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Circumvesuviana Train Update

Do NOT take this train between Naples and Sorrento. We took it in early October in the middle of the day and it was not safe! We are experienced world travelers and have taken many modes of public transportation and usually enjoy the local experience when we do. To say there are pickpockets is mild. There are experienced thieves and each stop brings a new batch on to harass the riders. We were prepared to watch for pickpockets we had read about. From the minute we got on the platform in Naples to wait for the train to Sorrento, we were surrounded by thieves….literally. They were aggressively approaching us and other travelers with questions, trying to get us to look up at signs and pretty much every trick in the book. When we got on the train, it was worse. We had to constantly watch each other’s backs and verbally tell people to back away. At one stop, a group of thieves rolled on an amplifier and turned it up so loud a person could have screamed and no one would have heard. They sent a young girl about 6 years old down the aisle dancing with a cup to create a distraction while the others tried to pickpocket. Every stop brought on a new batch of thieves. When we got off the train in Sorrento, a couple from another car told us they had their suitcase LIT ON FIRE and they were SPIT on by the local teens. There is NO security of any sort on this train and the locals know it. Take a bus or hire a car to get to Sorrento!!!

Posted by
7355 posts

You clearly had a stressful journey, but sounds like you were alert and aware of the situation. I gather you were not personally pickpocketed, robbed, or physically injured? We used that train on several trips during our stay over New Year's in Sorrento. Maybe it was the itme of year, but we had no problems except for one rude, pushy guy shoving and elbowing his way to an open seat, leaving several elderly and/or female passengers still standing.

Without taking a hired car, the train is an efficient way to get around, although some of the other people on the train might warrant being observant and careful.

Posted by
715 posts

I have travelled on the Circumvesuviana several times in May and June and have never experienced anything like what you are portraying.

Posted by
1589 posts

My wife took the Circumvesuviana Train from Naples to Sorrento in May in the late afternoon. Yes, it was crowded but we never felt threatened. If a thief tried to steal anything he could not get more than 2 feet away. The next day we took it to and from Pompeii mid morning and returned early afternoon and there were no crowds. Just a normal casual train ride.

Posted by
663 posts

I've used that train several times in the last week at different times of the day, including today. I felt safe. Yes musicians come on board and play music, then send around someone to collect money, and occasionally someone comes to beg money, but I just ignored them or shake my head no. The vast majority of Italians are honest law abiding people. Don't let a few bad eggs scare you away.

Posted by
51 posts

One bit of advise if you have doubts: ride in the same car as the motorman, particularly later in the evening.

Two summers ago we were in Sorrento for a week and rode the Circumvesuviana dozens of times at all hours. We never experienced a problem. But I grew up in NYC and have eyes in back of my head. Be wary, use common sense, etc. but sometimes I wonder whether all the scare stories I heard about the Circumvesuviana were about the same train we used daily.

Posted by
3941 posts

We used it in Sept and had no issues...other then some crowding...I felt the Naples train stn was actually better then when we were there in 2008...

Posted by
11613 posts

I have experienced the whole range of behaviors on the Circumvesuviana, including many of what soccer.home describes. When the train is crowded, be vigilant about your belongings.

Posted by
4154 posts

I'd say that if there were that many PPs and thieves on the same car, they were either very stupid or on their way to a trade convention. Who were they going to PP or steal from, each other?

My husband and I rode the CV 3 times when we were in the area in 2009. Granted it was early October, but there was almost no one on it any of those times. But maybe we were in the conductor's car every time.

Posted by
2 posts

It sounds as if many of those who have commented didn't encounter problems. Glad to hear this. I should clarify that we each had one medium sized luggage and were unable to sit because there wasn't room for our suitcases. So, we were standing in the train door area which isn't the best place to be. If you have luggage larger than a Rick Steve's type backpack, you won't be able to sit. So, maybe only take the train only if you have a backpack or luggage you can hold on your lap so you are able to take a seat. We were with a local Italian man also with a suitcase in the door area and he was equally swarmed upon. (However, the couple we met after the train ride who were in another car did have seats when her suitcase was lit on fire and they were spit on.) It is important to note, this was the only issue we have ever had in all our travels of Italy (many) and we return because we do have beautiful trips and meet lovely Italians. We just won't take this train again.

Posted by
15161 posts

From the description alone I can affirm with 100% certainty that those were gypsies from Eastern Europe. When you run into those kids, the only way out is to get nasty to them, no matter how young they are.

Posted by
4154 posts

Roberto, for future reference, what is the nastiest and most despicable thing you could do to the spitters and firestarters?

Posted by
6 posts

My husband and I had a similar experience on that train some years ago. It was very upsetting. Seemed to us that the pickpocket may have been working with the conductors approval. There were two and they had cell phones and would change cars at various stops but always came back to our car. Had a newspaper over his arm, a jacket on and sunglasses. Checking everyone out. We did have too much stuff with us and made us vulnerable..We will not ride that train on our next trip..On our return, we arrived early and were in the first car and the seat closest to the conductor for whatever that was worth. No problems on the return..Will hire a driver next time..Also had an encounter with someone that jerked out luggage away and carried and then demanded more money than we wanted to give him..Cant understand why the authorities tolerate this because they are so easy to figure out and spot..

Posted by
15807 posts

We've taken that train as well and while it's certainly a bare-bones commuter, and attention needs to be paid, we didn't have any issues at all.

Posted by
967 posts

In no way do I mean to question the veracity of your experience, which sounds awful, but hopefully it's not the norm. We took that train this morning with no big problems. It is a problem to find room for luggage. Overhead racks won't accommodate a roll-aboard carry-on, but you can slide one flat under two back-to-back seats if someone else doesn't beat you to it. We stood in the end of the car passage with our backpacks against the wall and our suitcase in front for about the first third of the trip. The seats are two facing two, and if you drag your suitcase with you, only two people can fit in those four seats. We waited until everyone else had a seat and a few were left over and then didn't feel guilty about taking up the extra room. The train continued to empty as we got closer to Sorrento. There were actually a lot of families on our car.

We did get taken by one "entrepreneur" in the Naples station while trying to find our way from our Italo train to the Sorrento train. It's confusing because the "Garibaldi" signs I saw were for the outside plaza rather than the underground train station. Our blue-coated "helper" who kept pointing to his name badge on his jacket and insisting he worked for the station, led is directly to the place to buy out tickets, through the turnstiles, and down the steps to the correct track, carrying our luggage down the steps. I thought I was possibly getting scammed, but he was helpful, and I thought it was worth 5 euro. He asked for 10 instead but didn't create a scene when I refused.

Our guide in Naples had offered a car service for 130 euro one way, which I really didn't want to pay. When we arrived in Sorrento I discovered that there are still ferries running multiple times daily from here to Naples. Hopefully the seas will be smooth on Tuesday when we need to return so we can take the ferry instead of the train.