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Lakes Maggiore and Orta advice please

I could use some input as to a trip I'm planning for about the third week in September to the Italian/Swiss lakes. This trip will be part of a much longer trip. My main concern is transportation between places. Currently only the winter schedule for the boats is on their website and the most recent summer schedule I can find is from 2016 and it's pretty hard to read so not sure I'm doing it right. This is my tentative plan and I'd love anyone's input or suggestions to improve it.

Lake Orta - Two nights (one full day as I will arrive in the early evening (from Bergamo) and leave pretty early in the morning the day I leave - heading to Stresa).

Stresa - Two nights (have been before and been to the islands so not planning on repeating those). Main thing I want to do is visit Santa Caterina in Laveno but I would also like to see the Rocca d’Angera. If I arrived midday is it possible to do one of those that afternoon and the other the following day, or is possible to do both on one day?

Locarno - Three nights – one day trip by boat to Cannero and Cannobio. Having trouble reading the ferry schedules (and the most recent summer schedule that I can find is a few years old) but looks like there is at least one daily from Stresa to Locarno taking about 3 hours.

After Locarno I'm heading further into Switzerland, first stop Bellinzano.

Thanks

Posted by
5206 posts

Isabel,
Regarding transportation from Lake Orta to Stresa: It’s definitely possible to do this by train, but I wouldn’t recommend it, especially if traveling solo.

I traveled this route in reverse, and found myself in a deserted train station where I had to make a train transfer. You can read about this experience on my trip report here

I’d suggest taking a half day tour to Lake Orta (from Stresa) instead of dealing with the transportation issue.
When I was planning my trip, I’d contacted my hotel and they’d referred me to a travel agency that provided this service. I can dig through my notes if you’re interested.

BTW, when I visited Lago Maggiore (September 2017) there was only one ferry going to Locarno.

If you’re interested you can read about my day trip to beautiful Cannobio via bus.

I’d be happy to answer other questions.

I’ll check the ferry schedule and get back to you.

Enjoy your trip!

Posted by
5206 posts

Isabel,
The bus that Roberto suggested is a good idea, except that it stops running sometime in the beginning of September.
When I was there, it stopped running on September 10.

Posted by
847 posts

Thanks so much for the replies.

Really good to know about that train station. I will be sure not to do that. I really would like to see Orta and it really is looking like there aren't great solutions. It looks like I will be there just about a week after that bus stops running (but while I'm disappointed I'm certainly glad I'm finding out now and not later).

So far this is what my research has shown:
- the train station in Orta is a 20 minute walk to the main part of the village but no sidewalks so you are walking on a busy road.
- I have not found any great hotels there that I want to stay in.
- There isn't all that much to do so two nights is probably more than I need.
- But the day trip by bus won't be possible as it will have stopped running.
- The train trip going through Cuzzago is a bad idea

Priscilla, do you remember how much the taxi was between Stresa and Orta? And were they readily available in Orta (which obviously is where you got it from)?

Now I'm thinking, that while I usually hate taxis and the cost of them, it might be cheaper and a better idea to just do a taxi day trip from Stresa. I'm finding hotels in Stresa that look good for half the price of the one I was considering in Orta (€80 vs €150)

Your Cannobio day trip looks interesting.

Roberto thanks for the link to that bus schedule. So glad I found out now.

Posted by
13925 posts

I've stayed in Orta San Giulio on a Rick Steves tour. It was the end of the tour so we were there 1 night on the tour then I added a night and I'd agree another night was too much. We did the Sacro Monte in the AM of our full day and were ready to go. We did the motorboat launch out to the island the afternoon on the tour.

For an exit strategy our guide had everyone who needed a train ticket buy them at our stop prior to this as there is no ticket kiosk there. For the rest of us, she ordered taxis to go to various locations - Milan airport or city center Milan. 5 of us shared a van to city center Milan but I don't remember the charge. Whatever it was it was worth it, lol.

We stayed in Hotel La Bussola and it was raining so much on the last night we actually ate at the restaurant there and it was quite good. The owners are Italian but as the guide explained more "Italian-Swiss" so their manner had more of a Swiss no-nonsense feel than an Italian feel if that makes any sense at all. I would stay there again although no need for me to revisit this area. Not that it was uninteresting, just that was enough. I read one of the reviews on Trip Advisor with someone complaining about the hotel not turning the AC on in late September. They said it was cool enough at night not to need AC. I can definitely see the wife of the ownership team saying something along those lines. Rooms were very clean and comfortable and it was one of the biggest "single" rooms I've ever had. Mine had a balcony facing the lake.

There was a wonderful gelateria on the main piazza called Gelateria artiginale Eliot. I should have ordered the fig sorbetto the first day because by the next day it was gone as were the figs from the owner's front yard which he used to make it.

Posted by
5206 posts

Isabel,

So far this is what my research has shown:

  • the train station in Orta is a 20 minute walk to the main part of the village but no sidewalks so you are walking on a busy road.
  • I have not found any great hotels there that I want to stay in.
  • There isn't all that much to do so two nights is probably more than I need.
  • But the day trip by bus won't be possible as it will have stopped running.
  • The train trip going through Cuzzago is a bad idea

Priscilla, do you remember how much the taxi was between Stresa and
Orta? And were they readily available in Orta (which obviously is
where you got it from)?

Here are a few thoughts to address your research conclusions:

  • The road from the train station to Sacro Monte was pleasant and it
    was not particularly busy in terms of traffic. However, I presume
    you'll have luggage so it's best to book a taxi as there are no taxis
    waiting outside the station (at least this was the case in 2017)

  • The tiny island of San Giulio is very picturesque and I'm glad I
    visited it.

  • I just checked Trenitalia, and there appears to be a train departing
    from Orta-Miasino at 7:40 and you won't have to transfer in Cuzzago
    but in Domodossola instead.

  • The taxi, actually a private transfer (recommended by receptionist at Hotel Leon d'Oro on Piazza Motta) from Orta to Stresa was €50.

If you do end up going to Lago Orta, make sure you have a creamy and delicious gelato at 'Gelateria Arte del Gelato'!

Edited to add...

Isabel, I found the travel agency that provides the day tour from Stresa to Lake Orta.
Now I remember why I didn't take this tour, it was (is) only offered on Thursday afternoons, and I wasn't there on that day.
If you're interested, you may consider sending them an email for more information.

Posted by
1626 posts

Hi, we live in Verbania, across the bay from Stresa so lots of experience exploring the lake by ferry.

There is a quick ferry from Stresa to the monastery, which is impressive, and great view as you approach by ferry.

The hydrofoil ferry takes you to Angera in under an hour. We went there for the first time in October. Well worth the visit. It’s about a 30 minute walk from the ferry terminal. You could easily spend 2-3 hours. There’s a multi room doll museum, and then make sure to get up to the top for the views- Stairs are kind of hidden in the back of the great hall. View of the tip of the Matterhorn.

I’ll pm you links to these sites.

Orta San Giulio is not the only UNESCO heritage site in the area. The series of Sacro Monte churches are scattered throughout the region. There is one within walking distance of Ghiffa. We’ve been there twice and NO people. Also Sacro Monte UNESCO site in Domodossola, walking distance from the train station. IMHO, Orta was very, very touristy.

Our favorite top of the mountain excursion is the bucket Gondola in LAveno. Take ferry from Stresa to Intra, change ferry to Laveno, then up to 1000 meters for a glass or bottle of wine to take in view. This is our must do adventure for our visiting friends. You could combine this with the Ghiffa UNESCO site if you got an early start.
Ferry to Intra, Bus to Ghiffa, Hike up to Sacro site, hike back to Intra, or back to Ghiffa and bus to Intra, then ferry to Lavena, up Bucket, then ferries back to Stresa.

Posted by
1626 posts

One more comment. We prefer Ascona to Locarno. More of a village feel than city feel.
At least 1 ferry per day to Locarno, sometimes two depending on the day of the week. The high speed ferry gets you there in half the time, but you are inside the ferry without the lake views. Since it sounds like you are doing one way, do the slow ferry with views.

Cannobio is a cute town to check out on the way to Ascona or Locarno. But if you break up your trip, you need to buy two separate ferry tickets.

Posted by
847 posts

Thanks so much for all that wonderful information. Based on all these comments and more research I think I will extend my time in Stresa and try to do Orta as a day trip. The site Priscilla gave for the travel agency with day trips looks promising. If their schedule is the same next year it would work for me. But if I can get a taxi/transfer for around €50 each way I would be willing to do that. It looks like as wonderful as Orta looks, and I do want to see it, between the trains and the hotels I would be better off just doing it as a day trip.

Karen - thanks so much for all that info and the link to "Barley's" site - I love it. How wonderful to be able to travel with him like that.

So my revised plan is 4 nights in Stresa with a day trip (somehow) to Lake Orta and visits to both Santa Caterina and Rocca d'Angera and one or both of the Laverno and Stresa mountain top visits. Then I'll take the ferry up to Locarno for three nights. One of the full days I'll do a partial day trip to Bellinzona and also visit Ascona and Cannobio.

Posted by
1626 posts

You might think about spending One night in Cannobio, than ferry the next day to Locarno or Ascona for two nights. While Stresa is a great location tends to be very Americanized with tourists. You will experience a different Italy in Cannobio, than Stresa.

I’ll see if I can find the 2019 summer ferry schedule and give you idea of when ferries go to Switzerland. The summer schedule is an eye chart with many exceptions (Sunday’s only, not Sunday’s, not weekdays, only Certan dates, only holidays, etc). I know how to read and have still misread for a certain day (as recent as Wednesday this week)

One other idea if you go to Laveno, is Villa Taranto. On ferry route between Intra and Stresa. Not crowded like the islands, and beautiful. Opens this year on March 12, just in time for visiting friends from Scotland.