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Baltics September 2024

Overview:
5 nights Vilnius; 2 nights Klaipeda; 5 nights Riga; 2 nights Sigulda; 2 nights Tartu; 7 nights Tallinn

This was my first trip to this area - not large geographically but with a very interesting history. I had a car after leaving Vilnius until reaching Tallinn. I read all I could find about the Baltics on this forum, used good recent information from CWsocial (but also others like Dave, Christa, David, and more). When adding towns for my interim stops, I used Carol from Martinez’s choices - for a trip she didn’t get to take. I also used In Your Pocket guides.

Vilnius:

Stayed: in an apartment right off Pilies Street, so very central to all of the old town. With 5 nights, I love an apartment over a hotel for more of a local feel for me. I met the owner’s mother who spoke little English for key handover but we managed fine. It was a long trip to get there, so after dinner and groceries, I went straight to bed.

I started my first day with a “free” walking tour.

During my days I visited: Vilnius Cathedral; the Museum of Occupation; Lukiškės Square; Dominican Church of Apostles St. Philip and St. Jacob; Bernadine Gardens; say Anne’s Church; and Path 1 (the lower floor - oldest portion) of the Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania.

Highlights:

The Vilnius with Locals tour was quite good. Tip at the end.

I returned to Vilnius Cathedral later in my stay for a free organ concert. I like music of all kinds (ok, most kinds) so that is something I am on the lookout for when I arrive and am doing some initial wandering.

The changing of the flag in front of the Presidential Palace, which takes place at noon on Sundays. There is a drum corps, a formal lowering of current flags, replacing with new flags, and a few guards in chain mail and armor thrown in for good measure.

I was there during a big marathon event, which changed a few things. So the top level of the Palace of the Grand Dukes was not open nor was there music at the fountains in the Bernardine Gardens on the evening I went (instead there was a rather strange music performance going on with the musicians sitting on platforms out in the river - remember when I said I like MOST music? Ha!). However on the positive side, a parade showed up on the street beside me while I was eating dinner.

Ate: normally just one restaurant meal a day.

Katpedele on Pilies Street; Katpedele (lunch) near the Cathedral and Palace; Lokys; Etno Dvaras on Pilies Street (twice - once inside in the cellar and once outside on the street). I would definitely recommend Lokys and Etnos Dvaras for good food and drink that focused on traditional Lithuanian recipes and products grown and/or made in Lithuania.

Impressions:

Vilnius was never crowded, even on marathon day. It was relaxed and interesting.

I feel like I toured fewer things here because I had significant jet lag my first few days. I would literally fall asleep by 3pm and wake up during the night and not be able to go back to sleep. It took me 3 days to get this under control and it was probably my worst jet lag ever when going to Europe. On my final morning, I picked up a car from the airport and headed toward Klaipeda.

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Klaipeda:

Again, I had an apartment. I had no particular agenda for Klaipeda except to see more of the countryside and another town in Lithuania.

On the way: Trakai Castle. This could also be a day trip from Vilnius but it was an easy stop with a car and let me use my 4 full days for Vilnius. Trakai Castle is small, but in a beautiful setting: on a small island with 2 short bridges to walk to reach it. Several locals have adapted their yards for €5 parking, which was easy and convenient. Somewhere I found a recommendation for Senoji Kibininė along the water to eat kibiny z (not a typo), similar to a Cornish pasty and apparently unique to the Trakai area, and I heartily agree!

I spent my one full day in Klaipeda just wandering. There are green spaces, canals, and a harbor (which actually had a cruise ship docked - I saw a few tour groups but not too many). Theater Square, the main square, according to my apartment host, has a history but not a good one of being where Hitler gave a speech once when Nazi Germany occupied this area. It was a rainy day and past busy season, but it was a pretty little town.

Driving in Lithuania was easy. The countryside was also the most like parts of Texas (not my part) that I have ever driven through - not all of it but some of it. Leaving Klaipeda, I drove to Riga.

On the Way: I made 2 stops along the way, both from the sightseeing transfer bus that I didn’t end up using. One was the Hill of Crosses: a unique center for pilgrimages where people come and leave a cross. There are all sizes and shapes and it is an interesting sight.

Then I drove on to Rundale Castle, which was modeled on Versailles, on a smaller scale. I spent a couple of hours here and could easily have spent more, but was running out of time. It was a truly beautiful palace/castle and so few people there! In many of the grand rooms, I was the only one there!

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Riga, Latvia:

Stayed: A delightful apartment near the train station - neither in the historical center nor the City Center but very close to both. The owner met me both arriving and leaving and stayed in good contact throughout my stay. We sat and had an hour long chat on my way out - absolutely enjoyable.

Ate: Andalūzijas Suns; Lido Vērmanītis; Liberty; DOM; Radisson Sky Bar. The first two restaurants were recommended by her and were spot on in different ways. Andalūzijas had great food, both inside and outdoor dining. I actually ate there twice and everything I had was really good. Lido Vērmanītis was, best I can describe it, a Latvian milk bar: home cooking, very inexpensive, and cute surroundings. The Radisson Sky Bar was a splurge on my final night, but a very nice one. I had a table by the windows for sunset and invited an English female solo traveler to join me for the views - and it ended up being a really great last evening.

Visited: Again, I started with a free walking tour - well done; St. Peter’s Church; Museum of Occupations of Latvia; canal boat cruise; Freedom Monument and gardens; Riga Cathedral; Art Nouveau Center; a self-guided walk down Alberta Street; and the Nativity of Christ Orthodox Cathedral.

Highlights: I really liked everything I saw (and ate) but I do look forward to music and I definitely found it. I attended a free piano concert at St. Peter’s; a performance of Turando at the Latvian National Opera House; and a performance by a famous organist and the Latvian National Choir at Riga Cathedral. Another highlight was attending church out in the suburbs somewhere - a wonderful group of people.

Impressions: Riga is probably the place I felt connected to the most. I would go back. Driving into and in Riga was a touch nerve-wracking but I drove in around 5pm. Driving out in a morning was fine. Google Maps also gad the most trouble in Latvia, mostly, I think, because there is construction to expand traffic capacity. However roads everywhere were in good condition.

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On the Way:

Riga to Sigulda is only an hour. I was ready to check out but ended up staying an extra hour talking with my apartment hostess. And driving out was easier than arriving. Not far outside of Riga, I stopped at the Ethnographic Open-Air Museum of Latvia, which covered a lot of area. This was interesting and the nature was of,course beautiful (and very few people there) but much information in English. I spent a couple of hours here. After that I stopped for late lunch at a very nice restaurant /hotel on the outskirts of Sigulda at a place recommended by my Riga hostess.

Sigulda:

Another darling little town made for relaxing. I stayed in an odd (but very inexpensive) little hotel that included breakfast: Hotel Kakis. Breakfast and dinner were served cafeteria style and the food was simple (but any number of choices) and good.

I visited Sigulda New Castle and Sigulda Old Castle, and while there had some of the best (while slightly unusual) ice cream I have ever had. The black bread and jam was probably my favorite, odd as it sounds. There’s a bobsled you can ride on weekends, a cable car, and another castle - none of which I did or saw. But you could easily vacation there another day. There were so many green spaces - as much space as space for houses, it seemed, and I did drive through a fair amount of the town.

On the Way:

With a 2 1/2 drive from Sigulda, Latvia to Tartu, Estonia, I passed up the Soviet Secret Bunker and the Valga sõjamuuseum (a museum of old war vehicles), stopping only at Cēsis Castle and museum. Due to a wrong turn, I saw a bit extra of this little town and it was another cute little place that would make an easy interesting overnight. The castle was very similar to others I had seen, but I am addicted to places like that.

Tartu:

I stayed at a lovely hotel I booked direct: Villa Margaretha. Tartu is a university town and everyone said it is lively. I was there one day, so not enough time to evaluate this - but it is a pretty town with a nice old town area by the river. I visited the Botanic Garden, which at first I thought was small till I walked behind the large hothouse. The hothouse requires a ticket but the outside is free.

On the Way:

I could have gone to the Estonian National Museum on my full day, but had no stops planned for my driving day. So I checked out and spent a couple of hours at the museum before driving on to Tallinn. This is one of the most interesting museums I have been to. It is extremely high-tech. In the low LONG facility, your ticket scan will change the exhibit explanation to the language you choose upon entry. A different scan saves your chosen exhibit information for later download. I thought it was well-signed and had quite a variety, making it well-worth the stop or a detour.

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Tallin:

Stayed: an apartment near St Olaf’s church built on former city walls. A really lovely large place where the owner lives when not traveling. When she is gone, she leaves mom in charge. :)

Ate:

Cantina Texas (the most successful Tex-Mex I have ever had outside the U.S.); Farm; Chakra (the smells drew me in); Old Estonia on the square; Rataskaevu 16 and slightly smaller sister restaurant Väike-rataskaevu​. (And a place or two that were fine but not worth mentioning.) Of all these, the last two were huge hits for me, serving modern Estonian cuisine (because my walking tour guide said there really isn’t any traditional “Estonian” cuisine) with a really homey atmosphere.

Visited:

I started with a “free” walking tour that took us by the Monument to Estonia's Independence from the Soviet Union and in the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, along with various other stops; Tallinn City Museum; Dominican Convent 1246 Museum; Tallinn Holy Spirit church for both a Sunday service and a Monday vocal concert; a wander up Katariina street; St Olaf's Church (although I didn’t climb the tower); Viru Gate; a short wander through the Rotorman district; the Hotel Viru KGB tour; Teliskivi and the Baalti Jaam Market (I think both of,these places would be lively in the summer and a day with no rain); and a performance by the Estonian National All-Male Choir at the Estonia Concert Hall.

Highlights: the walking tour and the choral performance. Oh, and my appointments for hair and nails - I love doing this sometimes when I am on a long trip.

Impressions:

Tallinn in September was not crowded at all, but only 2 of my days were there cruise ships in town. Still it would have been easy to avoid most of the crowd, I think. There was much on my list that I didn’t do (always - and I am ok with that). 40% of Tallinn’s population is Russian speaking and many make no attempt to learn Estonian. Schools will probably not begin to remove Russian from schools, unlike Latvia and Lithuania, because there is a shortage of teachers who speak Estonian. Bolt worked well - I used it to and from the airport mainly.

Overall:

This was a really enjoyable trip. All three countries are easy places to be. I encountered friendliness and helpfulness and great English in the cities and adequate English in smaller places.

The Russian / Ukrainian war weighs. Energy costs have gone up and all 3 countries feel their country will be “next” - and know they are not large enough to resist on their own.

The cobblestones in the old city centers of the capital cities are fierce. They are the big round kind.

I drove, but I think I could have seen all these places by using busses. Since I have time to integrate bus schedules when I travel, I may start thinking more about how to do what I want without a car.

There was far more on my list of worthwhile sights than what I actually did/saw. Leaving Tallinn, I flew on to Budapest via Finn Air, with a change in Helsinki.

Posted by
996 posts

GREAT trip report, TTM! Wondered why you felt the most connected in Riga, excited to hear about your impressions of Tallinn. I'm sure you know about the TimeShifter app, too bad you had such bad jet lag, I hate to say it but it seems to get worse with age. I just calculated that in 9 years with 3x a year travel to Sweden except 2020, I've had a YEAR of jet lag, yikes! I find it works about as well as I use it, more on my way to Europe as it's easier for me to get up earlier than stay up later.

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It's 3am and I'm reading this... no jet lag, just awake. I guess I'm on Europe time!

Was your driving on motorways or country roads? Did you pass through little towns along the way or was it mostly open?

Did you drive far enough that you needed to stop for petrol along the way? What were the stations like?

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I am very much enjoying this trip report! For fall 2020, I had planned a trip to Poland that was to be followed in 2021 by a trip to Latvia. Klaipeda was part of that planned 2021 trip. I thought it looked like a great place to relax. I'm glad you mentioned it. Did you find it a worthwhile place to stop? I'm eager to get to Vilnius, too.

I enjoyed Riga when I visited there. It looks like you did a lot during your time there. I'm looking forward to reading more about the rest of your trip! The Jugendstil/Art Nouveau architecture is stunning.

I look forward to reading about the rest of your trip as it appears in this report!

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@ Sandancisco, I haven’t figured out why I connect more with some places than others. But, even though I can’t think of anywhere I have been that I didn’t like - and lots of places I really like - my list of places with a connection goes something like Riga, Granada, Kastraki, Sarajevo, and Budapest. Lots of other places I love and could return to - but some hit a little extra.

And jet lag? No idea! I rarely have it going TO Europe and always when I come home. I had a fairly long layover in Helsinki, making the journey even longer. I didn’t sleep much on the planes, and stayed up till a real bedtime when I arrived. But this was definitely a different kind of jet lag!

CW, being on Europe time is fine - you are already prepared for going back! Ha! I drove all those kinds of roads. The driving wasn’t tricky, with mostly not driving in city centers. Even Tartu, second largest city in Estonia, wasn’t difficult. And petrol stations were frequent and easy to get in and out of. I filled up twice (but forgot to check exactly how many kilometers I covered). You filled up, then went inside to pay. Used my phone and ApplePay. Just like in the U.S., there seemed to be a variety of stations with a variety of amenities. Many had a lovely selection of coffees, drinks, pastries, candy, chips, and sandwiches, etc. (but obviously not all).

Mr. É, I don’t think anyone is surprised I often seem to end a trip in Budapest. You did make me look back, though - 2022-2024 the count of times I end a trip in Budapest is @ 50%. I am adding the dentist to the mix this time. Good so far. PLUS getting to visit forum friends, other friends, and heading out of the city for a weekend (for the first time). OH! And I borrowed CWsocial’s excellent format idea!

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@ Dave, you were writing while I was. Lol. I think describing Klaipeda as a place to relax is very accurate. With only one full day, which was actually a rainy one, I didn’t spend a lot of time trying to sightsee. I relaxed in the morning, then walked much of the old town area. With a second day (or a sunny first day), I would have spent time on the Spit. Busses looked easy to manage. But it was a pretty good distance from Vilnius - one of my longest drives.

And yes, the architecture in Riga is gorgeous. I had thought about taking an art nouveau walking tour, which would have been interesting. I decided to hold myself to only one walking tour, though, which was the Old Town.

I really enjoyed Vilnius - it had the small town feel to it. And the scenery I saw between Vilnius and Klaipeda (and on to Riga) was serene, not dramatic. :)

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TTM, so far this week I have run into no less than 7 US tourists, but only 3 have been RS types. Just did the walk to the spice shop. Turned out to be a bigger hit than I would have guessed. Then Palack for wine and a snack, then the Synagogue (where I abandoned them). AND PEOPLE, the tram doors only stay open for 10 seconds!!!

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I almost stopped at Palack yesterday! (But went to Street Food Karavan and had langos instead). So far today only coffee…. And I’m not dumb, but last night we had a tram door that didn’t open at all. That was a first. It did the next stop though, and that was fine.

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Excellent trip report TexasTravelMom! I too enjoy finding live music on my trips. It is one of those little things that makes a big difference while traveling.

Looking forward to reading the rest of you report!

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Thank you for the trip report. I loved your organization format. I think I may have to copy that. Somewhere in the Baltics is next on our list so it was helpful. My knowledge at this point is finding them on a map, and I only know that because my son proposed to his wife five years ago while they were traveling in Albania.

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Thanks for posting.

I am interested in your observations of Riga and most especially of Klaipeda, the former Memel , the most northerly city in pre-WW1 Germany. Klaipeda is on the ferry line from Germany, takes ca 28 hours or so.

When Hitler gave that speech in Memel, he went there by ship crossing the Baltic and getting seasick along the way . It looks as though he couldn't take it. This was before WW2 started.

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Thanks for the trip report…so far. I’m looking forward to reading the rest.

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Thanks, Christine! For some people, the art makes a stop extra special. For me, it’s the music.:) :)

Tammy, you always make me feel good. (I need smiley face emojis here).

Renee, the Baltics made a good trip. But so do the Balkans AND Albania! Gotta catch up with the kids! Lol.

Thank you, BethFL and Andrea! My list of places to get to is still long…..

Fred, that is very interesting! I had no idea about Klaipeda. Not German history, but my apartment host had worked as a ship mechanic on Soviet ships before retiring (he is my age). He said his dad told him in order to avoid trouble to work down below instead of up above.

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I was sooooooo happy when I sat down for breakfast at my local Eggs Up Grill and saw that this thread had just been updated. Then I opened it and saw that the "holder" spots had been filled!

I was not disappointed. I enjoyed reading about the rest of your Baltic trip. How did you like the castle at Cesis? As I recall, I was given a lighted lantern so that I could descend into the dungeon of one of the towers there. It was cool!

How was the KGB tour? Kitschy, I know. But I really enjoyed it.

I like how you work a few performances into your trip. I enjoy doing that, too.

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Thanks for letting me drive along with you on this latest update from Riga to Tallinn. The details about the road stops are interesting. And I'll be happy to tag along on buses next time, if that's what you decide. There are interesting stories and stops there too.

I liked reading your description of the technology of the Estonian museum that changes the language of a display based on your ticket election and scan. So clever! I'd love for the Estonians to be our tech department. I guess, in a way, they are with the likes of Skype and Bolt. And their tech incubator with investments from founders of those billion dollar "unicorns."

I'm such a geek that this is the thing that intrigues me!

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Thank you, Barbara!

Dave, I am glad you have neither floated nor blown away…. I loved the castle at Cesis. I have a picture of the lanterns, but looked at my hands and regretfully declined. One would be needed for any possible rails on stairs and the other for my phone and pictures (and flashlight as needed). Actually some of the stories are pretty grim, but it’s a beautiful place, with more reconstruction ongoing. The KGB tour was fun - both informative and entertaining. I also had the KGB Headquarters and Cells on a list but was never in the right frame of mind to go….. Of course, there’s lots more I could say about my trip, but I talk too much to begin with. Ha!

CW, someone would be pushing you out of the Estonia Museum when it was time to close. One exhibit (in an area about night time) was riding with the train conductor via VR goggles. Our guide talked about “trying something new” last year and going to vote on paper in person instead of voting online. Not this year. Ha!

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Enjoyable report! Very timely, too, as my DH and I have started planning a 2025 trip to these countries. It sounds as the weather in September wasn't bad. Any idea how it might compare to May? We were in Poland from late April-early May this year and didn't mind it at all-much better than cooking in the summer heat. But September holds promise as well...

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Thanks, Den! And yes, I had lovely weather! I had a few days of rain during my 3 weeks but I either just put my raincoat on or took the morning to relax (oh, and once I just got wet). It was warm but not hot most of my time - and the last few days in Tallinn moved to a bit chillier, but not cold.

I have no idea how this compares to May. You’d probably want to go back and look at historical weather. But I like traveling in September - that’s when I went to Poland in 2022 and Montenegro and Bosnia last year. It should be a great trip either way!

Edit: to add none of my lodgings had air conditioning. There were a few nights I was a bit warm at night but overall, it was nice.

Posted by
7980 posts

TTM, I think in the future all I'm going to do in terms of trip planning is just follow you. You always travel to the most interesting places, and every time I read one of your reports, I think "I definitely have to go there!." I can tell you research places very well, too, so I'm going to just sit back and follow in your footsteps, lol!

Seriously, I always enjoy reading these, and love the details you put in there. Sorry about your jet lag, though. I wonder what made it hit so hard.

BTW, of your places that you felt a connection to, the only one of those I've been to is Granada and I concur. I really loved Granada. Not because of the Alhambra, but walking through the medieval old town in the evening sent chills down my spine. Sometimes I felt like I had stepped back in time.

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Mardee, you are funny. Because you know I just took my travel plan from other people, right? Lol! But that’s what the forum is good for!

I agree about Granada. The Alhambra took me there, but that’s sure not what takes me back. More than likely part of it, in addition to what you have described, is that in the tapas places in the evening, yes, they have tourists - but they have a lot of people who live there and who love to start up conversations with strangers. Even if I speak no Spanish and they speak no English.