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17 days in May in England and North Wales

My husband and I will be traveling to England and Wales for 17 days in a few weeks to celebrate our thirtieth anniversary. We have just a few questions left before we wrap up plans.

We travel light, so moving around is OK, but we’d like to have a few bases for 3-4 nights, except our first night and in Oxford (we’ve already been there and this time will be to catch what we missed and just wandering around), so we’re not constantly on the go from one city to another. Most of our time will be sightseeing, museums, gardens, castles, world’s fastest zip-lining for the first time! and enjoying new (to us) restaurants and pubs. Last time around was with family for two weeks, including a wedding and we tried to do too much. This will be a more leisurely time, walking, but no hiking - sore knees. We won’t have a car and will rely on public transportation and taxis or ride shares as needed. Our senior Rail Cards have been purchased.

We’re still reading through Rick Steves’ “Great Britain,” are following some suggestions, and we’re thinking of this route after arriving at Heathrow on a Tuesday morning:

  • Day 1: Lunch in London, then train to Canterbury or Seaford with an afternoon trip to see the Cliffs of Dover and Seven Sisters.
  • Where would you spend the night, including dinner - Canterbury or Seaford, before heading to Bath the next day?

  • Day 2-4: Bath (3 nights) - will spend a day walking around Bath, Day trip to Windsor, Stonehenge and Avebury, or Windsor one day and then Stonehenge and Avebury the next and relax in Bath in the evenings.

  • Day 5-8: Llandudno (4 nights). Eager to go back to the little Fish Tram Chips after a run up the Orme. The view of Llandudno Pier is lovely and we like the little shops and restaurants there. We’re considering staying at either the Wildings Hotel in Llandudno and doing day trips over Snowdonia by tram, Zip World at Penrhyn Quarry, Betws y Coed, Swallow Falls, Bodnant, etc.

  • Or, since we’ve already stayed in Llandudno, staying instead at the inn, Tyn y Coed inside Snowdonia National Park this time and doing day trips out into Llandudno, Conwy, etc. Tyn y Coed has good reviews and is also much less expensive than the hotels in Llandudno. Have looked at Sykes Cottages, as someone in this forum has suggested, with laundry facilities. We’ve been to Conwy Castle and the town. Wouldn’t mind wandering the town and shops again. Is there much more to see in Conwy after you’ve been through Conwy castle?

  • Could split time between Llandudno and Tyn y Coed, but would it be better to stay in one place and do day trips out?

  • Should we get the CADW pass?

  • Maybe a brief stop in Chester for a few hours and lunch.

  • Do we need a night in Chester?

  • What would we do with our carry-on luggage?

  • Day 10-11: Oxford for (2 nights)

  • Day 12-17: Finally, London for the rest of our stay (6 nights) to take in museums, galleries, a few shows and maybe catch the last day of the Chelsea Garden Show.

We did think about including the Lake District and/or South Wales, but it feels hectic and we’d prefer to spend more time in fewer places this time around.

If you would suggest a different route, have favorite places to visit, stay or eat, please do share. Insights and suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance.

Posted by
803 posts

"maybe catch the last day of the Chelsea Garden Show"

If you want to see the Chelsea Flower Show, my advice is to book soon, as it does normally sell out, even the last day.

Posted by
9465 posts

Personally I think Day 1 is seriously pushing yourselves after the flight and is in the wrong direction. I would do is as a day trip from London.
Windsor is also an odd day trip from Bath.
I would suggest Windsor on Day 1, thence to Bath.

I'm really surprised that Tyn y Coed is cheaper than Llandudno, which latter is a budget friendly place. However taking that as a given I will go out on a limb for this forum and say that Capel Curig is far more quintessentially North Wales to me than Llandudno, much as I love the town.
For an anniversary I personally take that as the preferred choice.

I would say that a night in Chester, while not essential, is a very good idea. Experience the city after the day trippers. Especially if you can get a nice central hotel like the Grosvenor - I may be wrong but I shudder to think of their prices. For a special occasion maybe worth it
Probably the Queen Best Western (opposite the Station) or The Mill (canalside) are more affordable treats.

Posted by
36 posts

The Tyn y Coed pub / inn is in a lovely location but you will be entirely dependant on buses to explore more, and that is the only dining option in Capel Curig now.

I would consider Llandudno / Conwy OR Betws-y-Coed (or nearby Llanrwst / Trefriw) instead - lots more accommodation options, pubs, restaurants but still surrounded by beautiful scenery, plus you can get there by train or bus (from Llandudno Junction) and further explore by the same train or buses. Everything is day trippable from one base which would be more relaxing for you.

Llandudno is an easy day trip from Betws-y-Coed and the Conwy Valley (as is Conwy), and you can get deeper into the national park to say Penrhyn Quarry, Beddgelert or Llanberis using buses. Taxis in this area are rare and expensive!

Conwy is still lovely and definitely worth returning to - you can see it all in half a day but it is a good place to base yourself given the good transport links from both there and nearby Llandudno Junction (a short walk away).

The CADW pass is great value if you are doing more than a few castles.

Chester is nice but you can easily explore the compact city centre in half a day. There is left luggage at the Premier Inn in the city centre, not far from the station.

Posted by
9465 posts

Just thinking. With this itinerary it would have been more cost efficient, flexible and easier to buy a Brit Rail England pass than railcards and tickets- probably using specific trains with Advance Tickets.
I'm doing something similar this week on the domestic equivalent and the pass is worth it's weight in gold.

Posted by
7665 posts

Because of the sites we visited, we purchased the CADW pass. We also had a rental car that made getting to some of the sites much easier and we changed lodging locations more frequently than you’d prefer.

Posted by
4865 posts

I agree with going to Windsor the day you arrive and would spend the night there rather than traveling elsewhere on a day when you will likely be quite tired.

Posted by
2618 posts

Definitely agree with the advice to do Windsor on day 1.

CADW pass - identify what you want to see that is covered by the pass and then do the maths. As you are only planning on 4 days in Wales, it may not be worth it and I can't see where you are visiting to make use of it...

If you have the time, then an overnight in Chester is well worthwhile as there is a lot to see and do in the city.

Posted by
3 posts

Thank you for all your kind suggestions.
We've scrubbed seeing the cliffs on Day 1. That was... crazy.

Unfortunately, Day 1 would put us in Windsor on Tuesday morning, but Windsor Castle is only open Thursday through Monday, so we'll catch Windsor on our way back to London.

We'll start in Bath, do a stone circles day trip on Day 2, and maybe Kennet Long Barrow if we have time. The rest of our time in Bath will just be wandering around. We might join a walking tour here or there.

Llandudno is a special place for us, and it will be a good base for our day trips. We've found a lovely apartment near the pier with a beautiful view of the Orme. Will spend 4 nights there.

I love the suggestion for The Grosvenor as a splurge in Chester. Would you stop overnight in Chester on the way to Llandudno, or between Llandudno and Oxford?

We might spend one day revisiting Blenheim Palace from Oxford.

Considering a stop at Windsor Castle on our way back to London, or make it a day trip once we get back to London.

We'll have a full week in London to see all the sights at a more leisurely pace and still have time to do a day trip to visit family in Surrey and points south to see the cliffs.

Posted by
9465 posts

I would do Chester on the way to Oxford. That journey is Chester to Birmingham every two hours, change, Birmingham to Oxford every half hour.

BTW there is a free bus, route 40, every 15 minutes from Chester City Centre to Railway station.

On the way to Llandudno I would add in Cardiff for the day. Then, as this is an Anniversary, book 1st class on the early evening (1650 I believe) Cardiff to Holyhead train as far as Llandudno Junction. That train conveys a restaurant car with very good meals for a steal of a price.
Currently they even have a special menu designed by a Michelin started chef, not sure how long that lasts for.
Even in standard class you get freshly cooked take back to seat food.

Or just have another half day in Bath and join that train at Newport (Gwent).

Posted by
2756 posts

I also think it is a good idea to have at least a night in Cardiff. Travelling from Bath to north Wales, you would have to change at nearby Newport in anycase. Direct trains go from Cardiff to Llandudno Junction usually every other hour. The 17.22 departure from Cardiff (on weekdays) is the one with the restaurant car for 1st class passengers.

If you had enough time in Cardiff - this place on the western edge of the city is well worth seeing:>
https://www.visitwales.com/attraction/museum/st-fagans-national-museum-history-527739

Also see Cardiff Castle in the centre of the city.https://www.cardiffcastle.com

Posted by
3 posts

Thank you for these lovely thoughtful ideas for our itinerary. I am much obliged.

Posted by
8391 posts

Hi, congratulations on your wedding anniversary! We celebrated our 45th in that area and thoroughly enjoyed our time together there!

I’m waiting at an airport so don’t have time to read others’ responses, but here’s the trip report. If I was planning it again, I wouldn’t change anything. We liked Chester. I had a reservation initially at Llongallon but switched it to Conwy. I see you’ve already been at Conwy, so I would choose Chester for you. Also, we really were glad we went to York. It was one of many highlights.

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/june-2023-england-wales-trip-report