Trip Outline:
Tirana 2 nights,
Valbona 2 nights,
Tirana 2 nights (again),
Berat 3 nights,
Korcë 3 nights,
Gjirokastra 3 nights,
Ksamil 2 nights
I arrived in Tirana early afternoon - the BA flight parked out on the tarmac and we all disembarked and casually walked across to the terminal. Immigration took a total of about 7 minutes, including the walk from the plane.
Transportation: There are busses into town, but I took the easy way out and took a taxi from the very casual taxi line. There was someone organizing it and he put two separate young parties in front of me into the same taxi, then explained one of them didn’t have much money so he arranged for them to split the cost. :) My taxi was a flat fee of €20 (2,500 LEK) for the 30 minute ride - prices printed inside the taxi, as well as verbally confirmed before I got in).
For once I wasn’t the one starting the conversation. Albert my driver welcomed me, asked my name, introduced himself, and taught me to say thank you in Albanian (I asked). I kind of think he took a tiny bit of scenic detour through the city center to point out some buildings (the university, a museum, etc.) - but with a flat rate, no scam involved - I could tell he just wanted me to see a few extras blocks.
Tirana: 2 nights at the Sar’Otel Boutique Hotel.
Somewhat small, close to Skanderberg Square and very central. A great soft landing and at $70/night, my most expensive stay.
Saturday: After checking in (a little early) I walked to the square where there was a vintage car show going on! The first thing to catch my eye was an old U.S. car with “Border Patrol” on it. Lol!
After that, I wandered streets near the square, thoroughly enchanted with the mix of old Communist era buildings, old Italian-occupied era buildings, new construction, and smart chic restaurants and coffee shops. Visited Bunk’Art 2 (500 LEK - @ $5). There are several museums that focus on Albania’s communist history. This one, built into a nuclear bunker below ground originally for the use of different ministry branches at that time, focused on the human side of the era. Similar to House of Terror in Budapest, this was the actual facility where suspected subversives were brought to be interrogated, tortured, and sometimes killed.
Dinner at Shendeverë Wine Bar by Çobo - a full-scale restaurant that is an offshoot of the well-known (in Albania) winery Cobo. Then time for bed!
Sunday: I caught the blue Porcelan line bus (11) a few blocks from the hotel and rode 20 minutes up to Dajti Ekspres and took the cable car 15 min above Tirana for great views. They advertise it as the longest cable car in the Balkans. At the top are a variety of family activities such as horse rides, playgrounds, miniature golf, and plenty of picnic areas. There is also a great restaurant with views - not expensive. Then it was 15 min down and back to the bus.
Bus cost was 40 LEK (coins) and you get your ticket from a ticket seller on board. I was both confused and amused on my first trip when he completely ignored me even though I was holding my money and ready, just like everyone around me. I had no idea if maybe seniors were free, he was afraid to sell to an American, or if my 500 bill was too big (that was it as I figured out on the way back, when I had exact change and a different official was happy to sell me a ticket).
The bus stop was midway between the cable car and Bunk’Art 1 - a more comprehensive Communist era museum (but still in a bunker). I admit I wasn’t up for another museum on the subject and opted to skip it. But your bus trip would get you to both.