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should I rent a car in Latvia?

I am traveling so I can go to Ludza in East Latvia, so I can find an ancestor’s grave, so I can go to the town my grandfather on my dad’s side’s parents were from before they came to the USA. My plan is to see various museums and sites before and after Ludza. This is a solo trip. I already bought plane tickets. So far my supposed itinerary is:
Flight leaves Detroit on a Friday late afternoon. Friday night on the plane. Arrive in Vilnius Saturday Afternoon. Saturday, Sunday, and Monday nights in Vilnius. Part of Tuesday in Vilnius. Late afternoon or evening bus or train to Trakai, Lithuania. Tuesday night in Trakai. Wednesday, Trakai Island castle, Karaite museum if open, whatever else, bus or train to Kaunas, Lithuania. Wednesday Thursday, and Friday nights in Kaunas. I am unsure whether I should spend a 4th night in Kaunas. That’s all I have figured out so far. I still need to fit in Riga and Ludza in the remaining 8 days Saturday, Sun, Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat and my return flights leave from Riga at 6:50am on Sunday.

Have any of you seen Rundale palace in Latvia? It is worth it? It is rather close to Bauskas castle. Maybe I can see the castle if there is extra time.

Should I rent a car at the small airport in Kaunas and drive it to the airport in Riga, stopping at the palace on the way? Prices for the rental cars start at just under approximately 200 US dollars. OR should I take the buses from Kaunas to Riga and then do a separate day trip with a rental car to the palace and maybe the castle or somewhere else? Prices for the rental picking up and dropping off the same day at the airport in Riga start at about 39 US dollars. The price of the bus trip from Kaunas to Riga is approximately 35 Euros. I have rented a car 4 times in the United States and never outside the country yet.

I probably won’t see much on the day I take the bus to Riga if I take the bus. Dropping the rental car off in another country is technically allowed but it is expensive but it is technically more time efficient.

There is a train line that has a stop in Ludza and there are buses to Ludza too but there are no Bolt or Uber or other ride share drivers or taxis in Ludza. Look for “Memorial Site of 1941 Jewish Victims” near Ludza on google maps. Which would be stupider or more reason to feel guilty for doing something weird my mom wouldn’t want me to do: Rent a car and drive it to Ludza, or take the train or bus and acquiesce to skipping sites too far to walk to from the middle of Ludza?

My mom will freak out and act psychotically scared for my safety and beg me to cancel my trip, like how she acted before I went to Spain and before some other trips (I was 38 when I went to Spain in March 2022), and I will feel like I am screwing up and doing something wrong and then I will travel anyway but part of my brain will still feel like I am doing something wrong but I will sublimate it ok and still have a good trip. I will tell her about a week or less before my trip.

Posted by
4536 posts

It is always good to read the UK Gov Foreign travel advice for a country (link to Latvia).

Check Safety and security --> Belarus border, Crime and Transport risks.

I am not sure if this applies to you: https://www.rs.gov.lv/en/borderland-regime

Maybe pictures of Latvia (Lettland) from German Federal Archive help you in any way? If you want to search other stuff use German names of places.
https://www.bild.bundesarchiv.de/dba/en/search/?yearfrom=&yearto=&query=Lettland

I also recommend reading the German Wikipedia page of Ludza which contains more details of the part of history you seem to be interested in, it contains also a today picture for the former synagogue.

DeepL Translator delivers best translation quality from / to German.

I do not know when your ancestors settled over but a lot of them used Hamburg and Bremen (in Gemany) as ports of emigration. There are still archives, e. g. Ballinstadt in Hamburg.

Posted by
159 posts

I have not been to eastern Latvia yet, but we did a road trip through all three Baltic states last summer with a rental. It was actually not that expensive to start in one country and drop off in another (in fact, we were doing the transfer back for the rental company). So you could also check another rental company.

Driving was smooth, and completely unproblematic - of course, only a personal experience, but still.

I understand the problem with your mum - if it were rational fear, it could probably be tackled with facts, but that kind of fear is often obscure and irrational, and therefore hard to solve. My in-laws had similar concerns when they heard we were driving through Canada (we are German), but they decided that it is probably best if they do not know.
You can of course try with rational facts, if you feel this helps - crime rates are low in the Baltics even for European standards, which in general are (sometimes significantly) lower than in the US. But you might have already tried that - and if so, it apparently did not help.
Just to provide a little context: You seem to live in Detroit, which in German media is only covered as some failed state equivalent of crime ridden lawlessness (if at all), just one step above Somalia. So if she is cool with that, the Baltics are a piece of cake.

Posted by
5978 posts

I would say that Rundale Palace is definitely worth a stop. It reminded me of a small Versailles. You might consider a day trip to Rundale - there are several offered from Riga that also include Bauskas.

For driving: I would say to save your day of car rental for your trip to Ludza where you don’t have other good options. OR email your lodging and see if they can help you with a driver for the day - maybe the same (or less) cost and lots less hassle.

You already know that your mom’s fears are not rational nor will they probably change. You are already doing something she will freak out about (the whole trip) so you need to make the best decision for yourself. While driving in Latvia wasn’t hard, I drive all the time in lots of places. It sounds like you do not regularly drive, so a tour or a driver might be a better choice. Don’t drive IN Riga.

Ludza is the reason for the trip, so that is one place it makes sense to not skimp.

Posted by
1179 posts

My apartment in Michigan is actually in a suburb just north of Detroit, not technically in the city of Detroit. I have driven solo to the Detroit Institute of Art, Belle Isle, and Riverwalk in Detroit. Some parts of Detroit are ok to visit as a tourist. Most of the crime is in the gang-infested ghetto residential neighborhoods the average tourist has no reason to go to. My mom grew up in the ghetto in North-west Detroit. I own a car and drive in Michigan like a "normal person". I drive just under an average of 7 thousand miles a year while some opinion say the average driver drives twelve thousand miles a year. Typically I don't go to events or places that would take more than 45 minutes driving unless it is on a weekend and I am quite sure the place or event would be worth it. I think 5 times before renting a car in travel far from home. I have driven to Chicago, Ill, Lake Michigan, the northern tip on Lower MI, and Niagara Falls NY. I don't have an anxiety about the action of actual driving. I only have low-level anxiety I probably can sublimate ok, about feeling guilty for "doing something dangerous" which might or might not be related to my mom's reactions or genetic accident. Driving is just transportation to me. It isn't my favorite activity. I have irrationally driven to places I didn't need to go to. ... I don't have a fear of driving or getting lost. I am not sure whether I "should" be afraid to rent a car due to the possibility of carjacking or getting shot while driving. Not finding a parking spot would be my top non-irrational worry. In Miami Fl and Southern CA I rented a car but the parking situation was too tight and I wish I had just used taxis or Uber or Lyft.... My great-grandfather and his wife came to the USA in 1914 so he could avoid serving in the Russian army in World War One. ... Ludza is more than two miles from the Russian border. Check the map...

Posted by
1179 posts

Supposed rest of my itinerary:

Friday various museums in Kaunas. 8th night, 3rd night in Kaunas
Saturday: Bus to Riga. 9th night. 1st night in Riga
Sunday: day trip with a rental car to Rundale palace and Bauskas Castle. 10th night. 2nd night in Riga
Monday: Various museums in Riga. 11th night. 3rd night in Riga
Tuesday: Taxi or rideshare to pick up a rental car. Drive to Ludza. Find the grave, whatever else if time. 12th night. 1st night in Ludza.
Wednesday: Local history museum, castle ruins, site of mass shooting, lakes, various streets. 13th night. 2nd night in Ludza.
Thursday: Drive back to Riga, return rental car, taxi or rideshare to hotel. 14th night. 1st night of second stay in Riga.
Friday: Various museums. 15th night. 2nd night of second stay in Riga
Saturday: Various museums. 16th night. 3rd night of second stay in Riga
Sunday: Flights back to Detroit leave at 6:50am

Posted by
1179 posts

Do you think my itinerary has too much time in Vilnius and not enough time in Riga?

Posted by
159 posts

I personally found Riga better than Vilnius - but that is a matter of taste, so hard to assess. I might have gotten lost, but how many nights was it in each place?

Posted by
2795 posts

I had 2 full days + arrival days by 12 pm in both Riga and Vilnius--with no day trips from either city, and a good plan for what I wanted to see--and ended up seeing more than that--I got a good feeling for each. More time, another full day, perhaps, would have been great, but easy to make good use of my time as each was quite walkable. If I had to choose more time in one over the other, it would be Riga. Why? I was there over a holiday, their reclamation of Independence Day--lots to see and enjoy, no complaints--and thus missed a museum and a vintage flea market, plus I am a knitter and enjoyed their shops devoted to their unique knitting traditions...and the food was fabulous!