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N Italy itinerary updated - thoughts?

Posted by (NC, US) on

***UPDATE: Thanks to those of you who gave us feedback on this and our other itinerary post, we think we've finally come up with a plan that will work for us. I've posted the new schedule outline in the comment dated 04/14/23 @ 11:38 AM. We continue to welcome & appreciate all suggestions and feedback!

Many of you have graciously offered feedback on an itinerary I posted a few days ago, for which we are most grateful. We're not faced with a conundrum that has become a tipping point on our itinerary, so I thought I'd bring that separately for a more focused answer. I hope this is allowed given the other thread is still active.

Here's our quandary: Our original itinerary had us arriving from Zurich to Varenna, then on to Stressa, Milan, Verona, The Dolomites, FVG, Padua, Modena, Ravenna, ending in Venice (Sep 6 - Oct 10). Sounded perfect. Then we found out we could catch the final performance of the Verona Opera Festival's 100th season on Sept 9th, an opportunity we decided not to miss. That threw the plan off because it put Verona out of logical order. After revising our itinerary to start with Milan, then Verona, then Varenna & Stressa before proceeding on, we posted it on the forum for critique. We got some great feedback about allocation of our days and what to add/subtract. As a result, we're wrestling whether to drop Lake Como & Lake Maggiore since they'd be backtracking in our itinerary, spending time instead at Lake Garda. Here are three options we're considering, all assuming arrival from Zurich by train:

  1. Start in Milan (2nts), drop Lake Como & Lake Maggiore, head to Verona (3-4nts), add 3nts in Malcescine on Lake Garda, then on to The Dolomites, FVG, etc. That would give us 1-2 nights extra to play with in the plan, which is always great, but we'd miss two lakes that sound amazing for another that sounds amazing in a different way
  2. Start in Milan (2nts), arrive Verona the day before the performance & head to Stressa the morning after it (2nts, not 4), then spend more time between Stressa & Varenna before heading to The Dolomites, FVG, etc. We'd lose time in Verona but gain more time on the two lakes. It's still backtracking, but not as hectic-sounding.
  3. Start with Varenna or Stressa (not both) for 3 nights, drop Milan, and train to Verona on the day of the performance rather than the night before. After a few nights in Verona, head north to The Dolomites and so on. Not sure how to weigh this trade-off.

Thoughts? Other options?

Posted by
382 posts

You can have a fabulous trip at Lake Garda. It's stunning. Lots of gorgeous spots and amenities, and it's where Italians, Austrians and Germans vacation. Relatively undiscovered for people from the US, which is why you don't see it mentioned as much here.

We stayed at Torbole, next to Riva Del Garda, which is breathtaking, but there are stunning spots all around the lake.

I would not track back to do the other lakes. They are wonderful too, but not really logical for your trip this time. I've done Maggiore, Lugano & Como and I love all the Italian Lakes.

I'm sure the Opera will be a highlight

Posted by
219 posts

Thanks @Nickelini. I've heard some wonderful things about Lake Garda. Your info is helping to tip the scales in its favor. :)

Posted by
7886 posts

If you decide on Stresa, I would go with Option 3. You can take the small Alibus (reserve it) from Malpensa directly to Stresa without needing to take the train into Milano Centrale and then up to Stresa. I’ve done it both ways, so whatever is easier with your flight arrival time.

Then take the train back to Milano Centrale afterwards to transfer to a train to Verona. I saw you’re attending the opera at Verona’s Roman Arena. It’s so special to attend it under the stars, hearing an Italian opera in Italy! I did carry a light sweater and was glad to have it towards the end of the opera. And look up the reason for the candles or phone lights now at the beginning of it. : )

(Repeating my answer - not sure which of your posts you’re wanting to track now.)

Hi, a comment for your lake time, we have stayed at Varenna at Lake Como with the RS Best of Italy tour, and we also have stayed on our own at Stresa at Lake Maggiore. During subsequent trips where I was traveling solo in Italy, I have returned two more times and stayed at Stresa.

I love the history of Stresa with the elegant hotels from the years of luxury train travel for royalty, celebrities, etc. Yet, the gorgeous Borromeo islands are what’s extra special for me. There’s actually a special small boutique hotel on Isola Bella, and I have stayed there twice. If you stay, be sure to get a room with a balcony overlooking the lake - Boutique Hotel Elvezia. I love the feeling of relaxation & soaking up the beauty and ambiance there! Erin’s comment above mentioned their nice restaurant, too.
Karen, who lived there, has listed several things to do, so I won’t repeat them.

Posted by
1321 posts

Personally, I'd drop Milan. I like #3 of the choices you have listed. I have been to the three lakes you are considering... each are unique and special. Stresa is a great walkable town, but the view is not as specular in my opinion as the views of Lake Como from Bellagio or Varenna (I'd pick Bellagio over Varenna as we find Varenna very sleepy). If you add nights to Verona you can easily day tip from there to Lake Garda

Posted by
11609 posts

If you decide on Lake Garda and Malcesine, I recommend the hotel we stayed in right on the water, has it’s own beach, Il Castello.

Posted by
219 posts

Thanks to all who've given us helpful and insightful feedback on this and my original post. We regrouped and talked about what we really wanted to see, and we've decided to do a variation of our original plan of spending time on Lakes Como & Maggiore and then added time on Lake Garda (your suggestions/feedback hooked us!). To do this, we cut Verona to basically just a day trip to see the Opera, plus we stole a day here and there from the rest of the itinerary, yet we were able to keep our 3nt-minimum-per-location preference except for a couple of spots out of necessity. We're hoping this outline will give us both the beauty of the lakes & mountains as well as the culture of the cities. Here's what we've come up with (showing nights stayed in each location):

  • Sept 5 Flights CLT-PHL-ZRH arriving Zürich 8:55am
  • Sept 6-8 Milan: arrive via regional trains from Zürich over the Bernina Pass. Duomo rooftop tour, Cimitero Monumentale, Last Supper? Stay in Milan
  • Sept 9 Verona: check all but daypack at Milan locker, early train to Verona. Wander town, evening performance at Verona Opera Festival. Stay in Verona
  • Sept 10-12 Lake Como: train to Varenna via Milan (pick up luggage). Enjoy the mid-lake towns & ferries. Stay in Varenna or Bellagio
  • Sept 13-14 Lake Maggiore: train to Stresa via Milan. Visit Borromean Isles. Stay Stresa
  • Sept 15-17 Lake Garda: train to Verona via Milan, pick up car in Verona, drive to Malcescine. Enjoy the lake beauty. Stay in Malcescine
  • Sept 18-22 Dolomites: Alpe di Suissi, Bolzano (Ötzi), Castlerotto, Cordina d'Ampezzo, Tre Cime hike, possibly Bullaccia Loop; take gondolas; be entranced by the scenery. Stay in Ortisei, Castelerotta, or Cortina?
  • Sept 23-25 FVG: pastoral beauty, wine/cheese/meat artisans, possibly Trieste if time allows. Stay in Udine?
  • Sept 26-28 Treviso/Vicenza/Padua: Drop off car, use trains from now on. Scrovengi chapel/baptistry/museum, other sites need research. Stay in Padua?
  • Sept 29-Oct 4 Parma/Modena/Bologna/Ferrara/Ravenna: Italian Food Days tour, other sites need research. Stay 3 nights in Modena or Bologna, 3 nights in Ravenna
  • Oct 5-9 Venice: Burano and outer islands, Special Itineraries tour of Doges Palace, St Marks, exploring the lesser-traveled areas. Stay in Venice.
  • Oct 10: Flights VCE-PHL-CLT departing Venice at 12:15
Posted by
7886 posts

As someone who absolutely loves Stresa, I would take it out of your current itinerary for Sept. 13-14. You have a lot of lake time. Instead, I would consider a couple of nights in Bergamo - stay in the upper Citta Alta. It will give you a break from the lakes, and it doesn’t backtrack on the train route since you’re going from the Milan area to Lake Garda.

At Bergamo I’ve stayed in two different hotels. The Gombit Hotel is a nicely remodeled modern boutique hotel adjacent to the Citta Alta Gombit Tower. Hotel Piazza Vecchia is more modest but still spacious rooms, and the breakfast was also very good.

Posted by
219 posts

Thanks, @Jean. There are so many great places, and it's hard to decide!

Posted by
1321 posts

Did you book your flights already? And is Milan a priority? I'm not sure I love your new itinerary, but it is all about your priorities.

Posted by
219 posts

Hi Donna,
Yes, we booked the flights in February. Milan is not a priority but I've heard from several (including our DIL) how much they enjoyed it. Leaning now toward keeping Lake Maggior for the 3 days after Milan, removing Lake Como, and using the 2 removed days either in Bergamo as Jean mentioned or ater in the trip.

Posted by
1321 posts

Hi melrowgo .... Have a great trip. We enjoy Stresa as much as Bellagio. All the lakes are beautiful.

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