Trip Report and Lots of follow up questions, finally!

May 27: took the 5:25 am Eurostar to Paris. I was so excited to ride the chunnel, but how come nobody told me the first 30 minutes are pure torture as your ears pop constantly?!

Notre Dame: encountered lots of gypsies there; followed R.S. historic core of Paris walk, Latin Quarter, Flower Market, Louvre.

At the Louvre has anyone else experienced a mosh pit atmosphere while trying to see the Mona Lisa, it was unbelievable?

Place de Concorde, Champs Elysees, Arc de Triomphe, Eiffel Tower.

Can you believe we saw all of that in one day?

I recommend rain, there were virtually no lines anywhere because apparently the rain kept the other tourists in their hotels, but not us, we walked soo much that day, we were very tired, but we saw everything on my list for Paris in one day!

May 28: We slept in til 9 (we deserved it right?)
Montmartre and Sacre Couer

After we were done there we went and sat by the Seine for awhile, then went to the Deportation Memorial and on to the Luxembourg Gardens. This was one of our favorite spots in Paris I highly recommend Lux. Gardens to anyone

Overnight train to Venice

May 29: Venice: After a rough night of sleep on the train we found our hotel in Venice and then explored the city.

St. Mark’s: Thank you R.S. for the great tip to check our bag first, we skipped about an hour line (at least)
Bridge of Sighs, Doge’s Palace, Bridge of Miracles, took a Gondola Ride, St. Mark’s Square at night.

What do you do in Venice if you are there for more then one day? We really enjoyed it, but feel like we saw everything we wanted to see, did we miss some major things?

May 30: Rome

3.5 hour train ride to Rome through some beautiful countryside, I do wish we could have stopped along the way and seen some of the Italian countryside. Got a Roma pass (great deal I think)

Ostia Antica: this place is huge! We couldn’t believe how many ruins there were there, and it was virtually deserted so we had the whole place to ourselves, highly recommend this little side trip from Rome.

What other hidden gems have you found in Rome?
May 31: Rome

Coloseum, Arch of Constantine, Forum, Palatine Hill, Arch of Peace, the Vatican, Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel, St. Peter’s. Then we did R.S. Night Walk Across Rome: 4 Rivers fountain, Pantheon, Piazza Colonna, Trevi Fountain, Spanish steps. Good thing I had my cut up R.S. Rome book and decided to consult it right then, because we read that the subway closed at 10 and it was 9:40. Thank you again R.S.

June 1: Rome

R.S. Dolce Vita stroll (during the day of course) Ara Pacis (Altar of Peace), Capitol Hill, Emmanuel Monument, great views of Rome after a lot more steps all the way to the top, worth the walk if you can do it.

Pantheon (open this time) and St. Peter’s in Chains Church. Airport to Barcelona (Ryan Air)

June 2: Barcelona

Sagrada Familia: my favorite place on the whole trip I think. Parc Guell. R.S. walk down the Ramblas, Rambla del Mar, Gothic Quarter walk, Spanish Arc du Triomphe, Block of Discord

June 3: Barcelona and Madrid

Morning train to Madrid then took the metro to Puerta del Sol. We had, what I think is the best hotel ever!

The Hotel Europa, it is right on the square and we had a tiny little balcony where we could watch the action each night on the square and eat gofres(a hot fresh waffle with ice cream and fudge on it) from the Ben and Jerry’s across the street.

Prado Museum, Don Quixote Statue

June 4: Madrid

Palacio Real, R.S. Welcome to Madrid walk, bull fight at Las Ventas, yes very gory and pretty hard to watch, but I did enjoy it as a cultural experience.

One big question from the Bull fight, if anyone knows, they spared one bull, they started the fight, but about halfway through (I will spare you the gory details) they let him go out of the arena with a bunch of bell cows, what is that about?

June 5: Madrid

Hop on Hop Off Bus tour: fyi too hot to do in Madrid even in early June.

Cibeles Fountain, Templo Debalo (Egyptian Temple), Retiro Park which we loved, the “Manhattan area” of Madrid with skyscrapers and all, Plaza Mayor, Plaza del Sol

June 6: fly back to the US and didn’t sleep a wink but I watched 4 good movies.

Overall takeaways: We had a great trip and got to see the main things we wanted to see in every place.

My husband loved London the best and I loved Barcelona the most. I can definitely see us going back to those places and taking more daytrips to other locations around those cities.

We don’t feel like we ever need to go back to Rome or Venice, the only things we wish we had done in France are Normandy and Versailles, we could have fit one in if we knew we could actually do Paris in a day, but even I am not that ambitious in my planning.

My final questions are:

How do you think we did?

Did we miss some major sites you think we should have seen while there?

Is Rome always so dirty? We were flabbergasted by how dirty it was, especially the subway, and we have travelled in NYC Washington DC and Boston so I don’t think we have super high standards.

Are we just crazy fast travelers, because we did this itinerary and enjoyed it?

Thanks for all your advice and I look forward to your answers to these questions.

What is it you want, Chantielle? Applause? A gold star? Approval for some of your silly comments or your poor schedule? Boy, you are a needy person, Chantielle.

Looks like a fantastic trip. Way to go Chantielle! Thanks for sharing. :)

Thanks for your negativity Marshall. I wanted to post a trip report and ask some questions, or could you not read the questions and note the question marks?
Many people on this board helped me plan my trip and asked for a trip report upon my return, so my goal is to share with them what I ended up doing and what I thought of it, and to thank them.

Didn't your mother ever tell you, if you don't have anything nice to say don't say anything at all.
Thanks again to all who helped me, and I really am intersted in the answers to the questions I posted :)

Think you meant the negativity Charles in Texas.

Charles, a good rule of thumb...if you can't say anything good....don't say anything at all.

Chantielle, excellent trip report. Sounds like you two had a wonderful trip. You did great!

Wow -- what trip. Something we would never had done.

....We had a great trip and got to see the main things we wanted to see in every place........

You summed it best. If you thought it was a great trip, then it was -- for you. How can anyone suggest to you that it wasn't??

.......We don’t feel like we ever need to go back to Rome or Venice......

Interesting conclusion based on one day in Venice and two and half days in Rome. We have spent close to three weeks in Rome and are always eager to return. You saw the major tourist attraction while we prefer to see and feel the city.

It is your trip and your trip style and you had good time, enjoyed yourself which is all that is really important.

Yes you are right, so sorry Marshall, I meant Charles!

Frank, I so appreciated all of your guidance while planning and we did have a great trip. We loved seeing the "touristy things" in Rome, but I am curious, what do you see for 3 weeks there? Obviously we didn't really live among the Italians and expeirence that side of life, but are there many more attractions to see?
Thanks again!

Hello Chantielle. We liked reading the report of your trip. What is a "Mosh pit atmosphere" ? I agree with your impresssion of Venice. I think one day in Venice is sufficient time there, for most people. One afternoon in Venice was sufficient time there for me. Rick Steves, in his travel guide books, raved about some towns in Europe. (He said you must go there). But I wonder : is the reason he enjoyed being at some towns, because he was feeling good from being well rested, and he was intoxicated by drinking wine, and his wife was with him. And Rick has European friends in those towns, because he visited there many times, very many years. That is not the same as an American's first visit at a town in Europe. And, I think you did well, in your trip.

Thanks for posting the report, Chantielle, I've actually wondered from time to time how your trip went because I remembered your posts from when you were back in the planning stages.

I'm glad your trip went well and you enjoyed yourselves. My husband and I tend to roll pretty fast, too, although maybe not quite so fast as you. :) I'd say that since you had a good time and were able to keep up the pace then go with it! There's certainly nothing wrong with this style, and it's not to say that down the road you wouldn't prefer to mix in a little bit of slower travel, too.

But again, thanks for the report!

Ron: the mosh pit atmosphere went a little like this.

There was a huge crowd around the Mona Lisa, to be expected right, so we waited a few minutes and tried to keep sneaking in a little closer as people from the front left, well that was crazy enough. When we finally got to the front where we could actually take some pictures of the Mona Lisa some other people decided not to be as patient as everyone else and push there way in. So then it became a virtual mosh pit, with some people pushing to get in and some pushing to get out, and I mean really good pushing. We thought it was hilarious and just started laughing! When we finally made it out we couldn't stop laughing.

Ya, Chantielle, there are probably two dozen or more other things to see -- Appian Way, catacombs, the Borghese gardens, Baths of Caracajja, Trastevere, etc., etc., -- the list is endless. Your are dealing with three thousand years of history and you cannot see it in two days. I will explain it at the next coffee.

At your pace you were just walking by. I don't see how you did all the things you did on your second day in Rome, It took us nearly a full day just for OA, and ST. Paul, Outside-the-wall. A another nearly full day for just the Colosseum, the Forum and Palatine Hill. But that is the speed we travel at and it works for us.

I am not faulting your for your pace but it would not work for us and for many others. But as along as your enjoyed it.

We spent a good 4 hours at O.A. so I know what you are talking about. We toured the whole thing and loved it.
We spent a good amount of time, probably about 4 hours between the ancient roman site (col. pal hill and forum) and enjoyed all of it.

I think we are just crazy fast travellers, but we loved it!

Chantielle,

You sure packed a lot into your two weeks!

We spent a week in Rome and I long to return. A week was not enough, and we did not see all that you did. You guys would probably be able to give Rick Steves a run for his money, LOL

Sounds like you had a wonderful trip and got to see all that you set your heart on. When is your next trip? :-)

Hi Chantielle...sounds like you had an amazing trip and really enjoyed yourself. My last trip (2004) was pretty fast paced, but I was with my 3 teenage daughters. My upcoming trip (next Monday!) is slower paced because that's how my hubby rolls. ;)

I agree with you about Venice. I was there for one day and felt like that was enough. In fact, we're not going at all on this trip.

Now Rome is a different story. I had a negative experience on my last trip to Rome because we were ripped off at a restaurant and had a bad experience with our accommodations. I swore I would never return...until I got home and realized I was being silly. Rome is an amazing city and I'm not going to write it off after one visit. My husband and son really want to go, so I did a TON more research and found a great B&B and I will not eat ANYWHERE without prices posted.

We plan to go to Pompeii while we're there...is Ostia Antica similar?

Also, where is the Slug & Lettuce Pub? That Sticky Toffee pudding sounds delicious.

Not sure when we are going back, but I am making my wish list for next time.
I think realistically we may go back in 2012 to see the olympics in London, my sister and mom really want to go then so that could be our next trip, especially since my husband loved London, I might be able to convince to go back to Europe for that.

If we do go for the 2012 games any advice? I know it will be sooo crowded and I am not looking forward to that.

If we go in 2012 we will probably try to do more of the day trips from London and check out castles and sites in Scotland and Ireland, what should I see in those places?

Also on my wish list: Normandy in France; Castles and world war 2 sites in Germany, Switzerland (Alps)
Greece (Athens and the islands), that is all I can think of right now, but I love to travel so I am usually happy to go just about anywhere.

Our next vacation is a Disney Cruise with our daughters to Mexico, so different then ETBD but we can't leave them with my parents all the time :) We are looking forward to that too.

Cindy:
We plan to go to Pompeii while we're there...is Ostia Antica similar?

I have never been to Pompeii, but according to R.S. Ostia Antica is similar to Pompeii but it was a seaside village. I have heard that Pompeii is much more touristy and crowded. As I said OA was not crowded at all and it was really neat! It is also much closer to Rome then Pompeii, which is why we chose it instead of Pompeii. OA is about a 45 min train ride (if that) and is really easy to get to, Pompeii is a few hours away I believe (somebody correct me if I'm wrong)

Also, where is the Slug & Lettuce Pub? That Sticky Toffee pudding sounds delicious

In my journal I have noted that it is in the theatre district of London. I think it is a pretty well known pub, I had heard of it on some message boards before we left, so I think you should be able to find it by just asking around in the theatre district. I think it was right on the main drag, I would definitly recommend it, they had great garlic cibatta bread, fries, and the sticky toffee pudding of course. I hope that helps.

Pompeii and OA similar in some limited ways but very different in others. Of course, both are abandon cities. OA was the Roman sea/river port and point of entry to Rome for goods and services. It was a bustling sea port with merchants, warehouses, etc. Then during one of the many floods that occurred the Tiber River cut a new channel some distance to the west and it was no long a sea port. Over time it was slowly buried by the mud associated with many floods. It has been dug out and has similar look and feel that Pompeii has except that it is in a nice wooded area with lots of shade inside of on a hill side with no trees and very hot. Pompeii was instantly buried so it was really frozen at that time.

Both historically significant and interesting. It is really not an either or question

Glad you had a great trip. :)

"How do you think we did?" Did you have fun? If the answer is "yes," then you did fine. If the answer is "no," then you have a problem.

"Did we miss some major sites you think we should have seen while there?"

Did you miss anything you really, really, really, really, really, really, wanted to see? If your answer is "no," then that's the answer to your question. If you don't really want to go back to Rome or Venice, this question is irrevelant.

"Are we just crazy fast travelers, because we did this itinerary and enjoyed it?" ~ You enjoyed it. Enough said.

"This day was the opening of parliament so traffic was a nightmare, How do you avoid things like this? We got stuck in traffic on the bus for over an hour, the only good thing about it was the fact that we got to see the horse guard ride down to parliament while stuck on the bus."

You answered your own question. You find something to enjoy about the experience.

"What is the best London play to see while in London?" You went to it earlier - The Globe.

Where exactly was the Slug and Lettuce Pub located?

Chantielle,, sounds like a whirlwind trip,, but glad you enjoyed it.
I agree Venice is only a day or two to me,, but others seem to like longer visits.

Rome is definately worth at least 4-5 days to me,, as is Paris,, you must really hustle around.

And thanks for mentioning about the ear popping on the Eurostar,, I was beginning to think I was the only was who hated that half hour of popping through the tunnels!

Chantielle, I must say I was exhausted just reading your trip report--especially that mad dash through Rome. But if it worked for you, more power to you!!

I never noticed Rome being especially dirty but a) I've been there in the winter only and b) I'm probably busy being distracted by the architecture & history. Too bad that it didn't float your boat, but at least now you know.

Out of curiosity, how did you do with the jetlag coming and going? And it doesn't sound like you spent much time sitting around people-watching, at cafes, or exploring beyond the main tourist sites. Do you feel like this is something you would want to go back (perhaps to France or Spain) and do?

I never noticed Rome being especially dirty but a) I've been there in the winter only and b) I'm probably busy being distracted by the architecture & history. Too bad that it didn't float your boat, but at least now you know.

Don't get me wrong I was a history major in college and taught high school history for years before becoming a stay at home mom so I loved the history of Rome. During our time in Ostia Antica we were enamored with the surroundings, but in actual Rome we just felt it was dirty, especially in the subways. I did love the ancient sites, especially the Coloseum and after we toured it we did just sit and take it in for 20 minutes or so.

We are glad we went, and I am so glad that I got to see all of those places, I just don't know that I need to go again :)

Out of curiosity, how did you do with the jetlag coming and going? And it doesn't sound like you spent much time sitting around people-watching, at cafes, or exploring beyond the main tourist sites. Do you feel like this is something you would want to go back (perhaps to France or Spain) and do?

We flew from Boston to Frankfurt then to London (thanks to the British Airways strike cancelling our original direct flight) and we were able to sleep for about 5 or 6 hours. Then we went out and experienced London til about 9 pm and then we sacked out! We weren't too jet-lagged, but definitly tired every night. On the way home I didn't sleep a wink, we flew Madrid to London to Denver so it was a long day of flying and I wish I could have slept. I was jetlegged a bit, felt it for 2 days or so at home, mostly just I would wake up really early, but not too bad.

We did lots of cafes in Spain and people watched there (from our balcony in Madrid too) and a little bit in Italy. I would have liked to people watch a little more in Paris so maybe I would go back and do that, but I don't feel like we missed out.

I definitly want to go back to Barcelona, I loved it there!

"Where was the Slug and Lettuce pub?"
Slug and Lettuce is a chain, just like MacDonalds is a chain. Same menu anywhere, most of it brought in from a central distribution point and reheated/grilled on the premisies. We have 2 in York alone. Having said that the food generally is good and not too expensive. You can find the nearest one to you on their website.

Really? That's weird. I've seen plenty of McDonald's over there but never a Slug and Lettuce Pub. I'll have to ask about them next trip. Thanks. :)

Chantielle, thank you so much for the trip report. I really enjoyed it. I have been waiting to see you post, so I am glad you did. I was very curious how your trip went because sooooo often on this board people get advised to trim down and I always wonder how these ambious trips work out? It sounds like you had fun and I don't hardly even get a hint that it wore you out or that you and your husband had a meltdown. (My husband and I would have!) ;)

2 things from your report....your second day in Rome seems like a near impossibility to me! I don't know how you did it!?!? We spent a full day at the just the Vatican with: the museum, St. Peter's Square, St. Peters, the Sistene Chapel - after that we were wiped! And yet you practically fit all of Rome in one day! I think that quote "Rome wasn't built in one day" would be wrong if you had been on the planning commitee.

Secondly, Venice. I love Venice. I spent 4 nights there and would not hesitate to go back (but maybe not for 4 nights again). Venice was the last city on my very first trip to Europe. So I think I kind of relaxed there and couldn't believe we made it through Italy with little to no problems. So Venice was a HUGE "whew" for me. And no matter where we go - we always seem to enjoy finding a tiny place for a good glass of wine. Or running around the back alleys of Venice and finding the perfect meal. Also (again for my newbie eyes on my very first trip) arriving in Venice at dark and taking the vaparatto down the canel was STUNNING! And the history there was engrossing. The dodge palace, prison, worlds largest oil painting, the Friar church, not to mention the St. Mark's church and the bones of St. Mark.

Thanks again, and I am sorry that the first responder had to be well...whatever. That was in very poor taste!

Amy I am glad you and the others enjoyed reading it.

We were definitly tired every night in the beginning, one day my husband said we are going to need a vacation from this vacation. We wished we had a pedometer to see how many miles we walked each day because some days it was a ton!!! But I knew we were really ambitious for the first week or a little more and then we slowed down in Spain, especially in Madrid. My husband even asked "why did you plan so many days here with not a lot to see?" I told him that even though I like to travel crazy fast I knew we couldn't do 2 weeks nonstop without losing it! That said we were actually a little bored in Madrid, felt like we didn't have enough to do. Next time we go I will have some back up plans of day trips so that if we end up covering everything in 1 or 2 days we can quickly go to plan B and take a great day trip somewhere.

It was truly an amazing trip and I am so glad that we went! It would not have been nearly so great without all the help of the wonderful posters here, so thanks again to everyone for all of your help!

Ruth - here is a list of Slug and Lettuce pubs. Also their website.

http://www.beerintheevening.com/chains/chain.shtml/chain/7/

http://www.slugandlettuce.co.uk/

I am not too far from you over here in Boulder. Safeway sells cans of Heinz Treacle sponge pudding (same thing as what they call sticky toffee).

We just had some last night! You boil the unopened can for 30 minutes then remove both lids and push out onto a plate.

I love London and am planning on going back just for the sausage rolls! (well not really...but yea why not)!

Chantielle, If you plan to go to the summer Olympic Games at London in the year 2012, I recommend : Try to reserve a room in a hotel located near the Olympics site, now.

Here is a recipe for sticky toffee pudding. Not too difficult to make.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/stickytoffeepudding_83907

Edit - several recipes in fact!

Thanks for the info on the sticky toffee pudding, I will try the can from Safeway and some of the recipes. I love to bake so it should be fun to try and find one that tastes like what we had in London.

Chantielle,

Great idea about the pedometer! I'd like to know how many miles I'm walking, so I think I'll get one...also will make me feel better about all the amazing food I plan to eat.

Chantielle, thanks for a great trip report. We always like feedback and ideas for our own trips.

Charles, what's wrong, is the Houston heat and 100% humidity getting to you? Wring yourself out!

Denise, that is funny, LOL

My daughter would love Sticky Toffee Pudding.

We made our English breakfast the first weekend we were home. I actually found an Austrian sausage maker in town, and he had blood sausage and English bangers. I even set the table with my English china!

Glad you had a great trip. We would never think of going that fast, we love to stay settled for a week and get to know the area. We did a week in Rome and I would love to see the Borghese Museum again and all the places I missed the first time. We did a day in Bath, I can't imagine how you did this trip, but more power to you. Thanks for posting your trip recap. Made for great reading.

You asked "what do you do in Venice if you are there more than one day." Last month I was there for 6 days and it was my 2nd trip to Venice. I took the Secret Itinerary tour of the Doges which I enjoyed much more than the public rooms. We saw things like the cell where Casanova was kept and up in the attic. I also went to the Frari Church and the Accademia-two places I hadn't made it to the first time. We got up one morning very early and walked through the Rialto Market. One day we took the vaparetto to Murano, then Burano. One night we walked the Zattere at sunset and then went to a Vivaldi concert which was fabulous. But what we did most, and what I enjoy about Venice, is during the day we stayed away from the San Marcos area where the tourists are and wandered stopping now and then for a gelato, a coffee or a glass of wine or a spritz. I think Venice is one of those places you either just love or you don't. If you do go again though, wander through the back streets. It is a totally different experience.

Thanks Chantielle for the report and glad you had a good time and found new food you liked! You sure packed a lot into your days - I could never have done it. As for Venice: I used to think the same way, that once all the major sights were 'done' there wasn't much else to do. I was so wrong. I found that spending more time in one place, or returning for another visit, changes my 'relationship' to the city, and it's very interesting to reflect on how/why it changes.

We had action packed fun filled days. I definitly want to go back to Barcelona and loved the hotel we stayed out soo much in Madrid I would go back there in a second. I could see myself going back to London or Paris, but I'm just not sure about Venice or Rome, I guess maybe they are just not my favorites. If, I mean When, we get to back I will probably try to make one place a home base, at least for a part of the trip and explore that place and the daytrips available from it a little more.
Thanks again for all the help everyone, and I look forward to more answers to questions/thoughts I had.

Impressive pace you and your husband set, I'm currently planning our trip to Europe and wondering how we can fit everything we want to experience into 51 days let alone two weeks. How long did you spend visiting the major attractions and did you walk everywhere or make use of public transport?

I love art so going to Paris and not visiting the Musee d'Orsay, L'Orangerie and Monet's garden in Giverny would be a big disappointment, plus a trip to Versaille would be a must for me. The catacombs and Per Lachaise cemetary are also on our to do list in addition to many of the sights you have seen.

I've been to Venice and Rome, and although I didn't enjoy Rome at first, once I got home I realised what a buzz it was to be in such an amazing city and I can't wait to go back. Our Rome to do list includes the Palazzo Massimo, Borghese Gallery and the San Clemente Church, we love ancient history and renaissance art fascinates me. I loved Venice from the first moment I saw it, Burano and the Peggy Guggenheims museum are must sees for me and just wandering the streets and soaking up the atmosphere.

It's great that you enjoyed your trip and now have wonderful memories to relive, but I think I'll enjoy taking it slower otherwise I'd be exhausted.

Chantielle, it sounds like you saw a lot in your trip. I agree with everyone who said it is your trip, and you should travel how you want.

Having said that, I think one of the biggest downsides to seeing a lot in a small amount of time is that after awhile, it blurs together and your memories fade quicker than someone who traveled "slower." I have a lot of friends who did a whirlwind trip to Europe like you, and the one thing in common they have is that they don't really remember much of it a year or so later.

If you go back (and I'm hoping you do), you may want to try the other side of the coin, just for a different experience. Spend 2 weeks in just one country, and see how you feel after that. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at how enjoyable it is to concentrate on one area.

By the way, I will also agree that Rome deserves a second look. I spent 7 days there on one visit and 3 on another, and could easily go back again. It's a beautiful, historic and vibrant city and there is an incredible amount to see there.

Good for you Chantielle. You've got a lot of energy. The important thing is that you went. One's first trip to Europe is usually whirl-wind but subsequent trips are more focused and leisurely. My first trip to Europe was a big blur but it aroused my interest in how other people lived.
The next time I went, nothing was planned. I met lots of locals, found some great food and learned to speak a few words of French. I spent a lot of time people watching, walking and taking buses,going to markets and seeing how cheaply I could live. Shopping for food was an adventure. I got lost several time because I have a poor sense of direction. I learned to overcome my fear of being lost. I discovered that I did not have to take so many photos which caused me to miss out on the actual experience. KEEP TRAVELING