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Warsaw and Krakow, whirlwind intro to Poland. Sept 2026

This report focuses on the places visited while on an Essentials Tour with Gate 1 which I used to extend my trip through the Baltics. The tour experience trip report is located here. https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/general-europe/tour-review-gate-1-essentials-poland

I flew into Warsaw from Vilnius on LOT Polish airlines. I took the train from the airport to the Central Train Station (cost $1.40) and then walked less than 5 minutes to my hotel, The Intercontinental Hotel by IHG. This hotel is a prototype for an American Business 5 star hotel. There is absolutely nothing personal or charming about it. However, my room was very nice with a great view, the location quite convenient for services and transportation, and the included breakfasts amazing. This was the tour hotel. I noticed the Mercure Hotel was just 1 block away and 2/3 of the price. I made a mental note about it for future trips.

The first day I took a 3 hour “introduction to Warsaw tour” that I signed up for through the Costco/Viator portal. It included hotel pickup, a driving tour of key areas, a long and enjoyable stroll through Lazienki Park, and walking tours through former Jewish Ghetto and Old Town. It ended in Old Town at noon where I ate lunch and then toured the Marie Curie Museum on its free day. There were just 6 of us on the tour and I felt I learned quite a bit. Cost was $50.

Warsaw public transport is excellent and easy to use. I found their app great for buying tickets on the go. The first time I took it I struggled to find the QR code for validation until I finally looked up and found it over the door of the tram. Metro gates have the QR code to the side. More neighborhood walking followed.

The following day I took a “Introduction to Warsaw” walking tour provided as part of my tour. Some parts were the same as the day before but they were enough different that I felt it was time well spent. The afternoon was a tour to Wilanow Palace. I noticed public transport stops at the place where we exited the tour bus so it would be easy to get here privately. It really paid off having a tour guide for the Palace. So much to learn and appreciate that would be hard to get on your own.

The next day was completely independent. I left for the POLIN museum so that I would get there right at opening since it was a free day and I anticipated large numbers. The strategy worked well. I picked up the free audio guide and explored this incredible museum without any large crowds. The museum uses a variety of creative methods and interactive approaches to tell 1000 years of Jewish history. I felt it was one of the better museums I have gone to and I have been to quite a few.

That afternoon I found out where the free day crowds had gone, The Warsaw Rising Museum. I got my free ticket, discovered they were out of audio guides, and joined a long line waiting for admission. I reminded myself I had waited in bigger lines at Disneyland. It really wasn’t that bad and 15 minutes later I was admitted to the museum. The exhibits all have English version interpretive signs. The large number of people made it a little hard to appreciate, but I did learn a great deal about this event in Polish history. A highlight was actual footage shot by war correspondents at the time of the Uprising shown in their theater.

The following day was “moving day” as we traveled by tour bus from Warsaw to Krakow. We made a stop at the Jasna Góra Monastery for a tour on the way. This site is considered a major pilgrimage location and holds a special place in Poland’s Catholic heritage. We at lunch at “The Pilgrim’s Bar.” Basically a cafeteria with hearty homemade food featuring Pope Cake. This was thought to be a favorite of Pope John Paul, one of Poland’s heroes.

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Trip report continued.

We checked into our Krakow Hotel, Vienna House Andels. Great location just outside Old Town, next to the train station and a large shopping mall. Trams and buses stop outside, but Old Town is really walkable from the hotel. That evening was an optional event, A Polish Folk music/dancing dinner. It was a blast. Traditional Polish foods, music, dancing made for a lively event. Audience participation was encouraged.

Our first full day began with a three hour walking tour that included several neighborhoods, the Cathedral and Castle, and exploring Old Town. It ended watching the Krakow trumpeter performing his duties from the tower.

The afternoon was a trip to Auschwitz Birkenau. I’ll be honest, this is a difficult location to visit. The scope of the evil that took place here is hard to comprehend. Yet, it is so important to remember even if it is painful. No one will ever leave here saying “they enjoyed the visit.” They will leave sobered and hurting for the over 1 million people murdered in a program of extermination here. We must never forget, never repeat.

The next day was quite a bit lighter in it started with a visit to the Weiliczka Salt Mine. This mine was one of the original 12 UNESCO World Heritage Sites. It is not for the mobility challenged as it involves around 800 stairs down into the 3 levels of the mine that were visited. There is a slightly terrifying elevator ride up. The history, geology and amazing rooms/sculptures on this tour were so unexpected. This was enjoyed by all.

The afternoon was independent sightseeing. Some chose various museums. I confess I chose a walk and a nap. Three and a half weeks of travel meant a break was needed!

I traveled back to Seattle the following day on Finn Air. Krakow to Helsinki and then Helsinki to Seattle nonstop. My first flight was delayed so when we arrived in Helsinki I had just 25 minutes before the gate closed to go through passport control and make it to the other end of the airport. I made it in 16 minutes! Helsinki passport control was busier then I have ever seen it, but I went immediately to the short connections line and was sent to the first available officer.

I enjoyed this intro to Poland.

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I too loved the Marie Curie Museum and the POLIN Museum, excellent and absorbing!

If you return to Poland, Gdańsk is worthy of 3 days with its World War II Museum, St. Mary’s Cathedral as well as Solidarity Museum! Polish history has multiple facets and Gdańsk is essential to understanding them.

I enjoyed your trip report.

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2203 posts

Thanks Carol, for the trip report with separate info about the actual tour. Sounds like a great intro and I was intrigued it worked out cheaper than if you'd put it together yourself. Though I also would have gone for a 3-star hotel and made it quite a bit cheaper, but hey, they made all those arrangements so maybe someday you will go back. That comment about waiting longer at Disneyland really cracked me up! SO true. And I would so rather be waiting in line in the Warsaw Rising Museum....

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3122 posts

I just got back from Krakow, Carol, and enjoyed reading your TR. I need to get started on mine.

Vienna House Andels

I smiled reading this. I walked by it many times and can picture it clearly. Great location.

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941 posts

Carol now retired - I enjoyed reading your report and learning a bit more about Warsaw, which I didn't have time to visit.
I was in Krakow a couple of weeks ago and my hotel was just across the street from yours! I really liked that location.
The heaviness of Auschwitz stays with you long after you left. As you said well, so glad I paid my respects and saw it. I did the longer tour and I was mentally and physically exhausted afterward but felt guilt to even complain about it.
I had limited time so I didn't visit the Salt Mines, maybe for a next trip. I so enjoyed walking around Krakow, I think you made the right choice for that free afternoon.

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JudyB - I initially had Gdańsk on my itinerary but had to drop it because I wouldn't have enough time to visit. I plan to visit when I go (time TBD) to the Baltic countries.

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Thank you, Carol, for your trip report. I was in Poland last summer and enjoyed my trip immensely. The POLIN museum really is an extraordinary museum.

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4922 posts

Ah yes... the Intercontinental Hotel. The young adult likes to tell the story of how we sneaked to the top floor during our time in Warsaw. The trip to the top requires a guest key for the elevator. Through a combination of trailing guests onto elevators... splitting up... taking fire escape stairs... and generally acting like we belonged... we made it to the top floor.

Nice report. I like Warsaw quite a bit and Krakow even more.

We went to the Warsaw Rising Museum on free ticket day, too. Utter chaos.

After Auschwitz, I have no need to ever go to another concentration camp.

Poland is a country to which I definitely want to return. There is so much to see and so many places to visit.