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Dolomites

We love the mountains, specifically, the Alps. We chose Switzerland and the Lauterbrunnen area the last 2 summers, so thought we would head to the Italian Alps, the Dolomites this coming September, following RS' Best of Europe tour which ends in Bled.
We were introduced to the Dolomites in 2017 on the Best of Italy Tour, staying in Castelrotto. From Caslelrotto, the tour bus took us early in the morning to Compatsch where we spent the day walking the Alpi di Suisi and the Witches Trail.
However, I'm having a hard time figuring out the trip using public transportation. I've read Rick's guidebook on The Dolomites, and have The Barton's book, Walking in Italy's Val Gardena, but I don't have a good physical map and am having a difficult time visualizing locations convenient to public transportation and the chairlifts/gondolas.
We would be arriving via Padua (I think) and hopefully head to Hall in Tirol (wishful thinking) after the Dolomites and then on to Munich, from where we hope to fly home. Our travels would be via public transportation. We haven't booked anything; not even RS" tour.
As I mentioned, we love the mountains. Ideally, we would like to find a hotel/B & B in a town with mountain views. I'm guessing that staying in Castelrotto might be the most convenient for transportation to mountain lifts. We are in our late 70s, so we would not be doing hikes longer than several miles.
but we are physically fit; just slow hikers.

Also, if we head to Tirol in Austria, specifically Hall, we would want to be in a location convenient via train or bus. Looking for "town" suggestions, as well as hotel recommendations. Not sure what our budget is but I'm guessing that hotels are less than hotels in Wengen, Switzerland where we paid close to $300 per night for mountain views!
Also, has anyone headed to Austria (Tirol) from the Dolomites?

Posted by
2633 posts

Hi Carol, are you sure you wouldn’t rather go back to Switzerland? 😊 I’ll be curious to hear you comparisons between the dolomites and the lauterbrunnen area. Every time I start researching the dolomites I think, “Switzerland seems so much easier.”

Posted by
7129 posts

Hi Carol, we also did the Best of Italy tour several years ago and loved the time in the Dolomites. Going back, Ortesei is a popular spot to stay and hike from there. We took a train from Bologna to Trento and then a bus to stay a few days at Moena (at Monza Hotel w/ half-board meals). It was charming, and we could catch the local bus to go hiking.

Posted by
2700 posts

We were in the Dolomites for five nights in 2017. We took a train from Venice to Verona (I think) and then a train to Bolzano. From Bolzano we caught a bus to Ortisei. We stayed at Hotel Grones, which we loved, and got the half board package. The food was superb. We had a mountain view, but you couldn't see that much of the mountains from our room. I don't think I would bother paying for a view again, because we were hardly in the room except for at night.

From Ortisei you can take a (free) bus to Santa Cristina and Selva. Between the three towns there are numerous lifts into the mountains. I believe there are three lifts from Ortisei alone. We purchased a pass that gave us access to all the lifts in the area.

We had a wonderful time and we can't wait to go back.

Posted by
11055 posts

We found our base in Ortisei at Hotel Grones was perfect to get to hikes and town.

Posted by
351 posts

You can contact the tourist information office by email and they will mail you a huge package with info on huts, hikes, public trans port for free. The Dolmites are wonderful, as is Switzerland but I would never compare and orange to an apple? Both are great. Also for high quality maps, I get mind out of stores in the UK. Try Compass maps, detailed hiking maps of all types that you wont find in the USA. Good luck and enjoy your trip. J

Posted by
16028 posts

Oh my, where to start. My husband and I are avid hikers, and while in our late 70’s are still fit and healthy enough to tackle some strenuous ones. We have been to Switzerland for hiking 6 times over the past 20:years, usually 2 weeks at a time. And to the Dolomites 3 times, including a wonderful guided hiking trip last September with a small Oregon company called Mountain Hiking Holidays.

I am currently planning a trip next September with two of our adult children and their partners/spouses and 2 grandchildren who will be 11. The trip started out to be just Switzerland, upon request of our son and his family—we were there together in 2018, and had been there pre-grandchildren several times with all of our adult kids. We think of Mürren and Bettmeralp as “home” and the place we all go to celebrate my “big” birthdays ( like 60 and 70). But after our recent trip to the Dolomites I had to add that area to next summer’s trip, dividing our time between Mürren, Bettmeralp, and Alpe di Siusi. My husband and I agree that it is the most beautiful place we know, and we have seen and hiked in a lot of mountains, all over the world.

It seems not easy to get to as the popular Swiss villages, because one must use buses and, perhaps, a gondola lift to get there. I am sure Laurel’s book explains it, and I assure you that it all does work out.

If you want to see mountains, do not be satisfied with Castelrotto. Stay in Val Gardena ( Ortesei and Hotel Grones are popular here; we like smaller Santa Cristina for views of Sasso Lungo from our balcony). Both villages have lifts that will take you up to the higher area where you can walk on trails at various grades, to mountain huts for lunch, and then to another lift to ride back down. Your hotel will likely offer half board as an option and the food is wonderful.

Or stay up on Alpe di Siusi for beautiful views all around, and easy walking right from the hotel. See photos here:

https://www.seiseralm.it/en/active/summer-holidays/hiking.html#bm=oac%3Asummer&cat=Hiking-main,Hiking%20trail,Long%20distance%20hiking%20trail,Theme%20trail&filter=r-fullyTranslatedLangus-,r-onlyOpened-,sb-sortedBy-0

The Dolomites are quite different from the Swiss Alps, in that the peaks are not snow-covered. But they are no less beautiful, rising as rugged rock from rolling hills and meadows which are still green in September.

Posted by
16028 posts

Coming from Padua, and heading to Austria after the Dolomites, you will use the main north-south train line through Bolzano. That is where you meet the Sud Tirol bus to Val Gardena (Ortesei or other town). From Padua to Bolzano is an easy journey of 2.5 to 3 hours, with a change at Verona Porta Nuova.

From Bolzano to Hall in Tirol is another easy journey, around 2.5 hours, with a single change in Brennero or Innsbruck.

Posted by
11247 posts

Hi Carol. Maybe this stylized map will help http://www.gardenacard.com/img/Faltkarte_Gardena_Card.pdf. It shows the lifts included in the Val Gardena Card. There are three major lifts from Ortisei: Seceda, Rasciesa, and Mont Sëuc, which is to the Alpe di Siusi. From Ortisei you can take the bus to S. Cristina, Selva, and beyond to access other lifts. If you only have a few nights, you probably do not need to go beyond Ortisei to keep busy and entertained. More time = explore more depending on your hiking stamina. (As you know, we are “easy-hikers.)

It is about an hour by bus from the Bolzano train station to Ortisei on a very nice bus. Well worth the trip to be in the valley with the mountains and so many trails and lifts accessible on foot or via a bus ride to a neighboring town.

LMK if I can elaborate further.

Posted by
473 posts

We are going to be in the Val Gardena for a second time this summer. We will be coming from Venice via Verona to Bolzano by train. The bus is number 350 that you want. The bus station is a 5 minute walk from the train station. The bus leaves at 28 past the hour every hour. We stay in Selva which is the highest village in the Val Gardena. Lot’s of options for hiking. Plus they include a bus pass for the time you are there. Also hotels and most vacation rentals include the Val Gardena Active Pass. It has lots of activities you can join for free or a little money. You will enjoy yourself in the dolomites. You can message me if you need more information.

Posted by
647 posts

Huge Thanks to those who replied on this post. It's taken me awhile to process the information; "life, including grandkids" prevented me from devoting time to look at the links some of you included with your posts.

Carrie, yes, it would be so much simpler to head to Switzerland and the Lauterbrunnen valley, especially since I like to revisit places, but I'm trying to venture into other mountain areas. I may ask you questions later about your stay in Innsbrook and visiting Hall for the day. Thanks also for the YouTube links. I hope to take time to watch them later.

Jean, Carroll, Suki: Seems like all of you recommend Ortisei and Hotel Grones. Carroll, did you travel from Venice to Ortisei in one day; or did you break up the trip by spending the night in Bolzano?

Joanne1108: regarding physical maps, vs on-line, I did look up maps on Amazon, but couldn't tell whether the maps included hiking trails as well as roads. Since most public transportation in the area is via bus, I'd like to have a map that included both.

Lola: Regarding your post about "Getting to Alpe di Siusi". I took notes as well as bookmarked it. Right now it seems "easiest" to stay in Ortisei, but like you, I also want to stay up on Alpe di Siusi, but I still can't get a "visual" as to hotel locations. I know when we were there in. 2017, I remember retail shops, restaurants, and hotels near the lift stations in Compatsch. Thank you also for the links to the brochures from the area.

Laurel: Huge thanks to you also. I have analyzed the link you provided for the overview map. I now know where Castelrotto is in relation to the towns in "Val Gardena" and especially Ortisei. I had not realized how large an area the "Dolomites" is, and all the little towns with lifts going up the mountain.
I also bought your 2nd edition of Walking in Italy's Val Gardenaand am so glad I did because of the interactive maps and links. I had your first edition, and so hesitated in getting the new one, but to anyone else reading this sentence heading to the Dolomites, do yourself a favor and buy the book. I'm reading it on my iPad so the maps are larger. I'm also taking note of places to eat, etc. I also emailed the Tis in the area and received via email, links to maps of the specific areas, including bus routes, etc.
Laurel, I also read in your book that you like to stay a couple of nights up at the Alpe di Siusi. I'm trying to figure out how we can stay 5-6 nights in the area, so we too could stay a couple of nights in Compatsch.
In 2017, we walked toward the Schlern (mountain) and I thought the views from our walk absolutely magnificent. Don't know if I would have the same view if taking the lift from Ortisei and walking.
If we stay near Compatsch, a concern would be to make sure we can get to Bolzano early to catch the train to Austria and Hall in Tirol.

Richard: Thanks for the specific info on the bus # from Bolzano. I looked up Selva, but it seems to me that the lifts from that town goes to trailheads that have more elevation gain/loss.
Thanks to all of you, I now have a better understanding of the area. We just need to finalize our "days" and start reserving places. It's a problem because right now my "wish list" is longer than we have days.

Posted by
11247 posts

Carol, you can easily do both Ortisei and the AdS with 5 or 6 nights, of course I would encourage you to stay 6 nights, 4 in Ortisei and 2 in the AdS. We like AlpenHotel Panorama or Hotel Saltria. Spend you 4 nights in Ortisei, take the bus and then the cableway to Compatsch. If you stay at Panorama, you might want to taxi up from Compatsch if you have luggage as the chairlift, although spacious, is a challenge with more than a backpack. If you stay at Saltria, you take a short bus ride from Compatsch. Either makes a good place to stay and enjoy the Alpe.

When you depart, spring for a taxi to Bolzano. Well worth the cost for the convenience.

Posted by
1507 posts

All the people in this forum seem to prioritize Hall in Tirol; I cannot see any reason, as it is a nice place but it is in the main valley, low in elevation, surrounded by industrial areas. Innsbruck has much more sights than Hall, but, above all, it is surrounded by small mountain villages that have a much more Alpine feeling than Hall and Innsbruck itself.

Igls and Lans are linked by urban buses (in working days, there is a bus every 15 minutes), while Natters and Mutters are linked by the Stubaital tramway. Other villages have OeBB buses. I have spent a lot of holidays in one of them (Igls): basically, you are within Innsbruck or very close, but much higher in elevation than the main city, and with a mountain vibe lacking to Hall and Innsbruck downtown.

Posted by
2633 posts

I applaud you for trying a new area. I hope you come back from the dolomites saying how easy it was to get around. That might give me the push that I need to go. 😊

For Austria, if you haven’t already done so, you might want to check out Seefeld as a base instead of Hall. I was almost going to stay there, but was able to get a free hotel room in Innsbruck with credit card points. Seefeld gave me a Wengen-vibe when i watched some you tube videos and I think it would be a great base for walks/hikes.

Austria has create tourism websites and they can send you printed maps and material via regular mail. I found them helpful for planning purposes.

https://www.innsbruck.info/en/destinations/brochures.html

Looks like seefeld is just digital now:

https://www.seefeld.com/en/region-tyrol-service/brochure

Posted by
647 posts

*Carrie: You have excellent research skills. Thanks to you, I just sent a request to Innsbruck for a couple of brochures which will be mailed to me within 7-10 days. I would have never discovered that info on my own. When you were in Innsbruck, did you do a day trip to Seefeld? Also, did you and you sister ride the Nordkettenbahn up to Hafeleker?
What were some of your day trips from Innsbruck when you stayed there for a week?

*Iachera: I'll have to do more research. I haven't heard of any of the places you mentioned. But you make a good case for Igls. Right now I have tentatively "penciled in" 4 nights in the Austrian Tirol.

Posted by
2633 posts

Carol, I had such great things planned for my time in Innsbruck 😊, then 2 things happened. First, my sister decided to come along, which was great, but she’s more of a shopper than a hiker and she has some health issues, so I had to make it an “easier” trip. And then second, we both got food poisoning. ☹

You can read what we ended up doing here in my trip report:

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/two-sisters-in-austria-a-little-switzerland-our-trip-report

Some of the things I had planned but we didn’t get to:

Nordkettenbahn to Hafelekar

Day trip to Mittenwald, Germany

Day trip to Kufstein. There was a cow parade scheduled that we missed.

https://www.thecrazytourist.com/15-best-things-kufstein-austria/
https://www.tyrol.com/things-to-do/attractions/all-attractions/a-kufstein-old-town

Didn’t make it to seefeld.

https://www.seefeld.com/en/a-bergbahnen-rosshuette

I also had Kitzbuhel on my list as a possible day trip

https://ontheworldmap.com/austria/ski/kitzbuhel/kitzbuhel-sightseeing-map.jpg

I liked Innsbruck and it worked out as a good base for us. I loved walking by the river and taking photos of the colorful buildings. I really liked walking around Hall, but I would not stay there. I like a little bigger location with some more options for eating and a big grocery store. The train station in Innsbruck had a big grocery store, a few bakeries and a restaurant or two. I don’t recall the train station in Hall having any services. And most things were closed when i was in Hall, but i think i was there on a sunday.

Posted by
70 posts

Hi Carol,

As others have noted, Ortisei will make a perfect base for exploring the Dolomites again. The town is easily reached via public transportation and once you are there you will be able to walk to some of the best lifts in the region assuming you stay in or near Ortisei. Not to mention excellent dining options! The Mont Seuc lift station to reach Alpe di Siusi and the lift station for Seceda Mountain, which is a must-see in my opinion, are practically located across from each other in Ortisei. Hiking Seceda is definitely something any fit hiker can handle at any age. You can spend anywhere from an hour to all day roaming beneath the peaks. Here are directions on how to reach Seceda from Ortisei, as well as details on some of the sights and restaurants worth visiting: https://throneandvine.com/dolomites-hiking-seceda-guide/