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Getting around in the Amalfi Coast (in Sept.)?

As an anniversary gift, I'm planning a trip for my parents (early-mid 60's) to go to the Amalfi Coast, Naples, and Tuscany in September, and we have them flying into Rome, then: staying three nights in an Airbnb in Ravello, continuing onto Naples for two nights, and then to an agriturismo in Tuscany. I am definitely having them rent a car to get around Tuscany, but we're still unsettled on whether they should rent a car for their time in the Amalfi Coast.

I think that they'll plan to spend their days in the AC following an itinerary something like this one, some town exploration and some outdoor adventures (on water and on land). They aren't big tour guide people -- they'll be happiest with their RS book, maybe the audio tours, and just exploring sites and towns on their own. This means that they won't be spending days with a guide who'll serve as a driver.

I've read posts here expressing that driving in the Amalfi Coast isn't great fun and that public transportation is the way to go. Renting a car would seem to give them more flexibility, though, and might allow for them to, say, stop in Pompeii on the drive from Ravello back to Naples. Based on the loose plan for their time and a bit of context on them as travelers, what would you recommend?

Posted by
906 posts

I would not rent a car on the Amalfi Coast. I have done that, parked it for one day, and then returned it to Naples and took the boat back to Positano. I used boats and buses from then on for a full week. Driving isn't easy and parking is much, much worse. If you can't hire a driver and car then just use public transport. Ravello is a nice town but I am sure they will want to go down to Amalfi, and Positano, and maybe to Salerno, Priano, and other places.

Again, no car.

Posted by
11294 posts

I'm most concerned about the first day of the trip. Getting from Rome's airport to Ravello is either a pain, with multiple conveyances (train from airport to Roma Termini station, another train from Termini to Salerno, a bus from Salerno to Amalfi, and another bus from Amalfi to Ravello) or a fortune (a hired car right from the airport to Ravello). Either way it takes several hours. Even if they do have a rental car (and I'm not qualified to comment on whether or not to get one for the Amalfi Coast), there's NO WAY they should be driving several hours from the Rome airport to Ravello, on those infamous winding roads, on the same day they arrive!

Maybe a night in Rome on arrival prior to going to Ravello? Or a flight into Naples instead of Rome? With the latter, they'd still want a prebooked car from the airport, but this will be about €100 instead of about €300-400.

Posted by
4105 posts

Totally agree with the others, fly into Naples Capodicino (NAP) take this shuttle to Amalfi, then a short 30 min bus ride to Ravello.

http://www.amalfishuttle.com/amalfishuttle-timetable/

Driving will only be time consuming and frustrating. The coast road is packed until mid October.

Have them use the ferries to transit between towns, much faster than the bus.

Ferry and bus schedules.

http://www.positano.com

Your parents should be able to see a lot in the three days and adding Naples will enhance their understanding of the area.

It might make more sense for them to visit Pompeii from Naples.

Posted by
15398 posts

Ravello is a pain to get to with public transport from Rome, because you have to switch multiple modes of transport.
A private driver from Rome to Ravello will cost 400€ to 500€ (probably closer to the latter). If they manage to fly to Naples it would be easier. A private driver might be only 120€. Or one could take the Curreri Viaggi shuttle bus from the NAP airport to Sorrento, then the bus to Amalfi and another bus to Ravello.
Either way is that Ravello has no public transport at night, therefore they'd be stuck there for dinner, because if they venture out for dinner, then finding the way back to Ravello would be an issue every night.
I'm telling you the truth. I like to have my own car if I stay based on the Amalfi Coast. In Sorrento I could do without, but I wouldn't be a happy camper in Ravello without one.
The first issue with the rental car is that if they intend to go there immediately after they land, it is over 4 hours drive from Rome. Would they want to do that while jet lagged after a long flight?
The other issue is parking availability in that Airbnb. Do they have parking? Or can they make parking arrangements at some local lot? Street parking is very limited.
Parking may be an issue all over the Amalfi Coast, but if you don't mind paying 3€ per hour or 25€ all day, there are parking lots you can use.
WHAT I WOULD DO:
I Would look for accommodations with parking arrangements and would drive.
If landing in Rome, maybe I may want to undertake the 4+ hr trip the next day. If landing in NAP, I'd go the same day. It's only 90 min.
Then when I'm done, I'd drive straight to Tuscany (6+ hours drive)

If they are not willing to drive then I'd find a flight to Naples, probably hire a private car transfer, but I wouldn't stay in Ravello. I'd stay in Positano or Amalfi. At least I would be totally stuck in the evenings. There is life in those two towns after dark.

Posted by
15643 posts

I drove the Amalfi coast this past February while I was based in Salerno and I wrote a little about my experiences. As you'll see, I've had a lot of experience driving coastal and mountain roads. The AC road is the most difficult I can remember - and in fact, I found driving up to Ravello from Amalfi so daunting that at some point (maybe half-way) I managed to find a spot wide enough to allow me to make what I shall euphemistically call a 3-point turn (it was a few more than that) to reverse direction and return to Amalfi. I would just add that I'd driven previously in Italy, Spain and France, am familiar with the signage, and had no trouble with a manual transmission. Much better to use the ferries and buses to get around. And, as someone else has said, Ravello is not the best place if you want to explore the other towns. You have to hike down or bus down to get a bus or ferry to go anywhere else.

Another consideration is that if they are arriving from the US, they are going to be jetlagged and sleep-deprived. Driving in that condition is the same as DUI. Add to that, the confusion of unfamiliar car, unfamiliar roads, and the like, it's a recipe for misery, if not disaster.

The best way to get to Naples, other than private transfer, is bus or ferry to Salerno and then the train, or bus to Sorrento and Circumvesuviana train. In Sorrento the bus stops at the train station, way above the seashore. In Salerno, the ferry is a short (5-10 min) level walk to the train. The bus probably stops at the train station there.

Generally the best way from Naples to Tuscany would be by fast train to Florence, then rent a car, though it does depend on where exactly they are staying.

Time allocations - remember that 3 nights = 2 days of sightseeing. They'll use a lot of their first day just getting through the airport and to the Amalfi coast. Then figure close to 1/2 day to Naples, giving them about 1.5 days in Naples itself. Then another 1/2 day to wherever in Tuscany for however many nights. Unless the flight home is afternoon or evening, I'd want to spend the last night in Rome, close to the airport. If their flight is fairly late in the day, they could drop the car in Florence and take the fast train to Rome, then the Leonardo to Fiumicino - allow 3 hours after dropping the car and getting to the train station.

Tootling around Tuscany sounds good, but they should know about the dangers of the ZTLs in many of the charming, ancient towns.

Lastly, GPS is essential for driving in Italy if you don't know the area well.

Posted by
209 posts

A wonderful car service is Sorrento silver star. sorrentosilverstar.com
We used them in 2012 on our trip to Amalfi coast and they were great. Hired them from Naples train station to small village Minori on Amalfi coast. Then another day had trip to various towns along coast including Positano and Amalfi. A couple years later, a friend hired them for Pompeii excursion.

Posted by
15976 posts

we have them flying into Rome, then: staying three nights in an Airbnb

Question? It's not clear if their 3 nights includes arrival day in Rome? If so, this only gives them 2 full days in the AC and a little piece of another: not even close to being able to manage the sample itinerary. If their time is going to be that limited, I would choose another location on the Sorrentine/Amalfi Coast with multiple types of transport options - especially ferries/jetboats - for getting around.

Good advice not to have them drive (if they should drive at all) from Rome to Ravello on a jet-lagged arrival day.

continuing onto Naples for two nights,

IMHO, they do NOT want to drive in Napoli. 😱. Others, weigh in on this?

Posted by
4 posts

Really appreciate all of the input from the community here.

For better or for worse, flying into Rome and staying in Ravello are both fixed pieces of the itinerary -- the former for cost purposes, the latter on a strong recommendation from a family member (and due to the pull of a really beautiful Airbnb).

Based on this, I'm thinking that:

  • They definitely shouldn't rent a car
  • To get from Rome Fiumicino to Ravello, they should take the train to Naples and then fork over the €100-120 for a car service to the Airbnb
  • They should plan to make use of car services/taxis during their days in AC, at least for trips from Ravello to ferries (if not door-to-door service)
  • They should visit Pompeii from Naples rather than traversing AC roads to get there during part of their stay in Ravello
  • Their timing calls for a more modest itinerary than the one I linked to, so they will have to be choosy about which towns they visit, sites they see (This leads to a question of what you'd prioritize for 2+ days in the AC based in Ravello)

Feel free to correct any of the above summary of the wisdom coming from your comments. Thanks for the help so far!