Córdoba was stop nine of our Andalusian adventure (previous stops were Malaga, Granada, Ubeda, Seville, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Jerez de la Fronterra, Cadiz, and Ronda). You can find my trip reports for each of our stops on this forum by clicking on the links before or clicking on my username.
We arrived in Córdoba via train from Ronda. The trip took us 2.5 hours (including a one-hour connection at Antequera-Santa Ana). We did know of our stop in Antequera-Santa Ana and assumed that, as it is a part of the AVE network and seems a major connection point, we would be able to find some lunch there but that was not the case when we visited. We booked our trip directly with Renfe and paid €60.00 per ticket.
Even before our visit to this amazing city, we had fallen in love with Andalusia, both modern and historic. As we wandered through the narrow, cobblestone streets of the historic Jewish Quarter of Córdoba, discussing how many languages had been spoken here, how many different religious rites practised, how many songs and dances had been performed over the centuries, how many foods eaten, and how many different prayers offered we realized that these questions (and their answers) are the essence, beauty, and wonder of this region.
There is a regular debate about whether to spend more time, in Cordoba or Granada – based on the experience of our trip, the answer is hands down more time in Granada. We spent two and a half days in Cordoba which we felt was the right amount of time.
In the sections below, I have only listed places personally visited.
Staying (prices are from February 2024)
AC Hotel Córdoba (Av. de la Libertad, 24)
The modern and business visitor focused, AC Hotel Córdoba, is a 5-minute walk from the train station and an interesting 20-minute walk to the centro histórico.
This is a typical AC brand experience, modern, comfortable but a bit bland.
The staff at the reception desk were friendly and helpful.
We stayed here on a points redemption.
Recommended.
Eating (prices are from February 2024)
Taberna La Bodega (C. de Alhaken II, 4, 6, Centro)
Taberna La Bodega is a classic tavern located in a side street of Av. Del Gran Capitan.
We visited on a rainy Friday evening and the place was packed, mainly with locals, which is always a good sign.
We managed to snag a couple of seats on one of the communal tables in the bar area and order a couple of tapas and glasses of wine. The rustic, bullfighting-themed decor with placards, trophies, photos and large wooden barrels makes for a welcoming and authentic atmosphere.
One of specialties of the house is their take on salmorejo, a chilled tomato soup which is quite a bit thicker than a gazpacho. A half portion (or media) was €4.00. We also ordered a half portion of espinacas con garbanzo (spinach and chickpeas) at €8.50. Both were delicious.
The service was fantastic, and we were made to feel very welcome indeed.
Expect to pay around €2.50 for a glass of wine.
Highly recommended.