Seville is the vibrant and welcoming capital of Andalusia, Spain. As the largest city in southern Spain, Seville is a melting pot of Moorish, Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance architectural styles and wears the weight of its rich and varied history with confidence.
We arrived in Seville by rental car (Europcar) and it was an easy return process at Sevilla Train Station. We took an Uber (which are plentiful) to our Airbnb. By this time, we had been travelling for 2 weeks and having the extra space of an apartment, the ability to make some of our own meals, and a washer dryer was most welcome.
The downtown of Seville is endlessly fascinating and extremely walkable. It projects both a historical presence and at the same time a modern, youthful exuberance – which probably explains why the Setas de Sevilla just seem to fit in so well and are so adored.
We spent five days in Seville and for first time visitors this is just about right – maybe a day less would be ok as well. We had some unsettled weather which reduced our wanderings a bit.
Seville was stop four on our Andalucian road trip. Check out the trips reports of our previous stops of Malaga, Granada, and Ubeda elsewhere on this forum or by clicking on my profile name.
In the sections below, I have only listed places personally visited.
STAYING (prices are from February 2024)
AirBnB, Calle Santa Paula, 12
This AirBnB was located in the extremely fun (and hipster) neighbourhood of Feria. It was an interesting 20-minute walk to the Cathedral of Seville and also just a few minutes away from the many bars and restaurants of Calle Feria and Alameda de Hercules.
The apartment itself was in a lovely building (directly opposite the Monastery of Sta Paula) with a classic central courtyard, a pool for the warmer months, and a nice roof top terrace.
The apartment was very pleasant, well equipped, and with a comfortable bed. A big plus was the communal washer and dryer (in a side room on the terrace). Do expect the bells from the Monastery to chime from 8.00am until 8.00pm.
The hosts were excellent with their communication and instructions. They made the whole process very easy and stress free.
Would definitely stay here again. Highly recommended
We paid €115.00 per night including all taxes.
EATING (prices are from February 2024)
La Cochera del Abuelo (C. Álvaro de Bazán, 2)
Located in the lovely San Lorenzo district, not far from the hipster hangout that i Alameda de Hércules, La Cochera del Abuelo (or Grandfathers Garage) was recommended on several sites in my pre-trip research, and so a reservation was made for 8.30pm on the night of our arrival.
Even at 8.30pm we were the first people in the restaurant which meant we had the full attention of the front of house team, including the owner. The décor and atmosphere are very warm and welcoming – especially on a wet February evening.
We ordered the soup of the day and some cured salmon to start followed by a white bean stew with fish and a grilled loin of iberian pork. The food was wonderful and the presentation classy. Could not praise the service any higher.
We paid €93.50 (including a bottle of Verdejo). Highly recommended.
Filo (C. Hernando Colón, 19)
This was a bustling café, close to the Cathedral, that our friend Stephane had found and recommended for lunch and a good catch up.
We ordered three salads and coffees. I must say that my Thai salad really hit the spot – I had been craving some spice and sour. My lunch companions were equally happy!!
I do want to add that the team at Filo were very charming and very diverse. It struck me as a place where you are welcome, irrespective of background. Seville is better for it being there.
We paid €36.50. Recommended.