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Italy with young kids - itinerary help!

2 weeks with a 4 yo and 6 month old !?

Hi everyone !

We’re doing 2 weeks in Italy in late March - early April 2026 with our young family and would love to get your thoughts on our plan.

We are seasoned travellers and big foodies - BUT - this will be our first big trip since having kids so we are ready to be humbled ! If you have any advice re how we can balance making the most of the dining experiences with young kids that would be fab!

We have a fixed date of needing to get to Florence on the 12th/13th April, but otherwise we’re flexy. The biggest part we’re going back and forth on is what happens after Florence and before heading to Lyon. We’re wide open really! My partner has been to CT, Amalfi , Rome and Florence on her own trips a while back as a younger person, but it’s my first time in Italy. Hence us trying to figure out the right mix of letting me check out the classics while doing a bit more exploration too.

Look forward to your thoughts !

Here’s our plan:

March 24-28
- Arrive in Rome (after 36hrs of flying fml!)
- considering getting an apartment near Ponte

March 29-April 3
- Train to Bari, then a few days with old friends around Puglia. Will most likely pick one spot to stay and then do day trips.

Apr 4-6
- Train to Florence
-??

April 7-8
- Bologna?

April 9-12
- Lake Garda? (I have read some influencer stuff saying it’s a great place to go w kids, but also maybe seems a bit …boring dare I say? Happy to proven wrong ! We are from NZ and so well used to mountains and lakes !)

April 13
Train from Milan to Lyon and continue into France (fixed)

Posted by
1966 posts

OK! Many things to say! We went to Puglia and Rome at exactly that time of year and with our grandchildren when they were exactly those ages. Had a great time! But right now I’m on a mountain road in Abruzzo. So, later!

Posted by
9417 posts

One thing that I learned traveling with young kids in Europe was forget museums.
I remember my young son asking me after 15 minutes in the Lourve when we were leaving.

Posted by
6273 posts

I think the recipe for success is to stick to your home schedule. If the four-year-old naps, then you are in luck. If not, I suggest planning walks with the baby sleeping in a stroller if that work, or even splitting up.
I would not do any two-night stays, and shoot for lunch to be your big meal, with dinner more street-food type options one might normally do for lunch. (You won't be doing the typical Italian 9 o'clock meal this time.)
Good luck!

Posted by
57 posts

Hi Chetty.kavi!

That sounds like quite an adventure.

We first took our daughter to Europe at 2 1/2 and she was in a stroller (and still napping). That was pretty simple. The next time she was four: no stroller and very definite ideas about what she'd eat (and not). I have a very distinct memory of her in Rome asking when we could go back to the hotel. It was 10am.

Some of our food strategies: We stayed in hotels that had breakfast included. Breakfast buffets had plenty of choice so always something she'd eat. I bought an inexpensive tablecloth from a Dollar Store-type place and made a point of plotting out the parks so could have picnic lunches everywhere. We bought a lot of fruit, meat cheese, bread and fancy -- but inexpensive -- cookies on that trip. We kept fruit and yogurt in the hotel mini fridge. When we went to restaurants, we'd generally get a margherita pizza (Italian pizzas are huge) and a pasta dish and a salad. Plenty of food for the three of us.

Non-food strategies: the piazza is your friend. Lots of people to watch, room to run around and probably pigeons to chase. We bought small spiral notebooks and carried crayons with us for drawing and coloring. You can buy gelato or even ice cream bars everywhere. I am not above bribery. There was a lot of ice cream on that trip.
We did not go into a single museum.
But we did spent a lot of time in Piazza della Repubblica in Florence. There's a carousel there.

If I were doing it now, I'd check out Explora: the Children's Museum of Rome (near Piazza del Popolo)
Finally, I'd consider staying in Florence or Bologna or Verona rather than two nights at one and then moving again. The moving from hotel to hotel is no fun with kids and luggage, especially if you can't check in before 2pm. All three of those cities are walkable and charming and put you in easy reach of MIlan.
Enjoy!

Posted by
1966 posts

Great advice above!

March 24-28 Rome

Will the baby have his or her own carseat on the plane? Our baby granddaughter did and in addition to its being safer and then later essential in the car (actually a van), it meant that she and her parents could get some sleep. And it snapped into her stroller. I felt iffy about the stroller and our sons never had one, but I had to admit it was really useful for walking around and she napped during restaurant lunches. Our grandson, like me, could not sleep sitting up on the plane, so our son stood up for hours and let him sleep stretched out on two seats. He had a carseat, too, but it was checked as baggage.

It is not, not, not fun to lug around a 2nd carseat in train stations, etc., even with four adults to carry stuff, so you might be able to rent one along with the rented car instead. We also had a travel bed for our granddaughter, but if you rent the right apartments, with a baby bed, it shouldn’t be needed.

As you know, you will all be jet-lagged. Adults can cope with this, but if your kids are like our grandchildren, they will be awake at night and, uh, not coping. Make a plan for this, perhaps a 2-bedroom apartment and each parent sleeps in the same room with one child. I could tell you about a perfect such apartment, but it’s near Termini, not in Ponte.

March 29-April 3 - Train to Bari

There are fast and slow trains from Rome to Bari. I like to look up trains on Google Maps to see all the times, then use the train app to check Google and buy your tickets. Since you are staying in Rome after your flight, and can be pretty sure to catch a particular train, you could buy the tickets ahead of time.

One alternative to the Rome–Bari train is the Rome–Foggia train, and then rent a car in Foggia. We did this once. Shorter train trip and easy to get to the rental car office. I don’t know where the rental agency is arriving in Bari by train — we’ve only flown into Bari and rented at the airport. We’ve also rented cars in Lecce and in Brindisi. We like Europcar, but on our latest trip to Puglia, we rented from Hertz at Termini (train was sold out so we drove from Rome to Lecce).

On the trip with our grandchildren, we stayed in Ostuni (in the oldest part) for a week and in a trullo near Cisternino for a week. On another trip we stayed at Masseria Aprile outside of Locorotondo, also in a trullo. All good. The 4-year-old loved Ostuni, Lecce, throwing rocks into the water on the beach at Polignano a Mare, the train museum in Lecce, and running around in various piazze in various towns. He really loved Alberobello. He loved all sorts of things about just being in Italy, like how toilets flushed and how some sinks had foot pedals. He was great in restaurants as long as one of us took him outside to explore and run around until the food came and he had things to do at the table when he was done eating. His sister ate her very first solid food on this trip — a ripe peach which she gobbled with extreme delight.

It was fun to take a baby to Italy. She was greatly admired wherever we went. I don’t know about New Zealand, but in America you don’t get old men and school-age boys coming over to admire a baby, usually just women and girls. All the restaurants were so welcoming and accommodating, too.

Posted by
1966 posts

Florence, Bologna, Lake Garda?

I probably wouldn’t take a 4-year-old to any of these places, nor change locations so many times. I thoroughly understand the temptation to see as much as possible! Train from Puglia to Florence sounds like an awfully long train ride to me, even without kids. You don’t say what your interests are except to check out the classics and explore and eat great food, so I think you want to really focus on the specific VERY most important things you yourselves want to do. For example, if a morning at the Uffizi is at the top of your list, go to Florence, take turns taking care of both kids, and go to the Uffizi. I can recommend a 2-bedroom apartment in San Frediano in the Oltrarno — wonderful, untouristed neighborhood and excellent access to the small electric buses into the middle of Florence.

We went to Italy again with our grandchildren when they were 6 and 9 — you can see my trip report on Venice, Bologna, and Rome with them: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/bologna-ferrara-venice-rome-in-december-with-kids

If I had to name two places in Italy I would take a 4-year-old, I would say Venice and Siena, but neither is a very convenient fit with Rome/Puglia and ending up in Milan. Well, now, I just looked up flying from Bari to Venice nonstop — it takes an hour and a half. Fast train from Venice to Milan is 2.5 hours. Hmmmmmm, very doable.

A lot depends on what your 4-year-old is like. Our sons would have been fine with all aspects of travel at age four, including going into museums as long as they had something to do. Our grandson at four and our granddaughter at 6, while fine in restaurants and going places outdoors and up in belltowers, were far too active and impatient for churches, museums, etc. Even children’s museums.

Maybe stay a couple more days in Rome when you arrive, train or fly to Puglia, train or fly to just one location (Bologna, Venice, or Florence?), train to Milan. Find the playgrounds, take an iPad and other things for a kid to do while waiting or in transit, eat gelato, eat lunch out rather than dinner, don’t rush, come back to Italy with the kids in a few years!

Posted by
1966 posts

The weather was great late March to early April --- cool at times but very little rain. There will be wildflowers, and also some interesting spring foods to eat in restaurants like roasted wild hyacinth bulbs and young poppy leaves.

If a spring trip includes Easter Sunday, note that Easter Monday (La Pasquetta) is a national holiday in Italy so schools, banks, government offices, etc. will be closed. It’s a long weekend in which Italians will visit the countryside and other towns. For instance, we were staying in the historic center of Ostuni for a week ending in Easter weekend — the town’s wonderful restaurants were all open all week but the old town was little visited until lots of people arrived on Saturday.

We've become big believers in making reservations for lunch, even in the off season --- can't hurt, might help. Since the pandemic, especially, we've found our carefully selected restaurants completely full at lunch and we watch other people being turned away. We do eat at very small, very casual restaurants --- maybe the bigger, fancier ones have more tables available for people without reservations? Also, calling a restaurant or dropping by the day before enables you to find out for sure if it is really open. Yesterday, here in Abruzzo, two out of the three restaurants we chose that Google said were open were not open when we arrived without having called first. With kids along, you won't want to spend extra time finding an open restaurant.

Posted by
1747 posts

Don't miss that April 5th is Easter next year. Easter is a huge holiday as is the Monday after so expect closures and celebrations. As I understand it Monday is just a quiet holiday where picnicking and relaxation are common but expect much to be closed.

You might want to pad out the time in Florence and count those days out if you want to attempt the usual Florence sights during that time.

Have a great trip,
=Tod