Continued from Part 3 - Aeropoli because I'm too verbose...
Kythera - 4 nights
We absolutely loved it here. It's very untouristy, wild, and beautiful. I chose to stay in Kapsali for the beach and the services. We stayed at Aphrodite Apartments (https://www.hotel-afrodite.gr/en/hom/) which was completely perfect and our host Yiannis was wonderful. Our timing was off here though as we arrived on Sunday September 29 and many restaurants were closing the day after, including our favorite discovered that day, Kapari. The restaurants remaining in Kapsali had limited menus because they were closing down within the next 1-2 weeks and so weren't stocking much. I had wanted to take a boat tour with Captain Spiro's here but the wind was too much and he wasn't running. In some of the small towns like Chora and Avlemonas there was only 1 cafe or taverna open. We ended up driving to Livadi for dinner our last 2 nights there because of the limited selection in Kapsali. I still preferred the beach there to anything tho. I am very glad we went to Kythera but I wish we had gone even 1 week earlier.
Hiking is off the charts here, so much opportunity. Recommend this site for hiking info: https://kytheratrails.gr/
We hiked the M1 loop around Chora. We set out from Kapsali thinking we could use a local footpath from there to the trail. I absolutely don't recommend this as the footpath is very steep and uneven in places and also there's a spot where you have to climb a staircase up the cliff wall from a little beach however the bottom 4 steps are missing and it hangs over the water. We had to wade in the water, find purchase on the cliff wall, shimmy close to the stairs, and then climb up on them. It was not fun. My recommendation is to instead drive into Chora, park, then hike the actual designated M1 trail.
We also drove to Paliaochora and hiked to the ruins from the road. It's a very easy and well marked path, great views, and fascinating history. We intended to hike the Mylopotamos waterfalls, but learned that everything was dry (no falls) due to lack of rain so decided not to.
Monemvasia - 1 night
We stayed in the castle at Hotel Goulas which I absolutely do not recommend. Bed was uncomfortable, terrible service, no toilet paper in the room when we arrived and had to call someone to assist (no one onsite there). And the shower curtain rod fell down at the slightest touch and wouldn't stay back up.
1 night here was good as it's small and not a ton to explore. Loved Matoula restaurant - beautiful views, great service, and delicious food.
Links to all reports for this trip:
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/trip-report-greece-part-1-athens
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/trip-report-greece-part-2-kardamyli
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/trip-report-greece-part-5-nafplio