I am trying to plan my April travel (outside the Schengen Zone) and am very interested in going to Albania, Montenegro, No. Macedonia, Serbia and Bosnia & Herzegovina. I have found places to stay, but am struggling with identifying transportation options. It seems renting a car has problems (road conditions, snow, traveling alone) and the only other method that seems doable is buses or flying from place to place. Has anyone done travel through this region and have recommendations? i had hoped for train travel, but not finding much. Thanks
There aren't many trains in that area, it's true. The train from Bar in Montenegro to Belgrade in Serbia is famously scenic. Actually, it's mainly the part of the line within Montenegro that is especially beautiful. The situation in Albania in 2024 was that there were tracks but no trains.
Montenegro has pretty decent bus service, though it won't get you to the beautiful national parks as far as I know. You can travel between the uninteresting capital of Podgorica and Cetinje (old capital), Kotor, Budva, Bar, Ulcinje and Herceg-Novi.
In the Balkans I do not depend on the accuracy of bus schedules found online. I go to the local bus station and inquire. Expect some difficulty communicating, because bus-station staff may not speak much English.
Two years ago I spent a lot of time in Albania and North Macedonia. Bus information is especially hard to come by in those countries. Bus stations are rare; there's often just a parking lot with buses scattered around. The folks you run into will try to point you to the right bus, which may be a mini-van. That's assuming you have found the right bus "station", which was no small feat for me in Albania. And you may be told a bus is going to Town X and find out upon arrival that it goes to some sort of highway intersection outside the town, nowhere near the stop from which our ongoing bus is to depart.
I dealt with the bus transportation challenges in 2024 by throwing money at the problem in the form of taxi rides. I decided it was worth it in order to be able to see more places in countries I might possibly not return to. (I'm 74.) If you can afford to do so, allowing for some town-to-town taxi rides will sometimes simplify matters. I didn't bother to prebook anything; I just went to a taxi stand and got a quote from a driver. I have no idea how much I overpaid; I decided not to look under that rock. I found in Albania the place I wanted to go was sometimes on the other side of a mountain range. Even though my taxi fares were agreed to in advance, the drivers didn't always take what looked like the shortest route on the map. No doubt there was a reason for that.
It's my impression driving isn't too difficult in Albania and car-rentals are reasonably priced; just be sure you have a good source for road conditions (maybe ViaMichelin.com). It's not a path I'm willing to take as a solo traveler whose eyesight is imperfect, but others have done it.
Bus service is especially limited across international borders in the Balkans. There's a good chance the local tourist office will have some information about that sort of service, though I wouldn't bet my itinerary on a cross-border van service that runs once a day (and maybe not even every day of the week). It would be very prudent to have some slack in your schedule. Back in 2015 I was able to find a bus from Nis in southern Serbia to Podgorica in Montenegro. That bus ride was highly scenic, but it took all day. In fairness, the condition of the road was poor, and the driver had to weave back and forth to avoid the many potholes. I wouldn't have wanted to drive on that road myself. The bus departed on time but arrived at least an hour late. I guess the road was worse than the schedule-makers expected.
There will be comfort stops on long bus rides. You may encounter eastern toilets, and you may have to pay a fee or tip the monitor. When you cross a border, you may not have the correct currency--a potentially awkward situation. Expect to have to pay much over the odds if you don't have coins from the right country. I'd guess euro coins would be more acceptable than US or Canadian currency.
In 2024 I travelled Italy -> Albania -> Montenegro -> Serbia.
Italy -> Albania: By ferry from Ancona to Durres. I bought the ticket online.
Albania/Tirana: I used Google Maps to find transport in ALbania. I had to invest in a lokal Sim card because my usual Sim card did not cover Albania. This new Sim card also covered Montenegro and Serbia.
Albania -> Montenegro: I used Flix Bus to plan my trip, though the bus was from a local company
Montenegro/Podgorica: I walked all over the town. Used Google Maps to find my way
Montenegro -> Serbia: I went to the train station to buy a ticket to the night train.
Serbia/Beograd: I walked and used lokal busses. Used Google Maps to find my way.
Everywhere I used Booking.com app to find accommodation.
Read more here: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/general-europe/tirana-albania-e511916d-ab92-4bed-9d74-2cd1abe98661
I also recommend reading TexasTravelMom's report.
April as in soon?
I have been to all on your list except North Macedonia. Quick impressions:
Albania: only been once, five years ago. Vibrant, beautiful from coast to the Albanian Alps, good people, affordable. We became friends on the trip, so my guide has invited me back this summer for a social visit. I’m not sure if I will have the time. But she has gone from driving and guiding to hotel and restaurant ownership … on the coast … so sort of looking forward to it.
Montenegro: I have been returning and returning and returning over the last 12 years or so. This is one of my favorite places. The coast is Croatia before the tourists came, the high country has some stunning locations, wine, olives, oysters. I’ve done the major tourist points multiple times because I enjoyed them so much, now I have a guide friend that looks for stuff not in the books yet and the trips are getting better as a result.
Serbia: interesting
Bosnia & Herzegovina: For Sarajevo alone worth the time. Great people and great life lessons if you get the right guide and hear the history of the last 50 years. Great unspoiled nature outside of Sarajevo wonderful villages. I head back once a year for fly fishing in the mountains.
Kosovo: you left off your list but a good chance you will go through it. Historically important, nice folks, interesting villages. I’ve driven through and stopped long enough for lunch but not much experience yet.
Then the issue of getting around. For do it yourself, I know TexasTravelMom https://community.ricksteves.com/users/50966 has ridden the busses and rented cars in the region. So, there is a good source. She has a lot more self-confidence than I do and enjoys the challenge, but she is no novice either. When she isn’t doing her own trip she leads trips of similar old ladies all over Europe. So, an experienced Traveler. Me, I’m just a simple Texas boy so I go looking for help. I use the same tour planner to plan for Bosnia & Hercegovina and Montenegro and Croatia. And she has another company she works with in Albania and Kosovo so everything is well coordinated. Don’t know about North Macedonia.
I like the places and the people I meet in between the major stops. Sometimes those memories stick with me longer than the tourist venue stops. To get the most out of that I must rely on drivers, but a hotel room and a driver in Albania costs less than just a room in Vienna so its really about priority for me.
So, will I ride a bus? Probably not. I only have 6 to 8 days on most trips and if I screw something up and get on a wrong bus or get lost on the walk between the bus stop and the destination or the schedule changed and I must wait 2 hours … well those are big things in my life. I would rather use those lost two hours with the roadside fruit vendor buying an orange and talking to the seller with the interpretation of my driver.
As an example, Podgorica to Kotor is 2 to 2.5 hours on the bus and only costs about $10. It appears that there is a short portion where you can see the water along the way. On the other hand, a private driver will cost $125 to $150. You will go the high route over the mountain drive through villages and stop and see prosciutto being made … and eat … then drive down a road that has the most spectacular views of Kotor and Kotor Bay. Stop, take pictures! Plan on about the same time as the bus, 2.5 hours; maybe 3 hours at most.
Get some help and figure out where the bus does everything it needs to do and where you might benefit from a driver.