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Advice please for 1st and probably only trip to Italy in April 2025

Hello! My husband and I are taking our 1st trip to Italy in April 2025. We are flying into Venice on March 31st and out of Rome on April 16th. We are staying in Venice for 3 nights, 3 nights in Cinque Terre, and the last 2 or 3 nights in Rome but we have 6 or 7 nights that I am agonizing where to go. We are not big art or museum people but love to walk or sit in nature. We are trying to decide if we should go to the Dolomites after Venice and before Cinque Terre. i see that the lifts will not be running and a lot of the hotels and restaurants may be closed and because I don't know if the buses will really be running, I am reluctant to make hotel accommodations in some of the recommended places like Ortesei or Merano. I did see an AirBnb in Bolzano but I have read that some people were quite disappointed with that area. In light of possible bad weather, should we skip this?

Also, after Cinque Terre, we are looking for somewhere lovely to stay that isn't commercial, is quiet and ideally somewhere that we can explore right around where we are staying instead of day trips. Would Sienna, Orvieto or Assisi be a good fit or somewhere else? Thanks so very much for your help, Pam Dean

Posted by
7129 posts

Welcome!

Rome needs more than 2-3 nights.
A 2 night stay just equals 1.5 days

Florence is your best base for day trips - Lucca, Pisa, Siena, Tuscan hilltowns
Even if you are not museum lovers it’s a lovely compact city with lots to do and the best transportation options.

Assisi is nice but not well connected, you’d probably want a car there
Orvieto is lovely as well, worth a night or 2

I would give Rome a minimum of 4 nights.

Other places to consider are Verona and Bologna

Posted by
3199 posts

Rome is a spectacular city to walk around in and if you visit Vatican City make it a minimum of four nights. Orvieto makes a good day trip from Rome’s Termini station and if you go add an extra night in Rome.
I’m no Dolomite expert but a lot of people on this forum are. Bolzano is not in the Dolomites so there’s no reason to sleep there.
Siena is easier to get to from Florence not from the Cinque Terre. Traveling from the Cinque Terre to Rome will use up a good portion of the day and requires a connection.

Posted by
11751 posts

Much good advice above, I.e., Rome needs at least 4 nights so you can enjoy it. You can only do, IMO, one big site a day and then leave the rest of the day to explore, have a long sit over a meal, rest up and go for an evening walk before a relaxed late dinner. That is the Roman way.

As to the Dolomites, it is early. It is neither skiing season nor summer season and activities will be limited. Save it for a September trip sometime. You will be back!

Posted by
17360 posts

I will suggest you break up the journey from Venice to Cinque Terre with a 2-3 night stop in Desenzano del Garda, at the southern end of Lago di Garda. It is right on the train line between Venice and Milan. You can continue from there to Milan to take the direct Intercity train to Monterosso Al Mare, OR you could take the short ride to Verona and change there to a train heading to Florence for a few days in Tuscany.

Here is some information on what to see and do at Desenzano:

https://www.visitdesenzano.it/en/

We like Hotel Park, right on the lake with beautiful views.

Posted by
8529 posts

two nights is plenty for the CT. Assisi would be a good choice for a couple days. A couple places where a few days would be lovely are Luca, Bologna or Siena. We love Florence but it is really about the art.

Posted by
1079 posts

Hello Pam, and welcome to the forum!

Some notes here:
- Venice to CT is probably realistically 8+ hours from door to door since you're crossing the country at almost it's widest point and both areas are logistically difficult.
- April is early for the mountains given the logistics of snowy travel and ski areas. But I'll leave mountain travel details to those with more experience.
- Keep in mind that going off the beaten track in any country - especially off season - is going to decrease the amount of English people are likely to speak. Italians are open to communications and will work with you to figure things out but there are limits to what you can communicate non-verbally. (That said I was able to once get an acestyle wrap bandage from a farmacia just before closing using only pantomime so much is possible this way.)

I would suggest breaking up the travel from Venice with a stop along Lake Garda - maybe someplace like Malcesine. It will be early season for the lake so services may be limited but it also means fewer tourists. It offers a cable car up to the top of Mount Baldo - realistically probably snow - which will give you some mountain access via cable car. The upper lake ferry will probably be on a limited schedule that early in the year but it should give you access to the other upper lake towns.
Getting to Malcesine is a bit of challenge since there is no train but a bus from Verona or Peschiera del Garda just outside Verona is an option. Verona itself is a pretty town that might be worth a night (Venice to Verona is is about 1.5 hours on the train) before heading up to the Lake area.

Siena is a beautiful and well worth visiting but is very well touristed (for good reason) but maybe in April it will be early enough to find more locals and fewer tourists. If you really want a pretty town without tourism you might look at Pistoia which is on the train line from Lucca > Pistoia > Prato and then Florence. I like Lucca and while it is much less touristed than Siena you do hear a fair amount of English on the main street in the summer months. In April it will probably be just locals but if you want only Italian life then Pistoia offers access to Florence, Pisa and the big sites without any tourism. Lucca is closer to nature than Pistoia - which is surrounded by industry - and quick walk will take you along the river towards Pisa or follow the local aqueduct into the nearby hills. You can bike to Pisa or even bike to the beach in 45 minutes if that interests you.

Orvieto is small and will probably be very quiet in April but offers reasonable train access along the main line. The views from Orvieto are amazing - although less green in April - and is surrounded by countryside. You might look into Arezzo - across the valley from Siena - which has started to gain some tourist interest but in April will be sleepy. It offers access to Florence on an easy train and some other hills towns like Cortona and a bus will take you to Siena in 1:15.

Hope that helps, have a great time planning a great trip,
=Tod

Assisi is way too far off the beaten track and would make a poor base for anything other than Assisi.

Posted by
10 posts

The Dolomites are incredible but March/April it will be dead. Bolzano is not very exciting. That said, the small town of Castelrotto is very charming for 2 nights, and you can do some short day hikes.

Verona is a beautiful spot for 2 nights to wander around. It’s not filled with any “blockbuster” sights but great to just promenade. Same with Siena. You could choose two of those locations and of course as everyone else said you absolutely need to add another night or two to Rome.

Posted by
1691 posts

Merano is not in the Dolomites; it is also quite low in elevation, but it is an elegant spa destination and probably best visited in April as it is extremely hot in summer. There is also a just renovated railway along Venosta valley with interesting side hikes (again, no Dolomites).

Posted by
8 posts

Good morning! I woke up to 8 replies and I felt like I had won the lottery! LOL So many great ideas that I printed out everyone's response and will take some time to study each suggestion. I can't tell you how grateful I am! Thank you all so much for your help! I will post later to let you know what we decide on! Thank you again, Pam

PS I don't yet totally understand the forum but I am hoping you all get this thank you or should I individually respond to each person?

Posted by
1079 posts

@Pam Dean - just saying thanks to everyone is fine. Some people reference specific people like this using the @ symbol but it doesn't alert people the way it does on social media. They'll only see your message if they check in on the thread again and read your response. So also if you ask a follow up of someone for something they said there is no guarantee they'll see it and answer you back.

You can direct message people if you have specific or sensitive questions of specific person but I think this is lightly used to respect people's time and attention. Direct messaging everyone would be overkill but if someone really helps you sending them a message of thanks would be appreciated by them I'm sure.

Enjoy sorting through everything and circle back when you have additional questions,
=Tod

Posted by
4890 posts

Your response is plenty, any acknowledgement is appreciated!
I am a complete nature nut, but before making any suggestions--are you open to renting a car, or did you want to stick to public transport? Tuscany would be the obvious choice if the mountains are ruled out for weather reasons, but transport becomes a factor.
I concur, I would make it at least three nights in Rome--only two full days to fill, which will be a snap. I am an avid hiker but I would not give CT more time than Venice and Rome (I would not give CT less, just the others more).

Posted by
979 posts

Hi there, and welcome to the forum! I'd suggest you check out the towns & areas that interest you here on the website, lots of short videos and descriptions of places. https://www.ricksteves.com/europe/italy. And consider going to the library with partner to delve into it a bit more, I like DK guides because it shows you places in some 3-D detail.

We are not big art or museum people but love to walk or sit in nature.

Just checking if this includes big city walking interspersed with gelato, ancient ruins, & wonderful meals? The reason I ask is if not, you might be one of the few people I suggest not spend much time in Rome. I've been to Rome at least 25 times and adore it, but you might not! If what you want is smaller towns after Venice & going to the CT, lots of good ideas here already. We've hiked a few days outside Florence with no set agenda, you could take a look at guide books and choose to stay longer in one place, for instance in Lucca or Sienna (more tourists) and take day hikes. https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/lucca-italy

Posted by
8 posts

@Tod - Thanks so much for explaining how to use the forum. This is better than winning the lottery! LOL And your original post was also so very helpful! Thanks so much!

@ - Valadelphia- We are not going to rent a car as driving in a foreign country would stress my poor hubby.

@sanddancisco - Thanks for the links. I can't wait to check them out. Good question if we like strolling in a big city. I would say "No" and that is why I originally was planning less days in Rome and thinking small, beautiful towns. Crowds are not our favorite at
all. We love people for sure but enjoy smaller, intimate groups.

Posted by
2193 posts

Welcome Pam! I know you're excited by the prospects of your upcoming trip!

You've gotten some good advice so far. I'm offering a more general suggestion. The charms of Italy are both the wonderful metropolitan areas of Rome/Florence/Venice/Milan and the charming rural villages such as the hill towns found in Tuscany. It's like Cary -Raleigh/Durham is one aspect of North Carolina and Mount Airy is another. The same thing for us in Georgia, there's Atlanta and then there's our hometown of Juliette that has a population of 290. I suggest you strive to get a taste of both.

How will you be traveling? That will figure in to how you can have the uncommercial experience you desire. We had a wonderful experience spending a week at an agriturismo outside of Greve. There was plenty to explore within 45 minutes of where we stayed, but this exploration was only viable with a car.

Look hard at the realities of Cinque Terre. It is suffering from over tourism. Think about Myrtle Beach the way it was decades ago and how it is now. It's good you are spending the night there because you have to be there before and after the day trippers from cruise ships descend on the area. If you go to CT, you'll have to devote a significant amount of time out of your limited time budget to go where there's limited amount of things to do compared with other areas of Italy.

YouTube is your friend. There's tons of videos of all the areas you mentioned that will help you decide what you want to see.

Posted by
4890 posts

Without a car, I would look at the many coastal villages of Liguria, as they are so easy to explore by train.
Unless you are interested in much hiking, I would look at alternatives to CT since you mentioned not enjoying crowds.
I love the idea of some quiet balance in between Venice and Rome. It is a challenge to find the right place to balance having options without a car, but you will get there. Good luck!

Posted by
79 posts

ROMA
Never underestimate Rome, the Queen of all... but wait. You stated clearly you wish to avoid the big city experience... Though the very fibres of my body scream with dissatisfaction, I shall nobly refrain from subtly but firmly advising you to spend a minimum of 4 nights there.

Having read every Italy guide book, including Rick Steves Italy, from cover to cover over the last three years, repeatedly, it is very clear that the way to enjoy CT and Vernazza is by staying the night but never the day. Confined minuscule spaces with hordes of tourists result only in all round asphyxiation. One night is enough I gather. Other charming Ligurian coastal villages nearby such as Camogli, Levanto and Santa Maria Ligure seem more than satisfactory.

Consider staying 2 nights in Tuscany's Volterra hill town, which is remote, small and comparatively uncrowded.

Having just returned from Bologna/Pisa I would not recommend them to those who seek to commune with nature, as they are clearly cities. My one Bologna complaint, apart from my complaint that there was only the one fountain, is that there was no greenery. I loved both though.

Posted by
79 posts

And there is of course walled Lucca, every connoiseurs favourite and the secret destination of Italians in the know. Just the right size, just the right sense of calm, and just the right amount of small old-world palazzo museums. I hear they even have intimate evening concerts with just the right duration...

Posted by
559 posts

I would do the following trip if it were me. All can be done with public transport. You might want to look at if the connections around Siena are better with bus or a combination bus train.
Venice 4 nights- I added a night to get over jet lag
Lucca 2 nights - breaks up the trip to CT
Cinque Terre- 3 nights - take boat to Portovenere one of your days
Siena 3 nights
Rome 4 nights.

If you do only want 3 nights in Venice and Rome, then you could go from Siena to Orvieto for 2 nights as well.

Posted by
8 posts

@DouigMac = Thank you so much for the suggestion of the agriturismo outside of Greve. We are not going to rent a car this time but maybe next time if I talk my husband into a second trip!

@valadelphia - I will look into Liguria...that's one I am unfamiliar with.

@Cherryplanter. - I love your self restraint! I need to practice more of that with our young adult children! LOL That is amazing that you have read every Italy guide book from cover to cover! I have Rick Steve's and have requested 3 others from the library but I don't think I will ever catch up to you! I will look into Camogli, Levanto, Santa Maria ligure, Volterra and Lucca. Thank you so much for the suggestions!

@Lisa - I will look at all the other suggestions but I think your trip sounds very inline with what I am leaning towards and think will work for us! Unfortunately the AirBnb I booked is full so we can only get 3 nights in Venice but I love the idea of adding Orvieto after Sienna. I am definitely getting closer to an agenda! Thank you!

What a wonderful community that is so willing to give their time to share their experience! Thank to everyone for your help!

Posted by
979 posts

Crowds are not our favorite at all

Hey Pam, well Rome is going to be crowded in April. I had to laugh about someone refraining from suggesting you should really, really visit Rome anyway. But, you don't like big cities or crowds, so if that's the case, you could spend your last night in Fumicino, the little town by FCO, (Rome's major airport), if that’s where you’re flying out of Italy, and just skip Rome.

I’m glad someone else mentioned the crowds in Cinque Terre, I too love walking and lack of crowds, and 20+ years ago CT was already too crowded for me. Someone above suggested checking out other villages in the area, if you'd like a coastal destination.

Just checking how much traveling you've done in Europe by train & if you're a light packer? With your evolving itinerary, you would be moving 5x in 15 days, which is a nice pace but you may lose 1/2 a day with each transit, depending upon distance, packing, & train schedules. I liked the idea of breaking up the trip in Lucca. Are your hotels refundable? (So for example if you got to Lucca or Sienna and decided to stay awhile, could you change your plans?) It sounds like an amazing trip!

Posted by
1563 posts

As others have said, there are lovely places on the coast of Liguria besides the Cinque Terre that will be far less crowded and also have hiking trails. For instance, we stayed in Camogli for 5 nights and could have walked to the abbey of San Fruttuoso (if I could have walked on that trip) but we took the ferry along the coast instead. Look at some Google photos of Camogli.

On other trips, we've spent 5 nights each in Siena and in Orvieto, and either or both would fit your travel preferences better than Rome (which we adore but, wow, was it ever crowded in January this year compared to other times we've been there!). There is no law that you have to go to Rome, although if you do, take the train out to Ostia Antica to walk around in the ruins of an ancient Roman town without the crowds of Rome.

Also, check to see if there are walking trails leaving from Siena, Orvieto, or any Italian town you decide on --- we have noticed that many towns we have stayed in have such walking routes.

Posted by
979 posts

Forgot to add - If you look here, https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/italy/i-do-not-want-to-stay-in-rome-after-a-cruise#bottom, there are a number of hotel recommendations further down for Ostia & Fiumicino. I liked the looks of the Hotel Tiber in Fiumicino. It's a good idea to be close to your departure airport the night before, just in case of train delays.

The underground tours in Orvieto look amazing! https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/italy/orvieto-underground-which-one-differences.

Posted by
8 posts

@Sandancisco - Thank you so much for the websites about hotels in Rome. After reading them, I did book the Hotel Tiber for our last night as many had recommended it. So far, I have only booked it and an Airbnb in Venice and both are refundable. I will definitely keep cancellation policies in mind as I book other accommodations in case we want to stay somewhere longer once we get there.

I have only traveled to London for a month with my sister in college. I remember being in the train station and realizing that we should have brought our dad with us as we had more luggage than the two of us could carry. Somehow we managed but it isn't a fond memory! LOL I usually say that I would like to be looking at it instead of looking for it when I pack but this trip I am going to bring only a backpack. I watched a video yesterday of a young lady explaining her packing ideas. She had a super nice blazer and I googled it thinking it would make me look young and beautiful like her and then found it is $795. My husband jokingly said I can pick either the trip to Italy or the blazer! Needless to say, I won't be sporting the blazer! I now have an excuse to wear my frumpy old clothes! LOL

@Nancys 8- Thanks for the suggestions of Camogli, Siena and Orvieto. After all the rave reviews, we will stay in Siena and Orvieto for a minimum of 2 nights each. I also expanded my search of lodging around the CT and found an Airbnb in La Spezia with a gorgeous view and somehow I closed out of it and now it is nowhere to be found. So back to looking again! I did find a website that shows which days cruise ships land in La Spezia next year. In the beginning of April when we will be visiting, they only land on the 2nd, 9th, and 11th. In May, June and July, most days have at least one ship landing and some days have 2 ships landing. I am hopeful this website has the correct information and I am going to try and time our visit to CT before the 9th. If anyone is interested in the website, it is https://www.cruisemapper.com/ports/la-spezia-port-160?month=2025-04#schedule

Thanks so much for your kind help! Pam

Posted by
979 posts

Hi there, just so you're clear, you've booked a hotel in Fiumicino, the small village close to FCO, outside of what most people would call Rome. Which seems to fit your requirements!

Posted by
17360 posts

It would be nice to have 4 nights in Venice instead of three. If the AirBnB you booked can be canceled, I suggest you look instead at one of the reliable apartment rental agencies that we ourselves have used for Venice. I recommend this over AirBnB rentals for several reasons. For first-time visitors to Venice, it is nice to have the back-up and support of the management team if you need it. And the company will provide a representative to meet you at the nearest vaporetto dock and show you the way to the apartment and give you a little orientation before handing you the keys. They will also explain things about recycling and garbage collection, which can be confusing.

With AirBnB you are at the mercy of individual owners who may or may not be helpful, and the directions they provide to the apartment may or may not be sufficient. On our recent multi-day (5 nights) stay in Venice, in March 2023, there were 3 separate occasions where we saw visitors arriving with luggage struggling with the directions on their phone as they lugged their roller bags up and over bridges.

One time it was a group of 4 young women (Americans) and they could not agree on what the map directions on their phone were saying. I looked at the location, then showed them a paper map, and walked them to the top of the street they needed to take (it was nearby but they were heading the wrong way). The second time was a British couple who were very grateful for some help. The third time it was a German couple, in a confusing maze of dark streets in the area north of San Marco. The wife was in tears and the husband was angry, and I felt it best to not intervene. I hope they worked it out.

The two agencies I recommend are Venice Red House, owned and managed by Venetians, and Views on Venice, which I believe is a British company, but the on-site management is Venetian (the apartment we rented from them was right near their office, and when we had trouble with one of the keys they sent someone over in 5 minutes to help).

These are examples of their rentals on offer, available for 4 nights on your dates, both in a location in Dorsoduro we really like. But they have many other apartments all over the island. You can use the links to check out the two apartments and then move to the main page to look at others.

https://veniceredhouse.com/apartments-in-venice/venier-apartment/

https://www.viewsonvenice.com/rentals/apartment-venice-lo-squero-1-the-secret-courtyard-in-dorsoduro-324091.html?FRMEntrada=31/03/2025&FRMSalida=04/04/2025&FRMAdultos=2

Posted by
79 posts

THE NATURE OF THE BEAST

INTERMEZZO - From the personal diary of C
Evening. These past nights have left me listless and forlorn, as a terrible tug of war has taken place in my soul. I have had no sleep and live in waking dreams of Rome and its grandeur; grotesque countenances in vast secret gardens given over to wilderness, whispered names called by distant voices long gone, among the marble ruins of a forgotten imperial past. Even the very intent to rest immediately darkens the mood and leaves me no peace. I was showing restraint, being considerate of another while illuminating the virtues of travel without mentioning the true contents of my heart of hearts, Rome, and what splendours reside there. I am ever thoughtful and unfailingly polite. Now from one day to the next, I am a hollowed out shell and a shadow of my former self. Images of of fountains appear, as I experience a green light, or heat, as emitted by something, a radiance flickering before my eyes. If only I could be rid of this stupor.

I placed a call to my London Doctor, his small practice, J&H, operating out of the cellar of his townhouse on Stevenage Mews, adjacent to Hyde park. He quickly agreed that I needed attending to and fortuitously had an elixir on hand, which he hastily forwarded to my quarters. Imbibement should in mere moments restore my vigor and bestow necessary and complete control of my faculties. The phial has a strange emerald sheen, an acrid smell and a faint rising vapour. I shall drink it presently!

But what is this??? A cold sweat! A terrible vertiginous lightness and a steel band around my head proceeding to crush it! No! No! I shake terribly in excruciating pain, my vision failing me. This is not how it was meant to be! My mind is going. It is as if I can feel my body growing heavier, changing. My thoughts are no longer my own. It is a vanishing! I am disappearing! No!!! No!!! Nooooo....

CHIAROSCURO
Aaaaahh!! Much better! C, that cretinous weakhearted fool has finally gone the way of all mortals. He is worth nothing but contempt. Let him fester spineless among the maggots lest I trample him under my bootheel. Where are the drinks? Give me my cape and cane. There are backs that will feel its sting this evening, and much else besides. A night out on the town awaits, with manifold pleasures. And I shall partake of them all, caring little for the cattle before me, as they serve me, seeing to my every whim. Slaves they are. Let them tremble before my roar. But what is this? A crystalline shimmer, a screen with all the letters of the alphabet upon it. The addle-brained imbecile has kept in it a diary. I will quickly master it with but little effort. A mere minute is all one such as I need to conquer this strange contraption.

(7 hours later)

But what is this??? Dawn breaking already! While I have spent but a little time sitting by the crystal contraption! This is unthinkable! There is no more time. I am weakening by the moment. I shall tear the world asunder for this! My wrath without limit! No!!! No!!! Nooooo....

ARIA
Morning. I am myself again. Though how long it will last I cannot say. A demon resides in my soul. It cannot be suppressed and its bestial nature will not be denied. I now know this and have to act accordingly, but dare not think what the solution may portend. It dare not speak its name. The brute has left some scribblings, trying his hand at a diary no doubt, with notes about Rome, which he calls la Grandissima. And 'tis passing strange, but there seems to be a train of thought, as he progresses to exhort that there is a law that in effect makes one single visit to Rome compulsory, and then enumerates those sites fit for incidental travellers who wish to return to nature; Villa d'Este and Fontana di Trevi. I will think no more of it, and instead open a window and let in the light. It is a clear morning, in spring.

Posted by
8 posts

@ Sandancisco - Thanks so much for the caution. I do realize it is not in Rome but held it until we get the rest of the trip planned and can decide if we will spend any days in Rome or not. I may cave in and we may spend a few! LOL

@Lola - Thanks so much for the recommendation of Views on Venice. I did reserve for 4 nights with them in Venice and cancelled our AirBnB. The place was a little more pricey but looks nicer and so I am so grateful for the referral! Thank you so much!

I now have the first part of our trip planned and I picked up several books from the library so i will be rereading all the great posts above and making further arrangements! I am so grateful for everyone's help! THANKS SO MUCH!

Posted by
17360 posts

I am glad you found something you like in Venice. And the “meet and greet” service will make it so much easier for you. Have a great time in our favorite Italian city!

Posted by
8 posts

@Cherry planter - Oh my word! I woke up this morning and was delighted to read your reply! Honestly I did not inherit linguistic skills like my sisters so I was madly googling to find out if this comes from some famous book that I never read but should have! LOL I never found it referenced on the Internet so could it be that we have an amazingly gifted writer on this forum, a linguistic magic woman, able to put words together or did you find this somewhere? I love it! I especially love the conclusion after the pain and agony, "And 'tis passing strange, but there seems to be a train of thought, as he progresses to exhort that there is a law that in effect makes one single visit to Rome compulsory...".

That was excellent! Truly, you have made my day and are slowly but surely increasing the amount of time we will spend in Rome! Thanks so much! Pam

Posted by
700 posts

Italy is such a great destination - and I hope you widen your horizons. I would suggest that you just spend a few nights in a larger variety of places - that will give you a taste of these locations and then set you up for more in depth return visits.

As it is now, your literary makes me sad to think of what you will get out of your trip. I have been to Rome several times with several different people, and we were always happy to leave after 2 days. And I have been to Venice several times, and after the last time, I never plan to return there again - both places along with Florence are over-touristed to a ridiculous extreme. If you plan on visiting famous places buy tickets in advance. And be aware of the cheap hotels in the dodgy area near the train station.

Meanwhile Cinque Terra is good for a quiet day, but not much to do there.

Meanwhile there are so many other lovely places all over Italy. I am not sure where to start. There are the lakes in the north with many nice towns, there are somewhat Germanic towns like Bergamo, Bolzano, Merano, etc. There is Verona fairly close to Venice and Bolzano. There is Modena and Bologna. There is the Amalfi coast and Sorrento and Pompeii not that far from Rome.

Siena is worth a visit and very dramatic but very touristy food.
Orvieto is nice, but I think you need to drive there. And fairly small.
Assisi is fairly boring. There is one nice view as you drive into the town from the valley below.

There are many other Tuscan towns if you have a car - Montepulciano, Cortona, Voltera, San Gnimigano, etc.

Not that far from Cinque Terra are many other costal towns which are less touristy and more authentic.

There are other northern cities like Torino and the Barolo wine area south of Torino.

The Dolomites are not an easy pop-in situation. There are hundreds of miles, and not particularly easy access. So you have to research this out quite a bit more.

Posted by
79 posts

DIVERTIMENTO - From the personal diary of C

Dear Pam has written me again, excited about the journey she is about to undertake, and extolling the virtue of books! I of course agree with her and will in my reply wish her, as always, success in all her endeavours, trusting that she will put any queries of a literary nature to her sisters. How I now yearn to recommend to her just a few short days in Rome, and to tell her about the splendours of Ostia Antica, and how close to my own heart I hold that dream. She will never know. My respect for her wishes too great. The words will never cross my lips or be put by pen to paper.

But I am not entirely as I have been, and there is reason to contemplate with some care if this matter can at all be divulged in my reply, as the thought of worrying her is farthest from my mind. I must be resolute. She shall henceforth be spared any grief. I will not lose heart, but will instead fortify myself, as I have taken the precaution of once more notifying my London Doctor of my present predicament. He had been walking Hyde Park, where he habitually make short visits after dusk, and my plea reached his ears just as he returned from there. Quick to prescribe an added amount of his elixir, he stridently announced that "Mr C" must have “More! Much more!” to strengthen my condition and vigilantly guard against any and all spells of weakness. And so I shall.

I swear that Dr J strikes me as being two different men at times, his voice almost unrecognizable, cloaked in a preternatural hoarseness. But how one man could somehow, through means unknown, in some strange case be altered, and transform into two very different men, or two men, who were each others opposites, could then revert, immix and meld into one, is beyond me.

As I reached for the newspaper to yet again peruse the outrage and proposed punishments for a monstrous nocturnal fiend who has recently caused an uproar as he lays parts of the city to waste, I caught a glimpse of some documents, strewn about, partially concealed under the chest of drawers, and under the commode. Further scribblings of the madman. The intemperate drunken ruffian has managed another inconsiderate bout of rambling incoherencies, contending that... three nights in Rome will suffice. The handwritten notes are nearly illegible. Villa d'Este… to be done in a day... Fontana di Trevi… only after dusk has fallen… one more day… calm magnificence… Ostia Antica… There is the knock on the door now. I must open it to receive yet another dose of the restorative precious elixir… (continued).

Posted by
383 posts

Late to this party and you have lots of excellent advice already. And so , I will mostly limit this reply to a high level.

First, sounds like you have lots planned already. We loved Cinque Terre when we were there back in 2003, before flood damage and rebuilt trails. We were there just two nights. But as to ‘not much to do there,’ I would respond two ways. First, we absolutely loved taking the boat from Vernazza to Riomaggiore and then walking all the way back, along the Via Amore to Manarola and then on through Corniglia where we had a beautiful lunch and finally back to Vernazza. Second, I remember it as the day ‘I died and went to heaven.’ So … not much to do vs. lovely to simply be there and enjoy.

Now, to my main thoughts.

First, hold open the idea that you’re young enough to go back to Italy, later if not sooner. We’ve now been three times since age 50 … first in 2003, then 2015 and most recently in April 2024.

Second, small towns and small cities offer so much. The Scrovengni Chapel with art by Giotto in Padova, Signorelli frescoes in the Duomo in Orvieto, Etruscan history and beautiful alabaster carvings in Volterra … just to mention some that we have enjoyed. Padova is very convenient to Venice. BTW, as I recall, there are trains from both Florence and Rome that go right to Orvieto and a funicular from the train station there goes straight up the hill to the old, walled hilltop town.

Third, even though you’re not big on art or museums, consider that modern western history and culture was reborn with the magnificent rediscoveries of classic Greek and Roman art and philosophy that originated in Florence and spread to Rome, Venice and other parts of northern Italy in the late 1300s to early 1500s. If you’re put off by the crowds that go to Florence’s Uffizi and Academia and Rome’s Vatican museums, then instead go to churches in all cities and towns that you visit. You will discover frescoes and statues by Michelangelo, Botticelli, Donatello, Ghirlandaio, Fra Angelico, Bernini, Titian, Tintoretto, Massaccio and others. So much of that art was created, site specific for churches and really cannot be moved. The churches are less crowded than museums and timed entries generally are not an issue. I should add that the DK Eyewitness City Guides are superb for planning city walks and sights such as churches to visit. Ditto for Michelin Guides.

Fourth, you can never do it all. On our 2015 trip, I had hoped to get to the Dolomites, but with just 17 days and stops in Rome, Orvieto, Florence, Venice, Padova, Verona, Lake Como (Bellagio) and Milan, we could not fit in a few days in the Dolomites. If we had, then Lake Como would not have made the cut. It was a tough choice.

Fifth and final observation. Be open to the unplanned and unexpected. For us, that included Simcha Torah services in Florence’s synagogue (2003), the Gelato Festival in Orvieto (2015), Piano City music festival (jazz and classical) in Milan (2015 — we learned about this from a local couple we met on the street on our first evening in Milan), and a surrealist art exhibit (Miro, Dali, Magritte, and Ernst) at the Castello Carlos V in Monopoli (2024).

Whatever you do, Buon Viagge.

Posted by
700 posts

Regarding Cinque Terra - I have been to the villages three times over a dozen years. Yes, you can walk between a few of them, and there is the ever-present train that connects them. You can also hike "above" Vernaza on the terrance. In high season there are a few restaurants in each town. In low season, many restaurants just close down. I am not sure how things will be in April. There is a good sized beach on one of them, but more of rocks in the others. There is a secret beach in Vernazza accessed through a cave, but last time, I was there, they seemed to rope that off from use.

This area has gotten on the tourist radar - probably because of a few iconic views. But there are dozens of other coastal towns north or south of that area - from Sestri Levante to Camoglia to Portofino, Savona, Alassio, San Remy, Ventimiglia etc. So depends on what you want to get out of it.

There are also dozens of places off there tourist hotspot radar all over northern Italy.

Posted by
1096 posts

Having tried and failed to enjoy the Cinque Terre this summer, I second the suggestion to find another Ligurian seaside village to visit. The tourist infrastructure in CT is entirely inadequate to serve the hordes of visitors. The ferries are fraught; rough seas (not uncommon) can shut down ferry access to the villages. The rail service can be OK, but there's basically one set of tracks that serves both passenger and freight traffic in both directions. Any maintenance or related issue can delay travel for many hours.

An Italian who works in Monterosso al Mare but lives in La Spezia told us he's seen a rapid deterioration of conditions since travel resumed after Covid. (By the way, we loved La Spezia. Probably the best food we had in any place we visited in Italy.)

Posted by
2193 posts

Fifth and final observation. Be open to the unplanned and unexpected.

This is great advice. We try to leave some room in our itinerary to take advantage of the unexpected. Some of our favorite travel moments were completely unplanned. For instance, we visited the MacMillan ancestral home and the clan chief told us about Knapp Chapel that houses the MacMillan Cross. Our itinerary was loose enough that we were able to stop on our way to the Isle of Mull and spend a morning exploring.