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Baltics September 2024

Overview:
5 nights Vilnius; 2 nights Klaipeda; 5 nights Riga; 2 nights Sigulda; 2 nights Tartu; 7 nights Tallinn

This was my first trip to this area - not large geographically but with a very interesting history. I had a car after leaving Vilnius until reaching Tallinn. I read all I could find about the Baltics on this forum, used good recent information from CWsocial (but also others like Dave, Christa, David, and more). When adding towns for my interim stops, I used Carol from Martinez’s choices - for a trip she didn’t get to take. I also used In Your Pocket guides.

Vilnius:

Stayed: in an apartment right off Pilies Street, so very central to all of the old town. With 5 nights, I love an apartment over a hotel for more of a local feel for me. I met the owner’s mother who spoke little English for key handover but we managed fine. It was a long trip to get there, so after dinner and groceries, I went straight to bed.

I started my first day with a “free” walking tour.

During my days I visited: Vilnius Cathedral; the Museum of Occupation; Lukiškės Square; Dominican Church of Apostles St. Philip and St. Jacob; Bernadine Gardens; say Anne’s Church; and Path 1 (the lower floor - oldest portion) of the Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania.

Highlights:

The Vilnius with Locals tour was quite good. Tip at the end.

I returned to Vilnius Cathedral later in my stay for a free organ concert. I like music of all kinds (ok, most kinds) so that is something I am on the lookout for when I arrive and am doing some initial wandering.

The changing of the flag in front of the Presidential Palace, which takes place at noon on Sundays. There is a drum corps, a formal lowering of current flags, replacing with new flags, and a few guards in chain mail and armor thrown in for good measure.

I was there during a big marathon event, which changed a few things. So the top level of the Palace of the Grand Dukes was not open nor was there music at the fountains in the Bernardine Gardens on the evening I went (instead there was a rather strange music performance going on with the musicians sitting on platforms out in the river - remember when I said I like MOST music? Ha!). However on the positive side, a parade showed up on the street beside me while I was eating dinner.

Ate: normally just one restaurant meal a day.

Katpedele on Pilies Street; Katpedele (lunch) near the Cathedral and Palace; Lokys; Etno Dvaras on Pilies Street (twice - once inside in the cellar and once outside on the street). I would definitely recommend Lokys and Etnos Dvaras for good food and drink that focused on traditional Lithuanian recipes and products grown and/or made in Lithuania.

Impressions:

Vilnius was never crowded, even on marathon day. It was relaxed and interesting.

I feel like I toured fewer things here because I had significant jet lag my first few days. I would literally fall asleep by 3pm and wake up during the night and not be able to go back to sleep. It took me 3 days to get this under control and it was probably my worst jet lag ever when going to Europe. On my final morning, I picked up a car from the airport and headed toward Klaipeda.

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Klaipeda:

Again, I had an apartment. I had no particular agenda for Klaipeda except to see more of the countryside and another town in Lithuania.

On the way: Trakai Castle. This could also be a day trip from Vilnius but it was an easy stop with a car and let me use my 4 full days for Vilnius. Trakai Castle is small, but in a beautiful setting: on a small island with 2 short bridges to walk to reach it. Several locals have adapted their yards for €5 parking, which was easy and convenient. Somewhere I found a recommendation for Senoji Kibininė along the water to eat kibiny z (not a typo), similar to a Cornish pasty and apparently unique to the Trakai area, and I heartily agree!

I spent my one full day in Klaipeda just wandering. There are green spaces, canals, and a harbor (which actually had a cruise ship docked - I saw a few tour groups but not too many). Theater Square, the main square, according to my apartment host, has a history but not a good one of being where Hitler gave a speech once when Nazi Germany occupied this area. It was a rainy day and past busy season, but it was a pretty little town.

Driving in Lithuania was easy. The countryside was also the most like parts of Texas (not my part) that I have ever driven through - not all of it but some of it. Leaving Klaipeda, I drove to Riga.

On the Way: I made 2 stops along the way, both from the sightseeing transfer bus that I didn’t end up using. One was the Hill of Crosses: a unique center for pilgrimages where people come and leave a cross. There are all sizes and shapes and it is an interesting sight.

Then I drove on to Rundale Castle, which was modeled on Versailles, on a smaller scale. I spent a couple of hours here and could easily have spent more, but was running out of time. It was a truly beautiful palace/castle and so few people there! In many of the grand rooms, I was the only one there!

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Riga, Latvia:

Stayed: A delightful apartment near the train station - neither in the historical center nor the City Center but very close to both. The owner met me both arriving and leaving and stayed in good contact throughout my stay. We sat and had an hour long chat on my way out - absolutely enjoyable.

Ate: Andalūzijas Suns; Lido Vērmanītis; Liberty; DOM; Radisson Sky Bar. The first two restaurants were recommended by her and were spot on in different ways. Andalūzijas had great food, both inside and outdoor dining. I actually ate there twice and everything I had was really good. Lido Vērmanītis was, best I can describe it, a Latvian milk bar: home cooking, very inexpensive, and cute surroundings. The Radisson Sky Bar was a splurge on my final night, but a very nice one. I had a table by the windows for sunset and invited an English female solo traveler to join me for the views - and it ended up being a really great last evening.

Visited: Again, I started with a free walking tour - well done; St. Peter’s Church; Museum of Occupations of Latvia; canal boat cruise; Freedom Monument and gardens; Riga Cathedral; Art Nouveau Center; a self-guided walk down Alberta Street; and the Nativity of Christ Orthodox Cathedral.

Highlights: I really liked everything I saw (and ate) but I do look forward to music and I definitely found it. I attended a free piano concert at St. Peter’s; a performance of Turando at the Latvian National Opera House; and a performance by a famous organist and the Latvian National Choir at Riga Cathedral. Another highlight was attending church out in the suburbs somewhere - a wonderful group of people.

Impressions: Riga is probably the place I felt connected to the most. I would go back. Driving into and in Riga was a touch nerve-wracking but I drove in around 5pm. Driving out in a morning was fine. Google Maps also gad the most trouble in Latvia, mostly, I think, because there is construction to expand traffic capacity. However roads everywhere were in good condition.

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19626 posts

You have this format worked out pretty well. Reserved spaces even LOL
Glad you enjoyed the trip. Where did you go after the Baltics?

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937 posts

GREAT trip report, TTM! Wondered why you felt the most connected in Riga, excited to hear about your impressions of Tallinn. I'm sure you know about the TimeShifter app, too bad you had such bad jet lag, I hate to say it but it seems to get worse with age. I just calculated that in 9 years with 3x a year travel to Sweden except 2020, I've had a YEAR of jet lag, yikes! I find it works about as well as I use it, more on my way to Europe as it's easier for me to get up earlier than stay up later.

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5210 posts

It's 3am and I'm reading this... no jet lag, just awake. I guess I'm on Europe time!

Was your driving on motorways or country roads? Did you pass through little towns along the way or was it mostly open?

Did you drive far enough that you needed to stop for petrol along the way? What were the stations like?

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3988 posts

I am very much enjoying this trip report! For fall 2020, I had planned a trip to Poland that was to be followed in 2021 by a trip to Latvia. Klaipeda was part of that planned 2021 trip. I thought it looked like a great place to relax. I'm glad you mentioned it. Did you find it a worthwhile place to stop? I'm eager to get to Vilnius, too.

I enjoyed Riga when I visited there. It looks like you did a lot during your time there. I'm looking forward to reading more about the rest of your trip! The Jugendstil/Art Nouveau architecture is stunning.

I look forward to reading about the rest of your trip as it appears in this report!

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4610 posts

@ Sandancisco, I haven’t figured out why I connect more with some places than others. But, even though I can’t think of anywhere I have been that I didn’t like - and lots of places I really like - my list of places with a connection goes something like Riga, Granada, Kastraki, Sarajevo, and Budapest. Lots of other places I love and could return to - but some hit a little extra.

And jet lag? No idea! I rarely have it going TO Europe and always when I come home. I had a fairly long layover in Helsinki, making the journey even longer. I didn’t sleep much on the planes, and stayed up till a real bedtime when I arrived. But this was definitely a different kind of jet lag!

CW, being on Europe time is fine - you are already prepared for going back! Ha! I drove all those kinds of roads. The driving wasn’t tricky, with mostly not driving in city centers. Even Tartu, second largest city in Estonia, wasn’t difficult. And petrol stations were frequent and easy to get in and out of. I filled up twice (but forgot to check exactly how many kilometers I covered). You filled up, then went inside to pay. Used my phone and ApplePay. Just like in the U.S., there seemed to be a variety of stations with a variety of amenities. Many had a lovely selection of coffees, drinks, pastries, candy, chips, and sandwiches, etc. (but obviously not all).

Mr. É, I don’t think anyone is surprised I often seem to end a trip in Budapest. You did make me look back, though - 2022-2024 the count of times I end a trip in Budapest is @ 50%. I am adding the dentist to the mix this time. Good so far. PLUS getting to visit forum friends, other friends, and heading out of the city for a weekend (for the first time). OH! And I borrowed CWsocial’s excellent format idea!

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4610 posts

@ Dave, you were writing while I was. Lol. I think describing Klaipeda as a place to relax is very accurate. With only one full day, which was actually a rainy one, I didn’t spend a lot of time trying to sightsee. I relaxed in the morning, then walked much of the old town area. With a second day (or a sunny first day), I would have spent time on the Spit. Busses looked easy to manage. But it was a pretty good distance from Vilnius - one of my longest drives.

And yes, the architecture in Riga is gorgeous. I had thought about taking an art nouveau walking tour, which would have been interesting. I decided to hold myself to only one walking tour, though, which was the Old Town.

I really enjoyed Vilnius - it had the small town feel to it. And the scenery I saw between Vilnius and Klaipeda (and on to Riga) was serene, not dramatic. :)

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19626 posts

TTM, so far this week I have run into no less than 7 US tourists, but only 3 have been RS types. Just did the walk to the spice shop. Turned out to be a bigger hit than I would have guessed. Then Palack for wine and a snack, then the Synagogue (where I abandoned them). AND PEOPLE, the tram doors only stay open for 10 seconds!!!

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I almost stopped at Palack yesterday! (But went to Street Food Karavan and had langos instead). So far today only coffee…. And I’m not dumb, but last night we had a tram door that didn’t open at all. That was a first. It did the next stop though, and that was fine.

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768 posts

Excellent trip report TexasTravelMom! I too enjoy finding live music on my trips. It is one of those little things that makes a big difference while traveling.

Looking forward to reading the rest of you report!

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19626 posts

I had 4 people riding for free (what does that tell you). Getting them to the tram was ..... But a first, the driver waited on us.

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576 posts

Thank you for the trip report. I loved your organization format. I think I may have to copy that. Somewhere in the Baltics is next on our list so it was helpful. My knowledge at this point is finding them on a map, and I only know that because my son proposed to his wife five years ago while they were traveling in Albania.