking available for €30 per day - which is about the norm for the area. Easy bus and ferry connections if you don’t want to drive for day trips.

From here you can head south to Salerno and then east to the Shrine. Abruzzo is a stunning natural area. I visited last year for the first time mainly to look at real estate and was awed by the unspoiled beauty of the region. On the way to Pescara, drive up to visit the Belvedere Marconi in San Vito Chietino. The views of the sea, the mountains and the beaches is awesome! By all means plan a hike in the Maiella National Park. On the way to Rome, you might want to stop in L’Aquila and go hiking in the Grand Sasso. If you have the time, a stop in Tivoli to see the gardens and fountains is a great break along the way.

Have you driven to Hana? Not as curvy, but more traffic and congestion, and less parking.

Not “difficult”, as when I drove it in July, I rarely got over 30mph. Quite often moving at “parade” speed.

You can actually use Google Maps Street View to see what the road looks like. The road is particularly narrow inside the towns.

I suggest that you also become familiar with the International Road Sign system, since the US has adopted only some of those signs. A full list is here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Road_signs_in_Italy

Most are self explanatory intuitive symbols, but some not much and are different to what used in the US. In particular note the following:
- Do not stop at any time
- No Parking (hours of operation is 8am to 8pm inside built up areas, or 24/7 outside towns, unless otherwise signaled)
- No motor vehicles permitted (this sign is used for Limited traffic zones or ZTL, pedestrian areas, etc. exceptions may be listed in a separate sign below it)

International Driving Permit is mandatory in Italy for those having a license from outside the EU or the European Economic Zone. The rental agency may not need to see it, but if pulled over by police it will be required and the fine is 408€ minimum fine for not having one (get one at AAA for $20+two photos).

When driving on divided freeways, the left (fast) lane is for passing only. No cruising allowed. Cars can be passed only from the left.

I'm just chiming in about the AC drive; it's not difficult and you probably cannot go fast. I'm a very unskilled driver and I found it to be a lot of fun to drive along this route. I felt like I was behind the wheel of a ride at an amusement park, in the best sense!! And the traffic means you really can't speed, or could not the times I drove in that area.

If you go to the Shrine, and if you have an extra day or three, I would highly recommend a visit to Vieste. It's one of the prettiest coastal towns I've been to in italy--all gleaming white marble. Pretty beaches and some great restaurants.

I did not visit Vasto but we stayed about four nights in Termoli, next door, in Molise. Also really pretty small town, dominated by a looming castle, and with a nice beach below.

Thanks for everyone's advice! The only reason to rent the car in Naples is I figured since we will be flying into that airport it will be the best time to pick up the car. I can see if hotel we decide to stay at has a driver that can take us to Pompeii so we are not dealing with the congested roads, or even one of the 5-6 hour tours on Viator that include Pompeii and then a lunch and day trip around the area. OR we can pick up car and go straight to Pompeii from the airport since it is closer from there as long as i can book a tour that starts at a time that I think we can make, (flight late or any other issues might ruin this idea). However, then our luggage will be in the rental car and I do not like that idea....
Thank you for the links on driving rules in Italy. We never did get the international license last year but I see the need for it now!
I am looking forward to Abruzzo as 3 out of 4 grandparents are from there - born there, then moved to the states as teenagers. Not sure if there's anything worth seeing in Giulianova where one of my grandfather's is from (actually it's a smaller town Corropoli not far from there). would love 3-5 days exploring a few seaside towns and then mountain towns with hiking and relaxing.
What I'm not too keen on is returning the rental car in Rome. That will be a royal pain. Who wants to be driving anywhere near Rome? I hate to return car to the airport and then pay for a driver to take us to hotel for those last two nights. I am hoping to find a car rental return that is somewhere closer to city but not in the city limit but not at the airport either.
Any advice on this would be great as well. thank so much. appreciate everyone's advice!

When I took a cab ride along the Amalfi coast 55 years ago, it was terrifying ! Driver thought he was a race car drver ! Went a week ago in a bus and there was no drama. So much traffic and lots of big buses that speeds are not high.

Donnai: When we took our trip to Le Marche and Abruzzo, a few years ago, we also did not want to return the car in Rome. We ended up returning it at FCO and taking a taxi into the city. But if you are not going to stay in Rome, after Abruzzo, you could also think about returning the car at FCO and spending a night or two in the really nice town of Fiumicino, next to the airport.

Another option might be to return the car in L'Aquila and go from there to Rome by bus; it's about an hour and a half.

Hi! I went to the Amalfi Coast last summer. My Italian friend actually highly recommended not renting a car there — traffic can be intense, the roads are narrow and winding, and parking is both scarce and expensive. She suggested renting a scooter, but since I don’t drive one, we explored the Amalfi Coast by ferry instead. It might be a bit more expensive than the bus, but it’s faster, more relaxing, and honestly, the views of the villages from the water are absolutely breathtaking. I really recommend doing at least part of the Amalfi Coast by ferry if you can. This is a helpful article comparing the 2 options: https://www.ferryhopper.com/en/blog/featured/why-get-around-amalfi-coast-ferry

I don’t have personal experience with the other parts of your trip, but it sounds like an amazing itinerary! Safe travels!

We have rented a car a driven this area three times in the past. However, the past few times that we have gone we have elected not to rent one because the traffic has become so bad on the AC. October used to be shoulder season, but not so anymore. It is still just as crowded as July. We were there last in October and routes that usually take 15-20 minutes were taking an hour and a half because of the number of cars on the road. Locals were irritated and this kind of tardiness was excessive even by Italian standards! There are so many transport services. You can get a private driver to pick you up at the Naples airport and deliver you to your hotel for €140. Taxis are expensive, but prolific along the AC. I think that you may find that the car is more of a burden than a convenience in this part of the world.

So...I have an Italian driver's license and I drive on Italian roads every day. I am a confident driver. But...I spent one week in a villa on the peninsula between the Gulf of Naples and the Amalfi Coast. I had to drive absolutely everywhere we wanted to go. I was so happy to leave, and I will never go back there with a car. (Or probably at all, but that's a story for another day.) Do yourself a favour and find a different transport solution. Why impose that much stress on yourself for a vacation?

As far as must-see towns in Abruzzo, check this thread where I responded at length to that very question: Abruzzo must-sees. I am much fonder of the Adriatic side of the boot than the Tyrrhenian side!

Is it “dangerous” driving along Amalfi coast due to narrow, packed, cliff side roads and perhaps crazy drivers?

Hi donnai and welcome to the best Forum around. Settle in, pull up a chair. Coffee?

My experiences driving the Amalfi Coast have all been about now in the year or a month earlier.

I wouldn't say the cliff side roads are all that dangerous, although some will depend on your prior experience. There are a couple of bends which are quite tight so the road has been made a >little< wider for the bend. But mostly you need to keep your eyes on the road and don't get too close to either the cliff or the edge.

My biggest problems are that I drive a medium (5 seat Honda Civic) car and that was a bit large a fair bit of the time. I found that pulling the side mirrors in was a good idea more than once. Sometimes there is isn't enough room even doing that for two larger vehicles to pass so everything stopped while somebody backed up.

So you can gather that speed isn't the issue, at least not fast speed - you don't get up that much speed. Up in the hills yes, if you are local, but not on the coast road.

Crazy drivers don't get the chance on the coast road mostly.

Plan any parking well in advance, expect a tiny space often at a jaunty angle, if any are available, and expect to pay a lot for any parking.

It is a beautiful place, enjoy.

If a driver or a bus driver is driving all the passengers get to look about, not like when the driver has to keep their eyes firmly off the scenery.

Hi and thank you to all who have replied with their thoughts - Nelly, Stephen, April, Nigel, elarakael, ekscrunchy and all those earlier in the post! I greatly appreciate it!
I like the idea of taking a ferry to explore around and NO car rental until later when we leave to drive to the Adriatic.
SO therefore I was wondering if anyone has ever stayed in the island of Ischia? This would avoid the long drive along the AC to Positano or wherever, plus then just need a car pickup at the airport which most hotels offer. One hotel in particular had a free ferry from the port. it is Le Querce Resort. VERY cheap compared to anything I've looked at inland on the "gold" coast. maybe if we do that then we take ferry rides or even a private 4 hour boat ride along the coast and avoid the raods completely because lets face it the views are best from the water anyway. (I was there years ago, but my husband hasn't been).
Don't know when Pompeii would happen but - I'm anxious to leave that area before I even get there! Ha I love the road less traveled... I am looking forward to the Padre Pio shrine (he's my guy) and then the mountains of Abruzzo..
ok, thanks again!

Hey there! I've done the Amalfi coast drive a few times and it can definitely be intimidating but not what I'd call "dangerous" if you're a confident driver. The roads are narrow and winding with lots of blind corners, and yes Italian drivers can be... enthusiastic

A few tips if you decide to drive it:
- Get the smallest car you're comfortable with
- Take your time and pull over when you can to let locals pass
- Consider driving early morning or evening to avoid the worst traffic
- Pompeii is amazing but gets HOT, bring water!

For the Abruzzo part of your trip - I actually think that's a brilliant choice! So underrated compared to the touristy areas. Definitely visit Rocca Calascio (this incredible medieval fortress on a mountaintop), L'Aquila, and the Gran Sasso National Park for hiking.

Id recommend checking out Tripiamo they've put together some driving guides for Italy that might help with the specific rules/signs you'll encounter. Lots of travelers get confused by ZTLs (limited traffic zones) which can result in hefty fines.

Your plan sounds great overall - gives you a nice mix of coast, countryside and Rome at the end. Love that you're visiting your grandfather's hometown too!

Donnai you mentioned your fondness for Padre Pio. If you ever get to Philadelphia it is worth a trip to his shrine in Barto PA. It is called his National Shrine. Very interesting story about him and the miracle associated with this site. We live about a half hour from there and have visited several times. You would enjoy it. We stayed in Positano several years ago and my son was there in September. As mentioned we agreed the view from the water is fantastic. Enjoy your trip.

Hi Tim,

you mentioned you hired a car and driver for an 8-hour visit to the AC. Can you share his details? I'm looking for a recommendation for a day tour of the Amalfi coast from Sorrento, with drop off at Naples Central train station.

There were recommendations for a guy names Francesco, but he is not available for the dates Im looking for.

If anyone else has any recommendation, I will appreciate if you can share the details.

Thanks,
Veg.

...SO therefore I was wondering if anyone has ever stayed in the
island of Ischia? This would avoid the long drive along the AC to
Positano or wherever, plus then just need a car pickup at the airport
which most hotels offer. One hotel in particular had a free ferry from
the port. it is Le Querce Resort. VERY cheap compared to anything I've
looked at inland on the "gold" coast. maybe if we do that then we take
ferry rides or even a private 4 hour boat ride along the coast and
avoid the raods completely

Question? Maybe you know this but the 'free ferry' you mentioned above doesn't appear to run from Naples to Ischia: it runs between two different ports in Naples: Molo Beverello and Porta di Massa. As well, I personally wouldn't base in Ischia if the goal is to sightsee Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast? Ferries from Ischia to the handful of other coastal locations they serve are few and far between.

https://www.hotellequerce.it/en/hotel-in-ischia

https://www.ischiainsider.com/en/ferry-schedule. (use the dropdown for destinations/schedules/prices)

Apologies if I've read your post incorrectly; just making sure you know what you're getting to. :O)

For vegtrip

We used https://www.topexcursionsorrento.com/. Giovanni is excellent and we used him for 3 different days including 1 all day tour of the coast.

veg, I recommend that people ask their hotel to describe their local land-travel partner, as we did in Sorrento. It was a big third-party company, that rotates drivers' work; So we were not allowed to ask for the same driver a second time. But we did get to charge both trips (even our departure to the Naples train station) to our hotel bill.

Note that the driver may speak English as a second language, and is not a certified "guide".

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/italy/amalfi-coast-day-trip

You can get a private driver to pick you up at the Naples airport and
deliver you to your hotel for €140. Taxis are expensive, but prolific
along the AC. I think that you may find that the car is more of a
burden than a convenience in this part of the world.

And while I haven't priced rental cars in the area, I'm wondering if it would be about the same price to hire a driver as to rent a car and pay for parking (and gas, as well.) I'd have to research it, but it seems to me it might not cost any more to hire a driver AND it would be so much easier.

We hired a driver a few times while we were there and it was well worth the cost considering that we could relax and let them do the driving and navigating. Also, they would stop somewhere we wanted to see - or have lunch - and wait for us so we didn't have any worries about parking. We just texted the driver when we were ready to go and he picked us up and we went on our way. We felt like VIPs and had a stress-free experience.

Hi All. Thx for all the advice and recommendations. Much appreciated.
We have decided to do this trip next year instead! We are staying in the states because I will have grandmom duty this summer and fall and want to be there for my daughter.
Gail I actually live in Phila suburbs and coincidentally I am going to the Padre Pio center in Barto next Friday! So at least I’ll have that happening. I live in ambler my church is doing a bus trip to the shrine. It should be a nice day trip.
Thanks to all on the advice on renting a car vs. a driver. I just didn’t know how to find your own driver since I never use travel agents. Usually whatever hotel we’re staying will offer the car pick up at airport so that’s an easy thing.
Thx

I just didn’t know how to find your own driver since I never use
travel agents.

Private transfers are very easy to find in Italy. For example, one I've used is Rainbow Limos which I can vouch for, but there are many others.

We recommend Aldo Limos. They were very professional and dependable, and Christine, in the office, is a Brit, so no language issues with email communication. Have a great trip.

Donnai, enjoy the shrine in Barto. It is amazing that it sits on vast rolling land out in the country almost all by itself. If the bus takes you on the turnpike and gets off st the Downingtown exit wave at us we are only about a mile from there small world!!