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I left my heart in Lago Maggiore and in Lucca...

Wait, is this even possible!
Anyway, I loved visiting Lago Maggiore and Lucca.
I have a feeling I will end up liking all the places I plan to visit on my trip.

This is a continuation of my trip in progress.

On my last day spent in Lake Maggiore, I decided to go to Lake Orta.
I'd done research on the best way to get there via public transportation but unfortunately the direct bus from Stresa to Orta San Giulio only runs until Sept. 10th, so I took the train from Baveno to Orta -Miasino with a connection in Cuzzago. If you plan to visit Lake Orta, DO NOT take the train that connects in Cuzzago! Cuzzago's station is a tiny deserted, abandoned, dirty train station in the middle of NOWHERE!
I had 28 minutes to make my connection, and those were the longest 28 minutes of my life!
There were two young men who helped me find "the other station" hidden among the overgrown bushes and trees, otherwise I'd have missed my train connection. When I arrived to the "other station", (after crossing the railroad tracks & cautiously following two complete strangers!), there was a woman standing (no benches) and waiting for the train. I approached her and asked if I was in the right place, she said yes, but she also added the following; "questa è la prima e l'ultima volta che vengo a questo terrore di una stazione!" (this is the first and the last time I come to this terror of a station!)
The woman and I befriended each other as I related to her how the two men (who had boarded another train) were initially suspicious to me, had actually helped me find this hidden station. Even though she didn't speak English, she understood
my limited Italian and empathized with me.

Once I arrived to Orta- Miasino's station, I walked toward the TI office down the road only to find that it was closed! I found the Trenino, a smalll train for tourists that I'd planned to take to Sacro Monte, but was told that the train was for large groups, not just for one person. I walked up the hill to Sacro Monte where I found the perfect spot to take photos of the lake & the Island of San Giulio. After visiting some of the chapels depicting the life of St. Francis, I walked down to the city center on a serene promenade along the edge of the lake before arriving to Orta's main square, Piazza Motta.

I then took the ferry to Isola San Giulio, a very picturesque but tiny island with narrow cobble stone lanes. It took me 15 minutes to walk around the island, along the pathway of silence. The ferry returned promptly 25 minutes later to take me back to Piazza Motta. I then visited the beautiful church of Santa Maria Assunta just above the piazza.
After my experience at Cuzzago's station, I called my hotel and the owner explained to me that many of the small stations in the area are closed.
Since I didn't want to end up in another deserted train station, I decided to take a taxi back to Baveno. Better be safe than sorry.
The taxi driver was a friendly young man who asked me if I'd visited the mountain of Mottarone, to which I replied, no.
I told him that I was leaving the following day and had decided that I'd run out of time. Long story short, he convinced me that I'd not regret going up the mountain and experiencing the most magnificent views of the lakes and all the surrounding mountains. He was right!
I took the cable car then the chair lift to the summit of Mottarone, and the views were absolutely breathtaking!

Afterwards I decided to walk back to Stresa, but I turned right, instead of turning left, at the main road and ended up walking almost 3Km back to Baveno!
Just before reaching my hotel, I saw a man with two brown labradors who were swimming in the lake and fetching a stick; they were so cute!
I decided to eat dinner at my hotel once again since I was too tired to venture out again. My dinner was delicious; I ordered the fresh trout served with with a tasty tomato sauce on a bed of ratatouille.

Continued below...

Posted by
5293 posts

The following morning I took a train from Stresa to Lucca (via Milan and Florence)
When I arrived to La Romea B&B, I was met by the owner, Giulio.
He showed me which key opened the various doors, gave me a city map and pointed out favorite places to eat, favorite sites and favorite gelaterias. Since it was past lunch time, I decided to try the pizzeria near the b&b which is a very popular place (among locals & tourists) where delicious pizza is made in their wood burning oven and served all day long, namely, 'Pizza da Felice'. One can buy a piece (€1,40) or order a whole pizza. I had 2 pieces of the Margherita pizza and one piece of the Cecile ( chickpea) pizza. I preferred the Margherita pizza, it was crispy, tasty and
truly delicious!
I then walked to the church of San Giovanni to purchase a ticket for the Puccini Concert to be held at 7pm that evening.
I then walked to Piazza San Michele and took photos of the exterior of the beautiful church by the same name.
I also had fun strolling along Via Fillungo which is lined with a multitude of various shops.
After a while I walked back to my B&B, to change, then headed to the Puccini Concert which turned out to be great!
After the concert, I walked back to my B&B but managed to make a wrong turn and got lost. I noticed other tourists searching their city map, so presumed I was not the only one who was lost.
I then arrived to a small piazza with some ambulances and ambulance workers nearby. I asked for directions to my b&b and one of the man directed me to my b&b which was just a few meters away.
I slept like a rock that night since I was tired from the long day of travel.

The following morning after eating a delicious and hearty breakfast, I set out to explore the rest of beautiful Lucca.
First, I went to the nearby Conad market to buy some sweet green grapes (my favorite), water, and a slice of lemon yogurt cake that caught my eye. I then visited St. Michele church and walked around the city.

Since I was so tired from my long travel day the day before, I returned to my room at around 2pm (when I noticed that many of the shop owners were closing their businesses) to rest for a while.
After a nice rest and a cat nap, I headed out to explore a bit more. I walked toward the wall of the city and enjoyed joining the pilgrimage of people walking, running or riding their bicycles along the ramparts which surround the city.

After watching the sunset, I had a delicious dinner at a small restaurant, 'Tratoria de Ubaldo', recommended by the owners of my B&B, Giulio and Gaia.

The waiter spoke Spanish (he told me that he studied a semester in Madrid) and he recommended the pork served with a tomato & capers sauce and with creamy polenta. I also ordered a side of roasted vegetables. My dinner was very delicious and quite filling!
On the way back to my b&b I couldn't pass up the chance of having chocolate & coconut gelato for desert, Yum!

The following day I decided to take a day trip to Pistoia but was so glad to return to Lucca to enjoy my last day there.

My last night in Lucca was the night before The Rolling Stones concert, so there were many fans who decided to start partying early till the wee hours of the morning, and I had a difficult time falling asleep.
After breakfast I bid my b&b owners, Gaia & Giulio, farewell...

And... I do hope to return
to beautiful Lucca some day ;)

Priscilla

Posted by
11613 posts

Priscilla, thanks for the heartfelt report. It brought back such memories of Cuzzago train station, where several passengers were going to switch trains for a stop further on, but the conductor noticed "Cuzzago" on the ticket and talked us all out of it, going one stop further. Since the Cuzzago stop took a few minutes, he got off the train and showed me the thicket of trees and bushes I would have to walk through to the other station - from your report it seems that you were doing this in reverse.

At least those longest 20 minutes make a good story! and the kindness of strangers...

I love Lucca, it does keep calling me back. Ferrara has the same effect.

Posted by
6525 posts

Great report, Priscilla. We loved the Sacro Monte, once we finally got up to the top!

Posted by
5293 posts

Zoe,

I wish someone had warned me about not connecting in Cuzzago!

Yes, I was truly grateful for the kindness I received from these two strangers!

Jane,
The man working on the Trenino (small train) said something like this; It's not too far, you just go up the hill about 300 meters.
It was a cold morning when I arrived to Orta's station but I had to start peeling off my layers as I climbed that hill to Sacro Monte!
The views of the lake were very rewarding though ;-)

Posted by
7799 posts

Priscilla, I'm glad you're enjoying your Italy adventures and keeping a sense of humor throughout those "Great Story" experiences!

Thanks for the input on Spain. I'm in one of your favorites tonight - Cordoba, and I had coconut & chocolate gelato today, too! Actually, I had a 2nd small dish with coconut & pistachio this evening because the coconut was exceptional!

Enjoy the rest of your trip!

Posted by
16537 posts

Great report, Priscilla! Those uncertain moments can be unsettling at the time but can make for good stories later, eh?

Posted by
770 posts

Thanks so much for posting, Priscilla! I love reading about your adventure!

Posted by
10187 posts

Love it that both Priscilla and Zoe have "experiences" of the Cuzzago station!! (Zoe's in being warned away and getting to see a little bit of it!!)

Sounds like you're having a fabulous trip Priscilla.

Posted by
4656 posts

Thanks for sharing your report Priscilla. I have Google maps open to follow your trip as it is a new area for me. I sometimes wish I had not found this Trip Report part of RS. Way too many interesting places to read about and consider adding to my mental bucket list. My list is longer than I have years left to travel in, but it is fun reading, dreaming and planning (particularly as an escape to long cold Ottawa winters).

Safe travels Priscilla.

Posted by
11775 posts

OMG, Priscilla! That remote station experience would have been alarming even with a travel companion. Alone? Bravissima! Thank goodness you have some skills in Italian!

We loved La Romea in Lucca!

Posted by
5293 posts

Jean,
I hope you enjoyed your visit to Córdoba! Enjoy the rest of your time in Spain!

Kathy,
Yes, it makes a good story now, but it sure was a scary moment!

Christine,
I'm glad you're enjoying reading about my adventures.

Kim,
Honestly, I never invisioned having such a fun solo trip!

Maria,
I know what you mean, my bucket list keeps getting longer too!
Your trip is coming up soon, right? Have an amazing trip!

Laurel,

I certainly did NOT feel bravissima!

La Romea B&B was great! The owners, Gaia and Giulio are lovely people.
Thanks for the recommendation!
Buon viaggio!

Posted by
5293 posts

Thanks Webmaster for deleting the ad that appeared on this thread this morning!