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Central Europe trip

We are a couple in our 60's and are planning to visit Central Europe next spring of 2027. Our flights are booked, our cities are chosen, and I am now ready to start researching/booking lodging. We enjoy local culture, food markets, WW2 history, castles, walking tours, architecture, churches, and nature. We are not interested in concerts, night life, salt mines, caves, or thermal baths. We will have 20 days (not including transatlantic flight days.) This is what I'm thinking:

Prague - 4 nights
Vienna - 4 nights (including day trip to Bratislava)
Budapest - 5 nights (including day trip to Szentendre)
Krakow - 4 nights (including day trip to Auschwitz
Warsaw - 3 nights

Questions I have - Would you keep 3 nights in Warsaw? or reduce to 2 and add extra day to where? What do you think of 5 nights in Budapest? I am open to more day trips possibly; I'm just including the ones I am certain about right now. Any other suggestions regarding this itinerary? Thank you so much for any input you might give.

Posted by
4908 posts

I rather like the number of days you have in each city. I like Warsaw quite a bit, so I think 3 nights would be good, which gives you two full days there. One day, in my opinion, would shortchange the city. There is much WWII history there. But also a very rich Polish history...

  • Jan Sobieski, the Polish king who arrived just in time to defeat the Ottomans in 1683 as they nearly broke through the walls of Vienna (perhaps the person most responsible for the preservation of western Europe's Christian heritage)
  • Jòzef Piłsudski -- military leader, statesman, chief of state of the new post-WW1 Poland 1918-1922 who rode out with Polish troops to defeat the stronger Soviet Red Army at the Battle of Warsaw in 1920 (the victory being enabled in part by the insubordination of one Joseph Stalin who refused to follow orders to reinforce Red Army troops at Warsaw because he was seeking glory elsewhere in Poland). Piłsudski was also a strong supporter of democracy in post-WWI Poland... until it didn't do what he wanted it to do, so he led a coup. Perhaps the person most responsible for current-day democracy in western Europe as the Red Army would likely have been emboldened to continue fighting west if it had conquered Poland in 1920).
  • Father Jerzy Popiełuszko, a priest who spoke out against communism during his popular weekly masses in Warsaw in the 1980's... and paid for it with his life. He is buried in a churchyard in Warsaw.
Posted by
899 posts

I think this itinerary is well balanced as is!
I just spent 3 nights in Budapest and I wish I had more. And having a day to just relax and reset is important.
Are you looking at using trains in between cities?
I flew from Krakow to Budapest and so glad I did.

Posted by
27567 posts

UPrague - 4 nights
Vienna - 4 nights (including day trip to Bratislava)
Budapest - 5 nights (including day trip to Szentendre)
Krakow - 4 nights (including day trip to Auschwitz
Warsaw - 3 nights

Questions I have - Would you keep 3 nights in Warsaw? or reduce to 2
and add extra day to where? What do you think of 5 nights in Budapest?
I am open to more day trips possibly; I'm just including the ones I am
certain about right now. Any other suggestions regarding this
itinerary? Thank you so much for any input you might give.

When I think of Prague, I think of 3 nights, but its your arrival city so 4 is perfect in my mind, for my interests.

Vienna is good at 4 nights for my taste, but I would get an early train (9am) from Prague to squeeze just a bit more time into Vienna.

I am sort of biased on Budapest because I know how much there is to see and do that is of interest to me. Again, an early trian from Vienna.

As pointed out above flying to Krakow makes good sense. But that means planning your trip around the 4 days of the week (Su, Mo, We, Fr) that Wizzair makes the flight. But worth it. In the last 12 months or so I have been on Wizzair 7 times. They do a good job. How many days? Never been so purley speculative but the flight arrives early and if you make a day of it, 4 nights migh be more than you need.

I am not saying to do this, but suggesting that you look at your own interests and see if maybe pulling a night out of Krakow and Warsaw and use it to spend a night in Cesky Krumlov between Prague and Vienna makes sense to you. Lovely city and makes the trip to Vienna less of a day in a train. Look at the train from Prague and CK Shuttle or Bean Shuttle to Vienna or the shuttle for both legs.

Posted by
713 posts

If you like art museums and palaces, I would take one night from Budapest and add it to Vienna. You’ll have about 3 full days in Vienna, and I think that’s a little tight to comfortably see its major attractions.

Posted by
27567 posts

We enjoy:

Local culture: Budapest is a very good city to just get comfortable in and do what the locals do. For a lot of that, the location of your hotel will have impact on that. You rule out concerts below,

Food markets: So, the “famous” one is the Central Market Hall from about 1890. It’s a strange mix of tourists and locals. But that ensures that the produce vendors and the meat markets remain profitable (cause Tourists don’t buy pig snouts). But there are a half dozen others around town. I have two favorites one began in the 1890’s and on Saturday morning the inside and a large lot in the back are full of vendors. Every sort of fruit, vegetable and meat imaginable … food booths as well so it’s a great place for lunch. No tourists because it is out of the city center. The other is a modern construction behind a shopping mall. No tourists here either. A mix of produce and meats and cheeses and cafes and … It’s where the locals of our generation hang out. Again, out of the city center. And there is a third come to think of it that is in front of a very nice hotel, in the city center but a few blocks off the tourist trail, so again few tourists. I like the market that takes pace in the park in front on weekends. Yes, for the markets please do try and be here on a Saturday morning.

WW2 history: Well, few places are richer in WWII history, but here its from a different perspective than say London or Normandy. This is about the Holocaust, Nazi collaboration and then Nazi occupation; eventually spilling into Russian occupation. There are tours dedicated to the subject. The past few weeks the Danube River has been low enough for the government to get in and removed a lot of unexploded WWII bombs sitting around the bridges. Generally, once or twice a year a neighborhood gets evacuated while they dig something out of a building basement. There are tours dedicated to the subject. You can visit me too; I own a cold war civil defense bomb shelter. Long story.

Castles: Well, you got me on that one. There is Buda Castle but it’s not a classic castle. It does have foundations back to 13th century I believe. And I believe there are some basement tours that get you close to that. As an interesting place to visit … hard to beat. But castle? Debatable. Then there is the castle in the city park. Built in 1896 for the 1000 year anniversary of Hungarian nationhood. It combines details from a number of castles in Transylvania (use to be Hungarian). Castles are just not the thing here.

Walking tours: “Free” or with paid guides or from Rick Steves do it yourself list or I have a couple that I like. They are in what I sent you. Walking the streets here is very enjoyable and when you get tired with have a great set of trams to get your around with a view. Free if you are 65 or older.

Architecture: It is so good that Anthony Bourdain called it Architectural pornography. There is no old town, but the old part of the city is nearly 10x larger than the tourist district in Vienna or Prague. We have some big names like the parliament and the opera house, the Buda Castle and Mathias Church and the Basilica. But there are some hidden places of interest like a wonderful old library. And to be honest every bit of the old part of town is fascinating.

Churches: We do have a couple. The Basilica in Pest and Mathias in Buda. Most tourists miss the inner-city parish church which sits on Roman ruins and dates to the 11th century. But there are more spectacular churches in the world. We also have synagogues. The largest in Europe is here and it’s stunning. Within about a 10-minute walk are 2 other fascinating and beautiful synagogues and another handful around town that the tourists always miss.

Nature: For that we have Margrit Island and City Park and they both do a pretty good job at reflecting it.

Posted by
27567 posts

We are not interested in:

Concerts: I presume that is modern and classical? Okay then, for a little cultural immersion how about theater? A local theater full of Hungarians do Hungarian stuff?
Night life: Once again, you should chose a place in town that is away from that.
Salt mines: Hey, I had fun in Hallstatt. Surprise me too. None in Budapest to worry about.
Caves: There are a few. Most tourists don’t know.
Thermal baths: You said that you were looking for local culture. If you change your mind on this one I can send you to one that is all Hungarians; mostly our age. It is a cultural practice here. But not the end of the world if you skipped it.

Not on your yes or no list:

Local wine and Hungarian cooking and the regional cooking is superb.
We have some interesting museums. But not to the extent that Vienna does. Tell me a theme or subject and I can send you a list.
Evening boat tour is worth the time
A stop at the Archabbey at Pannonhalma on the way from Vienna to Budapest. +++ Good idea, but better if you add a day just for that.

Szentendre:

Yes. Worth the effort. Train up and boat back. The train is free if you are 65 or older.

Posted by
6254 posts

Given your interests, I would try to find another night in Vienna (I am trying not to be biased). With the current schedule, you will only have two full days in Vienna, giving one day to Bratislava.

One of those two days would be at Schonbrunn and the second day would be a mad dash to see the sites in the first district - a real breadth over depth scenario. Vienna is a deep city that gets better the longer you stay in one place - case in point: spending 2-3 hours in a coffeehouse or strolling through the Sankt Marx cemetery (something you will want to do in the spring).

For Vienna, I would also hope that you will be visiting on a Friday or Saturday as those are the only days when the real food markets occur. Skip Naschmarkt and go for Karmelitermarkt or Brunnenmarkt/Yppenplatz.

Posted by
899 posts

J.kay I know it would be the reverse for you but I flew Krakow to Budapest on LOT Polish Airlines and liked the airline, plane, and crew. It had a quick connection in Warsaw. There is also the direct Wizzair flight as Mr E mentioned, just watch for extra fees for checked bag and carry-on when factoring total cost.

Lots of recent trip reports for your cities so make sure to check the “Trip Reports” section on the forum for some ideas on things to do and places to visit.

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports

Posted by
27567 posts

I know we were all taught to believe the claims about Wizzair, but In the last 16 months I have done Budapest to Podgorica RT twice, Budapest to Rome RT, Valencia to Budapest and Budapest to Zadar RT. That’s 9 Wizzair flights. All within 15 minutes of on-time. No extra charges and surprisingly on all those flights I never saw a carry on bag being measured or weighed (and a lot going on the plane were oversized). Wizzair’s on time record and cancelation record are not quite as good as LOT because LOT is among the best in the industry, but Wizzair is better than conventional airlines like Lufthansa.

Wizzair has no “extra fees” that you must watch out for. When you log into the site the second screen asks what you want. Choose the fare with the checked luggage if that’s what you want. No special reading skills are required. Everything is very up front. It’s the same on LOT and Lufthansa and most every other airline. You dont have to do any "factoring". You just log in and run the scenario and see what the charge is. I just did that for LOT and Wizzair for this response. Took 5 minutes.

With Wizzair, on google flights the fare quote for the day I looked at was 359 PLN (82€). But when you get to Wizzair’s website not too surprisingly that’s for the cheapest fare category. The fare you are first quoted is without a checked bag. So, on the second screen where the deals are plainly spelled out you click on the upgrade. The new price is 467.49 PLN (107€). Seats in the back 2/3rds of the plane are free. So, no other charges. Food, drinks, snacks all charged on the plane. Nothing free. Flight time 1:10 direct.

On google flights the fare quote for LOT the day I looked was 513.32 PLN (117€). But when I got to LOT’s website, surprisingly, the fare you are first quoted is without a checked bag, just like with Wizzair. So, you click on the upgrade, just like Wizzair. The new price is 639.52 PLN (146€). Seats in the back 2/3rds of the plane are free. So, no other charges. Food, drinks, snacks all charged on the plane. Nothing free. Flight time 3:50 with one change.

So, the choice on the random day I picked is a 3:50 flight for 146€ with LOT or a 1:10 flight for 107€ with Wizzair. If the departure times work for you, seems like a no-brainer. Or, Ryan also does the route. They are fine too.

Posted by
27567 posts

Emily, i am almost with you. I missed the note about Bratislava. First thing I would do is skip Bratislava. I can think of quite a few places I would use the time before Bratislava.

Posted by
4 posts

First of all, thank you so much for this valuable information. Your comments will greatly help me pin down some details. To clarify a few things:
1. Yes, we are planning to take trains between Prague, Budapest, and Vienna. We will fly to Krakow and train to Warsaw.
2. Yes, we definitely want to take early trains when we can to enjoy more time at next city.

3. I have gone back and forth about visiting Cesky Krumlov. I considered a day trip (but 3 hrs one way so ruled it out) I will consider staying one night, but then I question myself if I really want to adda another hotel change) I will keep thinking about this world problem. :)
4. I like the historical museums more than the art museums.
5. When I mentioned churches, I was referring to all places of worship. Sorry I didn't phrase it correctly.
6. Seriously thinking of adding a day to Vienna as the train to Vienna from Prague is 4 1/2 hrs. long and with one of the days being on Sunday, I will be limited in activities I'm assuming. I will take one day away from Prague probably.

Posted by
16277 posts

Hi,

On your interest in WW2 and history museums, I would suggest the Military History Army Museum in Warsaw and the Army Tank Museum in Prague if you have to time to pursue these esoteric places. They are more elaborate, extensive than one might suppose, especially that in Prague.

Posted by
27567 posts

We have 3 museums that come to mind that you might be interested in. The Retro which puts you back into commie Budapest. Very interactive. And the Castle Museum which documents the founding and growth of the city. And the National Museum which is what the name implies. And the Railway Museum with dozens of steam and early diesel locamotives and the carriages they pulled in an old railway turning house. Wait, that's 4.

You said nothing wrong on the churches. I assumed so I covered the synagogues. This is a city that was heavily influenced by Jewish culture. Despite the Holocaust Jewish life and culture remains influential.

Any interest in flying in an old commie biplane?