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Holiday time in Budapest

Hi All!

I have 12-14 days in early December to explore between Budapest and Vienna. I want to do all things Christmas. I will probably spend at least 5 full days in Budapest. I’m open to any day trips from there. I’m planning at least one day in Bratislava then on to Vienna by train. I’m flexible on how many days to spend there.

A little about me: I’m a single woman, 57 and well travelled and I prefer to do it alone. I’m comfortable eating in restaurants on my own. I don’t mind group activities or tours. I’m pretty spontaneous and don’t really aggressively plan out an itinerary. I like to have a general idea of things I want to do and places I want to see then plan accordingly to what I’m feeling when I get up in the morning. I have some slight back issues that make it so I can’t walk long distances so I like to utilize public transportation and Uber as much as possible.

Firstly, please give your recs for hotels or air bnb’s near the main market in Budapest.

Second, I’m a chef so tell me everywhere I need to eat or anywhere I need to explore culinary wise. (I love foreign grocery stores, food halls,etc) I’m also hoping to pick up some unique pottery.

Finally, tell me everything I need to not miss. I’m not a fan of museums but I do want to soak up some culture. I’m also not a person who rushes through places just to check them off a list.

I realize this is a big ask, but I know there are some real helpful people in here who love Budapest! TIA!

Posted by
7831 posts

Its been a while since I've been to Budapest, and there are others on the forum more knowledgeable. I was just going to mention that Bratislava is quite close to Vienna so if you plan on going on a day trip there, do it from Vienna.

For Budapest, in addition to the typical list of don't miss, I thought the Parliament tour was excellent (the crown jewels are there). The Opera House is lovely, at least poke your head in. You could consider a tour or concert. Make sure to ride the metro, its the oldest in Europe. St. Mattias and Dohany Synagogue are very worthwhile. St. Stephen's will be decorated for Christmas.

In Vienna, again, there's the list of top sights. Beyond that, I really the Naschmrkt with some interesting buildings with art nouveau painting surrounding it. The national library is one of the most beautiful in the world.

Posted by
24585 posts

Young and in Central Europe; I envy you.

  1. List of restaurants (but I have a better one, that I can email you with a few categories that a chef might be interested in): https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/hungary/restaurants-in-budapest-revisited
  2. You said hotels near the market. I don’t think that’s really want you want to do, but you do want to be where you can get to the market quickly and efficiently. But the market is only a few hours a day for a few days so being well connected to the city is equally important. Look at these hotels, they are minutes from the market, and yet in a more “real” area. https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/hungary/rs-forum-favorite-hotels-and-their-cost Tell me your interests in a hotel, neighborhood style, budget, etc and I can help you narrow it down.
  3. Here is some poop on the Christmas markets. I have a little more for winter holiday things in Budapest that I can email you.: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/hungary/budapest-christmas-markets-d26f8ab1-2048-4160-bfb3-bf13b096683e
  4. But you are a chef, so we need to get you into some real markets and not just the tourist markets. I have some ideas, but there are others. Maybe someone who can walk you through and do some translating and tell you about the culture around some of the produce: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/hungary/budapest-s-great-market-halls
  5. Do you like Wine? So, I don’t have a lot lined up for December just yet, but more will appear in time: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/hungary/15-october-in-budapest-scottish-chorus-and-free Or I will PM you when they come up in my email. Also, if you would like a winery tour, or two, I have the guide. This is some of the best wine producing climate and soil in Europe, but because the wineries are mostly family owned very few make enough to export so they remail and local enjoyment. But family owned means great visits.
  6. Chef, how about spending a day in a kitchen with a local chef? That’s possible.
  7. A local spice shop?
  8. Well with good food and wine, generally good music and theatre goes well. Again, there are some secrets to picking a good performance. But here is the list of venues: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/hungary/concerts-in-budapest

For someone like you that has a lot of focus but likes the meandering life …. A lot of this is best done with long discussions so feel free to write.

Posted by
24585 posts

Now the day trips and how many days.

That list above will take you more time than you have with both cities to complete, so I will try and be fair to seeing them both.

  • Vienna not less than 4 full days. I would say more, but so much about what Vienna is is the museums and you arent a museum hound. In sheer size, the area of budapest that is of interest to most tourists is several times larger than the area in Vienna of interest to most tourists. The larger size in Budapest provides more opportunity for "real" discoveries I think. But i am biased.
  • Budapest, likewise not less than 4 full days.

That leaves you four days. I would say:

  • a day in Szentendre which is a day trip out of Budapest and
  • a day in Gyor and the archabbey at Pannonhalma which is on the way to Vienna.

There is two of the four. Bratislava? I cant get excited about Bratislava. Without an insdier for a tour you will find yourself in "Old Town" which is just a tourist playground. Pretty and everything. But not much depth of culture.

  • You might like a day trop out of Vienna for Melk. Thats pretty special. Lets say yes

And say now you have 1 day left unassigned. Post in the Austria foum and in the Hungary forum and see the responses you get and the help you get in uncovering things of interest then put the day in either Vienna or Budpaest.

Posted by
80 posts

Hi Mr E.

Thanks so much!!

Yes, please send me the other list of restaurants. [email protected]

Most of the hotels that you suggested are booked. I think I might be better off with an apartment. If you know of other hotels, that would be great. I would like to keep it under $100 a night. I won't be spending much time in a room so a fancy hotel, although I love them, would be a waste. An elevator is a must, and I don't need breakfast as I like trying cafe, bakeries, etc instead. I would like to be central to most things or be close to public transportation that is the most effective to get me to all the top spots. If you jave any apartment ideas, please let me know. I may send you a few listings I found to get your thoughts.

The market info was great. Please send me whatever else you have that might be helpful for winter activities.

I don't drink so the wineries, bars, etc won't be of interest. Although I do plan to check out one or two of the ruin bars.

I'm definitely interested in doing a cooking class or two. Spice shops, market halls, grocery stores, specialty food stores or specialty kitchen shops are all on my radar, whatever suggestions you have are welcomed!

Restaurants, nothing to upscale, I hate fussy food lol. I adore street food; places locals tend to go. I'm not a huge sweet eater but enjoy the occasional pastry or gelato. Definitely want to try the country's specialty dishes.

Posted by
10724 posts

Hi, chefkim68, I just got back from Budapest a few weeks ago and loved it! I'm older than you by about 12 to 13 years, but I'm also single and travel solo most of the time. Let me say that the food in Budapest was wonderful! One restaurant that I especially recommend is called Goli. The head chef is from Tel Aviv, and it has some of the best Mediterranean food I've ever eaten. I found it on the Michelin website, and it's really starting to make a name for itself. It's small, so you definitely need a reservation. https://www.goli.hu It's open for both lunch and dinner.

Another place I really enjoyed was Két Szerecsen, which I found via Time Out. And it was wonderful. I had a very tasty dish called Mézes Mustáros Csirkesaláta, which was a salad with slices of chicken and avocado in a honey mustard sauce with bacon and cherry tomatoes. It was delicious and the rest of their menu looked fantastic. I wish I would've had time to go back.

I stayed at the Medos hotel, which I really liked. The price was right (I paid about $108 per night with breakfast included), and it was very convenient to restaurants, sights and shops, and also very convenient to trams and the Metro. The rooms were really large, too which was nice. The Odeon Metro station was just 2 blocks away.

But if you're looking for an apartment or a hotel, you might want to check on Booking.com. You can filter it to get the requirements you want; and ask that it just pull up options that are available for your dates. It should hopefully come up with some suggestions for you. After you find one, I would suggest looking to see if you can book directly because many times it's cheaper. Sometimes it's not, though, or sometimes you can't. Some establishments just want someone else to handle the booking for them.

There were many food booths in the Great Market Hall that I went to (stay on the first floor for the food options).

In terms of sightseeing, I would recommend touring Parliament. I unfortunately did not get a chance to because it was closed the day I had my ticket since Parliament was in session, but the building is just magnificent and huge. The Basilica of St. Stephen is also worth a visit. It is just gorgeous on the inside and outside.

And I really loved Matthias Church on the Buda side. It was absolutely stunning and probably one of the prettiest churches I've ever been in. Other than that, I mostly just walked around and looked at the incredible architecture, parks, greenery, flowers, and so on. I had such a wonderful time in Budapest and I can't wait to go back.

One more thing: if you like opera, I highly recommend finding out what's playing at the opera and buying a ticket for it if you can. The Hungarian State Opera is a beautiful building, and seeing Turandot there was a fantastic experience. I just loved it. I used to work in opera, so I'm very picky, and this was a phenomenal production. So, I will definitely be going back there on my next trip. And of course, there are other venues in town such as the Liszt Academy which has any wonderful productions and performances.

Posted by
10724 posts

Kim, I would suggest deleting your mail address above. There are spammers here on the forum sometimes, and others of unknown quality, and you never know who might pluck it out.

You can send a private message to Mr. E by just clicking on his name. This will take you to his page (located here) and give you the option to private message him (just scroll all the way to the bottom). That way, you won't have to worry about someone using or abusing your email address.

Posted by
5745 posts

Checking apartments on booking.com is definitely worth doing, but I have more success with finding apartments via AirBnB. I liked this one and it looks like it’s available for parts of December. Making sure you are near a metro, tram, or bus stop will be helpful once you are here.

I haven’t been yet, but this might be interesting. https://maps.app.goo.gl/7U7yeQNPNxYxc4v56?g_st=ipc.

Edit: about the Medos Hotel

The Odeon Metro station was just 2 blocks away.

I think autocorrect played a trick on Mardee - it’s the Oktagon stop on the M1 metro line.

Posted by
24585 posts

TexasTravelMom, I am sure Mardee was refering to the music she was hearing when she admired such a beautiful city (google Odeon ... remember I am an architect, so I understood)

Posted by
24585 posts

You sound a tad Bohemian so I will put together a list accordingly. Lets start with this (then I will add to this post as I have time and thoughts).

FOOD
- Lunch stop: The standup counter at the window of Hentes falatozója
https://youtu.be/yK7RYJkx-Hs?si=fCEMsf8wDFeznHb-
- Lunch stop 2: https://youtu.be/17ollavKuNM?si=l-pbvqvIrWgn8Fte Skip
ahead to 7:40 (by the way Istvan isnt with us any longer). But happy
to take you, or rescue you if you go alone.
- Lunch stop 3: You got to do Jewish. Gwad I love Jewish anything
Budapest. Cafe Tamar Budapest. Okay more Israeli than hard core
Jewish.
- Dinner: hard core Jewish:
https://youtu.be/vJYu8U3RALM?si=1j5miU-AXZG3ERXO
- The best Persian outside of Persia https://darband.hu/
- Darn good Georgian https://furiarestobar.hu/
- Hungarian - Ukrainian fusion which is some of the best food of any
type in Budapest.
https://www.instagram.com/cork_breakfast_and_wine?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y%3D

Markets:
- Sure the Great Market Hall, but the Bosnyák tér market where you can
try some crispy pig ears and juicy sausage right out of the boiling
pig fat. Mmmmmmmmm!!!!
- Spices at The Spicery. Keep looking, you will find it:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/XSRAxgtasmnreXpT6

Cooking Classes and Dinner with Locals
- Flavors of Budapest https://cookinghungary.com/
- Chef Parade https://www.chefparade.hu/en/home
- Culinary Hungary https://budapestcookingclass.com/ (Agnes is a hoot.
Stir a bit, drink a little palinka, stirr a bit more, a bit more
palinka .... )
- EATWITH.COM provides an opportunity to dine in the home of a local or
have a private dinner by an expert chef or learn how to cook the
local specialties. In Budapest there are currently over 30 options
to choose from. https://www.eatwith.com/

Posted by
10724 posts

I think autocorrect played a trick on Mardee - it’s the Oktagon stop on the M1 metro line.

TexasTravelMom, I am sure Mardee was refering to the music she was hearing when she admired such a beautiful city (google Odeon ... remember I am an architect, so I understood)

Ha ha, nope, just a plain old brain lapse! 🙄 I mentioned the Odeon metro station in Paris on another thread and I guess it got stuck in my head. Thanks for the correction, TTM—and the laugh, Mr. E!

Posted by
80 posts

Mardee thanks so much for the reccomemdations. Both restaurants sound fantastic! The more suggestions I get, the more excited I am 😆

Texas Mom, would love links to any recent Air BnB’s you’ve been to!

Mr E, amazing info! I will be picking your brain again!