My wife and I are 71 and 81, in reasonably good health. We're about to plan a two-week, July or August trip beginning in Krakow, then continuing north to Vilnius, Riga and Tallinn. Our first concern is whether to do this by rental car, train or bus. Hoping some well-experienced travelers to these countries can tell us which method - or combination - is "best" in terms of convenience and price.
1) By car would normally be my preference, but we've been shocked to see Sixt and Enterprise adding upwards of $ 1,800 to $2,000 in "taxes & fees to the rental charges on top of the add-on charges for travel to another country and dropping the care there. Did I understand these charges correctly?
2) Trains would probably be our second choice. But I can foresee possible confusion and hassles with scheduling, switching trains, etc.
3) Riding by bus is probably our least favorite method -- but we don't know about bus service/accomodations in these countries. And I read somewhere that a bus may be preferable to the trains, and definitely cheaper?
4) Can anyone tell me if the train service between Vilnius, Riga and Tallinn is like the flexible Eurail system of travel, allowing on and off to explore each city?
Our main goals are to see the old towns and cultural attractions of the Baltic capitals, along with one or two possible side trips that might be done by bus. We would deeply appreciate advice from anyone who has "been there and done that". Thank you!
I haven’t been to Vilnius, but I have visited the other three cities you mention, so I’ll chime in with my two cents’ worth. Yes, car rental companies charge large additional drop off fees when the car is returned in a country other than that in which it was picked up. If you haven’t yet checked Autoeurope, you might find a better price there. But regardless of the cost, if your primary interest is in the main cities a car is not really necessary, and may in fact be more trouble than it’s worth. There are trains linking Krakow and Vilnius, as well as the other cities. The Krakow-Vilnius run is 10+ hours however, with changes in Warsaw and/or Mockava. If you plan to stay in Warsaw as well, the train trip from there to Vilnius is a few hours shorter. Otherwise, you might want to look into flying from Krakow to Vilnius.
Seven years ago, my wife and I travelled from Tallinn to Riga via a “transfer tour”. The company, rigatraveller.com, runs mini-bus transfers/tours between Tallinn and Riga, as well as between Riga and Vilnius, with multiple stops along the way to visit places of interest. The trips take about 12 hours compared to 4-5 direct driving, but provide a great way to see some beautiful places that you would not likely see otherwise. The diver was fluent in English, and both informative and entertaining. It’s a minivan, so they have a maximum of seven or eight passengers, although I believe they also offer private transfers if you want to pay for them. It’s worth a look, and if you don’t think it’s for you, there’s always the train.
Have you considered flying from Krakow to Vilnius? Depending on the day, WizzAir and Air Baltic have non-stop flights and it would save you the long train ride /drive.
Thank you Ottawanderer - that's a great handle you chose! I think we would be interested in the transfer tour you mentioned. Can you recall where you minibus stopped along the route from Riga to Tallinn? Thanks again!
I want to suggest that you consider extending your trip a bit. There's a lot to see in all four cities, and you'll lose some time traveling between them. I'd have been wildly frustrated to have only a bit more than 3 days in each city--and that's without day trips. Most of my visits to secondary cities in Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania involved multiple-night stays outside the capital. Mind you, I'm unusually interested in Cold War history, art and decorative art, so my sightseeing lists were longer than average.
The buses in the Baltic countries are, in general, very comfortable.
From Krakow to Vilnius, I would definitely suggest flying. By train, the best time you'll get is about 10.5 hours. That's a long time on a train. I flew between Warsaw and Vilnius because of the length of the train. I flew with LOT.
Between Vilnius, Riga and Tallinn, there is a new train service but it is only once a day.
I took a coach with Lux Express between Vilnius and Riga. I'm not a fan of buses but this was different. Two classes are offered. The "first" class was only about $10 more. The seat was comfortable and reclined, entertainment screen, A/C, free wifi, toilet on board, and free coffee, tea or water (self-service.) Once out of Vilnius, the bus only stopped once to change drivers. That only took a couple of minutes.
A similar service is offered between Riga and Tallinn. I was supposed to take it but decided to fly at the last minute with Air Baltic.
Hi Landsmann,
Glad to see you get my handle! I had to go back to my trip log to come up with the names of the places we stopped, as I had heard of none of them before the trip. Or since for that matter. We visited the towns of Viljanda and Valga in Estonia, and Cesis in Latvia, as well as the old bobsleigh run in Sigulda. Viljanda has the ruins of a Teutonic castle and some interesting caves. In Valga we stopped at a small war museum, as well as a lunch stop outdoor town. Cecis was particularly beautiful, and also hosts a castle. There was also a random roadside stop to buy the sweetest, juiciest strawberries I’ve ever had (it was mid June). It was a long day, but well broken up, and we enjoyed visiting some very off the beaten track spots. By the way, we also did a day tour with the same company during our stay in Tallinn, to the northern part of Estonia and Lahemaa National Park.
Thank you Acraven. You may be right — four medieval town centers seemingly brimming with fascinating architecture and old-world allure have tempted me to "over-achieve". I am a dedicated photographer who finds Art Nouveau (and Deco) endlessly captivating! Not to mention the lure of ancient town squares in general. I also appreciate the history lessons that were drawn in Poland and the Baltics. Since you mention "art and decorative art" can you refer us to some noteworthy places in that corner of the world?
I believe I'm also coming around to us possibly using the Lux Express or similar bus. Surprisingly, from what I see and read online, busses might be preferable to the trains and certainly far less expensive than a car rental. Thanks again!
Thanks for your informative reply, Ottawanderer! We have enjoyed the freedom of using rental cars on previous European journeys. But after looking at this proposed trip I am now inclined to agree that a rental might not be so necessary for the places we want to visit.
I am especially interested in the "transfer tours" you mention between the three Baltic countries. And so I'm now wondering if we can possibly have a couple of these tours — Vilnius to Riga, and Riga to Tallinn — to do double duty: provide transport we need along with sightseeing between Vilnius and Tallinn. That would certainly break up one long bus trip into more relaxing shorter segments with breaks and interesting attractions along the way. I do wonder, however if they can accommodate one large suitcase and two carry-ons for these tours. I aim to find that out next.
Thank you once again for making my "travel agent" duty just a bit easier!
This info was compiled in early 2024, so it all needs to be verified before you make a special trip somewhere.
ESTONIA - Tallinn:
Kumu Art Museum, A. Weizenbergi tanav 34, Kadriorg Park: The best of contemporary Estonian art displayed in a strikingly modern building. ekm.ee
Mikkeli Muuseum, A. Weizenbergi tanav 28, Kadriorg Park: Small museum with art and decorative art (Asian porcelain). https://mikkelimuuseum.ekm.ee/en/
Kadriorg Palace – Kadriorg Art Museum (Kadrioru Kunstimuuseum), A. Weizenbergi tanav 37, Kadriorg Park: Not sure what's exhibited now; I think this is more about the building than the collection. www.kadriorumuuseum.ekm.ee
Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum (Museum of Applied Art and Design), in courtyard behind Lai tanav 17: Includes textiles, jewelry, glass and 18C-20C ceramics.
Art Hall and Exhibitions, Vabaduse Valjak (Freedom Sq) 8: Estonian art and some crafts shown on 2nd floor of Art Hall, 3rd floor of S Wing, vestibule and 2nd floor or Riigikogu. Enter left vestibule of castle. (I don't remember what I saw here.) www.kunstihoone.ee
Tallinn Art Hall Free Gallery, Vabaduse Valjak 6.
Adamson-Ericu Muuseum, Luhike jalg 3: Art and decorative-art museum, branch of Art Museum of Estonia; incl. ceramics, jewelry, textiles and furniture. www.adamson-eric.ee
Disaini- ja Arhitektuurigalerie, Parnu mnt 6: Exhibition of Estonian product design.
Eesti Kaasaegne Kunsti Muuseum (Estonia Contemporary Art Mus, EKKM), Pohja pst 35. www.ekkm.ee/en/
Kai Art Centre, Peetri tanav 12, Kalamaja: Temnikova & Kasela Art Gallery has temporary exhibitions. I wouldn't make this a top priority. https://kai.center/en/visitor-information#hours
ESTONIA - Tartu:
Eesti rahva muuseum (Estonian National Museum), Kuperjanovi 9/Muuseumi tee 2 (outside town): Excellent ethnographic collection, well-labeled in English. Ask for a language card to access displays. www.erm.ee
Tartu Kunstimuuseum (Tartu Art Museum), Leaning House, 18 Raekoja plats: One of country's best collectionx of Estonian art. www.tartmus.ee
Tartu Ulikooli Kunstimuuseum (Tartu Univ. Art Museum), S wing of university’s lemon-colored Main Building (Tartu ulikooli peahoone), Ulikooli 18: I don't remember whether this is a large enough collection to be worth a visit. https://muuseum.ut.ee/en/art-museum
LATVIA - Riga
Makslas Muzejs Arsenals (Arsenal Museum of Art), Torna iela 1: Cutting-edge, high-quality Latvian art mid-20C to present. No permanent collection. Closed for reconstruction at the time of my trip. www.lnmm.lv
Makslas Muzejs Rigas Birza (Art Museum Riga Bourse), Doma laukums 6: 16C-20C European painting and 19C Chinese/Japanese painting. Lots of portraits. Also Egyptian, decorative (porcelain and glass) and Indian art. www.lnmm.lv/en/mmrb/
Rigas Vestures un Kugniecibas Muzejs (Museum of History and Shipping), Palasta iela 4: Has some silver, glass and jewelry. www.rigamuz.lv
Peterbaznica (St. Peters Church), Skarnu 19/Reformacijas laukums 1: Frequent temp. art exhibitions. www.peterbaznica.riga.lv
Dekorativas Makslas un Dizaina Muzejs (Museum of Decorative Arts & Design), Skarnu iela 10/20: Art 1890-present. Some glass, weaving and inter-war ceramics. www.lnmm.lv
Rigas Porcelana Muzejs (Riga Porcelain Museum), Conventa Seta (winding convent ctyd): Not a top priority. https://porcelanamuzejs.riga.lv/en/serviceshours/
Jugendstila Muzejs (Art Nouveau Museum), in townhouse at Alberta iela 12: I think it has Art Nouveau-era decorative art, but I'm not 100% sure. www.jugendstils.riga.lv.
Jana Rozentals un Rudolfa Blaumana Memorialais Muzejs, Alberta 12, top floor: Late 19C/early 20C furnishings, Rozentals paintings. https://memorialiemuzeji.lv/museums/jana-rozentala-un-rudolfa-blaumana-muzejs/
To be continued.
Continuing with LATVIA - Riga...
Art Platz, Alberta 4-9: Art Nouveau building now housing multiple exhibition spaces. Ring doorbell marked “Art Platz”. www.platzkart.info
Latvijas Nacionalais Makslas Muzejs (Latvian National Art Museum), Kr Valdemara 10a / Jana Rozentala laukums 1: Latvian, Russian and German art, including icons and socialist realism. Nicholas Roerich works (Art Nouveau/ folk/mystical) on ground floor and works by impressionistic Janis Rozentals on first floor. www.lnmm.lv IYP2020
Latvijas Nacionalais Vestures Muzejs (National History Museum), Brivibas bulvaris 32: Includes ancient jewelry, wooden religious sculptures and recreations of Art Nouveau and Art Deco rooms. www.lnvm.lv
Romana Sutas un Aleksandras Beļcovas Muzejs, Apt 26, courtyard behind Elizabetes 57a: Art museum in Art Deco former apartment of two artists. https://www.lnmm.lv/en/romans-suta-and-aleksandra-belcova-museum/visit/tickets
LITHUANIA - Vilnius
Nacionaline Dailes Galerija (National Art Gallery), Konstitucijos pr. 22: 20C/21C Lith art; also good temporary exhibitions. http://www.ndg.lt/en.aspx
Vytauto Kasiulio Dailes Muziejus (Vytautas Kasiulis Art Mus), Gostauto 1: Art by Kasiulis. https://www.lndm.lt/en/
Taikomosios Dailes ir Dizaino Muziejus (Applied Arts Museum), Old and New Arsenals, Arsenalo gatve 3a, Vilnius Castle Complex: Hosts major exhibitions mainly related to history of Lithuania, the Grand Duchy and sacred art. Permanent exhibition includes folk art 17C-19C, including wooden crosses, and religious objects. www.ldm.lt
Radvilu Rumai (Radvila Palace), Vilniaus 24: Remaining wing of early 17C palace, now an art gallery with permanent (not significant) collection and temporary exhibitions (latter 19C/20C Lithuanian artists). https://www.lndm.lt/en/rrm/
Galerija Vartai, Mokytoju namai (Teachers’ House), Vilniaus gatve 39: Good contemporary-art shown in spectacular Art Nouveau building. https://www.galerijavartai.com/
Literatu gatve: Outdoor gallery of 100+ artworks dedicated to writers with Vilnius connection. www.literatugatve.lt
Paveikslu Galerija (Vilnius Picture Gallery), Chodkevičiai Palace, Didzioji gatve 4: Lithuanian Art 16C to beginning of 20C. Permanent collection not strong; temporary exhibitions might be worthwhile. https://www.lndm.lt/en/vpg/
Kazio Varnelio Namai-Muziejus, 26 Didzioji St: Strong collection of modern graphics, paintings, sculptures, furniture and ceramics. www.lnm.lt
Rotuse (Town Hall), Didzioji 31: Sometimes ahs temporary exhibitions. www.vilniausrotuse.lt
Siuolaikinio Meno Centras (Contemporary Art), 2 Vokieciu St: Some non-European art. Closed for reconstruction at time of my trip. www.cac.lt
MO Muziejus, Pylimo gatve 17: Modern and contemporary art plus special exhibitions. https://mo.lt/en/
LITHUANIA - Kaunas
A Zmuidzinavicius Kuriniu ir Rinkiniu Muziejus (Velnius Muziejus--Devil’s Museum), V Putvinskio gatve 64: Fine depictions of devils, witches, etc., and wooden folk sculpture. Closed at time of my trip.
M K Ciurlionio Dailes Muziejus, V Putvinskio 55: Art by Ciurlionis and folk art. www.ciurlionis.lt
Paveikslu Galerija (Picture Gallery), Donelaicio 16: Minor 20C Lithuanian and émigré art and Fluxus works. Many temporary exhibitions.
Mykolo Zilinsko Dailes Galerija, Nepriklausomybes aikste 12: 16C-20C paintings and porcelain. Closed for reconstruction at the time of my trip. www.ciurlionis.lt
LITHUANIA - Klaipeda
Pranas Domsaitis Gallery and Sculpture Park, Liepu 33: 20C Lithuanian art and permanent exhibition of works by Domsaitis. Sculpture park with 116 sculptures; mainly abstract. https://www.lndm.lt/en/pdg/
Mazosios Kalvystes Muziejus (Blacksmiths’ Museum), Saltkalviu 2a: Lovely crosses. www.mlimuziejus.lt
Thank you Acraven for that long, long list of museums! I think we may look into one or two but I appreciate your effort on our behalf.
If you end up taking transfer tours, in addition to the Riga Traveler tour Riga to Tallinn, here is one Vilnius to Riga. https://discoverlithuania.biz/tour/vilnius-riga-tour-regular/
I have not taken either, but was scheduled for both one year I had to cancel. When I rescheduled, I rented a car and drove because I was able to add more days and more cities. I second David’s opinion about the driving not being difficult. However recently someone on the forum was checking rental prices and it seems the one way drop off fee has gone up considerably since my rental in 2024.
In 2024, the Discover Lithuania tour stopped at Hill of Crosses, Rundale Palace, Bauska Castle.
The Riga Traveler advertised to stop at Bobsleigh track in Sigulda, Cēsis castle, Sietiņiezis in the Gauja National Park, military museum in Valga and lunch, Viljandi crusader castle.
It did seem like a good way to see additional sites, if driving isn’t for you.
Edit: Perhaps CWsocial’s trip report will help. https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/3-weeks-4-capitals-solo-after-warsaw-in-3-baltic-capitals
Here’s mine: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/baltics-september-2024