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Trip Report: Greece - Part 4 - Kythera and Monemvasia

Continued from Part 3 - Aeropoli because I'm too verbose...

Kythera - 4 nights
We absolutely loved it here. It's very untouristy, wild, and beautiful. I chose to stay in Kapsali for the beach and the services. We stayed at Aphrodite Apartments (https://www.hotel-afrodite.gr/en/hom/) which was completely perfect and our host Yiannis was wonderful. Our timing was off here though as we arrived on Sunday September 29 and many restaurants were closing the day after, including our favorite discovered that day, Kapari. The restaurants remaining in Kapsali had limited menus because they were closing down within the next 1-2 weeks and so weren't stocking much. I had wanted to take a boat tour with Captain Spiro's here but the wind was too much and he wasn't running. In some of the small towns like Chora and Avlemonas there was only 1 cafe or taverna open. We ended up driving to Livadi for dinner our last 2 nights there because of the limited selection in Kapsali. I still preferred the beach there to anything tho. I am very glad we went to Kythera but I wish we had gone even 1 week earlier.

Hiking is off the charts here, so much opportunity. Recommend this site for hiking info: https://kytheratrails.gr/

We hiked the M1 loop around Chora. We set out from Kapsali thinking we could use a local footpath from there to the trail. I absolutely don't recommend this as the footpath is very steep and uneven in places and also there's a spot where you have to climb a staircase up the cliff wall from a little beach however the bottom 4 steps are missing and it hangs over the water. We had to wade in the water, find purchase on the cliff wall, shimmy close to the stairs, and then climb up on them. It was not fun. My recommendation is to instead drive into Chora, park, then hike the actual designated M1 trail.

We also drove to Paliaochora and hiked to the ruins from the road. It's a very easy and well marked path, great views, and fascinating history. We intended to hike the Mylopotamos waterfalls, but learned that everything was dry (no falls) due to lack of rain so decided not to.

Monemvasia - 1 night
We stayed in the castle at Hotel Goulas which I absolutely do not recommend. Bed was uncomfortable, terrible service, no toilet paper in the room when we arrived and had to call someone to assist (no one onsite there). And the shower curtain rod fell down at the slightest touch and wouldn't stay back up.

1 night here was good as it's small and not a ton to explore. Loved Matoula restaurant - beautiful views, great service, and delicious food.

Links to all reports for this trip:
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/trip-report-greece-part-1-athens

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/trip-report-greece-part-2-kardamyli

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/trip-report-greece-part-3-aeropoli-and-mani-peninsula

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/trip-report-greece-part-4-kythera-and-monemvasia

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/trip-report-greece-part-5-nafplio

Posted by
2784 posts

I have been reading your trip reports with interest because we intend at some point to visit the Peloponnese. Do you think it was worth the trouble to go to Kythera for four nights as opposed to spending more time on the Mani peninsula? I have been leaning away from going to Kythera and am interested in your impressions.

Posted by
134 posts

I think it depends on what your interests are and reasons for visiting Greece. This was our first trip to Greece and I had a hard time planning initially because there is so much that I want to see and do there! My husband and I both love history, hiking, and food, and I love the mythology and also swimming - not lying on the beach but floating in the sea and snorkeling. I decided to focus on the Peloponnese because of the history, mythology, hiking, and food but I wanted to incorporate an island because (1) it's Greece and the islands are just such a thing to experience there but (2) the beach and swimming opportunities and (3) I knew it would force me to relax a little more because there simply isn't as much to go and see. Kythera checked all the boxes for me: (1) it's easy to get to from the Peloponnese, no need to go back to Athens to get there, (2) it ties into mythology as the birth of Aphrodite but also where Paris took Helen as the fled Sparta for Troy (I re-read the Iliad for this trip LOL), (3) there are lots of great hiking opportunities and Kythera Trails has great trails information, and (4) while there's definitely lots of history on the island with Venetian and Byzantine ruins, the sites are small and easy to get to, not all day affairs like going to Mystras, Mycenae, Epidavros and all the major ancient sites on the mainland. I am glad we went to Kythera and I loved every minute of it, I am also very glad that we stayed in Kapsali. I would definitely do it again, just wish we had gone a week earlier. But whether or not it's for you, again it really depends on what your interests are and what you want to get out of your trip.

Posted by
2784 posts

This is very helpful! This actually would be my third trip to Greece so different in that way from you. My son and wife may go with us and she has never been to Greece. So that may figure into it. I hadn't quite thought about it that way so thank you.

Posted by
2320 posts

As copperheadpdx has already said almost everything about Kythira, I will add that it is possible to take a ferry from Neapoli which is about 1 hour drive from Monemvasia (ferries are daily unlike Gythio).

Kythira has a bit of a Cycladic atmosphere, but without the crowds, beautiful hiking trails, different landscapes depending on the north or the south, quiet villages and nice beaches. We stayed there 6 full days in an Airbnb, we could have stayed 2 more days without getting bored.

Some photos

https://photos.app.goo.gl/f4KVp7qxXDFwEft67

Posted by
134 posts

I will just add that JoLui was a tremendous resource for me in planning this trip and is the one that suggested Kythera as an alternative to going back to Athens and flying or ferrying to another island. It was an easy hop from the Peloponnese, as JoLui states just 1 hour each way from Neapoli and ferries run daily. I would just make sure to go during the season because a lot of places shut down the week we arrived, so dining and shopping options were very limited.

Posted by
2784 posts

JoLui-

Would you prefer Kythera over more time on Peloponnese? Trying to figure out tradeoffs. We have been to Naxos, Santorini, Crete, and Nafplio (and area around). Was thinking could spent time deep in Mani Peninsula on the water and that would be logistically less challenging than trying to get to Kythera.

Posted by
2320 posts

BethFL,

Unfortunately I can't help you decide and I hate playing the role of influencer especially since I have very specific preferences. So I try to limit myself as much as possible to giving ideas of destinations that I know as well as practical and logistical advice.

Apparently it worked well with copperheadpdx but it was a special case because they really wanted to go to an island during a trip to the Peloponnese.

That being said I also went to the Mani region, and if I said that I could spend 2 more days in Kythira, I could also spend 2 or 3 more days in the Mani. So I would prefer more of both. :))

I imagine you will probably love Mani and the rest of the Peloponnese, if you don't have enough time to go to Kythira (at least 3 full days) and if it's not easy logistically, skip Kythira.

Posted by
2784 posts

JoLui-I agree. I would not consider unless had at least 4 nights to spend there.

I think I just need more than one trip! I had been thinking we would visit Kythera but then keep finding more things in Peloponnese.

Thanks for your insights.

Posted by
2320 posts

In case you are considering the possibility of going to Kythira, you can go there, as copperhead, from Gythio (only 2 ferries per week with Seajets) or from Neapoli with the F/B Porfyrousa of Tritton ferries (daily ferry)

https://tritonferries.gr/en/

If you are planning to go to Monemvasia you will be 1 hour drive from the port of Neapoli. You should also inform the car rental company that you are going to take a ferry, there may be an insurance surcharge.