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Abruzzo --- two weeks in October

As usual, the problem is not finding things to see and do, but choosing among the too-many options.

Our interests (his, mine, & ours) are local and hyper-local food and wine, farmers’ markets, sagre, medieval church art and architecture, wildflowers, seeing the countryside, walking around in towns, and short nature hikes.

We’ll have a car and we often purposely take the smallest and twistiest roads on the map. We have gone beyond “slow travel” and are now well into “lazy travel.” Long lunches and not doing much in the afternoons. We like to stay a while in one place and do day trips.

Seems like Sulmona should be one home base, Atri another, but in addition we are now (after Sicily) OK with staying just a night or two in a few places (what we call “The Jean Way”). Maybe Teramo, Lanciano, and Bominaco?

We do like castles, Roman ruins, museums, cheese factories, wineries, but (as we decided during our latest Sicily trip) these are all things we have seen a lot of already and can skip when necessary. Similarly, at this point in our visits to Italy, we have visited an awful lot of beautiful little towns and we now need for a town to have some additional reason to see it, such as a restaurant or bakery or church or museum we want to go to.

Not interested in shopping, fancy restaurants, or luxury accommodations. Don’t need beaches or looking at much coastal scenery, but we do like to see wooden fishing boats and guys selling the day’s catch. My husband speaks Italian quite well and has enjoyed activities like helping with a grape harvest, seeing olive oil being pressed, cooking and eating meals with a cesarina and her family, and going on a truffle hunt. I’m the museums/churches/”happy just looking at stuff” one. I should add that, so soon after our Sicily trip, we've seen all the Baroque we want to see for a while....

In the area, we’d like to do something related to the Transumanza (what?), see the Trabocchi Coast and eat a meal in a fishing hut, see L’Aquila’s fountain of the 99 spouts, and visit Agnone’s 1000-year-old bell foundry (near by in Molise).

We'll be driving to Abruzzo after 10 days in Puglia.

Here are some places that look interesting to us (mostly gathered from Nelly’s many helpful posts) — are any similar enough that we could cut a few to make our two weeks work out?

Abbazia di San Clemente a Casauria — nice Romanesque church

Campo Imperatore — alpine meadow

Caramanico Terme — gorge walk

Chieti — National Archeological Museum of Abruzzo

Citta Sant’Angelo ?

Civitella del Tronto ?

Guardiagrele ?

L'Aquila — National Museum of Abruzzo

Loreto Aprutino — castle, Italy’s narrowest lane, some of Italy’s best wine & olive oil

Santa Maria ad Cryptas in Fossa

Santo Stefano di Sessanio ?

Scanno ?

Thanks for any advice — we are excited to explore a new region!

Nancy

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435 posts

We spent two weeks in Abruzzo in October a few years ago.

It was among the best of our many Italian vacations.

We came from Le Marche--with a rental car, staying a few nights each in Senegallia and in Ascoli Piceno; we loved both towns. We then drove to the Riviera Cornero (Numana) and on to Sulmona and spent about four nights there, taking car trips to Scanno, Pacento, and even to Civietlla Casanova (food is a min interest so we wanted to have lunch at LA BANDIERA). Sulmona is large enough to just spend a day ro two wandering, and they have that big market in the piazza..

We also visited an olive oil factory and bought a lot of oil...just found it somewhere online; it was in back of the owner's house and we were treated like visiting royalty. Drove to a small country town(I can get the name if you want) to a bustling restaurant where I think we ere the only outsiders......all this from Sulmona.

Did not get to Sextantio and from what I've read, perhaps not worth the trip as it's mainly the Albergo diffuso and not much life there......but I did not go so can't really give opinions other than from what I read.

I can give you some more details but I urge you to discover this region overlooked by many foreign travelers; we did meet. few Canadians, as there was an emigration in the 1950s, I believe, from the region to Canada....

I'm sorry we did not get to L'Aquila.
Scenery is spectatular when you drive through the mountains, and the people are beyond welcoming.
You really do need a car in this region, if you can manage it.

Driving was very easy and upon leaving Sulmona, we drove for a fabulous lunch at ANGOLO D'ABRUZZO in Carsoli; even if food is not your thing, you might relish the experience, especially if you can go for weekend lunch.
From there, easy drive to FCO where we dropped our car off and went into Rome for a week.

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Thank you for the links, Roberto — I found that the Italian version of the Abruzzo tourism website had more on it than the English version, but I have Google Translate and my husband to translate for me! We always check the Borghi Piu Belli website (and its Youtube channel), even though it adds more towns to our list.

Ekscrunchy — all of your details and recommendations are very much appreciated! Food IS one of our things, although for us the more casual a place is, the better. Like, bonus points for paper tablecloths, food without decorative squirts on it, the cook’s kids doing homework at the next table, and not being asked to taste the wine — I guess that growing up with parents who preferred fancier places made us semi-allergic to them, even though the food is probably better. You have confirmed our choice of Sulmona as a place to spend several nights, and I just checked to see if it has a hardware store (one sign that a town is not too small or under-populated and not too dependent on tourism) and it has at least TWO. Plus the farmers market. Now we just need to choose a few more places to stay, maybe an agriturismo or B&B so that my husband can chat with people.

Ron, I’ve got the Bradt book on hold at the library and will definitely be contacting Nelly if she doesn’t see my post here. I’m hoping it’s the kind of guide book (like Cadogan and, yes, Rick Steves) that doesn’t make everywhere sound equally wonderful, but offers critiques and opinions.

Nancy

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”OK with staying just a night or two in a few places (what we call “The Jean Way”). Maybe Teramo, Lanciano, and Bominaco?”

Nancy your comment made me literally laugh out loud! You had me picturing your leisurely exploring, staying for extended time, and then shocked me with this sentence! I’m glad the short stops were a positive experience during your last trip. ; )

I had planned to be in Sulmona for three nights but had to return home quickly. It’s a stunning area! This is what I wrote in my trip report, and I did like the B&B very much. It has a nice rooftop view and a wonderful homemade breakfast that they let you choose the night before. Check on their parking, though. The lanes are narrow in that section.

”The train ride to Abruzzo was spectacular! Oh, the gorgeous mountain scenes! I arrived at the Sulmona train station and took a taxi to my B&B. I had picked B&B Il Marchese del Grillo as soon as I saw the views from the rooftop terrace! Picture the prettiest old style church steeple with flowers on this terrace and stunning mountains in every direction! I took several photos but mainly just stood there and took in the majestic setting!”

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I'll try to dig up some restaurant names for you later this week.

The olive oil mill we went to outside Sulmona was FRANTOIO DELLA VALLE.

In Pacentro, a beautiful town a quick drive from Sulmona, this is a wonderful place for lunch with a view:

TAVERNA DE LI CALDORA

Just reading this thread makes me want to return very soon!!

Would you also consider driving up to Ascoli Piceno?

SAPORI DI CAMPAGNA is a restaurant you should put on your list; but we never did get to eat there; will relate the tale a little later. It's in the countryside near Ofena.

Here are the SlowFood Abruzzi Osterie from 2024:

https://www.chietitoday.it/ristoranti/osterie-italia-2024-migliori-abruzzo-chietino-slow-food.html

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Jean, we did our best to Jean-way a lot of our Sicily trip, but it turned out that we could have been fine with Erice 2 nights, Ortigia, 2 nights, Ragusa Ibla 3 nights, and Piazza Armerina one night --- I now think we should have given all those un-needed nights to Palermo and to one of the interior towns we had axed. But, it's so hard to tell in advance! That's why I'm seeking more advice than usual about Abruzzo.

That Sulmona B&B does look wonderful! So do ekscrunchy's two places to eat and the mill --- thank you!. Ascoli Piceno has been on our list on two different trips, so I hope we can make it this time for the bridge and the church and now that restaurant.

I hope I didn't go too far overboard detailing what things we like and don't like --- it's maybe an over-reaction to the questions the forum gets like "Where should I go in Italy?" with no other clues.

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1116 posts

sorry, I'm a little late to the party! I'll add my two cents, but you've got a great list and good advice already. Sulmona and Atri are two great choices for lodging. You didn't mention a seaside town and don't have any on your sightseeing list - was that intentional? It would be for me, I'm not a beach person, but it's interesting to see both mountains and sea.

Abbazia di San Clemente a Casauria — nice Romanesque church
Maybe do. Yes, very nice, but isn't normally open every day. They've expanded summer hours: San Clemente hours. Closed Mon/Tues. Also, it has been rebuilt/restored so it's empty, very little art and no furniture. A nice little museum describes the restoration. Nice simple gardens. I'd say a nice to see, not must see. I'd pick Santo Spirito a Maiella instead, an abbey also built by Abruzzo's only pope, Celestine V, but this one is at the end of a mountain road and built into the mountain rocks. Truly spectacular and not as empty. It'll take longer to get to though.

Campo Imperatore — alpine meadow
Must do. Tie it in with a visit to Rocca Calascio, Abruzzo's highest castle. I know you said you were done with castles but this one is really fun to walk around. There's a fantastic sandwich shop down the hill in Calascio town, just follow the signs. I usually take my friends on a day tour that starts with Rocca Calascio, then to Campo Imperatore, then to Santo Stefano di Sessanio. Yes, it's a little quiet, but it's very pretty. Or you could stop in Castel del Monte in between Rocca Calascio and Campo Imperatore, it's a bit livelier. A ski town in the winter.

Caramanico Terme — gorge walk
Must do. An absolute fairy tale walk and not very long (lots of up and down though.) You can extend the hike if you'd like, there are some interesting side trails. There's a great new picnic spot that we just inaugurated last weekend on a nearby trail. Send me a message if you'd like to meet for coffee.

Chieti — National Archeological Museum of Abruzzo
Must do for me. Not everyone's cup of tea but the displays are well done. Note there are TWO national archeological museums side by side in Chieti. Villa Frigerj has the famous Capestrano Warrior statue. La Civitella is newer and has better descriptions, maybe a smaller collection. I've done both in one day but I'm an archeology nut. Pick Villa Frigerj if you do one, you really want to see the Capestrano dude.

Citta Sant’Angelo
Maybe do. Very pretty town to walk around, one church to wander into. You can see the Adriatic and the Maiella mountain range at the same time. Not much else. Full of expats, for some reason there's a bit of an American colony there. I've only been twice, don't really need to go back.

Civitella del Tronto
Maybe do. Really cool fortress with great historical descriptions. I thought this was the town with the narrowest alley in Italy? At least they put up a sign that says so. But it's way far away from the rest of your list. If you go, do it while you're in Atri to reduce driving. And after Civitella, you might want to hop across the river to visit Ascoli Piceno in Le Marche region. I was there Easter Monday and had a great day just wandering around.

Guardiagrele
Maybe. Very pretty, has the famous "nuns' tits" pastries, some pretty churches and great views. It's one of many small and cute mountain towns and a good sample of the type. From here, it's easy to get to another cool fortress, Roccascalegna. It's a good one to visit because even though it's on top of the hill as per usual, there's an easy, less-steep path to get to it.

continued in next message

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L'Aquila — National Museum of Abruzzo
Must do. L'Aquila is thriving again after the 2009 earthquake and the historic centre rebuilding is nearly complete. Great piazzas, churches, restaurants and I really enjoyed the museum

Loreto Aprutino — castle, Italy’s narrowest lane, some of Italy’s best wine & olive oil
Meh. I was also seduced by the description but found it underwhelming. They have 3 not-great museums. 1. traditional ceramics, which I enjoy but it was just some rich guy who bought everything he could find and jammed it into cases and onto walls. Reminded me of the Etruscan museum in Orvieto which was also some magpie collector's stuff. 2. olive oil museum is an old frantoio (oil press) with a few dusty exhibits. 3. small archeological museum that was closed the day I was there but looks pretty old-fashioned on the website. I did buy some wine and some olive oil. Of course I'm biased but it was no better than what I buy locally from a family I adore (5th generation now taking over.)

Santa Maria ad Cryptas in Fossa
Wow, you got me. Haven't heard of this one. Road trip coming up!

Santo Stefano di Sessanio
Maybe. I like it, and as I said, usually roll it into my Calascio/Campo Imperatore day

Scanno
Must do. I removed your question mark. Go. No really, go! It's amazing. If you can make the time, see both the town and do the lake hike. There's a big parking lot and well-marked trailhead that takes you up to the point where you can view the perfect heart shape. And it's one of Abruzzo's few natural vs. man-made lakes. The trail has a few steep sections but shouldn't take more than an hour to get up to the viewing point. You can then go back the way you came, or follow the signs heading left, come down by an agriturismo (with a good restaurant) and walk back to your car along the lake.

Bominaco
Added to your must-do list. It's called the "Sistine Chapel of Abruzzo". Covered in frescoes, most in good condition. The artists were not Michelangelo but it's good. There is a sign on the door with a phone number. There are 3 local women who trade up giving tours, which are very well done. They can speak English, the one we had spoke very well. There is also a castle ruin just up the hill from the chapel. Then go to lunch in Prata d'Ansidonia at Osteria Il Borgo Dei Fumari. Fabulous old place with a warren of small dining rooms. Food is incredible.

If you don't end up staying in Sulmona and Atri, you need to put those on your visit list. Also Pacentro, up the hill from Sulmona, previously mentioned by another poster. I'm hesitant to add more, you have a long and very good list, but if you think you need more ideas, just say so. Have a wonderful trip to a fantastic region of Italy!

P.S. If you do add anything, I suggest heading to the sea at least one day. Vasto and Lanciano are very pretty small cities. Casalbordino and San Vito Chietino are two hill towns with their own seaside towns down the hill. Or north to Roseto, Pineto and so on.

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oh I just re-read your post and was reminded of some of your points above "the list".

Teramo, Lanciano, and Bominaco as options for lodging? I'd say no to Teramo (not nearly as interesting a provincial capital as the other 3) and Bominaco (too small and remote, but do catch the chapel). A lot of people really like Vasto down along the Trabocchi Coast. I'm also partial to Casalbordino.

yes, do a meal on a trabocco. But be wary! We were asked if we wanted half portions or full portions and naively chose full portions. After we ate until our stomachs hurt, we still had leftovers for 2 days and more to throw out on the 3rd day. Portion sizes are stupid and it's always a fixed menu. Ours was very good but just too much. If you want a fantastic seafood meal, try La Murena in Pescara. It's on the Lungomare but on the town side not right on the beach. It has been open since 1972 and is the best fish meal I've ever had. Truly.

Cheese factories: 2 fantastic ones right by me, one in Sant'Eufemia and the other in San Nicolao, where I've enjoyed the coming down the mountain party for the goats and sheep in the fall. Sant'Eufemia also has great hikes and the road through the mountain pass (Passo San Leonardo) to Pacentro and Sulmona, which is a don't-miss drive.

Wineries: I teased you above with the 5th-generation winery family near me - it's Guardiani Farchione in Tocco da Casauria. The place is drowning in vines and olive groves, including Zaccagnini, Abruzzo's biggest exporter, and a number of smaller family vineyards. Cantina Terzini, also in Tocco, has won prizes for Italy's best rosé (Cerasuolo).

Agnone is a terrific day out too, a long drive from here but a lively town and the bell foundry tour is one of a kind. I really enjoyed it. And Roman ruins in Molise - Parco Archeologico di Sepino - are wonderful, lots has been excavated and maintained and there's never more than 20 people on site. I loved that day out too. Of course we have Alba Fucens in Abruzzo. I've been to a few mediocre operas there but the setting is fantastic. It's no Verona Arena but a lot of fun.

October is definitely sagra time. I don't have a list handy, but the Internet will provide one.

Hope this helps.

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If you are going to Molise, I can offer a couple of tips based on my visit in 2023.
We stayed in Termoli and in an agriturismo inland from there.

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1755 posts

Wow, Nelly, you can be as late to my party as you want! I truly appreciate how thoroughly you considered my questions and plans and interests. You really helped me cut a few places and more definitely choose others. Everyone who has answered my Abruzzo plea has created a gold mine of information for future travelers searching in this forum for the region.

I will need to get back to you about some details! I laughed when I read that the Bominaco frescoes are “not Michelangelo” because little did you know that this is a positive for me — not only are Giotto and Donatello more my loves, but I find weird enjoyment in seeing, uh, "less than great" late medieval and early Renaissance art with its often funny idiosyncrasies.

We greatly enjoyed visiting ancient Saepinum in Molise on a previous trip to Puglia -- there were zero people, 20 sheep, and one dog, so the ruins were all ours.

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Ekscrunchy, we will be driving from Puglia to Abruzzo through Molise, and would be interested in your recommendations!

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Yes, need to see Campo Imperatore!

Yes, need to see the Capestrano statue (has anyone been to Pontremoli to visit the Museo delle Statue Stele Lunigianese? We loved those stone statues, so mysterious and yet huggable.)

Yes, very interested in the cheese factories and winery.

An opera in Alba Fucens is not a bad idea — my husband has been to operas all over Italy (not my cup of tea, however).
Going to both Agnone for the bells and Ascoli Piceno.

Abbazia di San Clemente a Casauria is for the decorative sculptures, so otherwise empty is fine.

I feel like I'm finally getting a grip on this trip!

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1116 posts

Glad to hear it! You'll find all kinds of interesting corners, I'm sure. I'm still exploring Abruzzo five years in.

An opera in Alba Fucens is not a bad idea — my husband has been to operas all over Italy (not my cup of tea, however).

Well fortunately for you the opera "season" will be over by October. When I say mediocre, I mean small-town theatre group mediocre. Set design is very limited, the singers do the classic "park and bark", not always on key. It's fun because sitting in a Roman arena at night watching the stars and the people is fun. Not because of the opera. However, they have a full summer calendar of different things, think I'll try something else this year. Festiv'Alba schedule

Happy to weigh in on your detailed questions. Usual disclaimer - free advice is worth what you pay for it - but I do get out a lot to see, do and eat. Always willing to share my experiences.