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Itinerary suggestion and Driving advice

Hi,

We are travelling to Italy in March for 15 days and couldn't be more excited.

We are 5 adults( 3 healthy elderly) and a 2 year old.

The itinerary planned is

11 th March- Land in Rome and take a car to Sorrento for 5 nights. ( Day trips to Naples, amalfi)

16 th March- leave for Florence for 3 nights. ( Day trip to Bologna)

19 th March - leave to San Gimignano for 4 nights( farmhouse stay)

23rd March - leave to Rome till 26 th March and then leave for home.

Can you suggest if the above itinerary is feasible?We will be having a car till we reach Rome (23rd).
We wanted the car for the flexibility and so that the olders won't need to carry their luggage in the train. Do you also think the car will be economical as we are 5 adults. ( We are confused about renting a car after all the negative information we have read online)
My folks are not so much into museums but big foodies.

Any recommendations on agriturismos.

I'd be grateful for your suggestions
Regards,
Neha

Posted by
3812 posts

Did you check tolls and gas costs on viamichelin.com? Did you compare driving times and train schedules? For example, It takes 40 minutes by train from Florence to Bologna, but 1 hour and something driving through the Mountains. I'd Pack light and take the trains up to the 19th, You need a car only for the days in San Gimignano. Why risking ztl fines and break-inns when there is another option that's faster and that may be cheaper?

Incidentally, Nobody drives in Naples except Neapolitans.

Posted by
1059 posts

Cars tend to be on the small side. Public transportation in italy can be convenient, affordable and relaxing especially on your routes. Also, parking! Not going to be easy or convenient at any of your destinations. I use a car service between Naples and Sorrento every year and every year I'm reminded that I don't ever want to drive there (and I drive in New Jersey!).

The high speed (Freccia) train runs between Rome and Naples, and also to Florence. They are frequent and very comfortable. The Amalfi Coast is really best done by bus or boat. That way the driver gets to enjoy the view.

You do have a lot of packing and unpacking on your schedule. May I suggest you look at train schedules - that's a good way of guessing how much time it really takes to get from place to place (start with getting up and end with hitting the streets in the new location). It takes longer than we sometimes think it should. I think you are losing about 1/2 - 3/4 a day for each move. Maybe the daytrip to Bologna will also cut into your time. Florence could keep you busy for the full time by itself.

I love Sorrento and spend a week there every June. For me it's a place to relax and just "be my better self." I also love Rome but 2 full days, like you have scheduled, would drive me crazy! I can never get away with less than a full week there - and they still have to force me onto the plane kicking and screaming. Maybe a night less in Sorrento (don't believe I said that), and maybe reconsidering Gimignano (could be a day trip from Florence)? Give that reclaimed time split between Florence and Rome? Just a thought.

Whatever you decide, make the planning part of the fun! Have a wonderful trip!!!!

Posted by
11663 posts

I agree totally with Dario. Packing light is the key: 21" rolling suitcase for each person plus a day bag. We are 66 and 75 and travel this way -- no car -- for 6 or 8 weeks at a time in Italy and beyond. We have rented cars and usually regretted it.

Parking in Sorrento and Amalfi is a nightmare; Bologna and Florence not much better. The ZTLs are hard to avoid.

Use taxis when you think it is too much such as from the train station to the hotel. We gladly do that except in the smallest towns.

Posted by
27665 posts

I have not driven in Europe, but I suspect it's not going to be easy to find a vehicle that will accommodate five adults, a car seat for the toddler and all your luggage. It certainly would have to be a really large vehicle, and that will present extra issues related to parking and maneuverability in historic areas with narrow streets laid out in the Middle Ages.

It's important not to leave any belongings visible in the car when you stop for sightseeing or a meal. And you need to get everything into the trunk before you arrive at your parking place.

I'm 68 and I take trains all over Europe. Keeping the suitcases as small and light as possible is a big help.

Posted by
2182 posts

Congrats on your upcoming trip!

I can't speak of driving from Rome to Sorrento, since I haven't tried it. I hope those who have will respond. However, from everything I've read, driving in the area, especially Naples and the Amalfi Coast is not a good idea. We never drive in large cities, such as Rome, Florence, Paris, Edinburgh, etc. We always commute in from smaller nearby towns.

What time does your flight arrive? It looks like you are expecting to pick up the rental car and drive directly to Sorrento. You will be jet lagged on arrival and would not recommend driving the same day, especially if you've never driven in Europe in general and Italy in particular.

You have 3 nights or two days listed for Florence. You don't have time to day trip to Bologna, cut it out entirely.

I think the only time you need a car would be to pick one up in Florence, stay in San Gimignano, then return to Florence and train to Rome.

Personally, I think you are trying to do way too much, especially since you'll be hauling around a two year old. Everything will take much longer with a small child. I hold to the maxim of doing Rome and north or Rome and south but not traveling both directions. Doing Rome and the Sorrento area would make a nice trip. Doing Rome, Florence and San Gimignano (Tuscany) would also be a nice trip. Trying to do both in 15 days will be drive by tourism that will leave you exhausted.

Posted by
7820 posts

We rented a car in December 2012, coming from the south and turning in the car before we headed to Rome by train. It was convenient to have a car in the Sorrento/Amalfi area, although we used the train for a day trip to busy Naples.

We had a tiny car, with a trunk just big enough for our 2 suitcases. With 5 of you, you’ll want a vehicle big enough to hold all the passengers, plus luggage. Maybe a minivan?

Maybe their policy has changed, but at Pizzeria da Michele in Naples, even in somewhat off-season December, there was an over 1-hour wait to get in, and they handed out little numbered tickets to the crowd out front. As one group left the pizzeria, they’d call out the next number, and that group would get in. Lots of pizza available in Naples, but we were determined to eat in that one. We took a little stroll around the neighborhood, knowing it would be a while before our number got called.

Posted by
381 posts

We spent a month in Italy on our last trip there and used only trains. We have gotten to the point that renting a car is more trouble than it is worth. No way would I drive, or attempt to find a parking space, in Naples or on the Amalfi Coast. The size vehicle you would need for your group would be a van of some sort. If you feel like you absolutely need a car for San Gimignano try to pick it up and drop it off as close as possible to your destination. We hired a driver to pick us up in Naples and drive us to Positano for a week. It is the best money we have ever spent. The traffic in Naples leaving the train station was a nightmare with construction and an accident. Our driver said that is just normal but he even needed to back down a ramp into a round about to avoid a backup. Also, check carefully into the car seat requirements and availability if you end up renting a vehicle. Have fun!

Posted by
33535 posts

The highway after you get the car at the airport until just after Naples isn't too bad - multilane GRA followed by multilane A1. There are significant tolls.

And no way should you be driving another several hours after a longhaul flight - no matter if you are arriving from North America, India, Dubai or Singapore. Jet Lag can be a killer. And a family with 3 elderly people should be very careful about getting of a long haul aircraft and sitting immobile again for 3 or more hours. I have had a DVT and you don't want one, and elderly are more susceptible. I won't mention the idea of making a 2 year old sit in their mandatory car seat for that long after a flight. You're the parent so I'm sure you can imagine.

After you get off the A1 south of Naples and start going around the bottom of the Bay of Naples towards Sorrento the road changes and becomes a very busy narrow 2 lane road with lots of traffic and winding hilly driving. It is so that you get into mode of driving on the other side of the peninsula, the Amalfi coast. Having done it in the off-season with my own car, I promise that it is no easy thing. And I used to drive professionally. With a big van with family chatting away and at least one nervous passenger (I promise, especially if they look down) and a 2 year old, and with the Amalfi requiring frequent stopping and edging where your mirrors nearly touch the wall and the other vehicle, and even having to back up around corners to let buses and trucks through - no way you could pay me enough.

Please consider all implications of this car rental.

Are you aware that all drivers who will be driving in Italy if they don't have an EU driving licence require an IDP - International Driving Permit - which must be obtained in your home country? And that it is required in addition to your home drivers license?

Posted by
8084 posts

Case rental in Italy, not me. I have driven in Italy, when I lived in Germany years ago, but these days many get outrageous tickets. One person on these boards got a ticket for going 2 KM faster than the speed limit.

Also, many have already stated, with five persons you will need large vehicle, like a van with all your luggage. Expensive.

Trains are not as expensive in Italy as places like Germany or France.

As for itinerary, I have been to Bologna. It was OK, but there are far better places to see. I would go to Siena (closer to Florence) or Ravenna instead.

Parking is another problem having a car. Does your lodging in all these places have free parking, or parking at all?

Driving in the Almafi Coast is problematic. Heavy traffic and few places to park. Consider taking a tour on a small bus.

Posted by
3635 posts

I agree with most of what everyone else has said, but have a couple of additions. First of all, I don’t consider myself a “pack lighter.” I like to be clean and look nice. I get along just fine with a 20 - 22” rolling bag and a smaller tote size carryon. I plan on a week’s worth of clothing with doing laundry once/week.
I can’t emphasize enough that with 15 days you don’t have time for all your destinations. Each of your transit days will really be consumed by travel and check-out/check-in. Rome definitely needs at least another day, or even two. March can be quite chilly in Tuscany, so maybe an agriturismo stay isn’t the best plan. You don’t have enough time in Florence for the day trip to Bologna. If you really want to investigate great food, how about scrapping Florence for Emilia Romagna? Agriturismi can be found there, too.

Posted by
1015 posts

You have received some good advice on the places you are traveling and the options for transport, including some of the challenges with driving. I will focus my response on the car rental itself. Last year I traveled to Italy with 6 adults and we rented a mini-van (automatic transmission from Auto Europe). We drove from Florence to Chianti and stayed in Chianti-region 20km north of Siena for a couple of days and made day trips. The rest of our trips (Venice to CT to Florence, Siena to Rome) was by train.

Pros and Cons of Driving

Pros:

  • Freedom to visit the out of the way places more easily than public transport
  • Renting a car and driving was much easier than I expected. I have driven in France, Germany and the UK and I thought that other than the ZTL zones, Italy was pretty straight forward. Note: didn't drive in weather and no mountain driving, but did drive in small towns. Note we used Waze which does a great job of mapping out ZTL and camera zones.
  • Easier on some of the members of my group who had mobility issues

Cons:

  • For a group that size you will need to rent a mini-van. I was able to get an automatic, but with luggage, it was tight. In fact my niece had to share the back seat with suitcases.
  • We had to leave our luggage in the vehicle when we changed locations and did stops along the way. The car wasn't broken into, but with a mini-van it is harder to hide luggage, especially when it occupies a seat.
  • Parking is miserable with a minivan. It took us over 40 minutes to find a space big enough in Siena during the market day.

Hope this helps.
Sandy

Posted by
15771 posts

I'll pile on as well, with apologies. I do mean well and want you to have the best time possible.

Have you been to Europe before? I don't know where you live so I will assume the U.S. Roads in Europe are much different. So are trains. Trains are very fast, very comfortable and generally take you from city center to city center. Highways are generally narrower, many are 2-lanes, with limited passing opportunities or shoulders. Those historic centers you want to visit were built centuries before cars were thought of, they are often narrow with blind corners on hills. Parking is hard to find and often costly. Cars are smaller than in the U.S. Even a car that will seat 5 adults and a car seat comfortably will have very limited luggage space. Most rental companies have a description of each class of car, showing the number of passengers and luggage capacity by number of large suitcases and small ones. Depending on where you are staying, you may not even be able to drive to drop off your luggage and passengers. I would worry more about comfort than price when considering transportation options.

I have driven in Italy, including on the Amalfi Coast. Here's what I wrote about that. I'm an intrepid driver and after spending a few days in Naples, I assure you that is the worst place in Europe to try to drive a car. Traffic is awful, drivers are aggressive and heedless of traffic laws, there are unwritten rules between pedestrians and drivers, so locals know how to share the streets - but strangers don't and you are in peril of hitting a pedestrian who assumes you know those rules. I stayed in Sorrento too, it's a difficult place to drive a car because, in addition to the hills and narrow streets, there's a one-way system and some parts that are off-limits to non-residents' cars.

Posted by
11735 posts

We wanted the car for the flexibility and so that the olders won't need to carry their luggage in the train.

Why not use wheeled luggage? Pack light. How old are the 'olders'?

Can you suggest if the above itinerary is feasible?

It is, but for the most part you do not want a 7 passenger van, which is what you would need for 6 people and luggage. For most of your trip a car the size you need will be a liability, not an asset.

Posted by
16400 posts

Hi Neha and welcome to the forum!
You've gotten plenty of input about the car (I'd opt for public transit as well) but just noodling on some other points?

You may already know this but other than between Capri and Naples from Sorrento, the ferries won't be operating in the Amalfi Coast in March. You'll be doing your sightseeing to Positano and Amalfi via bus.

Exactly what are your "elderly" travelers' ages? There can be some disagreement about that term, as you could probably tell from some of the intrepid responders above! Let's just say that my husband and I are in our mid 60's and do not consider ourselves "elderly" in any way so your concern about bags and trains may be a little misguided. Unless very carefully planning for avoiding having to heft those bags at all, everyone is likely going to have to do it at some point: many hotels do not have elevators so you could be muscling them up and down stairs....and you'll generally be dealing with a LOT of stairs in Italy! As counseled above, pack accordingly. :O)

Weather in March could be a crapshoot. You will probably have some balmy, sunny days but could also experience periods of heavy rain, wind and chill. There is little 'inside' to do in the Amalfi Coast area in foul weather so, well, be prepared should that occur? The same could be true for a Tuscan agriturismo stay.

My folks are not so much into museums but big foodies

Gotcha, except that one can only spend so many hours of the day at table. I guess I'm curious what you plan to do with the bulk of your days, especially if the weather begs for 'inside' activities? For example, Florence is terrific but museums, in the form of historic civic buildings, residences, churches and art collections, is pretty much what that city is all about. Some attractions there and in Rome either require advance tickets or it's strongly advised that you get them to avoid standing in very long queues so you do need at least a rough sightseeing plan. There are also attractions that may not be great choices for a toddler. In short, I'm seeing a list of places you intend to go but not much about what you'll do when you get there?

I don't think 2.5 days is enough for Rome but that sort of links back to my concern above? There is a great deal of ground that can be covered there but how much time you'll need depends on how much of that ground you're interested in and how quickly or not you'll be moving with a toddler and senior travelers?

Posted by
3812 posts

My folks are not so much into museums

If you could Be in Rome during the week-end You could book a visit of the Domus Aurea, Nero's underground royal palace. It's still an active archaeological site and tours are led by volunteering archaeologists.

PS Nobody has ever been fined in Italy for going 2 Kph over the limit. There is a 5% leeway with a minimum of 5 kph. Do not let a random know-it-all talk you into not driving around rural Tuscan . It's easy and it's a wonderful thing to do as a family. Just be careful with your luggage because car break-Inns are rare but do happen close to tourist attractions.

Posted by
2 posts

Thank you so much everyone for your replies. We are reconsidering the car option. We will rent a car only for the tuscan towns.
Just one thing should we drop the car back in Florence and train it to Rome or can we go till Rome and leave the car there.
My parents are between the age group of 68-72. Also we have driven in multiple european countries comfortably but i now understand Italy is whole different ball game. We are also thinking of letting go of one day in Sorrento and adding it to Rome.
Any recommendations for the agriturismos in San Gimignano, any economical wine tours.
Thank you everyone again.

Posted by
185 posts

For your Sorrento/Amalfi coast part of your trip consider hiring a private driver for your transfers. With 5 people the price would not be so bad split between you. With a toddler and older parents it would be well worthwhile. Yes, it's a splurge, but your on vacation so enjoy it. The scenery is so beautiful.
I agree with others---Rome needs more time.

Posted by
1536 posts

By my count, your group will be getting either on or off a train 12 times to go from the airport in Rome to Sorrento and then back north to Florence. It will take about 4 hours each way, not counting the time it takes to buy train tickets and find your way in the train stations and stop for food and bathroom breaks. For two luggage-carrying adults (or teenagers), not a big deal.

However, adding in jet-lag, a toddler, and the extra suitcases belonging to the three older adults, would make me re-think your itinerary. I see the temptation to rent a car and drive, but driving a minivan on that route immediately after your plane flight is even less of a good idea, for all the reasons mentioned already.

With only two weeks, and the group that you are dealing with, do consider visiting either Rome and Sorrento, or Rome and Tuscany. Not both. Yes, it is painful to cut out half of what you want to do, but I think you'll be happier overall.

I've never added it up, but I've probably spent a total of 30 weeks in Italy (much less than many people on this forum!) traveling independently all around the country by plane, train, bus, car, minivan, 9-passenger van, both with and without babies and kids, with and without being able to carry my own small suitcase, and in all kinds of weather and health. Just think through exactly what each small part of your proposed trip will be like and make sure you really, really want to take on so much. Just for two examples, will your toddler have a stroller that will also need to be packed onto the train and into a car? Will he or she have his or her own carseat or do you plan to rent one with the car?

Now, here's one practical tip that may or may not be obvious --- I can never tell. One way to handle the luggage on and off the trains (in addition to packing light and renting apartments with washing machines) is to make sure two of the suitcases are backpacks and that two of the others can fit securely onto two wheeled suitcases. That's how two people can handle six bags. This is how, these days, my husband manages to carry his own carry-on bag, my wheeled carry-on bag, his large messenger bag, my in-flight bag (my "purse"), and a bag with his medical device. The grandparents can be in charge of the toddler and watching the pile of everybody's bags as you get them on and off the trains.

Posted by
3812 posts

Sorry Dario, but a poster on these boards received a ticket for going 2 KPH over the limit.

A poster on this forum S-A-I-D he received a ticket for going 2 kph over the limit, unfortunately what people write on the Internet isn't necessarily true. In this case, being fined for going 2 kph over the limit is impossible because:

  1. by law cameras are set to take pics only when cars are going 5 or 5% kph over the posted limit
  2. no city would ever install a camera whose fines do not comply with the above law; all local offenders would get those fines automatically cancelled by simply forwarding the fine to the Prefect by registered letter.
  3. The cop co-signing the maintenance report of that irregular camera would be making a false statement.

The poster couldn't understand that Italian fines mean "the offender was driving above the legal limit" and not "above the posted limit"; a difference that may be easily lost in translation, but that's been explained again and again.

Posted by
2182 posts

A poster on this forum S-A-I-D he received a ticket for going 2 kph over the limit, unfortunately what people write on the Internet isn't necessarily true.

I'm with Dario on this. This is an unsubstantiated claim. I have read horror stories in the past about how the driver was unfairly treated. When pressed, many provide more information that clarifies the situation. My favorite one was from the guy who got multiple speeding citations. It turned out his buddies were griping about him driving too slow, so he let them drive.

We spent 10 days driving in Italy with no incidents. I did my homework, reading up on the automated systems used on the Autostrada and on rural roads and in villages. I just assumed that just because I couldn't see a police car, that didn't mean my speed wasn't being observed and recorded.

Anyway, who wants to speed through the gorgeous Tuscan countryside? I often found myself driving under the speed limit. If you are a defensive, law abiding driver driving in Italy outside major cities can be enjoyable and trouble free.