Overview:
5 nights Vilnius; 2 nights Klaipeda; 5 nights Riga; 2 nights Sigulda; 2 nights Tartu; 7 nights Tallinn
This was my first trip to this area - not large geographically but with a very interesting history. I had a car after leaving Vilnius until reaching Tallinn. I read all I could find about the Baltics on this forum, used good recent information from CWsocial (but also others like Dave, Christa, David, and more). When adding towns for my interim stops, I used Carol from Martinez’s choices - for a trip she didn’t get to take. I also used In Your Pocket guides.
Vilnius:
Stayed: in an apartment right off Pilies Street, so very central to all of the old town. With 5 nights, I love an apartment over a hotel for more of a local feel for me. I met the owner’s mother who spoke little English for key handover but we managed fine. It was a long trip to get there, so after dinner and groceries, I went straight to bed.
I started my first day with a “free” walking tour.
During my days I visited: Vilnius Cathedral; the Museum of Occupation; Lukiškės Square; Dominican Church of Apostles St. Philip and St. Jacob; Bernadine Gardens; say Anne’s Church; and Path 1 (the lower floor - oldest portion) of the Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania.
Highlights:
The Vilnius with Locals tour was quite good. Tip at the end.
I returned to Vilnius Cathedral later in my stay for a free organ concert. I like music of all kinds (ok, most kinds) so that is something I am on the lookout for when I arrive and am doing some initial wandering.
The changing of the flag in front of the Presidential Palace, which takes place at noon on Sundays. There is a drum corps, a formal lowering of current flags, replacing with new flags, and a few guards in chain mail and armor thrown in for good measure.
I was there during a big marathon event, which changed a few things. So the top level of the Palace of the Grand Dukes was not open nor was there music at the fountains in the Bernardine Gardens on the evening I went (instead there was a rather strange music performance going on with the musicians sitting on platforms out in the river - remember when I said I like MOST music? Ha!). However on the positive side, a parade showed up on the street beside me while I was eating dinner.
Ate: normally just one restaurant meal a day.
Katpedele on Pilies Street; Katpedele (lunch) near the Cathedral and Palace; Lokys; Etno Dvaras on Pilies Street (twice - once inside in the cellar and once outside on the street). I would definitely recommend Lokys and Etnos Dvaras for good food and drink that focused on traditional Lithuanian recipes and products grown and/or made in Lithuania.
Impressions:
Vilnius was never crowded, even on marathon day. It was relaxed and interesting.
I feel like I toured fewer things here because I had significant jet lag my first few days. I would literally fall asleep by 3pm and wake up during the night and not be able to go back to sleep. It took me 3 days to get this under control and it was probably my worst jet lag ever when going to Europe. On my final morning, I picked up a car from the airport and headed toward Klaipeda.