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Albania hiking, food, itinerary feedback requested

I’d welcome feedback on this rough plan visiting Albania from September 11-28. We’re an active couple in our 60s who love hiking, food, and adventure.

Our tentative itinerary:
• Fly into Tirana
• Tirana - 2 nights (1 full day)
• Shkodra - 2 nights (1 full day)
• Theth - 3 nights (2 full days)
• Hike from Theth to Valbona
• Valbona - 2 nights (1 full day)
• Return to Shkodra and Tirana (spend a night in one of them)
• Pick up a rental car in Tirana (already booked with Avis)
• A week in the south, including at least 3 days in Gjirokastra which seems like a great base
• Return to Tirana for at least our last night before flying out

1) Is 1 full day enough to get a reasonable taste of Tirana at the beginning? We’ll have other opportunities to see the city in the middle and end of our trip.

2) Any suggestions for great day hikes – especially around Theth and Valbona, but also around Shkodra and in the south?

3) When we leave Valbona, should we spend a night back in Shkodra before continuing the next morning to Tirana to pick up our car, or go all the way to Tirana that day?

4) We have 7 days for the southern part of our trip. Do you recommend visiting Berat for the day en route on Gjirokastra, or spending 1 or 2 nights there? In general we prefer to stay in fewer places and explore them more in depth, rather than seeing the maximum number of towns.

5) I’ve read that parking is difficult in Gjirokastra. Is it like some cities where you can leave your car in a big lot on the outskirts even if you’re staying in the center, or should we look for a place to stay with convenient location for a car (which would probably be in a less convenient location for exploring the town on foot)?

6) Any suggestions for other places we shouldn’t miss in the south? Permeti sounds like a good daytrip from Gjirokastra.

7) We’re not big beach people, but we could enjoy a day or two in a coastal town that is culturally interesting (not modern touristy) with a half day relaxing on a beach. I haven’t found such a town; can you recommend one?

8) We love food – from simple/authentic to fancy. Can you recommend any restaurants in these places, or really exceptional ones elsewhere in the country (we are willing to go out of our way)? Are there any great food tours or other unique food experiences?

9) Are there any places to rent good bicycles and ride for a day in/near these towns?

10) Any other suggestions based on the above? We can change anything about the itinerary at this point.

Thanks in advance, and I promise to follow up after our trip with what we’ve learned.

Posted by
23633 posts

Ive been to most of where you are going and I think its brilliant. One trip does noy make me an expert, so I think I will leave it at that. Wonderful country. I am jealous.

Posted by
5543 posts

Ah, what wonderful questions!

I spent 2 weeks in Albania in 2023 but I have very few answers for you. Here is my imperfect attempt at a few answers. And I definitely want to hear what you end up, as I am contemplating a 2 week return in 2026.

  1. Yes. I like Tirana but if you have more time later, one day at the beginning will give you a taste.
  2. The most suggested is the hike to the Blue Eye. Note that I haven’t been to Theth and I don’t hike.
  3. Head on to Tirana. Be sure to take the ferry on Lake Komani.
  4. You could do this either way. I happen to like Berat and an overnight (or two) would be my preference - but you could see most of the town in a day.
  5. I want to know the answer to this also. My daughter rented a car last year but I used busses.
  6. There’s a lot to see - you just have to choose.
  7. Again I’m no help. I stayed in Ksamil, but they say it gets really crowded depending on time of year. I am started to look at Vlore/Dhermi/Himara for next year.
  8. No help.
  9. No help.
  10. No help.

Here’s my trip report from my last trip, in case it’s helpful.
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/albania-a-lovely-adventure

Posted by
646 posts

Sounds like a nice trip! My main advice is don’t miss Butrint (ancient Roman settlement) if you are spending time in the south. Vlorë is also very nice. We stayed in Sarandë but the beach there wasn’t great- nearby Ksamil as mentioned above is nicer. A highlight for us was the mountain driving between Vlorë and Sarandë.

Posted by
797 posts

I don't have any helpful input, but this sounds similar to a trip I've had in the back of my mind for a while now, so I really hope you get lots of responses, and I'd love it if you keep us updated about your trip!