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Traveling to the "ex-Yugo" countries (Cameron Hewitt on FB)

I saw his post this morning on Facebook and it really got me to thinking about these countries, and how fascinating it would be to do what he is doing (visiting the capitals of the old Yugoslavian countries). The photos are wonderful, and it will be fun to follow along.

https://www.facebook.com/HewittCameron/posts/pfbid0HrRJvhCDrfttG6hVQhmV7rucUvbbVQcf2PwgGp7qpEDQvp3fwyJYyJsAAHVgyXyQl

Posted by
1029 posts

I’ve been to Ljubljana and Sarajevo some years ago - both of which I liked very much indeed.

Posted by
9396 posts

Those both sound very nice. None of these have really been on my radar, but I do like the idea of visiting there. I really wish I lived in Europe so traveling would be a bit easier.

Posted by
22517 posts

I wanted to visit all seven of the "Ex-Yugo" capitals (Ljubljana,
Zagreb, Sarajevo, Belgrade, Podgorica, Prishtinë, Skopje), and get to
know Albania, on my way to Greece.

Good that he sees that the concept of the back doors of Europe can be expanded from the back doors of Italy to truly the back doors of Europe as a whole and the Balkans are an excellent back way into Europe. Wonder why we had to wait until there are demonstrations in the streets of Barcelona to broaden the look.

Seeing the capitals of each sounds a little too much like ticking boxes; and the Albanians might be surprised that they were part of Yugoslavia, and Tirana isn’t what you go to Albania for, but it is where you will have to land.

Montenegro is fascinating and beautiful and keeps dragging me back (returning in a few weeks), but Titograd is about the last place I would use as an introduction to Montenegro.

Bosnia is as good as Montenegro for other reasons and Sarajevo is a gem for a few days of sightseeing and cultural amazement. But you gotta get out of Sarajevo to begin to understand the country. His timing is good as Bosnia is running a fairly high risk of being the next off-limits place due to conflict. See it while you can. But I could be wrong. That was my trip a few months ago (another repeat).

Kosovo, very interesting and the way in and out for me through the Albanian Alps was pretty spectacular. But like Bosnia, if you are interested, might be wise to do it soon.

Serbia, did he mention Serbia? never really spoke to me. Belgrade is “interesting” but the Serbs left an impression that they see life a little differently than that which I am comfortable with, so I’m probably not going back. Because it will be tied to anything that goes bad in Kosovo or Bosnia, that’s another to push to the front of the list if it interest you at all.

Croatia is very interesting, but it’s become so touristic that to pull me back I would have to find some new places to visit. I do have an idea for that. Needs more research. But like Slovenia it’s hard to reach from here.

Havent done Slovenia or N. Macedonia yet. Probably get to N. Macedonia before I do Slovenia. Easier to reach N. Macedonia from here and the tourists haven’t found it yet. Skopje looks to be about 2 days, but there looks to be things that interest me outside of the city.

If anyone wants to follow in his footsteps, the region is not the easiest to tour. To get the most out of it, I think some assistance would be incredibly helpful. The region is so inexpensive that you can afford some professional help and a few private drivers and guides and still come out cheaper than Italy or France or …… I know one that does the region if you are interested. From just planning to the full monty.

A lot of videos of the region here: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/general-europe/back-doors-to-the-back-doors-of-europe

The ”other” undiscovered treasure is Slovakia …. And I don’t mean Bratislava. Go now or wait for his review …. Some day.

Posted by
9396 posts

Seeing the capitals of each sounds a little too much like ticking boxes; and the Albanians might be surprised that they were part of Yugoslavia.

I don't think he includes Albania in with the "ex-Yugo" capitals, Mr. E. It looks like that is an additional destination that he wants to visit. And sometimes ticking boxes can be fun! :-)

Posted by
22517 posts

Mardee, you are correct. No argument at all. We are all different. I will walk past a beautiful church and splendid mosque to sit in a cafe between a tea shop full of those that can not drink and a bar full of those that drink to much ... then just watch how good people and good human nature allow them to coexist. Thats a high point of tourism for me and what I would have written about.

Posted by
1993 posts

In a few weeks I leave on a trip that includes Albania and North Macedonia. Seeing his photos and reading his stories have definitely got me psyched!

Thanks for sharing, Mardee!

Posted by
9396 posts

geovagriffith, they do look amazing!

Lane, oh that will be so cool! I can't wait to read about it! Cameron's photos make it look wonderful!

Posted by
5311 posts

Well, I hit three of these in Sept, 2023, and have otherwise been to all the countries except Kosovo and North Macedonia. They are fascinating and probably the thing that surprised me most was that, for many of the people I met, Tito and Yugoslavia were a golden age. I think it surprised me because I grew up hearing how awful communism and socialism were. So how could the people who lived under those be happy? Made for some fascinating discussion.

Belgrade interests a lot of people; but after a few days there plus a day trip a different time, I don’t need to go back. I felt uneasy - not unsafe, but uneasy. I have a hard time pinpointing why.

Albania, on the other hand, is currently calling my name for a return visit.

Posted by
9396 posts

TTM, that's doesn't surprise me. I think there were a lot of people who felt safer (or more protected) under communist and socialist rules. Did you ever see the movie "Good Bye, Lenin"? It was about a young man (played by Daniel Brühl) who hid the fact that the GDR was gone after his mother, an avid socialist, awoke from an 8-month coma, so as not to shock her. Excellent movie!

Albania is interesting me more and more.

Posted by
4877 posts

I think Albania is an underrated destination. We were there briefly on a tour and loved it.

Posted by
1637 posts

"surprised me most was that, for many of the people I met, Tito and Yugoslavia were a golden age. I think it surprised me because I grew up hearing how awful communism and socialism were."

When I was in the Baltic countries a few years ago there were many that wanted Russia back in control. They were native Russians forced to move to the Baltic counties and abandoned when Russia left. They miss their guaranteed income.

Posted by
5311 posts

When I was in the Baltic countries a few years ago there were many that wanted Russia back in control. They were native Russians forced to move to the Baltic counties and abandoned when Russia left. They miss their guaranteed income.

Probably true a number of years ago. I am in the Baltics now, moving from Lithuania through Latvia (Estonia in a few days) and am not encountering that. In the current situation with the war in Ukraine, the smaller ethnic Russian population is not very vocal. They have the opportunity to go back to Russia but most aren’t choosing to do so (I am sure the reasons are complicated). But definitely no nostalgia.

Posted by
22517 posts

History worth knowing if you are going to the Baltics. https://www.thebalticway.eu/en/history/

When I first came to Budapest 20+ years ago the older generation wanted communism back. It provided guaranteed wages (at poverty level) which was better than nothing. You would be hard pressed to find anyone that wants that now. But there is always a minority that speaks loudly and gets the press.

Interesting little fact, the Revolution of 1956 wasn’t to end communism. Sure a percentage were hoping for that, but the majority just wanted Hungarian self-rule-communism. In truth the Revolution was anti-Russian and each group in the struggle had a different end in mind. There was little cohesive about it except home rule. The same author bemoaned the removal of the Imre Nagy statue in Budapest. I also think remiinders of the past should remain. But I know that Nagy had as much in common with Josip Tito as he would have had with Keir Starmer or any form of modern democracy. The fights for independence and self rule in Eastern Europe after 1991 (and before) were pretty complex. The only history more complicated is maybe the Balkins War. I get a headache every time I read about it.

Posted by
1637 posts

"They have the opportunity to go back to Russia but most aren’t choosing to do so (I am sure the reasons are complicated). But definitely no nostalgia."

When Russia left the Baltic countries they would not let any Russian nationals return to Russia. They had no choice and had to remain where they were. The tour leader on our tour was of Russian descent so I am sure we were getting the true story. Most of the Russian nationals are in small towns that are almost 100% Russian so I doubt you had much chance to meet them.

Posted by
5311 posts

Then they are well and truly stuck. New law in Latvia is that Russian speakers must begin to learn Latvian as an indication of willingness to assimilate - or leave the country. I wonder where they would go if Russia won’t let them in. Schools will no longer teach Russian as a foreign language (this is also true in Lithuania).

Interesting that my guide said 20% of the current population of Riga is of Russian ethnicity, as opposed to Latvian. Maybe he didn’t know.

I did meet some Russian speakers yesterday but did not discuss current affairs with them.

I agree that both the Balkans and Baltics are extremely complicated.

Posted by
15472 posts

Thanks for mentioning "Good Bye, Lenin," I hadn't thought of that film in years, saw when it first came out in a theater in Pacific Heights in SF specializing on showing foreign films Unfortunately, that theater is gone.

I would also suggest Croatia. Lots of folks there speak German; obviously, there are thos preferring that to communicating in English. This is the observation of a bilingual Ger-English speaker who encountered this pleasant surprise when he was there.

Posted by
15472 posts

Hi,

If you choose Serbia and Belgrade, there is an esoteric historical site reachable by bus tour or by public transport. It's Novi Sad, the former "Gibraltar on the Danube"

It was the mighty Austrian fortress constructed to watch against a Turkish resurgence after the Habsburgs led by their most famous and victorious general , Prince Eugene , whose statue is front of the Nationalbibliothek in Vienna , had liberated Serbia. The place has been turned into a museum ...well worth seeing this piece of history in the region. In Budapest Prince Eugene has his statue.