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Abruzzo --- two weeks in October

As usual, the problem is not finding things to see and do, but choosing among the too-many options.

Our interests (his, mine, & ours) are local and hyper-local food and wine, farmers’ markets, sagre, medieval church art and architecture, wildflowers, seeing the countryside, walking around in towns, and short nature hikes.

We’ll have a car and we often purposely take the smallest and twistiest roads on the map. We have gone beyond “slow travel” and are now well into “lazy travel.” Long lunches and not doing much in the afternoons. We like to stay a while in one place and do day trips.

Seems like Sulmona should be one home base, Atri another, but in addition we are now (after Sicily) OK with staying just a night or two in a few places (what we call “The Jean Way”). Maybe Teramo, Lanciano, and Bominaco?

We do like castles, Roman ruins, museums, cheese factories, wineries, but (as we decided during our latest Sicily trip) these are all things we have seen a lot of already and can skip when necessary. Similarly, at this point in our visits to Italy, we have visited an awful lot of beautiful little towns and we now need for a town to have some additional reason to see it, such as a restaurant or bakery or church or museum we want to go to.

Not interested in shopping, fancy restaurants, or luxury accommodations. Don’t need beaches or looking at much coastal scenery, but we do like to see wooden fishing boats and guys selling the day’s catch. My husband speaks Italian quite well and has enjoyed activities like helping with a grape harvest, seeing olive oil being pressed, cooking and eating meals with a cesarina and her family, and going on a truffle hunt. I’m the museums/churches/”happy just looking at stuff” one. I should add that, so soon after our Sicily trip, we've seen all the Baroque we want to see for a while....

In the area, we’d like to do something related to the Transumanza (what?), see the Trabocchi Coast and eat a meal in a fishing hut, see L’Aquila’s fountain of the 99 spouts, and visit Agnone’s 1000-year-old bell foundry (near by in Molise).

We'll be driving to Abruzzo after 10 days in Puglia.

Here are some places that look interesting to us (mostly gathered from Nellie’s many helpful posts) — are any similar enough that we could cut a few to make our two weeks work out?

Abbazia di San Clemente a Casauria — nice Romanesque church

Campo Imperatore — alpine meadow

Caramanico Terme — gorge walk

Chieti — National Archeological Museum of Abruzzo

Citta Sant’Angelo ?

Civitella del Tronto ?

Guardiagrele ?

L'Aquila — National Museum of Abruzzo

Loreto Aprutino — castle, Italy’s narrowest lane, some of Italy’s best wine & olive oil

Santa Maria ad Cryptas in Fossa

Santo Stefano di Sessanio ?

Scanno ?

Thanks for any advice — we are excited to explore a new region!

Nancy

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We spent two weeks in Abruzzo in October a few years ago.

It was among the best of our many Italian vacations.

We came from Le Marche--with a rental car, staying a few nights each in Senegallia and in Ascoli Piceno; we loved both towns. We then drove to the Riviera Cornero (Numana) and on to Sulmona and spent about four nights there, taking car trips to Scanno, Pacento, and even to Civietlla Casanova (food is a min interest so we wanted to have lunch at LA BANDIERA). Sulmona is large enough to just spend a day ro two wandering, and they have that big market in the piazza..

We also visited an olive oil factory and bought a lot of oil...just found it somewhere online; it was in back of the owner's house and we were treated like visiting royalty. Drove to a small country town(I can get the name if you want) to a bustling restaurant where I think we ere the only outsiders......all this from Sulmona.

Did not get to Sextantio and from what I've read, perhaps not worth the trip as it's mainly the Albergo diffuso and not much life there......but I did not go so can't really give opinions other than from what I read.

I can give you some more details but I urge you to discover this region overlooked by many foreign travelers; we did meet. few Canadians, as there was an emigration in the 1950s, I believe, from the region to Canada....

I'm sorry we did not get to L'Aquila.
Scenery is spectatular when you drive through the mountains, and the people are beyond welcoming.
You really do need a car in this region, if you can manage it.

Driving was very easy and upon leaving Sulmona, we drove for a fabulous lunch at ANGOLO D'ABRUZZO in Carsoli; even if food is not your thing, you might relish the experience, especially if you can go for weekend lunch.
From there, easy drive to FCO where we dropped our car off and went into Rome for a week.

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Thank you for the links, Roberto — I found that the Italian version of the Abruzzo tourism website had more on it than the English version, but I have Google Translate and my husband to translate for me! We always check the Borghi Piu Belli website (and its Youtube channel), even though it adds more towns to our list.

Ekscrunchy — all of your details and recommendations are very much appreciated! Food IS one of our things, although for us the more casual a place is, the better. Like, bonus points for paper tablecloths, food without decorative squirts on it, the cook’s kids doing homework at the next table, and not being asked to taste the wine — I guess that growing up with parents who preferred fancier places made us semi-allergic to them, even though the food is probably better. You have confirmed our choice of Sulmona as a place to spend several nights, and I just checked to see if it has a hardware store (one sign that a town is not too small or under-populated and not too dependent on tourism) and it has at least TWO. Plus the farmers market. Now we just need to choose a few more places to stay, maybe an agriturismo or B&B so that my husband can chat with people.

Ron, I’ve got the Bradt book on hold at the library and will definitely be contacting Nellie if she doesn’t see my post here. I’m hoping it’s the kind of guide book (like Cadogan and, yes, Rick Steves) that doesn’t make everywhere sound equally wonderful, but offers critiques and opinions.

Nancy

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”OK with staying just a night or two in a few places (what we call “The Jean Way”). Maybe Teramo, Lanciano, and Bominaco?”

Nancy your comment made me literally laugh out loud! You had me picturing your leisurely exploring, staying for extended time, and then shocked me with this sentence! I’m glad the short stops were a positive experience during your last trip. ; )

I had planned to be in Sulmona for three nights but had to return home quickly. It’s a stunning area! This is what I wrote in my trip report, and I did like the B&B very much. It has a nice rooftop view and a wonderful homemade breakfast that they let you choose the night before. Check on their parking, though. The lanes are narrow in that section.

”The train ride to Abruzzo was spectacular! Oh, the gorgeous mountain scenes! I arrived at the Sulmona train station and took a taxi to my B&B. I had picked B&B Il Marchese del Grillo as soon as I saw the views from the rooftop terrace! Picture the prettiest old style church steeple with flowers on this terrace and stunning mountains in every direction! I took several photos but mainly just stood there and took in the majestic setting!”

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I'll try to dig up some restaurant names for you later this week.

The olive oil mill we went to outside Sulmona was FRANTOIO DELLA VALLE.

In Pacentro, a beautiful town a quick drive from Sulmona, this is a wonderful place for lunch with a view:

TAVERNA DE LI CALDORA

Just reading this thread makes me want to return very soon!!

Would you also consider driving up to Ascoli Piceno?

SAPORI DI CAMPAGNA is a restaurant you should put on your list; but we never did get to eat there; will relate the tale a little later. It's in the countryside near Ofena.

Here are the SlowFood Abruzzi Osterie from 2024:

https://www.chietitoday.it/ristoranti/osterie-italia-2024-migliori-abruzzo-chietino-slow-food.html