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Spriiiing breeaaak! Bolzano, Dolomites, and Vienna

I'm back from a not-very-springy Spring Break trip to South Tyrol and Vienna in mid-March. This got long--I hope someone eventually finds it useful!

Day 1. After flying from Newark to Milan, I took the train to Milano Centrale. Since you can't go from there to Bolzano without transferring anyway, I checked my luggage at Verona station (12 euros for two bags) and walked around. The sights didn't feel particularly noteworthy--I never even found the "Juliet balcony"--but it was early afternoon on the first warm day of the year and boisterous local teens getting out of school were probably a better reference to R&J than a faux location anyway! I was there for about three hours, which felt right, before continuing on to Bolzano, where I stayed at the Goldenstern Townhouse, which I'd highly recommend. It's an agglomeration of four medieval townhouses, renovated in a sophisticated way, and offering a lovely breakfast. They are upfront on the website about not having an elevator, but they actually did have an elevator for luggage, just not for the guests, which was fine with me. I had dinner at the Wirtshaus Vögele--Spargel (white asparagus) season was on. In fact there was a big market right in the middle of the town selling lots of Spargel among other things. Thoroughly charming.

Day 2. Perhaps my loveliest travel day in a long time. I took a morning walk to the Waltherplatz, where the trees already had some spring flowers and the cathedral's patterned roof stood out against a perfectly clear sky. Then I went into the Dominikanerkirche to see the frescoes. They were beautiful, and people puttering around the church were keen to make sure I knew how to work the timed lightswitches and audioguide to access on your phone. Then I headed to the Archaeology Museum (aka Ötzi Museum) as it opened. A thorough examination took me under two hours, as it is not large and wasn't crowded in March. It reminded me of the Vasa Museum in Stockholm, one of my favorites, in that it combined a discovery, what was learned from it, how it was conserved--lots of layers. Definitely worth the RS Guide's high rating. Next, I found the Johanniskirche, which I saw was open only on Saturdays from 10am-12:30pm. I arrived around 12:15, expecting to have a quick gander, but found the church staffed by an elderly man called Alfred, who was keen to tell me about the church, the art, and the history of the area (in German). I learned a lot, and he was really sweet--I lucked out to have had Saturday as my sightseeing day! I had lunch at the nearby Batzen Häusl--outdoors, since it was probably in the low 60s at this point. Then I set off for Castle Runkelstein/Runcolo, which has notable secular medieval frescoes. The potential routes were confusing, so I stopped to ask some of the few people I encountered. It turned out that they were long-term Bolzano residents from Ecuador and spoke Spanish and Italian, not much German or English--a father, mother, and son about 8 years old. So we couldn't converse much, but they were also headed to the castle on their weekend promenade and took me with them on a walk of 20-30 minutes uphill, wanting to make sure I ended up in the right place. The frescoes at the castle were worth the walk. I took the bus back down, then had a wonderful dinner at the Franziskanerstube.

Days 3-8. I did a Backroads trip (Dolomites snowshoeing). Arriving a day early as a buffer was smart--all the other guests had spent the prior day coping with a one-day Italian rail strike. This trip was a splurge, involving a 5-star spa hotel (the Alpenroyal) and special guides to take us through un-signposted alpine meadows and ridges with untouched snow in the area of Selva di Val Gardena and Ortisei. On the last day of the trip, they dropped us back off in Bolzano, where I stayed at the Park Laurin for proximity to the train station--fine, but not nearly as interesting as the Goldenstern Townhouse.

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Day 9. There is only one direct train to Vienna per day from Bolzano, which is at 7:50 and takes about 7 hours. After my Norway Covid disaster, I masked up for this, except for my hot lunch in the cafe. It was a rainy day so the views were pleasant but didn't keep me from reading 1.5 books. I easily rode the subway from Vienna central station to Boutique Hotel am Stephansplatz even with my copious luggage. It was about 3pm and raining hard. Rather than taking on soggy, halfhearted sightseeing, I put on all the Goretex I'd brought for the snowshoeing and went for a run along the canal and around the ring road. Back at the hotel, had a hot shower, did a work call, and ordered a light dinner through Wolt, as I'd learned in Germany recently. The standard room was comfortable and very well-designed and I'd gotten a good off-season rate by pre-paying back in December.

Day 10. Quite a good breakfast at the Hotel am Stephansplatz. Made a brief visit to said Dom across the street since it opens early, but I didn't pay to go into the restricted area because the art isn't quite my cup of tea and I could tell the altarpiece was shrouded for Lent. I could see enough from the back. Got to the Kunsthistorisches Museum as it was opening, but had to wait in line to buy tickets outside (in the rain)--I should have bought online in advance, and also should have had a 2 euro + 1 euro coin to use the lockers rather than waiting for the garderobe with all the other dripping people. As expected, I quite liked the KHM and visiting my favorite Bruegels again, although currently about a third of them are in a special exhibit that costs extra, with a theme of "the seasons" or some such, which seemed like a scheme to entice you to pay extra to see some Bruegels and the Archiboldos. Bit of side-eye at that. It was crowded; I managed to have a nice lunch in the cafe by choosing to eat on the early side before there was a long line. My time/energy planning wasn't great and I pretty much stuck to the paintings on the upper floor and not the antiquities. I walked around n the late afternoon after the rain stopped and had dinner at a place called Pauli. In Vienna I found it hard to get a restaurant table even as an early, solo diner--I made reservations for the later nights but never managed to get into most of the places I'd bookmarked in advance. This might be partly because I was staying right in the central area.

Day 11. Morning run up to the Belvedere; had to start around the outside because I managed to get there before the park opened, but was able to run through the park on the way back. I set off for the Hofburg but found the layout confusing after realizing that I'd brought the wrong ripped-out pages from my RS guide. So I went to the Clock Museum first, which I really liked. Lots of unique time pieces, with QR codes to access videos of some of the stranger ones in operation.

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Had a good vegetarian lunch at a place called Joyce, stopped back at the hotel to collect my guidebook pages, and went back to the Hofburg. At this point, I made a mistake that I think the guide encouraged--one of the few things I remember from my long-ago prior visit was general mystification about Sisi and why people care about her so much. Somehow the RS guide allowed me to hope that the "Sisi Museum and Imperial Apartments" would have more going on in the Imperial Apartments department, but it did not. I paid 20 euros to see an essentially all-Sisi attraction! Ugh. Given the hundreds of years of Habsburg history, I wish there were more to this attraction. After this, I needed a break so I had a slice of cake at Cafe Mozart by the Albertina, before hitting the Imperial Treasury, which I liked much better. Had dinner at a place called Il Melograno which was too fancy for the occasion but not touristy and I was able to get a seat as a walk-in.

Day 12. I set out early on an expedition to City Hall to get a Zählkarte for their tour, which occurs once per day on certain weekdays. These tickets are free but there are only 50, and I got #26 around 8:15am, so you really do have to go early. I then killed some time at the hotel before heading to the Natural History Museum, which had some really interesting exhibits on prehistoric settlements in Austria, especially the salt mines (in a time period between Ötzi and ourselves). I also liked the mineral collections. Headed back to City Hall at 1pm for the actual tour, which was led by the City Employee of the Year (in German, but there were audioguides for other languages). The silly but satisfying thing I wanted to see--the paternoster elevator (this is a video of a different one)--was not mentioned in the tour at all, but when I asked the employee at the end (in German), she cheerfully showed me where it was on the floorplan and let me wander off to find it. I had a good time riding up and down; only 2 other people out of the 50 ended up in that corridor and I think they were looking for the bathroom. Weird but fun! Then I went to the Leopoldmuseum, which I think may not have been a starred attraction in the RS guide, but should have been, because I thought it was the one place that best captured different aspects of Vienna (not just art, also literature, politics, etc.) around 1900. They had a special Schiele exhibit that opened a few days after I went home, which was a bummer, but the permanent exhibits were worth it. Got a reservation for dinner at Zum Weißen Rauchfangkehrer--a tasty schnitzel, but definitely touristy--this was the one place I can recall them persistently speaking to me in English even after I spoke in German. The service was quick too, leaving me ample time to get to my first Musikverein concert, a program of Lieder sung by soprano Christine Karg with a pianist. Simple, beautiful. Ran into a few hiccups--the seat I'd bought definitely did not indicate restricted view on the website but had truly zero view of the artists whatsoever--luckily I am aware of the tradition to simply slip into better unused seats, so I followed a bunch of locals into the front row of the balcony as the lights went down. Also had some hassle as the coat check was mandatory (??) and the program available only with cash, which I'd run out of earlier in the day, so I not only had no song lyrics but no list of songs! The good news is, I worked this stuff out on my less important night.

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Day 13. Went for a run around the university area and along the canal, final good breakfast, then went to the Albertina. Very much liked the current special exhibit of drawings (mostly Leonardo and Dürer) on colored ground, and the permanent collection. Had lunch at their agreeable cafe. I needed to reserve some of the afternoon for packing since I'd managed to accumulate books, wine, and a poster tube in addition to the fancy dinner outfits, mountain jackets and hiking boots which had exploded out of my suitcase along the way, but I still went to the Belvedere for a bit. I enjoyed this, but not as much as the Leopold--probably due to a combination of it being the last day, and also crowds looking for Klimt's The Kiss, which had a bit of a Mona Lisa mob-scene vibe. Had a dinner reservation at a place called Meissl & Schadn near the Musikverein, which was full of locals who mostly left at the same time as me--concertgoers. On evening 2, I was a pro at navigating the coat check and program purchase. The concert I attended featured my hometown conductor, Yannick Nezet-Seguin, leading Yefim Bronfman and the Philharmoniker in Beethoven's 3rd piano concerto and Ein Heldenleben. Yes, I went to Vienna and heard Richard Strauss! :) Now, I was in the neighborhood for the snowshoeing but it was interesting to hear other reactions to Yannick--one guy in the coat check line had come all the way from Dortmund without a ticket to try to get a Stehplatz, he likes Yannick so much. The show was sold out and I didn't remember that the Golden Hall feels smaller than newer venues I'm used to--the orchestra barely fit on the stage for the Strauss piece. An excellent performance. I no longer needed a map for the walk back to the hotel, which is about the same distance as I walk back home after a concert in Philadelphia, so I momentarily felt a little bit local as I said good night to the cathedral.

Day 14. Horribly early cab ride to Vienna airport, transferred at Frankfurt to a flight so empty, I had four seats with moveable armrests to myself. Made it home without covid!

What I learned from this trip. (1) As I found in Budapest (2023) and Paris (2022), returning to places that I already visited decades ago, in this era of peak travel, doesn't necessarily improve on my memories of them. I was also struck by the extremely enthusiastic reception I had in Bolzano compared to more-touristed places like Vienna, where they were not unfriendly, just didn't have a lot of time for visitors individually. Having spent years living in NYC, I certainly sympathize with folks' fatigue with tourists, and these contrasting experiences made me want to focus on visiting smaller cities going forward. (2) I was trying to max out my amount of tourism per jet fuel gallon, but this got tiring by day 12 at my current age. It was also a lot to plan with all the specialty packing, and making plans to mesh with the Backroads schedule, and I just didn't spend enough time researching what I wanted to see in Vienna vs. what were the top sights in general. (3) I wouldn't do a group trip for city travel, which I'm comfortable organizing on my own, but the Backroads trip was amazing and not something I could have done, logistically, on my own. Also, as someone who is A Planner, I found it a rare treat to have someone else take the wheel and do it so perfectly that I could just relax.

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Well-written report, I really enjoyed the read. Where to next?

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Thank you! A friend who I haven't traveled with before shares my interest Tallinn and/or Helsinki so we may do that. (Disappointingly, she was really into the Vienna idea but had an immovable work commitment--so she went alone the week after I did!)

I also would really like to see Peru and Machu Picchu and I see someone just posted a trip report about that! Korea is also on my mental list.

As a sometimes-solo traveler, I try to flexible about what's next. I'm keen on Peru but if somebody wanted to go to Korea, I'd probably do that first. Also, my other friend who wasn't able to do the Berlin Marathon may yet convince me to do Stockholm in 2026 even though I've been there before.

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Great TR, thanks. I had a few laughs, especially at how underwhelmed you were with the Sisi speciality tour, I've read a bit about her and personally found what I read very disinteresting. Huh, seems like you needed a bit more cash than I would assume in Vienna for small things? Bolzano is certainly a tourist destination, but I guess not on the scale of Vienna. I wonder if it also has to do with the difference in culture, Bolzano is after all Italian since I seem to recall the end of WWI. Thanks again, I've made some notes for a planned trip to Vienna.

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My experiences with cash have been all over the place recently ! I could have done my entire trip in Norway with zero cash--in fact I paid for almost everything with ApplePay on my watch. Germany--not so much, I used lots of cash there. In Hungary and Poland, I was able to pay for most things by card, but the machines were set up to pretty aggressively attempt to charge me in dollars and upcharge for the conversion--you had to be vigilant for that. Austria was mostly doable by card/ApplePay, but not at the Musikverein, which is how I'd gotten caught with no cash left in my last 30 hours--I'd been trying to avoid getting more cash out because I didn't think I'd need it, and then I did.

Bolzano is in Italy but I was surprised at how German-speaking and Austrian-feeling it was. I learned that the local population resisted the reassignment to Italy and the region is now semi-autonomous. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_Tyrol