Puglia itinerary - September

You missed my favorite place, Polignano a Mare, a charming town on the Adriatic Sea.
I would replace Monopoli with Polignano a Mare. They are five minutes apart by train.
We loved Puglia but did not care for Matera which is in Basilicata, not in Puglia. We loved all the other places you list.
This remains one of our favorite trips.

Hi, we have a day trip with a boat ride in Polignano a Mare. I’ve seen in pictures how beautiful it is there. Very excited.

Your trip looks to be well-balanced and thought out.
It's true that Matera is not in Puglia but in Basilicata but it's so close that it makes sense to visit it. Of course, opinions differ but it's a unique and special place. The view across the sassi from in front of the cathedral, especially at night-time is unique.
As for the extra night, I'd add it on to Bari because thanks to the excellent train service up and down the coast you could have a day trip to Trani https://slowtravelitalyspain.blogspot.com/2023/04/why-i-love-trani.html , or Giovinazzo maybe

I'd prefer to stay in Trani over Bari, although you'd have to research transit options for daytrips (probably more from Bari).

We visited Puglia and used trains/buses only two years ago. It worked out ok but if I was visiting again I'd probably lean towards getting a car. The issue is their schedule becomes your schedule and depending on which town you're in there might be a few hours between trains with more clustered in mornings and afternoons for commuters and schoolkids. It's doable, don't get me wrong, but a car adds convenience. I strongly recommend getting the Trenitalia app on your phone since many stations are not staffed and even the locals had trouble getting machines to work; some of them only accepted coins and not bills. You'll need data service in Italy to use the Trenitalia app. Some of the trains were on the regional train network but the Trenitalia app still sold tickets for them.

I suggest doing a careful day-by-day itinerary before you leave for daytrips. In Puglia we found restaurants were open for lunch until around 2pm and then closed until dinner around 7-8pm. Stores closed by 1pm and didn't reopen until 4-5pm. Often churches and museums are closed in the afternoon as well. So for most tourists they get out in the morning and visit, have lunch, then relax in the afternoon. If using public transit you'll want to look up train/bus times before you go. For example on one daytrip the trains back to Lecce were around 1pm and 3pm. If we didn't eat an early lunch and catch the 1pm train then we had time to kill with not that much open to see, and even in Sept the outdoor temperature was in the 80's or hotter.

I guess I am less adventurous than you all. We were hoping to find a base city and take day trips via car. Can any of you suggest no more than two places in Puglia over 6 or 7 days?

@sarasotarockville,

Please start a new post, so people answering your question don’t pop up as replies emailed to Mary.

Hi Mary,

I just returned from the Puglia area last month for the second time. It’s a wonderful area! I didn’t rent a car - just used the trains & an occasional bus. I will add my trip reports below, if they can be helpful to you…or get you even more excited!

Comments about your itinerary:

• What are you planning to do in Bari? The old Bari Vecchio where I also stayed both years is nice for a night or two - personally I wouldn’t stay there three nights. I was there both years for the San Nicola event. Bari Vecchio is a bit of a walk down to Bari Centrale, if you’re planning multiple day trips.
• Matera was fantastic! And I loved the lodging where I stayed! Sometimes the setting of the lodging can set the tone, and it was wonderful with the clean cave room with great wifi, and an amazing overlook view breakfast/evening spot!
• Monopoli by bus out to Locorotondo and/or Alberobello can be iffy. I gave up trying to go from Monopoli to Conversano and just stayed an extra night in Monopoli. Instead, I would switch your order of cities. Go to Locorotondo right after Matera. You can take the train (about 90 minutes) from Matera to Bari and switch over to a bus that goes to Alberobello & Locorotondo.
• Ostuni. Hmm. There’s mixed reviews of it, and I could sit on either side. I do think you’re going to feel like it’s a dirtier, larger version of gorgeous little Locorotondo after just being there. An option if you do decide to drop it is to stay two nights at Martina Franca. It’s a quick train ride from Locorotondo. And then a train onto Lecce. From Lecce, you could end at Monopoli by train and have an easy train up to Bari.
• I really liked my two days in Monopoli, but I agree with Suki. Polignano a Mare is stunning! And it’s the atmosphere when the day trippers are gone - early morning & evening, that makes it unforgettable!

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/3-week-italy-trip-to-puglia-plus-tivoli-rome-may-2025

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/italy/my-1-month-independent-trip-to-southern-italy-tribute-to-my-husband

Hi Jean,
Thank you for your detailed reply. I switched up the itinerary a bit & after reading your post I’m happy with my new arrangements. We don’t arrive in Bari until close to dinner time on night 1. We have 2 more nights there. I was considering Trani for a day trip. However, I think exploring the old town will give us enough to do.
Off to Matera for 2 nights. Trying to navigate public transit to & from Matera was quite the challenge. We bit the bullet & budgeted for transfers. We are actually staying at Palazzo Degli Abati in a cave room. It looks beautiful & you just confirmed it. Yay! Monopoli for 4 nights. Our B&B is on the water. Day trip to Polignano w a boat trip planned. We are planning to do beach days in Monopoli & chill. Bus to Martina Franca for 3 nights. Day trips to Locorotondo & Alberobello. I was thinking of hitting Alberobello in the late afternoon & staying for dinner. From what I’ve read it’s easy enough to get bus or train tickets at the station in Martina Franca for day trips. Last stop Lecce for 4 nights. Ostuni (maybe, based on your review). We have a few day trips planned to travel the coast around the heel. Finally back to Bari & staying by the airport for our flight the next day. I have most of our bus & train tickets booked already. I use the a Trainline app when traveling in Europe. Not sure if it’s the best, but it’s easy & convenient. I’m still researching some things to do to fill in a few days. Do you convert to euros in the US or in Italy? I usually convert before going but I’ve read it’s easy to purchase euros at an ATM. I’ve just haven’t yet. Again, thanks for reaching out. I so appreciate your feedback. Any favorite restaurants to recommend? Three months & counting! Very excited! Looking forward to reading about your next adventure. Best, Maryjo

Hi MaryJo,

For money, load a credit card onto ApplePay on your phone. It is so easy to pay with it, and they’re used to that method. I rarely needed to access my physical credit card. I brought a couple hundred Euro with me and only spent about 50 of it - just because I always pay cash to taxis.

For any remaining train tickets, download the Trenitalia app. It’s also very easy to use. If you do go to Ostuni, get the ticket for Ostuni Citta instead of just Ostuni. That gives you both the train tickets to the Ostuni train station down at sea level, plus the bus that goes from the station up higher to the city.

Beach days in Monopoli - are you planning for taxis out to surrounding beaches?

The tiny restaurant at Polignano a Mare is my favorite! They only have six small tables, so reservations days ahead are essential. Eat there and take the train back, or a taxi. Just go onto their website and reserve through WhatsApp. WhatsApp is another app you will want. All of the restaurants and lodging use it. The restaurant is this one:
https://www.mintcucinafresca.com/

In Matera, this gelato is outstanding!….and I have a lot of experience with gelato. : ). Their black licorice is the best licorice one I have ever eaten.
I Vizi degli Angeli - Laboratorio di Gelateria Artigianale

Hi Jean,
Again thanks for the info. I have my credit cards already loaded into my Apple wallet. The beach club I made a reservation at actually has a shuttle from a few spots in Monopoli. If that doesn’t work out a bus or taxi is my next option. I will check out your restaurant recommendation. Ciao!

Have a great time! It looks like a wonderful itinerary!

FYI, absolutely everywhere we visited in Puglia was happy to accept Apple Pay and Google Wallet. We used no cash whatever during our month in Italy.