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October trip to Slovenia and a little extra Italy (Ravenna, Padua)

My next plan was to visit Helsinki and Tallinn with a friend in late summer, but those plans foundered as we discovered the unappealing, multi-leg flight options. I wanted to go somewhere, so I signed up for another Backroads trip--October hiking in Slovenia. To limit the risk of delays hooking up with the group, I bolted a few extra days in Italy on the front. I've bolded the highlights throughout!

Day 0. Amtrak to Newark, United flight to Venice. Day 1. Arrived in Venice and took a bus to Venice Mestre station. Per good advice on this forum, the next leg was to Ferrara--where one of the elevators wasn't working. A young man with an unlit cigarette dangling from the corner of his mouth seized my heavy suitcase and wordlessly whisked it up to the platform, for which I was very grateful in my grogginess. At Ferrara I switched to a slower local train to Ravenna. My hotel, Al Battistero, was a short walk from the station and I arrived to store my luggage there around 2pm. On my first day, my main goal is usually to just maintain consciousness until 9pm so I only took on one piece of sightseeing: Sant'Apollinaire in Classe, the church with notable mosaics that is a little way out of town and on a separate ticket from the others. I bought bus tickets at a newsstand and it was easy to navigate with Google Maps. A beautiful introduction to the mosaics! Had dinner at Na Fraschetta near the hotel, which was okay.

Day 2. Ravenna day. The good news was, with the help of melatonin, I slept for 10 hours and felt really refreshed. The bad news was, I appear to have slept unmovingly in a funny position and woke with pain and extreme stiffness in my neck and one shoulder. This proved less than ideal for a day's whose agenda was looking upwards at art in churches! I gritted my teeth and used my legs to move my eyes more than I otherwise would. After breakfast at the hotel, I started at the Mauseoleum di Galla Placida where I'd made my timed reservation for 9:20am. I bought the tickets about five weeks in advance. Contrary to the strict-sounding instructions about being on time for a 5-minute entry window, the Mausoleum was not yet open when I arrived because they were still looking for the keys. LOL. Once they found them and let eight or so visitors in, there was no enforcement of the time limit so I stayed for a while, visiting and revisiting each scene of the beautiful mosaics--especially loved the geometric and star designs. I was supposed to be at the Neonian Baptistry at 10 but the staff said I didn't need to worry about sticking to that, so I saw the nearby Basilica of San Vitale next--my favorite part here was the image of Empress Theodora. Then the Baptistry. I didn't need to rush so I read my book in a pretty garden near here, walked around a bit, and had a nice leisurely lunch outdoors at Ai Cairoli. Then to Sant'Apollinaire Nuovo, where I was amused by the editing of the mosaics to remove disfavored people (a whole row of niches featuring... curtains). Then to the museum and St. Andrew's chapel where I saw my favorite image of the day, a venerable lion-angel with a big bejeweled book. Last stop of the day was the Arian Baptistry at which point I was mosaiced out. Had dinner at Alighieri, which appeared to have not just an entirely local crowd but a local crowd that knew the staff personally. Friendly and good food.

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Day 3. Padua day. Back on the train. Stopped for a cup of tea while switching trains at Ferrara and the guy next to me at the counter was having a double grappa. Hey, it was Saturday. Arrived in Padua around 11:30 and used the left luggage at the station. It was easy to take the tram downtown, where I had another good, slow lunch at Ai Porteghi before going to the museum and then my 3pm reservation at the Scrovegni Chapel. The museum was kind of dull (even as someone who likes that kind of museum) but the chapel was well worth the stop! I felt that the process of the visit allowed you to really take a good look; it wasn't rushed for me. Then I walked around a while--found the area south-southeast of the Piazza della Erbe very picturesque. Stopped by St. Anthony's Basilica before taking the tram back to the station. From there, another train to Mestre and a cab to my Venice airport-area hotel.

Review of this part of the trip: It was a lot of riding the train but I doubt I'll ever be nearer Ravenna than Venice and always wanted to go there, so it was worth it to me. (However, people sometimes ask about doing it as a day trip from Venice and even without luggage, I'd say, woof, probably not.) The Al Battistero hotel was practical and comfortable--they serve breakfast and have small kitchens so it could be a good compromise vs. getting an Airbnb. Saw little evidence of large tour or cruise groups even though a few were supposedly around.

Day 4. Backroads trip met at VCE arrivals area. We boarded a shuttle and went up to the Friuli area and did about 7 miles' easy ramble through vineyards. Lovely landscape. Dinner was over the border in Slovenia at Gredič--wonderful. We overnighted in Italy at Castello di Spessa which I found run-down and uncomfortable--the one miss of the organized trip.

Day 5. Back over the border to Slovenia. We visited the World War I museum in Kobarid (very thorough and a cool special exhibit on some stranded American airmen) then did about 5 miles hiking to Drežnica with a good bit more elevation. It was beautiful and almost brutally sunny. Then we traveled to our next lodging, Hotel Bohinj, and ate dinner there (also very good).

Day 6. The week's most challenging hiking for me. We took a ferry to the far side of Lake Bohinj, did a flat hike along the northern bank (easy), then up the Mosternica Gorge (hard), then through high pastures (very easy) to lunch at a mountain hut. Stunning scenery, cute lambs and baby goats, about 9 miles total. Walked to dinner nearby at Majerca, also excellent! Another night at comfortable Hotel Bohinj.

Day 7. Over to famous Lake Bled. Visited an apiary, then hiked straight uphill for views of the lake/island/church/castle. I'd seen photos of this view online and in the promotional materials for this trip and thought, "If I got really lucky, I'd see it on a clear day like this but with fall foliage." That's what we got--the weather was PERFECT. They are doing road work which currently prevents you from doing a full circuit around the lake but I got in a good 5 miles. Had a great Kaffee und Kuchen break at a cafe called Zima. Then we went to the next hotel, Vila Planinka and had dinner at a local farm--everything on the table was from the farm itself.

Day 8. About 7 miles hiking around Jezersko--not as much elevation (I chose the easier route for a break!). We stopped at a 16th c. guesthouse with a non-English-speaking caretaker that I didn't catch the name of, and tried lots of different schnapps in Cvet Gora. Fancy valedictory dinner at the hotel.

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Review of this part of the trip: Weather could not have been better. Loved having choices of distance/challenge for the hiking and all the hotel/dining plans were great except the first hotel. This was a larger group than my last trip (18 total) and even though I'm an introvert, I could have spent another week with any of them!

Day 9. Final, pre-breakfast hike. Short but technical, culminating with some ropes and a ladder to a viewpoint. After breakfast, we were dropped off in Ljubljana about an hour away. I left my suitcase at Hotel Lesar Angel which has an excellent location at the edge of the busy central area, and had a nice outdoor lunch nearby at Julija. After that, I visited the Ethnographic Museum, which was just okay--the exhibits weren't really about Slovenia for visitors; it felt more like educational themes for locals. The RS Guide is a bit out of date about what's on view. I enjoyed walking around the scenic, pedestrianized downtown area. It appeared that a main activity here is to be beautiful in a beautiful place and I felt kind of scruffy! I had a creative, tasty dinner at Vida up the street from the hotel.

Day 10. Started my Ljubljana sightseeing day by visiting a fog-bound market early enough that everyone else was a local actually doing their grocery shopping and people kept trying to sell me kohlrabis. Then I took the funicular to the castle. This was kind of ho-hum--you have to buy a combo ticket that includes many sights (I had really no interest in the puppetry museum) and the history of Slovenia display is very basic and maybe more geared to locals (e.g. if you know the regions of Slovenia but not what the Black Death was). I walked down from the castle hill and had another long lunch before visiting the National and University Library, whose reading room is open to tourists on Saturdays. This was nice but since I work full-time in a large library with a beautiful reading room, this wasn't the most exciting for me. Finally, I went to the Ljubljana City Museum, which was great! Should have gone there first. Very informative, organized by time periods--each room even had a video of a local food blogger making a dish from that time period with a take-home copy of the recipe! Had dinner nearby at Špajza, which was fine.

Day 11. I panicked about a week before my trip when I realized that the Ljubljana Marathon was the day of my departure and the hotel was inside the course loop. Luckily, I had to leave for my 6:40am flight so early that things weren't totally locked down, but the hotel manager had volunteered to drive me for a flat fee and they even packed me a little breakfast-to-go. 5-hour layover at Frankfurt (zzzzzz) before taking that infernal Eurowings Discover flight back to Philly yet again. I don't love that airline but it's the most direct way for me to get home from lots of places.

I arrived home at dinnertime Sunday, excited over my experience, mentally relaxed, and ready to go back to work on Monday. Just in time for the big AWS outage (I work in IT). Whoops, even I can't plan everything!

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4528 posts

I enjoyed reading your report! Thanks for sharing! What was the company with which you did the hiking part of the trip? Were you happy with your time in Ljubljana or would you have liked more?

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  • The company I did the hiking with was Backroads. They are a very different (and more expensive) style than Rick Steves guides or the kind of travel I used to do with my ex-US-Army parents in the era of "Europe on $40 a day." It has worked out for me since I like doing at least part of my trip with other folks and having some days where someone else does the planning. Before covid, I tended to wait for the stars to align with friends' schedules and finances, and so I traveled much less. Backroads has been helpful to harness my more "carpe diem" attitude of the 2020s! It has also allowed me to go further off the beaten track than would be practical on my own.

  • I think the 1.5 days I had in Ljubljana were fine, in fact, I actually did my city sightseeing at a slower pace than usual and still caught everything I intended to. I learned at the City Museum that the location of Ljubljana may have been actually abandoned for some centuries between the Roman settlement of Emona and the Middle Ages. And the entire population of Slovenia is not much more than Philadelphia itself (and much less than our metro area). Which is to imply that the density of sights is quite a bit less than in other European cities where you really have to prioritize. A lot of what there is to see is views, bridges, statues, instead of big museums that take hours. With that in mind, I think it would be a good destination with kids since it's nice to just walk around the large pedestrianized area. One of the restaurants where I had lunch had a play structure on the street and lots of people were having lunch or coffee while their kids played nearby. Anyway, my trip prioritized the outdoors beyond Ljubljana and I think that is the right approach for Slovenia.

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Thanks for the response. I agree that the nature activities should be high on the list for a trip to Slovenia. I did 25 days in Slovenia in 2019. At least half of my days were nature days, and the vast majority at least touched nature in some way, even if just a short hike. Thanks again for your trip report and for your follow up answers.

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Thanks for the report, we’re headed to Ravenna next year.
And I agree about the museum at the Scrovegni Chapel. Not worth your time. And no, we didn’t feel rushed even though when you hear 15 minutes you kinda panic it won’t be enough.

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Very nice report, and sounds like a great trip. You had your logistics pretty airtight, well done!

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We were in Ravenna in September. To me the mosaics were like a photo book that transported you. They're far from photo-realistic but they're covered in rich detail. With a good guide the past become less abstract and more real. In addition to the beauty of the mosaic art, Ravenna played an important role as the Roman empire transitioned into the Gothic and then Byzantine empire, and this is all laid out before you in the mosaics. This time of transitions as the capital of the Roman empire was moved from Rome to the east was illustrated better than at any other place I've visited.

If you visit Basilica of Sant'Apollinare in Classe you can also visit the museum of Classis Ravenna which provides great background for the mosaics in Ravenna. It's a new-ish museum just a few minutes walk from this Basilica. It isn't full of antiquities but instead focuses on the political and economic reasons for Ravenna's ascent and decline. We spent a few hours there in the middle of a hot afternoon. There is a little restaurant just across from the Basilica where you can grab a gelato.

The small size of the city makes it easy to get around and pleasant for walking. We were happily occupied for 1 1/2 days seeing the sights. It's about an hour by regional train from Bologna so could be a day trip from there but admittedly we like to take our time. Given our interests, this visit was a highlight of our trip.