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Benelux trip plans

I'm thinking of about 2 weeks, though it could easily be extended. I want to travel by train and visit places I haven't been to yet, with open-jaw flights BRU/AMS. I'm interested in art, architecture, history, love museums and wandering in small towns.

Belgium - though I've changed trains in Brussels, I've never visited the city! Antwerp is high on my list. I've been to Bruges and Ghent and plan to skip them.

Luxembourg - is it worth going?

Netherlands - I've been to Rotterdam, Delft, The Hague, and Amsterdam. I will probably spend a couple days in A'dam, especially for the Rijksmuseum which I haven't been to since the major renovations some years ago.

When are the best times of year to visit? I'm retired, so I can go pretty much anytime. I don't like hot weather and I think the very short winter days (and cold weather) are not for me either.

What places do you recommend?

Posted by
8135 posts

Mechelen and Dinant in May. I am in the passport line at Schipol right now. Off to Keukenof it is the last weekend. Aachen is on the border with Germany if you have not been. I went there on a day trip from Liege.

Posted by
16117 posts

Let me respond regarding Luxembourg? Yes, I found it interesting.

Luxembourg city is good for a full day. I think there is enough to see to fill a day. A second day could be used to visit Vianden Castle.

Remember, all public transportation in the country of Luxembourg--trains, buses, trams--are free. Inncluding inside Luxembourg City

I visited in the spring.

Posted by
15777 posts

Hey Jazz - have a great time. Hope you write about it later.

Great to know, Frank. Thanks

Posted by
7798 posts

In case you don't have these links:

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/belgium/day-trips-from-brussels-besides-bruges-and-ghent

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/belgium/day-trips-from-brussels-768c7c85-75b9-4374-ad13-ae36967bc521

I don't know about post-Covid, but both Belgium and the Netherlands used to have an Open Monuments Day weekend in September, with access to places not usually open to the public. The last time I did it the paperback guide was only in Dutch, and only printed the month before.

Netherlands notes:

The very important KMSKA art museum in Antwerp reopens after 5+ years of renovation, I think in September, 2022. If you really like art museums you might have the opportunity to add Lille, France. Ostend may be a bit of a beerhall in the summer but is unlike the non-coastal cities in the same area. I went there to follow the trail of painter James Ensor. Artist Rik Wouters is associated with Mechelen. Of course the excellent open-air museum in Bokrijk is better in good weather. After a certain number of visits you have to decide whether you need to see another small medieval town square and cathedral. I mean like Tongeren or Hasselt, say.

Edit: Having said that about town squares, I should say a word about "How many Beguinages do you need to see?" Certainly Bruges' is the most famous, and quite big, but it's not my favorite. For one, it is too gentrified, by buildings redeveloped into gracious modern apartments-despite UNSECO WHS status. I rather like Leuven's (city bus ride from the real town center) and Turnhout's the best, because they have a real feel of an enclosed quarter, and are much less crowded than Bruges. Turnhout's has a museum, not open every day. Leuven looks reminiscent of Bruges', and has a nice church still in daily use, with a striking completely abstract modern Stations of the Cross. Turnhout has a senior center where you can get coffee and cake, outside the locals' meal hours.

I wrote that Mechelen's is a ghost of a Beguinage, and that's why you need to see a few well-preserved ones to appreciate the winding (and very quiet) but modernized street in Mechelen. You have to watch for remaining stone ornaments and Saints along the walls, for example.

Somehow, I have missed the Antwerp Beguinage, so I can't report on it.

I should also mention the Antwerp red-light district, Schippersstraat (That would be the name, wouldn't it!) near the MAS museum. I don't like the voyeuristic, sin-tourism aspect of red-light districts, but it was interesting to me how sanitized and silent the same street is all day. The Netherlands-ish street urinals simply don't exist until the opening hour, and the show-windows are invisible. Note: This Schippersstraat report is 6 or 8 years old.

Not saying it suits your needs, but there used to be an hourly bus from BRU to the side of the main train station in Antwerp. One stop, at a ring-road hotel.

Netherlands notes:
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/netherlands/amsterdam-to-brussels-to-brugge-back-to-amsterdam-by-train

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/netherlands/day-trips-from-delft

Posted by
2072 posts

A daytrip to Trier can make staying in Luxembourg City more interesting, takes 1h with the train. Not only worthwile for the many Roman sites but also the Karl Marx Haus, giving insight in an important piece of 19th century history.

Mechelen is much overlooked but very lovely and agree that it’s certainly worth putting on your list, easy stop underway from Brussels to Antwerp. The latter has several interesting museums like Plantin-Moretus, Rubenshuis, MAS and so on, further the Diamant district and Zurenborg with it’s early 20th architecture.

Posted by
2176 posts

Luxembourg sounds perfect for you, but don’t stay in Luxembourg City. Instead, base yourself in lovely little Ettelbruck, which is a transportation hub for those free buses and trains. It has a great market square lined with restaurants and shops, and a farmers market on Friday.

From here, make day trips: to Diekirch, for the amazing WWII museum; to Clervaux, for the famous Family of Man photographic exhibit, which travelled the world and is now permanently displayed there; and to Vianden to see the castle.

Luxembourg is a beautiful, peaceful little country. We went in mid-September and had perfect weather.

Posted by
14608 posts

I just got back from Belgium and Netherlands although I was on a non-Rick Steves tour.

I'd say to go in spring but try to avoid Easter, the week before and after, as well as King's Day for Netherlands unless you enjoy big crowds. By this last week schools were back in session after being off for spring holidays or whatever they call it. The Kroller-Mueller Museum on Tuesday was rammed with school groups. They were 12-13 years old and pretty hilarious. They also wanted to practice their English!

Posted by
2577 posts

Jazz+Travels, how were the lines at Schipol?

Posted by
15777 posts

Thank you all for the information. It sounds like the best time to visit is spring so I've put the trip on my calendar for 2023 and I'll be back for more help down the line.