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Updated: Four fall cities/towns in Belgium and Holland -- Please weigh in on these choices!

Update: Thanks to all the great feedback, I think I have rough idea formulated. Please let me know what you think of this:

Week 1: Fly into Brussels and transfer to Namur, capital of the Walloon Region. A week exploring Wallonia

Week 2: Up to Brussels for a week; daytrips, etc.

Week 3+: Probably a couple nights in Rotterdam first, then onwards to Zwolle and a week focused the historic Hanseatic cities. Also Park Hoge Veluwe (h/t @Tim)

Week 4: Leiden and daytrips. Fly home from Amsterdam.

Thoughts? Additional ideas? Cautionary tales? Thanks in advance!

Original Post: So, I've got a good travel planning challenge for the Forum (at least I hope it is good!) Here are the parameters:

  1. An autumnal month (i.e. any time September through November) in Belgium and Holland, with the four weeks spread out over four one-week, apartment-based stays.
  2. Ideally the four cities link up from one to the next with relative ease by train, i.e. no two- and three-transfers to relocate week to week. We will NOT have a car for any portion of the trip
  3. The week at each city should be a combination of an interesting and scenic base, with access to a variety of direct daytrips by train or bus (up to 90 or so minutes away). Our interests are history, art, architecture, food, drink, photography, walking/hiking, and natural history. In our 60s, still actively walking and reasonably fit. Not interested in massive crowds, nightlife, lager louts, 420 tourism, discotheques, extreme sports, or becoming internet influencers.
  4. We're those weirdos who actually really likes Brussels, so one of the four will be Brussels. But it can be at the beginning, end, or middle.
  5. I assume we'll fly in and out of either Amsterdam or Brussels. Don't worry too much about that. We can also add padding to account for an airport hotel or transfer at the beginning or end.
  6. In addition to Brussels, we have also visited Ghent, Bruges, Kortrijk, and Tournai. Any of those are still on the table for a week-long stay, but just noting that up front. Also, we're hoping the four stops provide a mix of experiences and variations of themes (typography, history, cuisine, etc.)

I think that covers it but lob questions if not. Otherwise, I'm really curious what you think are four puzzle pieces that go well together to create a terrific month in the Low Countries. Thanks in advance!

Posted by
6323 posts

I would suggest Leiden as one base, which is a beautiful university town. It is the home of Leiden University, which is one of the oldest universities in the country, and is quite lovely with charming cobblestone streets and 17th century gabled houses. It has many historic buildings but does not have the "touristy" feel of many other places. It's a much more livable feel. The city has many picturesque canals and waterways, which are lovely to walk along and there are boat tours you can take. And there are lots of parks, gardens, and green spaces in Leiden.

There are several museums, including the Rijksmuseum van Oudheden (National Museum of Antiquities), which has an wonderful collection of Egyptian artifacts. There is the Museum De Lakenhal (Municipal Museum), and the Naturalis Biodiversity Center. The Hortus Botanicus (botanical garden), which was established in 1590, was the site of the planting of Holland’s first tulip bulbs in 1593. Rembrandt was born in Leiden, as was Albert Einstein, who taught at Leiden University. St. Pieterskerk is quite historic and worth seeing, even if you just check out the outside of it. Rembrandt's parents were married and buried there.

In terms of transportation, Leiden has very easy access by train to other cities in the Netherlands. Its charm and beauty and overall residential atmosphere made it a wonderful destination. I hate to gush too much, but I really cannot recommend Leiden enough.

Posted by
7310 posts

It's not clear whether you mean to rule Amsterdam in (or) out. It strikes me as more desirable than Brussels, on all your scoring metrics.

I also love Leiden, and think it's a good choice. A less rich destination, but more residential is Amersfoort (but a long walk to the train station.) Would you consider someplace close to the Hoge Veluwe park? A town that corresponds to Amersfoort that way in Belgium could be Lier. Lier brings up the issue of train lines. Some popular destinations require a train change in Antwerp. Same line, Turnhout is very attractive, but with fewer serious "tourist attractions" itself.

Edit: Utrecht scores close to Leiden

Since you like Brussels, would you consider staying in Leuven instead? It might correspond to Leiden in the tentative list. It's beautiful, much to do, a University town, and good transportation. Bus to BRU, I think.

Posted by
11159 posts

We spent a wonderful week in Leiden and highly recommend it as one of your bases. Not far from Leiden, take a good look at The Hague. Delft is ten minutes away. I love The Netherlands and have Dutch heritage. But I have traveled in Belgium too; I just prefer The Netherlands.

Posted by
2126 posts

I know you said just Belgium and Holland, but we spent a terrific month in the Low Countries some years ago, when my husband and I were about your age with similar interests. We too did a week in each place, but we added a piece of Luxembourg and Germany into the mix.

We started with a week in Bruges in early-September -- since you've been, you could substitute Brussels.

Then it was a short train trip to Luxembourg. We spent a week in Diekirch, as my husband's great grandfather emigrated from there. Diekirch is also the home of an incredible World War II museum. As a history enthusiast, you could easily spend a day there. But we wished we had stayed in Ettelbruck, as it is a transportation hub as well as a charming village. If you're not aware, all trains and buses in Luxembourg are free. We too were traveling without a car, so we enjoyed visiting the Family of Man exhibit, in permanent exhibition in Clervaux, as well as the castle in Vianden.

From there, another easy train to Boppard in Germany, timed specifically for a Rhein in Flames fireworks display. A memorable sight. It's scheduled for Oberwesel on Sept 14 and St. Goar (where we watched) on Sept 21. Also from Boppard we took a "Rhine cruise" on a ferry from Bingen back to Boppard. We saw the castle at Marksburg. Visited a wine fest on the Moselle. Great week.

Then it was on to Amsterdam for a week, with day trips from there.

This was one of our best trips ever, with lots to see and do and experience.

Posted by
14509 posts

If your interest in history is such to justify visiting more esoteric sites, depending on your time factor, then I would recommend Mons.

When I did an afternoon trip to Maubeuge from Paris this trip, I was surprised (pleasantly ) to see the distance to Mons from Maubeuge was certainly very doable, ie a day trip from Maubeuge to Mons.

Go back to Waterloo. See how it has been expanded ie, the relevant sites for the bicentennial in 2015

Posted by
763 posts

I'm definitely sold on Leiden. That's exactly the kind of lead I was hoping for. Thank you! All the other are great too and we will continue to investigate. I had not heard of Mons, but it looks very interesting. As for Amsterdam, I was hinting at our skepticism with my whole "massive crowds, nightlife, lager louts..." line. But keeping an open mind. Looking forward to more suggestions.

Posted by
345 posts

I was in Amsterdam this past October and did not encounter what I would consider massive crowds or any of the other things you want to avoid. Sure, the Anne Frank and Van Gogh museums were at capacity during the time slots I booked but not too crowded to enjoy.

Antwerp might tick all your boxes for another base in Belgium.

Posted by
763 posts

Another round of thanks for the additional responses.

FYI, I've started another thread as an extension of this one. Basically I'm asking about one of the four weeks being dedicated to Wallonia. Fred's recommendation of Mons got me looking at other places like Dinant and Namur.

If you have thoughts on a week in Wallonia, please chime in here or on that thread. Thanks again!

Posted by
14509 posts

Absolutely. Within the context of Mons, I would suggest Namur and Dinant too, as well the cultural reasons attached to those 2 cities.