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Netherlands scouting trip: choosing a base town for day-to-day life

Hello everyone,

My wife and I are planning a 7–8 day scouting trip to the Netherlands in late February, as we’re considering a possible move in the next couple of years. We’d love to hear from people with on-the-ground experience — whether you currently live there, have lived there in the past, or have spent extended or repeated time in the Netherlands.

A bit about us for context:

  • We’re in our mid-40s, no children
  • We currently live in suburban Westchester County, NY (near NYC)
  • I work from home
  • My partner is a freelance corporate photographer so she would travel into major cities for work rather than commute daily to a single office
  • We’re used to a walkable town center, a quieter day-to-day pace, and regular train trips into a larger city

For this trip, we’re thinking of basing ourselves in one town or small city and taking day trips by train — both to explore different areas and to get a sense of what everyday travel and rhythm might feel like.

Places we’re currently considering include:

  • Leiden
  • Haarlem
  • Delft
  • The Hague

We’re not looking for a “best” answer, but rather how these places actually feel over time, particularly from an American perspective.

We’d especially appreciate insights on:

  • Day-to-day livability and rhythm
  • Ease of getting into larger cities by train
  • Whether a place feels self-contained vs. primarily commuter-oriented
  • Any tradeoffs that only become apparent after spending real time there

If you’ve spent time in more than one of these places, we’d especially welcome any compare/contrast observations.

Thanks very much for any perspectives you’re willing to share.

Posted by
6514 posts

So exciting! I’ve often said the Netherlands wins for livability of all places I have visited (just not for weather, lol). I have not spent enough time to advise, but I would for sure consider the the ones I have been to or my spouse has spent time in: Leiden is pure loveliness but maybe more expensive because of the schools. The Hague maybe more expensive because of the workforce but I’d give it a gander. Delft I would be least optimistic about because of the tourism factor. It felt the least “real.”
Not knowledgeable about Harlem.
I know it’s not real, but House Hunters International airs a lot of Netherlands episodes so if you can stream some, you’d get a sense of house types.
Train system is so good any of those would be fine.

Posted by
1642 posts

Hi and welcome to the forum! I have visited all of the places you have mentioned, most recently in 2024.. Delft is a small charming city. To me it felt too small and too quiet and I personally would get bored staying there for long. My mother (in her 70s) remarked that she could see herself living in Delft because she saw many older people riding their bikes :) The Hague is a big, busy city and is the administrative center of the Netherlands. You will see lots of embassies and other government building. I did not find the city charming. Honestly, the only reason I visited was for the Mauritshuis museum. The last time I visited Haarlem was more than ten years ago so I will refrain from commenting on it. I really enjoyed Leiden — it was full of life, charming, not too big, not too small, busy with life but not crowded or loud. The Leiden Saturday market was wonderful, with lots of vendors selling fruits, vegetables, deli items, baked goods, etc.

Posted by
1601 posts

I can't offer advice specific to the Netherlands, but I am taking a similar scouting mission to the UK later this month. You're right to go when these places will be at their worst: winter weather, short days and no more holiday cheer to brighten it up. Do your research on housing availability and affordability (an issue everywhere these days, but definitely in the Netherlands), and try to find accommodation as close to your desired location as possible. A traditional B&B arrangement puts you in touch with a local person for expert advice. Google Maps can help determine if the town is big enough to have all the things you need/want (butcher, baker, candlestick maker, whatever you're after). I have done loads of Googling and YouTubeing to narrow my options, as well as looking at rental listings to determine real world conditions. A friend sent me a link to what I have started calling the "deprivation map," which shows areas of economic and other deprivation on an almost block-by-block basis. I don't know whether the Netherlands has such a thing.
The places I have narrowed to are generally not places Americans are familiar with, as I don't want to live in a tourist town (e.g., Delft). I plan to meet with an estate agent in each of the cities I'm considering so that I have a point of contact.
I wish you all the best on your scouting mission and future move.

Posted by
232 posts

No advice, but do you know the YouTubers Buncharted? They did a similar move to what you are thinking of doing, and now are influencers who taste Dutch food and rate it. Mostly they go for snacks and bakery items. They also talk about their ongoing integration into the Netherlands. Very entertaining.

Lavandula

Posted by
8630 posts

I don't know if prosperous, bustling towns in the most touristy heart of the Netherlands are quite the right choice. It can be easier to age in a city where you don't need a car every day, but have you lived in cities in the USA? I'll add a smaller town in the same area, because while visiting several times there, I specifically felt that there were prosperous locals milling all around the town, which is pretty. Longer walk from the rail station than places you listed, but perfectly "walkable."

I have never been to Maastrict, but I mention it because it has a high-prestige international art fair every year. Over there in the east, I found Nijmegen and Arnhem to be "local" places. And Germany is a great resource. I love Cologne. I love Leiden. Delft and the Hague physically abut.

Have you thought about whether you can learn Dutch? (I have poor language skills, especially at 74). I seem to remember that Garrison Keillor (sorry Garrison ... ) might have had to ask his Danish (?) wife to move away from Denmark because he just couldn't hack the language. (No insult intended, I would have had the same thing happen.)

After I wrote that last paragraph, I realized that you DID NOT SAY whether it's only a temporary move, not a retirement.

Posted by
11210 posts

I think Leiden ticks all of your boxes. It definitely has day-to-day livability and a wonderful vibe. There is great public transportation and it's an easy train ride to Amsterdam, the airport and just about every single city and town around there. It's a university town, so it definitely feels self-contained, and I don't think it would be considered commuter-oriented. You will find far less tourists than Haarlem and Delft.

Don't get me wrong, both are nice towns, as is The Hague, but out of the four you've listed, Leiden would win hands down for me. I absolutely loved it there and cwould easily go back for a longer visit. You might enjoy this trip report that was written a year or so ago by a frequent poster here on the forum. Jane and her husband, Stan, spent four nights in Leiden. https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/one-more-mini-trip-report-four-days-in-leiden-and-one-night-at-a-schiphol-hotel

Posted by
4908 posts

We’ve been to all these places a few times and we loved Rotterdam. It definitely has a younger vibe, great shopping, walkable, trains easy and central, great and diverse restaurants.

Posted by
33 posts

I assume you meet the requirements for a resident permit if neither one of you is a EU citizen. I can’t provide information on Den Hague. The energy of Leiden is more appealing to me than Delft. Leiden and Haarlem are both great small cities, but I like Leiden a bit more than Haarlem.