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One More Mini Trip Report: Four+ Days in Leiden, and One Night at a Schiphol Hotel

Travel and arrival day, Thursday. The final leg of our recent fall trip took us to Leiden, perhaps Stan’s favorite city in Europe. We were coming from Paris, and had tickets on the Thalys. The plan was to go directly to Rotterdam, then take a local train from Rotterdam to Leiden. We would be arriving in R-dam by about 3:00, and figured we’d be walking into our hotel by 4:00 or so.

Or not. We took the metro from our hotel to Gare du Nord, and arrived early, figuring we’d find a sandwich and some wine to take on the train, then sit in the waiting area and have a cup of coffee while waiting for our train. The sandwich and wine part worked, but we could not find a single place to sit while we waited the hour or so for our departure. This became more of an issue after we noticed that that our train, which had been marked as “on time” the whole time we had been there, was now marked 30 minutes late. Stan by then had found us a place to sit, where I could stare at the departures board. Oh no, now it’s showing 1 hour late. No, an hour and a half. Oh, wait, it’s been cancelled??? At that point, I downloaded the Thalys app on my phone, and according to the app, our train was on time, and due to leave within about 5 or 6 minutes. What? A garbled announcement came over the loudspeaker; I caught something about “Amsterdam Centraal on platform X,” and most of the people who had been sitting around us jumped up and grabbed their bags, running toward the platform.

So we followed them. Sure enough, our train was at the platform. But the car with our reserved seats wasn’t. Quite a few of us gathered around the only Thalys employee we could see, who said “Get on the train. You won’t have seats, but get on the train.” Well, we did. A conductor who saw us told us to go to the bar car, stand and wait. So we did. It turns out that someone had committed suicide on the train line past Brussels, so only enough cars were on the train to accommodate those people who had tickets to Brussels. The conductor tried to soothe us: “Don’t worry; we’ll take care of you.”

And they did. We left Paris about an hour late, but about 30 minutes out of Brussels came the announcement that those people who were going on to Rotterdam or Amsterdam should get off in Brussels, and another train would be arranged for us. Well, we had to get off in Brussels; the train we were on obviously wasn’t going any farther. Another announcement just before we arrived said we were to stay on the same platform, but keep walking toward the station, and our train would be there. And it was.

Another conductor greeted us, and when I asked what seats we should take, she said “Whatever seat is shown on your ticket.” So we climbed into a completely empty car, and found our seats. Little by little people trickled in, filling about half the seats. We recognized most of them; most of us had all been crammed into the bar car together. But the train didn’t leave the station. It turned out that they were waiting for another train that had left from Paris after ours did, with the people who hadn’t heard that the train wasn’t cancelled after all, or who didn’t believe it. That other train did pull in, and the rest of the seats in our car filled immediately. I must say that this second group of people was not as well behaved as we had been. There was a lot of grumbling, and some nasty language. (In English.)

But finally, our train pulled out of the station, and we arrived in Rotterdam safe and sound, but stressed and almost 2 hours late. We did, however, figure out how to get a ticket to Leiden from there, and caught a train (in spite of the clerk in the station having given us the wrong information.)

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Once in Leiden, it was an easy 15 minute walk to our hotel, the City Hotel Nieuw Minerva, Boommarkt 23. We had stayed here before, in 2018, and knew we liked it. I did post a review of it, here:
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/netherlands-reviews/city-hotel-nieuw-minerva-leiden-the-netherlands
If anything, we enjoyed it even more this time.

By the time we arrived, it was late evening, rainy, and we were very tired, as well as hungry. We dropped off our bags, and headed out to find something to eat. The eateries closest to the hotel all looked crowded, but I remember having passed a couple of likely places on our walk to the hotel. So we headed back toward the train station, and after considering (and rejecting) a couple of restaurants, ducked into De Bruine Boon, Stationsweg 1. There was plenty of room outside, but we were cold by then and tried our luck indoors, where the very helpful staff found us a table. They hesitated to offer it, thinking we wouldn’t like a hightop, but we actually prefer those.

We had a great time and a good dinner. The Bruine Boon is evidently popular with groups; we sat near one group of 10 people, and another of about 8, all celebrating various life events. The food was good; I had a delicious and huge salad, and Stan had quite good salmon. The wine and coffee were very good, and Stan’s dessert, apple pie, was excellent. As was our server; she was efficient, competent, and good humored under what had to have been trying (i.e. crowded and noisy) conditions. After dinner we went right back to the hotel for showers and bed. What a long, tiring day.

First full day, Friday. We made a big change here. We had tickets for an early entry to the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam to see the “Van Gogh along the Seine” exhibit. This is the same exhibit that JenS from the Forum had seen in Chicago (although with a different name, “Van Gogh and the Avant-garde: The Modern Landscape”) and raved about. It was to open in Amsterdam the day after our arrival, so I booked tickets as soon as I could.

Well, I woke up in the middle of the night, and realized that 1) in order to make our entry time we would probably have to leave the hotel no later than 8:00, preferably earlier, and 2)after our long, stressful, and tiring travel day yesterday, we were not going to be in the best shape and or mood. (Not everyone in our group is an early riser, or happy about making excursions when we’re not sure exactly how to get where we’re going.) So as much as I wanted to see the exhibit, I decided we would be better served by canceling, and spending an easier day in Leiden. And after all, we had just seen another Van Gogh exhibit in Paris that was not in our original plans. (https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/mini-trip-report-four-days-in-paris-october-2023)

When I suggested that to Stan at a decent hour later that morning (still early enough to leave, should we so decide,) he said “Oh, thank you” and went back to sleep for 2 more hours.

We did eventually make it down to breakfast, then back up to the room to study the city map and plan for the day. We decided the American Pilgrim Museum, at Beschuitsteeg 9, sounded interesting. And indeed it was, although the name of the museum is somewhat misleading. The tiny museum has two rooms, one of which is furnished as it would have been during the time of the Pilgrims; the other is a step back into medieval times. The number of visitors at any one time is limited, so reservations are essential. Luckily, we were able to make reservations for that same afternoon.

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Day one, continued. We were among a total of 6 visitors, who, along with our museum guide, pretty much filled the space. We were urged to wander around to look at everything, but had to be careful to not step on each other. One of the people in our cohort was a descendant of one of the Pilgrims, and was actually able to find out some information about his great-great-etc.-grandfather’s wives that he didn’t know.

Our museum guide Sara, who is studying the history of that era, said it isn’t usual that people get their questions answered so easily, but was of course delighted that it happened this time.

Both areas of the museum are beautifully arranged, and Sara was able to explain all the exhibits and answer all our questions. We enjoyed the visit and can recommend this museum, but it’s only opened a few days a week, and only for a few hours on each of those days, so check their website before showing up, https://leidenamericanpilgrimmuseum.org/en

After our visit we just explored a while, wandering around pretty much randomly. It started raining about dark, so we headed back to our hotel neighborhood, and found dinner at the Stadsbrouwhuis brewpub, just across a tiny lane from our hotel, at Aalmarkt 1-3. Stan had some very good fish and chips, and I had good grilled sausages. We both enjoyed the beer, expecially the Triple.

Day two, Saturday. Market day! The Saturday market in Leiden extends for blocks down our street, spilling over onto the bridges, and even has some booths on the other side of the canal. Luckily the rain of the previous couple of days was gone; it was quite chilly, but the sun was shining and the streets were full of people. The market has everything imaginable. There are booths with meats, fish, cheeses, vegetables, linens, clothing, as well as hot foods for snacks or carry out. We also popped into a couple of chocolate shops, to buy gifts for the folks back home. (Ever since our trip to Belgium about 10 years ago, that’s all people want us to bring back: chocolate!)

After dropping our purchases off at the hotel, we went to a different part of town, but still within walking distance of our hotel, to visit the Rijksmuseum van Oudheden, the national archeological museum of the Netherlands, Rapenburg 28. In English, it’s known as the National Museum of Antiquities. We were particularly interested in seeing their special exhibit on life in the year 1000. That was good, but the rest of the museum was even better, with rooms of artifacts from ancient Greece, Rome, Egypt, and the Near East. The exhibits were thoughtfully laid out, with excellent detailed descriptions and explanations. Very well done.

For dinner we had made reservations at Visrestaurant Crabbetje, Sint Aagtenstraat 5. This had been our splurge dinner when we were in Leiden five years ago, and we thought we’d try it again. As before, the food was excellent. (It’s still a splurge, lol.) I started with wakame soup with tiny shrimps, and had the chef’s special, with two kinds of fish, potatoes, and vegetables. The two pieces of fish (sea bream and one whose name I missed) were each big enough to be a single main course, and were cooked very well. I assumed a tiny tasting menu, and ended up regretting the soup, although it, too, was delicious. Stan had an excellent tuna steak with black pasta. He said the tuna was one of the best he had ever had, reminding him of why he liked it. We had wine, of course, and Stan finished with a brownie and ice cream dessert. A great end to a very nice day.

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Day three, Sunday. I got up early to have breakfast before going to church; Stan took the opportunity to sleep in a bit. The hotel provides a late breakfast on weekends, so that worked well. When I finally got back (n.b.: most of the church services I attended on this trip were much longer than ours at home, well over an hour.) we headed to a totally different neighborhood to visit the Weaver’s House Museum, Middelstegracht 143.

This wasn’t at all what we expected. Having seen the Pilgrim’s Museum, we thought the Weaver’s House would be furnished and outfitted as though lived in by a family of weavers in the 19th century or earlier. Well, the house had been lived in by weavers, but it’s now pretty much just an empty building. There is a loom set up in the front room, but that’s it in terms of period furnishing. However, there are some lovely and interesting contemporary fiber art displays, and some fiber artists there to answer questions. It was indeed interesting, and we’re glad we went.

We found lunch at a self-service sandwich shop – BackWerk, Haarlemmerstraat 139. What a find! The sandwiches are delicious, and the food and drinks are extremely cheap. We had two small sandwiches, a bottle of water, and two cups of coffee for €11. The sandwiches were tasty; one was tomato and brie on ciabatta, the other was especially good: spinach and cheese on some kind of crispy sesame pastry. We wished we had found this sooner.

We spent the rest of the afternoon at the Lakenhal Museum, Oude Singel 32. This is a wonderful museum. It’s billed as depicting the history of the cloth industry in Leiden, which it does wonderfully. You learn not only how the cloth was made, but how it was prepared for export and marketed. The emphasis is on the importance of this industry to the development of the city of Leiden, but there are plenty of fascinating details on the life of the ordinary people, the ones who did the physical labor involved.

There is also a wonderful section of fine art, with some surprising works by a very young Rembrandt (a home town boy,) as well as many of his contemporaries. We enjoyed this museum much more than we thought we would. Highly recommended.

We had time before our dinner reservation, so dropped into a neighborhood coffee house, where we enjoyed watching families out for the day with their children. Dinner was at Fratelli, Lange Mare 112. This is a great, family run Italian restaurant. It’s another one that we had tried five years ago, and were glad to find it still open, still at the same location, although the outdoor dining area we remembered seems to have been taken over by bicycle parking.

The food was as good as we remembered. Stan had branzino, and I had trofie pasta with walnut sauce. We shared a bottle of Sicilian white wine, and coffee. The portions were huge, so large that Stan passed on dessert! We ambled back to our hotel, enjoying our last relaxing night here.

Day four, Monday. Got up and packed, then went to breakfast, taking our time; it’s our last morning here. Check out time, leaving our luggage The hotel had told us we could leave our luggage for as long as we wanted, which will make the rest of the day easier. They had also told us we could feel free to come and go, using the lounge, bathrooms, and even the computer. How nice that was!

Our main excursion today was to the Volkenkunde Museum, the National Museum of Ethnology, Steenstraat 1. It’s also part of the consortium Wereldmuseum. This is a large museum, with ethnographic artifacts from Japan, Indonesia, Africa, Oceania, and more. The exhibits are beautifully displayed, but poorly described. A favorite is a film showing how students from Leiden, with the help of Maori, built and sailed a Maori-type canoe. This required learning and understanding not also the construction techniques, but also the history and ritual and spiritual aspect of the work.

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Day four, continued: We grabbed a quick lunch at the museum café, then left to spend time just wandering the city. We landed at a wine bar just across the canal from our hotel, Proeflocaal 1574, Apothekersdijk 38. It’s funny, we had of course noticed this place, but it was always packed, so we hadn’t tried it. Mistake! The staff was great, the prices were much more reasonable than we had expected, and we had a lovely local cider recommended by our host. We’re definitely bookmarking this place for next time. We considered staying for dinner, but we had reservations at Fratelli again, and didn’t want to cancel at the last minute.

Dinner was great. This time I asked about getting a half portion of pasta; the server said she’d check with “the boss,” but she smiled approval. I had great spinach and ricotta ravioli with truffle sauce, and a salad. Stan opted for a seafood pizza, which was also good. By now it was time to pick up our bags and head to the train station. Next stop: Schiphol Airport.

Last night, Mercure Hotel Schiphol. The train to Schiphol from Leiden is a breeze. We didn’t need tickets, tapping in at Leiden Centraal and out at the airport train station. It took longer to find the hotel once we had arrived, than we spent on the trip there, only 15 minutes from Leiden to Schiphol.

The hotel was past security and passport control, a plus for an early morning flight, and we had been warned it was difficult to find. Security was a snap, with almost no other travelers there that time of night. Having cleared security and passport control, we kept walking, following elusive signs. It was spooky being in that normally bustling airport just before the shops closed. We did, however, find the hotel, and checked in. Our room was very small, but laid out efficiently. There was a built-in desk and a tiny closet. The en suite bathroom was also designed for space-saving efficiency.

I will say that the beds may have been the most comfortable we encountered on our entire trip. I thought, uh-oh, that’s going to make it harder to get up in time, but all was well. We had left a wake-up call, which was actually a real person from the hotel desk, not a recording. I was very impressed. We dressed, repacked some of our bags, then checked out, ready to find breakfast and wait for our flight home.

Comments, observations. We had a wonderful time. We made a point of seeing some places we hadn’t seen on our previous visit, but also revisiting a few, including the Ethnographic Museum, the Burcht, and a couple of favorite restaurants.

Our only complaint was the bicycles. They were absolutely everywhere. The rules for riding don’t seem to have been codified yet, as they are in Amsterdam, for example. There was a definite libertarian feel air about the cyclists in Leiden, and it didn’t help that the bike paths were not as well defined as they should have been.

One odd thing this time, it seemed like more people in stores and restaurants were likely to greet us in Dutch. Perhaps we only noticed it because we weren’t as prepared for it. When we were here in 2018, we had spent more time getting comfortable with simple Dutch phrases than we did this time. We were embarrassed a few times at our slow or nonexistent responses.

But it was a wonderful visit; I’ll be very surprised if we don’t go back another time.

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This is delightful, Jane, thank you! Leiden is just wonderful.

I learned about the Pilgrim museum from this travel forum and it was an unforgettable experience. The owner is a collector of rare antique books, and on the day we went, he had just received a new purchase, which we were allowed to see. It was a very old book of days, describing each day's events from the birth of Jesus on to the 1700s when it was printed. I was amazed we were allowed to turn the pages. I tried to find the entry for the day in October, year 79 CE, when Vesuvius erupted, but couldn't figure out their dating system and was too afraid to turn many pages. But it's absolutely the oldest man-made item I've ever touched and it was so precious.

I was sad to see the Hudson Bay dept stores close in the Netherlands. The one in Leiden had an outstanding restaurant on its top floor, with a great view.

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Jane, this is a wonderful trip report! I enjoyed staying at Leiden but it was just a quick afternoon/overnight to give myself a day buffer between switching airline companies coming back from Dubrovnik. I would like to stay in Leiden again since it’s so handy to the airport and spend more time exploring the museums that you mentioned and trying more restaurants. Bookmarking this - thanks!

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Jane, I love your trip report! I had to laugh when I read about your first train incident, though, as it brought back memories of some of my trains in the past that arrived late or not at all. In fact, the same thing happened to me in Edinburgh when someone threw themselves across the tracks, and the train I had booked was cancelled.

But at any rate, you brought Leiden back to life for me. I definitely plan to save this report for my next trip to Leiden -- such excellent reporting! I loved your thoughts on the Rijksmuseum van Oudheden, which I did visit on my day trip 5 years ago. But I did not see the other museums, which I will rectify next time. 😊 The Pilgrim museum sounds fascinating, and I love anything about fiber arts, so that will be a must see.

This makes me want to bump the Netherlands up to the top of my list (sigh).

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Mary, because it's such a great place to visit! It feels much smaller than it is, but with plenty of interesting bars and restaurants, a great market (twice a week, I think,) and an array of wonderful museums. And canals! And friendly locals! And easy transportation to Amsterdam, Delft, the Hague... It's really ideal for anything from 2 or 3 days, to a week or more.

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And thanks everyone else for your comments; it is interesting how popular Leiden is, and what good memories we all have of it.

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Thanks for this trip report and all the others you’ve posted along the way. I’m going on the Eastern France tour in Oct so I have that tr bookmarked and just reread it this weekend. I’m trying to figure how long to stay in Aix, hotels, flights etc.

But I really am also planning a return trip to the Netherlands and Leiden sounds so inviting and would be a good spot to be to do day trips down to The Hague and Ghent, yes? Do you have any trip reports from those places/Rotterdam? I would love a link or date if so.

I’m really impressed with how long you travel when you double up on tours and throw in a couple of side trips as well. I travel solo and realized 3 weeks is my time limit before I need to be back to husband and hearth. I just did the Prague Budapest tour with extra days in both and then a week solo in Vienna. It was great but I was ready to be back at the end.

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Oh, Jane! Thanks so much for the finish-upper trip report,lol!! Leiden sounds wonderful and had been on my radar both from your prior experience and Jean's recent time as well. You know I'm a museum-hound and these sound awesome.

Yikes to the train journey. The first-timers who want to take a train on the day their flights leave from wherever probably won't read your TR but this,this, this, is why allowing extra time is crucial. I'm glad you all made it even though it was late.

Yum to all the good food you had as well. I love that Stan gets dessert every night!

Thank you so much for posting!

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When we visited Amsterdam last year, my husband said “I could live here.” A longer trip to the Netherlands and Belgium is definitely in our not too distant future! Adding Leiden for sure, if it’s good enough for Stan, then its good enough for us! Thanks for another excellent TR!

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Tammy, I just read your comment to Stan. He laughed, then added "It was cold, it was damp, and I still liked it!"

Lyndash, a day trip to The Hague is very easy; we did that when we were there in 2018. I'm not sure about Ghent, though. It looks like it's close to 3 hours on the train or driving, 2 1/2 maybe.

Taking longer trips is a fairly recent move for us. It is tiring, but we like it. And we usually can manage to get away for 2 weeks or so only once a year. Doubling the length of a trip is more doable for us than 2 shorter trips. And since Stan is with me, all I really miss about home is my cooking! Not enough to rent an apartment though. We spent time living in Europe decades ago, and I know how much more time consuming cooking is away from home. And I'm on vacation!

Pam, I think you would love it. It's not Paris, but really, what is? I think you with your great attitude, curiosity, and willingness to "go with the flow," would do quite well there.

Tammy, as well. All of you who commented. It's a great place to spend some time. Mardee and Jean already know this.