Venice: Stay in Santa Croce or Castello?

Your tour hotel will be in the San Marco neighborhood, so I like the idea of Santa Croce neighborhood for variety. It’s a nice side to walk on, or to start just canal joy-riding from what is typically the “end” of the line. Google maps will get your started on vaporetto and walking routes, as well as ACTV for official timetables.

The Santa Croce location is interesting, but if I were vegan I would value the kitchen access above all else. The location of Istituto San Giuseppe looks fine to me—-we spent a month in a Castello apartment not far from there, a bit north on Campo San Lio. We quickly learned the routes to avoid crowds heading between San Marco and the Rialto Bridge. There are several markets in the area for grocery shopping, and we also enjoyed shopping for fruits and vegetables at Rialto market in the morning.

With a 3-night stay, I would not give any weight at all to the convenience of being able to walk to my lodging from the Piazzale Roma bus station. You would still need to find your way through the streets to the convent. For Istituto San Giuseppe, you would simply take the vaporetto to Rialto (the main Rialto stop, not Rialto Mercato) and walk from there.

Stay in Santa Croce, it’s a quiet residential neighborhood and has one of the best Campos in Venice. Campo San Giacomo Della Orio is a cozy gathering place for kids and adults who live there in the buildings surrounding the Campo. Stores, cafes and restaurants are plentiful in the area.

You can figure out your food but to have a place to walk to and relax and hang out is irreplaceable. It is unique and you will love it. I just spent 9-10 days there most evenings with my tour mates on a small group tour of Venice. This Campo is also great for people watching.

By the way, are you taking the 17 Days Best of Italy tour? That was my first introduction to Italy in 2016, what an amazing tour! You will love it.

Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio is my favorite campo in Venice by far.

We happened across it while wandering around one day; there was a local festival going on, with a small band playing (surrounded by a circle of straw bales for seating) and tables and booths set up with political and activist literature. We enjoyed discussing the “No Grandi Navi” movement with some ardent advocates (with whom we agree), and learning about other issues from the literature on offer.

We make a point of walking there almost daily during our days in Venice. But since walking is tour main activity in Venice, we don’t feel the need to stay near there.

Another vote for the former convent in Santa Croce.
It will take you about 10 minutes to walk there from the bus station area, with only two or three small bridges.
You are traveling light, so very easy.
And as someone else said: you can then explore that end of Venice away from tour groups and just be in the everyday of the city.
So much to see in that area!

I am responding to the "female, traveling solo" part of your post. I know the challenges of budgets, etc. but I want to encourage you to make sure that you spend what you need to spend to enjoy yourself and feel good about where you are staying. If it costs more to have a place where you feel secure or have access to the kitchen to meet your dietary needs, go for it. In the end, you will be glad that you did.

I am sure that you will have a wonderful time in Venice and on your tour.

I would go for Santa Croce, having spent a heap of time there - like a couple of months.
Download the app Chebateo. It links to the vaporetto (water bus) timetable. Plug in departure and arrival stops (Say San Basilio and Torcello) and the app gives you times and boat changes if any.

Wow, thank you everyone for your thoughtful replies and considerations along your experiences in Venice! Given your feedback, and, hearing that the tour group will stay closer to San Marco the next week, and learning that I can keep a few things in the fridge at the Santa Croce convent, I will go with that option. The rooms look rather spacious and have a/c, and a back garden. The google map shows a very simple route to the convent, in the western part of Santa Croce where the sidewalks seem wider than most. I will be able to drop my luggage and head out to explore. YAY!

I like that the vaporettos start nearby. Great point Laura, thank you! I found a few places to try: a vegan restaurant in Dorsoduro called La Tecia Vegana, a bio coop, and a tiny crepe place in Cannaregio. The gelato shop in the Campo San Giocomo Dell' Orrio even has vegan options. I"ll be sure to visit the suggested Rialto market, maybe for picnic items to take along on the island tours.

Again, thank you! It will be a long wait for June, but the anticipation and planning is also fun for me, especially here on the travel forum. :)

@ Judy B: I had recently read your fabulous Postcard from Italy post and was planning to walk through that special campo on my daily outings. The gelato shop there has vegan options, too. Score!

Yes, I join the Best of Italy that Sunday. Everyone raves about it, and I am excited for the different locations. It's my first time in Italy so I appreciate everyone's input.

When heading over to the Rialto Mercato to stock up don't sleep in. It isn't for late sleepers. There are two pretty distinct parts, the fish (many you will never have seen before, even as a vegan you may enjoy the atmosphere) and the fruit & veg. Be prepared for some seriously fresh and exceedingly tasty and fragrant produce.

Just a note on the Casa Caburlotto convent. I stayed there last year and will be going back tomorrow. If coming from Piazale Roma and instead of going in the street of the convent. If you continue one block further there is a little supermarket which is super cheap. I bought a 1,5 liter water bottle there for 40 cents.
And there is a gigantic Coop supermarket with an inbuilt farmacy at the station, just accross the water of the Grand Canal.

Nigel: thank you! I’ll set my alarm early to see the market in all its glory. A great start to the day.

Nathalie: what a coincidence! Thanks for sharing these tips on the markets. I love a good bargain. will pound the water and the pavement 😎. I’m also happy to know you are staying twice at the convent. What a treat. I hope to hear more about your journey!

Happy travels!

We went to the markets in August. Such fun! We left our apartment at 7:30 am and when we arrived some places were still setting up. We bought fish and lots of vegetables to make for dinner.

I happened to see this post when looking for my review of La Tecia Vegana from 2017 for another thread: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/italy-reviews/vegan-in-venice

Both of us are vegan. We always get a kitchen, and find shopping at the local farmers markets and grocery stores to be great fun.

Dessert is something of a rarity for us, in part because decent vegan options are generally scarce. Much to our delight, every gelateria seems to have vegan options, yay! Check out the sorbetto flavors, delightful seasonal fruits. There are also some non-dairy based chocolate ones, which Denis enjoyed immensely.

Are you familiar with Happy Cow?

Oh my goodness, my friends and I stayed in a convent in Venice back in 2001 when we were backpacking in college!! I'm thinking it might have been a different one though because it was not on the main island of Venice. They had a strict curfew and my friend was terrified they were going to lock us out one night when we were racing to get back and the vaporetto was taking longer than anticipated! The nuns also turned out the lights promptly at bedtime and we were not allowed to talk - they would clap at us and tell us to be quiet! This was in a dorm room. That sure brings back funny memories!!

LOL, I will have a single room, and this is supposedly a "former" convent, so hopefully the environment will not be as strict as the dorm-style set up from where you stayed. I'm looking forward to being out and about exploring Venice!

It's all good memories! :) Enjoy your time in Venice!!

Oh, this brings back a funny memory! I was in Europe right after high school with the 4-H Ambassador Program for 40 days. Our night in Belgium was at a convent. Apparently another girl & I were talking during an announcement because we missed hearing that there was a curfew. We were walking together in the evening, and when we returned, the gate was locked! As I was giving her a boost over the top to try to unlock the door for me, a couple of nuns came running to help us! Now at 65 years old, I am past climbing over gates! Yes, Shawn, be sure to ask! 😉

Shawn,
I am enjoying this thread referencing “convent stays.” Although I can’t comment on your convent choice, I can say we had a wonderful experience in a former Monastery! We were on a culinary tour in southern Italy and spent 2 nights in incredible Maratea. https://www.italytraveller.com/en/z/la-locanda-delle-donne-monache Lovely property, incredible cuisine (amazing Tuscan Soup we ever ate!) That said, I hope your Monastery experience is as memorable! Enjoy the vibe of Venice. ;)