I agree with Janet, the Oltrarno district south of the river is wonderful for just meandering. Serious artisan workshops, art restorers, quirky little shop windows, it's work-a-day artistic Florence in action. You can get out of the very busy Florentine pedestrian center and enjoy evening walks in a quieter, delightful neighborhood. Besides some good small hotels and great value Air BnB's, there are also some very good Florentine steak houses and trattorias, gelaterias, small surprise eateries in this area, mostly frequented by locals. We stayed in the hills above Paizzale Michaelangelo, at Villa Agape (late February 2019). We lucked out with good weather, 9 sunny days in Tuscany, but still very cool. It was colder/windier in Siena and the hill towns. The hotel had a free shuttle between the hotel and the Oltrarno or several points North of the river, on call, from around 8 am to 10 pm - don't know if this service is still offered. It was like being in the country, olive groves and country roads for a good walk, yet having all of Florence at your feet. Slept with windows open at night, no noise (!), spectacular views. You can also opt to walk down to the Oltrarno, takes about 20 minutes, all downhill of course. The hotel itself belonged to the Duchess of Aosta, then it was a convent, now charmingly reinvented again. Anyway, we enjoyed this quieter side of Florence. It provided a very relaxed platform from which to launch into Florence every day! This area may not be for everyone but we certainly enjoyed it.