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Berlin Marathon, Dresden, Leipzig

Hi folks. When last I wrote here, I'd just returned from Norway with a nasty case of covid and was feeling depressed about being able to make this trip at all, but I'm happy to say that my zany idea of doing the Berlin marathon just because I love running and Germany turned out great.

I departed from Newark (no directs from Philly to Berlin these days). There was a train direct from the airport to Dresden-Neustadt--no need to transfer at either Hauptbahnhof. One of my goals on this trip, unusual for me, was to limit pre-race exertion and luggage-shlepping, so I'd made a reservation at RS-recommended Hotel Martha, which is about an 8-minute walk from the Neustadt station. I dropped my bags there and walked down the pedestrianized Hauptstraße to the Augustusbrücke. I liked this hotel a lot; it was low-key but comfortable.

DRESDEN

Day 1. On a sunny, warm Sunday at midday, families were promenading and the shops were closed. I found myself at a Herbstmarkt (fall market) at the Altmarkt--picture more or less the amenities of a Christmas market, only fall themed, and with zero identifiable tourists. Since I was traveling on my own and not speaking English to traveling companions, everyone assumed I was German too. Lunch was a Bratwurst, chatting with some locals. (I spoke German fluently as a student and am rustier now but still get by well). Next I went to the Zwinger sights. The central courtyard is heavily under construction which made it confusing to find your way into the different museums inside (sure, I was jetlagged but noticed others scrutinizing the signage in puzzlement, too). I visited the Mathematisch-Physikalischer Salon, the Porzellansammlung, and the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister. I enjoyed them all but I admit my eyes started glazing over looking at the porcelain. Walked over to the Brühlschen Garten where I found, even a week later, locals looking out aghast at the collapsed Carolabrücke. Had an early outdoor dinner on Königstraße near the hotel.

Day 2. I spent most of the day at the Residenzschloß starting with a 10am ticket for the Historic Green Vault. The entire SKD complex was right up my alley, so I saw pretty much all of it, with a midmorning break at the cafe and lunch at their very agreeable restaurant with courtyard seating. Late in the day, I walked past the Fürstenzug to the Frauenkirche where I was disappointed to find that the film wasn't available to see since a school group was there. The woman working there strongly implied that I shouldn't bother hanging around for the final screening of the day nor come back the next morning, since groups often fully reserve it. That was disappointing since I was more interested in the history than the present church. Had another outdoor dinner at another place on Königstraße. Watched Tatort rerun for full cultural immersion ;).

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LEIPZIG

Day 3. Meant to do a short run along the Elbe but the bridge closure prevented me from doing a loop so instead I headed north to the Alaunpark and past St. Martin's church--saw few runners, but it was "biking to elementary school rush hour." My legs were really tired from all the standing at the museums so I took my time heading back to the train station to go to Leipzig rather than doing any additional morning sightseeing.

During my dates, there was a big medical conference in Leipzig, so even 6 months out, it was a challenge to reserve a hotel room. I ended up at the "Vienna House Easy by Wyndham" right by the Hauptbahnhof, which isn't a very RS-style hotel but quite friendly and convenient. (And no, I don't get the name either.) After dropping off my luggage, I had a quick lunch and then went to the Stasi museum at the Runde Ecke, the Bach Museum, and the Nikolaikirche (short stop on my way back to the hotel). The weather was cooler and damper by this point, but I was feeling paranoid about bugs of any kind with the race coming up and after my run-in with covid, so I tried out the local food delivery app, Wolt, and had no problem getting my dinner delivered to eat in my room.

Day 4. Took the train around 8am to Weimar, which is not covered in the RS guide because I think it would be mainly interesting to German speakers who are interested in German literature. It's a charming town, though. I went to the Goethemuseum and Schillerhaus, then had lunch on the square. I had a 1:30pm ticket for the Anna Amalia Bibliothek, a rococo library damaged in a famous fire 20 years ago. I enjoyed this, but then again, I am a librarian. The whole town was probably a bit of a deep cut as far as American visitors are concerned.

From the train on the way there, I'd seen a sign for a Unesco world heritage site, the cathedral at Naumburg, so I got out there on the way back. This church started out Romanesque and was finished in the Gothic style, so it was a nice change of pace from all the Baroque-to-Enlightenment-era stuff I was otherwise seeing. It's known for the works of the sculptor, especially the mesmerizing statue of donor Uta but be aware that you'd be seeing the statues from much farther away than all these photos! I got back to Leipzig on the later side (this day involved about 3.5 hours of riding the train), so I ordered dinner from Wolt again. Big reading day.

Day 5. Did a nice run to the Leipziger Auwald, and down the river path to the Johannapark. Unlike in Dresden, I saw lots of other runners, who gave me friendly waves. (I guess I might have been identifiably foreign doing this because all the women I saw were wearing full-length tights and jackets, and I was in 3" tights and a tank top--it was so refreshingly cool compared to recent Philadelphia weather!) Once again, I felt like I'd successfully avoided walking too many steps but that all the standing around in museums had made my legs fatigued, so I bailed on my idea of going to the Leipzig city museum and instead headed to Berlin before lunch.

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BERLIN

My hotel in Berlin, the Innside by Melia, combined being expensive with a boring location, but it was selected by the marathon tour group for proximity to the start and expo. From here, the trip really changed gears--I was at a huge international event, in a city where English now seems to come first, and prioritizing running over sightseeing. After checking in the hotel, I chilled out for a while (more German TV) then went on an errand to Uniqlo to buy a cheap fleece to wear at the start of the race, since the forecast made the holey old shirt I'd brought for his purpose look insufficient. I went to the one in Alexanderplatz, which was interesting to walk around. Then I went to the Hackescher Markt area and sat with a glass of wine at a restaurant reading in a Hof for quite a while. For dinner, got takeout pasta from a restaurant near the hotel that I was testing out for pre-race dinner.

Day 6. It was hard to decide what to do with my limited sightseeing time since I've been to Berlin several times before and was by this point trying to severely limit my exertion. I chose a return visit to the Gemäldegalerie because they had a special exhibit on Frans Hals. Back to the hotel for a while, then went with the marathon group to the Expo at Berlin-Tempelhof. With 50,000 runners, this was a whole hullabaloo and took about 2 hours to get through (security checks, getting race numbers and shirts, etc.). I was hoping to see an exhibit about the Berlin Airlift that I heard was here, but I didn't find it in the mob. My big regret here is that I chickened out on buying the gorgeous 120€ race jacket because I was still so nervous about the race! Dinner was food truck pasta consumed standing up with my new marathon group pals.

Day 7. While I was sick with covid in June, the race organizers added a 5k event, which I signed up for in case I wasn't able to do the marathon. I treated it like a warm-up and a preview of the end of the course, even taking photos of the Brandenburger Tor finish, which I knew I wouldn't want to do during the real thing. It was also helpful to preview what it felt like running in low-50s-degree weather since we certainly haven't seen that in Philadelphia for a while. Low-key time at the hotel waiting for the group to come back from their Intro to Berlin walking tour (which I skipped). We all had a big pasta dinner at the place I scoped out on Day 5, then back to the hotel for an early bedtime.

Day 8. Marathon day! This isn't a race report, so I'll keep it short, but if you don't do these events, just picture 50,000 very nervous, cold people waiting in endless portapotty lines for 2 hours before entering a sort of cattle chute, hurriedly tossing aside half their clothing, and starting to run. I nailed my stretch-goal pace in the first 2km and held it, even doing my fastest miles after 20. Great crowds, including multiple Alphorn players, people just having their own party alongside the course, bands, drums, etc. I knew when I would round the corner to the Brandenburger Tor having done the 5k, and it was an amazing feeling to zip down that last kilometer or so. Probably my best planned and executed race in many years of running, even though covid dramatically foreshortened my training time. At the end I was so exhausted I mostly forgot to take any pictures, and had to sit on the ground to struggle into my post-race clothes. Straggled back to the hotel on the U-Bahn and showered. The race started so late that by this point it was nearly 5pm. Gathered with my tour group buddies at the hotel restaurant (my pre-race ideas about taking a cab to an old favorite restaurant on the other side of the town now seemed laughable). We hung out for about 4 hours having pasta, fries, and beer! Then I went back to my room and had my worst night of sleep on the trip until it occurred to me at 2am that I could stand to take a couple of Advil.

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Day 9. Shared a cab to the airport with a few of the group. A huge proportion of my flight was marathoners (which gave me more FOMO over that jacket). Everyone staggered on board; I was wearing full compression tights and tried to stand up every hour during the flight. A very kind friend collected me from Newark and drove me home.

Overall thoughts:
- Loved Dresden in particular--Berlin and Potsdam were the only parts of the former East Germany I'd ever visited so I'm really glad I finally made it here.
- This was a strange trip because it required me to avoid doing two of the things I like doing most while traveling: eating local food (I can't believe I was eating Quaker Instant Oats from home at a German hotel breakfast buffet, sob) and walking around a lot. If I did this again, maybe I'd do the tourism after the race.
- If I never saw another audioguide again, it would be too soon. My Weimar day had four locations that you really needed the audioguide to get anything out of. It started to really drive me nuts that you can't skim the information or decide how much time to spend in one room or another. Also, especially in the Bach museum, there was music in the audioguide competing with music in the exhibits, which other visitors would initiate, so it was just so noisy and overstimulating.
- The Deutsche Bahn website and ticket machines gave me consistently backwards advice on whether trains would be crowded and whether I should buy a seat reservation. Not sure if this just bad luck, but I would have come out ahead, hassle-wise, if I'd just coughed up the 5€ to reserve a seat on every leg where I had my luggage with me.

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As a former distance runner, rusty German speaker, former library clerk and Berlin lover, I enjoyed your trip report! I am booked to be in Berlin & Dresden in December (though I may need to reschedule due to a work event) and your Dresden details are helpful.

Someone I follow on Instagram ran the marathon and the course looked like lots of fun. I couldn't tell what the weather was like based on how people were dressed; some were in singlets and shorts and others were in long tights and long sleeves.

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It was perfect racing weather, IMHO--low 50's F. So I was part of the singlet crowd (with half-tights and high compression socks). Many of the runners were wearing shirts identifying their home country, and many of those were either in the Southern Hemisphere or Middle East. I imagine you'd have wanted to dress more warmly if you weren't acclimated! It was in the 40s waiting before the start (I think) and there was also a big temp difference between the sun and shade. It felt chilly enough that I might have chickened out of wearing my singlet if I hadn't been comfortable during my dry run in the 5k.

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A very interesting read! I am not remotely close to a runner, but I enjoyed that portion of the port as well as the other parts.

I have spent a short amount of time in Dresden (and only a day trip to Leipzig) and need to go back. So thank you for all the details!

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Congratulations on running the marathon, especially after your June Covid recovery. You really made good, thoughtful use your time before the race! Thanks for the detailed trip report.

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Good that you visited some of Germany's salient cultural and historical cities...Leipzig, Naumburg an der Saale, Dresden and Weimar.

I've been to Weimar a few times, one overnighter, the other times as day trips from Dresden. Just an absolutely lovely and tranquil place. I assume you saw the famous Goethe-Schiller statue am Theaterplatz. That statue is here in SF too.

Weimar is one of my favourite smaller towns (Kleinstädte) in all of Germany.