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I drove the Amalfi Coast and survived

I'm not quite as intrepid as that sounds - after all it's February and there aren't many tourists so there aren't many cars and barely a handful of tour buses. I started in Salerno (where I rented the car) and drove along the coast to Positano. I thought to return the same way, but storm clouds were looming so I continued through the hills to Sorrento and then on the highway (tunnel road to Pompeii and A3 tollway) back to Salerno.

Italian drivers are crazy. At one point, I had 3-4 cars behind me and nowhere to pull over to let them pass on a very twisty, narrow stretch. One of them started honking and not 2 minutes later, a bright red car came barreling toward me around a blind curve in the middle of the road. If I'd been going any faster, I wouldn't have had time to brake. As it was, he missed me by only a couple feet. A bit later, I was able to get behind a SITA bus, and made pretty good time following in his wake, until he met one of his brethen on a narrow curve. You know the joke, how do two porcupines make love? Well, that's how two buses pass each other . . . very carefully. "My" bus started to back up, so I went into reverse and eventually the 5-6 cars behind me all backed up. Lucky for me, the road was level. If I'd had to back up on a hill, I'm not sure I'd have managed. So I'm not going to follow any more buses. But I did learn quickly to listen for their horns - which they blow as they approach every blind curve.

What a gorgeous rugged coastline, even on a cloudy day. Tomorrow's plan is to go in the opposite direction to Paestum, but Monday promises to be sunny and I'm going to spend the entire day driving slowly and enjoying every moment.

Posted by
11613 posts

Congrats!

Go to the museum in Paestum on Sunday, I think it's closed on Monday (although the archeological zone is open both days). Have a cocktail on the patio of Hotel dei Templi. Look for rose bushes at Paestum, planted in memory of the famous Paestum roses of antiquity.

Posted by
6516 posts

Good for you! We've been on a couple of those SITA buses on that road, and were horror-stricken the whole way. It was July, the height of tourist season. I think that was when DH said he would never, ever, drive in Italy.

Have a great trip to Paestum; it's amazing.

Posted by
4093 posts

Sounds dreadful and exciting at the same time! Not for me yet but go for it Chani!

Posted by
677 posts

Goodness me that sounds a little hair-raising!!! Glad to hear you survived and having a great time!

Posted by
1793 posts

You've reached level 1. For level 2 certification, drive it while talking continuously on a cell phone.

Posted by
5293 posts

My oh my! You're one brave soul, Chani!

Enjoy the rest of your amazing trip! ;-)

Posted by
15777 posts

LOL Mike. Thanks, but I'm happy with level 1.

I think riding the bus must be scarier - you are sitting up higher and can see over the edge but you can't see ahead of you. I was driving on the "inside" lane and trying to keep as close to the mountainside as possible on the theory that drivers coming toward me would avoid me. And I did try to pull over whenever I could to let all the impatient Italians pass me. Tomorrow I plan to drive again as far as Positano and then back on the seaside of the road. If more than 48 hours goes by without a post from me . . .

Today the skies were completely clear except for a few cloud banks low on the horizon and the sea was shades of deep, deep blue with a smudgy pink to deep red glow after sunset. Tomorrow promises to be more of the same, so I am really looking forward to spectacular scenic views.

Posted by
32 posts

I had to laugh at your experience.......That's why my husband (who is Italian) won't drive again in Italy he found it very stressful on the Auto Strade....the Italians are very impatience!! Our relatives warned us but we didn't listen.
also its because we drive on the opposite side of the road and car so that is an added stress. So this year we are hiring a driver for a day for the Amalfi Coast. Enjoy your trip

Posted by
11613 posts

Stop in Minori at Sal de Riso pasticceria. Gelaterie is in the back.

Posted by
1018 posts

Congrats on your accomplishment! I've driven the Amalfi Coast from top to bottom and bottom to top three times and during the summer months. The first time was a "white knuckle death grip on the steering wheel" event. My would say, " this is beautiful-look at this" and my eyes were glued to the roadway in front of me, to the sides of me, and behind me. The following two times were stressful, but nothing like the first time.

The area is breath taking and beautiful and worth the time spent there. One other unique we experienced was lunch in Positano. Fter parking the car we walked down toward the beach area. We were hungry and stopped at a restaurant for lunch. We dined al fresco at a table opposite the restaurant. The tables were set up on the road with buses and cars going by only a foot or two from our table. Something different and it made a "dolce ricordi."

Buon viaggio,

Posted by
16895 posts

I'm glad that you didn't miss the Ceremony of the Buses. On a sunny day, you'll probably want to finish that west-bound road to Sorrento before the sun gets too low in the sky.

Posted by
2456 posts

Chani, are sure that "deep red glow" was not remnants of those visiting drivers who had been traveling along in the "outside lane"?

Posted by
32 posts

Absolutely worthwhile! My husband drove on a beautiful, sunny, April afternoon a couple of years ago. Not much traffic, have to admit, and we were able to stop and take photos all the way to Positano. Our hosts at the B&B in Sorrento thought we were heroes, AND they are Italian!!! Maybe it was just a fluke; the highway gods were with us, it was the best day ever!

Posted by
1637 posts

I drove the Amalfi Coast in mid May two years ago and did not find it challenging at all. Actually, after driving a motor home over some of the Rocky Mountain and Sierra Nevada Mountain passes driving the Amalfi Coast in a small car was pleasurable. I told my wife I wanted to try driving a bus on it.

Posted by
1829 posts

Well done Chani and nice story!

Was it too cold for the scooters to be out in mass? I can envision dozens of them passing you on that road.

Posted by
15777 posts

Bob - I've driven in the Rockies (and similar roads in the West) and take my hat off to anyone who'd do it in a camper.

Motorbikes zipped past me often. There were also a goodly number of cyclists, some in groups of 3-6, and occasional lone riders.

Yes, Laura, my drive from Positano to Sorrento was early enough in the day to avoid the sun, but it was a bit of a problem even driving from Minori to Salerno, where I had it mainly in my rear view mirror, which was a little blinding, and a few times for a few seconds around bends. What was really scary is that drivers with the sun directly in their eyes were still barreling toward me at speed.

On a tangent, I've also learned how to cross the street in Italy - just walk purposefully and the cars stop. It's better to cross in the middle of a block than at a corner, where turning cars, and especially scooters, may not have time to see you.

Posted by
11613 posts

Chani, the best way to cross a busy street in Italy is with a group of nuns.

Posted by
5293 posts

That's funny Zoe!

What if there aren't any nuns around when you need to cross a busy street?

Posted by
11613 posts

Priscilla, you wait. There will be a group along shortly.

Posted by
15777 posts

The next best thing to nuns is a small child in a stroller or baby buggy.