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Second Location Near the Dolomites

My husband and I are planning to spend a week in Ortisei in early September to celebrate our 50th anniversary. We have 10-12 nights after that to go someplace else and are undecided where to go. We are thinking one or two locations. We are not open to renting a car, and we’d prefer to travel by train or bus, rather than fly.

We like walking/hiking, beautiful scenery, and historic sites. Small towns appeal to us more than cities. We hate hot weather, and we want to go somewhere we have never been. That rules out the major cities in Italy, Lake Como, Chamonix, Bavaria, Salzburg, and parts of Switzerland—Murren, Zermatt, Bern, Luzerne, and Lake Geneva.

We have thought of Slovenia, Austria, other locations in Switzerland, or even other parts of the Dolomites. We love mountains, but maybe we should change it up a bit? I would appreciate any suggestions.

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We are about your age (70’s), avid hikers, and love traveling in Switzerland and Italy in September. Here are a few of my suggestions:

Malcescine on Lago di Garda, with Monte Baldo rising behind it and offering great hiking (accessible by cable car). We arrived there last September by ferry from a town on Garda served by train, or you can take a bus or private transfer from a train station south of Bolzano, such as Rovereto or Verona.

https://www.visitmalcesine.com/en

Bettmeralp in the Valais, a car-free village perched high above the Rhône Valley. Hiking (or riding a cablecar) to the top of the ridge behind the village will give you splendid views of the Aletsch glacier, Europe’s largest. There are numerous hikes you can take and easily fill 3-4 days.

https://www.aletscharena.ch/en/aletsch-arena/places/bettmeralp (Scroll down for summer photos).

We combined those two last September, with an intermediate stop in Locarno in the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino, for a lovely 12 days of hiking and enjoying lakeside scenery. Bettmeralp is my favorite place to hike in Switzerland and I never tire of looking at that glacier.

We enjoyed Slovenia and the Julian Alps, but not as much as the above areas, and it would not be easy without a car. We went with a hiking tour (REI Adventures).

I have some other suggestions in mind but will have to go and look up some information. I will be back.

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2799 posts

Lola, These are great suggestions, and I will look into them. I really want to see Slovenia but was concerned about the lack of train service, so thanks for confirming that. I think I will look into a tour some other year.

Bettmeralp sounds ideal for next year. Lake Garda could be a good place to go before we head to Ortisei. I still don’t know how early we can leave; I’m waiting for the school schedule to come out because we babysit our granddaughters the week before school starts. We should have at least a few days and possibly ten before we go to the Dolomites. I’m thinking we could slot in Locarno either before or after Ortisei.

Thanks so much for your ideas. You are always so helpful. (Regarding my April trip to England and Wales, which you also helped me with — I am booked for four days with HF Holidays in Church Stretton. Can’t wait!)

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17547 posts

We included Locarno because we flew into and ot from Zurich, and took the scenic Treno Gottardo over the Alps to reach it. With two nights there, we had a full day to take the Postbus from the train station stop into Val Verzasca to spend the day hiking from the famed Ponte di Salti up to the stone village of Sonogno, about 8 miles on a path along the river. This was a highlight and not nearly as busy/crowded as I expected from reports of the bridge’s Instagram fame. In late September the river was low in places but still aqua-blue, crystal clear, and beautiful.

https://www.ascona-locarno.com/en/explore/valle-verzasca

Locarno itself is, well, a city, and not particularly worth visiting in its own right if it is not on your route, apart from the Valle Verzasca. But the lakeside hotels make a nice relaxing place to spend 2 nights, and there are nice nearby Italian restaurants, as well as a pedestrian path along the lake for 2+ miles. My husband fell in love with Locarno because, in his words, it offers the best of two worlds—-Swiss cleanliness and organization, and Italian cuisine and language. Also, since it is on Lago Maggiore, one can take a ferry from there to the towns along the lake, including in Italy.

In the same trip, we spent a week hiking around Lago Maggiore with HF Holidays, and the day we spent hiking above Cannobio, then ending in town, was the best. Most of the other hiking was too easy for us, and not as scenic as we expected, so I would not recommend that HF Holidays trip for you.

But one I would recommend is their new Brenta Dolomites trip, which is offered in early September. That might be a better fit than Malcescine if you have the time. I had a trip to the Brenta Dolomites planned with my sister and her family 20 years ago, but had to cancel due to health reasons. I have been trying to get there ever since, but like you we don’t rent cars so needed a guided hiking trip. We will be going there next July with the company we used for hiking Val Gardena, Tre Cime, etc. 2 years ago. (Mountain Hiking Holidays). But had I know HFH was going to offer a trip there I would have chosen that.

https://www.hfholidays.co.uk/holidays-and-tours/discover-italys-brenta-dolomites?format=pdf&vid=3628

They also offer 2 different hiking tours around Lago di Garda, but we are perfectly happy doing that independently. On our way to Malcescine we spent 2 nights in Salò to break up the ferry journey from Desenzano (coming by train from Locarno). This is a lovely, untouristy town on the west side of the lake, south from Malcescine; appreciated by my Italophile husband as the “last stand” place for Mussolini—-he set up a government there late in the war. In addition to viewing his former headquarters (just a walk past), we walked to the next village of Gardone di Riviera to visit the very interesting Heller Gardens, full of quirky art and beautiful plantings.

https://www.thecollector.com/italian-social-republic-salo/

https://hellergarden.com/