Hi folks. When last I wrote here, I'd just returned from Norway with a nasty case of covid and was feeling depressed about being able to make this trip at all, but I'm happy to say that my zany idea of doing the Berlin marathon just because I love running and Germany turned out great.
I departed from Newark (no directs from Philly to Berlin these days). There was a train direct from the airport to Dresden-Neustadt--no need to transfer at either Hauptbahnhof. One of my goals on this trip, unusual for me, was to limit pre-race exertion and luggage-shlepping, so I'd made a reservation at RS-recommended Hotel Martha, which is about an 8-minute walk from the Neustadt station. I dropped my bags there and walked down the pedestrianized Hauptstraße to the Augustusbrücke. I liked this hotel a lot; it was low-key but comfortable.
DRESDEN
Day 1. On a sunny, warm Sunday at midday, families were promenading and the shops were closed. I found myself at a Herbstmarkt (fall market) at the Altmarkt--picture more or less the amenities of a Christmas market, only fall themed, and with zero identifiable tourists. Since I was traveling on my own and not speaking English to traveling companions, everyone assumed I was German too. Lunch was a Bratwurst, chatting with some locals. (I spoke German fluently as a student and am rustier now but still get by well). Next I went to the Zwinger sights. The central courtyard is heavily under construction which made it confusing to find your way into the different museums inside (sure, I was jetlagged but noticed others scrutinizing the signage in puzzlement, too). I visited the Mathematisch-Physikalischer Salon, the Porzellansammlung, and the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister. I enjoyed them all but I admit my eyes started glazing over looking at the porcelain. Walked over to the Brühlschen Garten where I found, even a week later, locals looking out aghast at the collapsed Carolabrücke. Had an early outdoor dinner on Königstraße near the hotel.
Day 2. I spent most of the day at the Residenzschloß starting with a 10am ticket for the Historic Green Vault. The entire SKD complex was right up my alley, so I saw pretty much all of it, with a midmorning break at the cafe and lunch at their very agreeable restaurant with courtyard seating. Late in the day, I walked past the Fürstenzug to the Frauenkirche where I was disappointed to find that the film wasn't available to see since a school group was there. The woman working there strongly implied that I shouldn't bother hanging around for the final screening of the day nor come back the next morning, since groups often fully reserve it. That was disappointing since I was more interested in the history than the present church. Had another outdoor dinner at another place on Königstraße. Watched Tatort rerun for full cultural immersion ;).