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Reflections on 19 Days in Bulgaria

I post this here in Gen Europe hoping that more will read it and those planning their 2nd or third trip to the Continent will give serious consideration to adding in time in Bulgaria in their itinerary...you wont regret it.

After 19 days in Bulgaria I can say without doubt I am thoroughly charmed, impressed and a bit in awe of Bulgaria and it’s people.

I rented a car in Sofia and put over 1600 kilometers on it driving from Sofia to Central rural Bulgaria (Ostrets) to Veliko Tărnovo to Ruse in the far north on the banks of the Danube and then down to Plovdiv (the European Capital of Culture for 2019 along with Matea Italy )then out and over the mountains to Rila Monastery and back to Sofia. A giant circle tour of Bulgaria.

I met an enormous number of Bulgarians, ate countless incredibly delicious meals, attended live Opera and stage plays and marveled at the history that goes back to 6000 BC.

I have come away with a greater appreciation for the heavy wet wool blanket of communist daily life, architecture and crumbling infrastructure. I have gained an immense admiration for the Bulgarians as a people who are always ready to help you as a traveler and be patient with you in the extreme. I have also seen that the US could learn a few things from this country too.

At every turn from a mini market in Plovdiv, on the street in Sofia, in small towns and large Bulgarians who were watching you bravely tackle their language and alphabet came to your rescue time and again...almost always in perfect English and with a smile. And in those cases when they didn’t speak English they were patient and helpful to a fault.

RS is right if you only have time for one city in Bulgaria make it Plovdiv and do not miss the Archeological Museum. We all fell in love with it and the city. The remains of the Ancient Roman city of Trimontium are scattered around the core of Plovdiv and at every turn you come face to face with history and the Roman genius of city planning. And Do Not miss the chance to see a performance at the Ancient Roman Amphitheatre. But Sofia with it’s grand imperial style buildings and lively scene is great too. Veliko Tărnovo the old Capital of Bulgaria and the center of it’s founding mythology is incredibly interesting architecturally and historically and a very nice city with pleasant parks and walks.

Everywhere in Bulgaria you eat well and drink well very economically. The local beer is top notch and the wines are very good. Try Rakia. I now have my favorite, which once I tasted it I had the waiter write it down in Cyrillic for me so I could reliably order that brand again.

The Bulgarian concept of what a “Salad” can be so outstrips our concept that you have to see them and taste them to understand. Try them all. (With Rakia, Preferably Straldjanska)

I am also impressed by how determined, modern and forward looking most Bulgarians I met were. Many are well travelled and have lived and worked overseas, many in America...I have met 4 who have lived in North Carolina!

We loved Bulgaria and will certainly return again. Now I know that some may criticize me and complain that I have only given you a “rose colored” view of the place. That I left out this and that important detail of communist rule, history and the struggles of daily life for the poor etc. They would be right. Yes everywhere has problems and I can see them and understand some of them here. But I try to see the whole picture and frankly the problems are not the reason to visit...the good things are.

Posted by
893 posts

You're right, must be tough for many people there:

According to the United Nations, the 10 fastest shrinking countries on earth are in Eastern Europe. Japan, perhaps the country with the most oft-analyzed demographic challenges, is 11th. Many of those countries are struggling economically, with aging populations, a lack of skilled labor and — in some cases — restrictive immigration policies.

Populations shrinking most quickly from now to 2050
1 Bulgaria -23%
2 Latvia -22%
3 Moldova -19%
4 Ukraine -18%
5 Croatia -17%

https://www.axios.com/eastern-europe-is-shrinking-before-our-eyes-1516559604-5b103657-f029-429c-bed8-182cfa43651f.html

Posted by
7053 posts

You keep this single laser focus on the communist rule while ignoring the much harsher post-communist transition after the fall of the USSR and then the 2008/9 recession - why? Like Kaleuku wrote in a related post, it's the latter that has more explanatory power re: where the Bulgarians are today. It has been a long time since communism, time for an update. You don't need to mention either in a tourist review, but if you only talk about communist rule, you're leaving out a chunk of important history and giving people who are mostly totally unfamiliar with Bulgaria a lopsided view. Those depopulation statistics above are really striking - not a good sign for Bulgaria.

On an unrelated note: how did you get your dog on a night train to Istanbul after your time in Bulgaria? Do they allow pets on the train? What about accommodations in Istanbul?

Posted by
2456 posts

Thanks for this review of a country little known in the US. I spent a similar amount of time in Bulgaria in 2016, several days traveling on my own, then about 12 days on the excellent RS Bulgaria Tour. I had little in the way of expectations, was very impressed with the country and its friendly and very helpful people and also really enjoyed the local cuisine. The general absense of tourists added to the authentic experience. For those not interested in renting a car and covering the country as you did, I want to say that the RS Bulgaria Tour and its guide Stefan are truly exceptional. The interactive stops involving everyday Bulgarian people and neighborhoods, who do not work interfacing with foreign visitors (as do guides, waiters, hotel staff, taxi drivers, etc) were enlightening, fun and certainly difficult to arrange on your own. The overnight stay at the Rila Monastery was a spectacular time. And I, for one, really enjoyed Sofia. And yes, costs in Bulgaria, whether on your own or as part of the RS Tour, are really economical. Note: while in Nessebar, I decided to take a local bus and see what Sunny Beach was all about (a Black Sea resort area, built for Russian beach-goers, I understand). I spent the worst 15 minutes of my time in Bulgaria, and more generally Europe, in Sunny Beach, and certainly recommend skipping it. It was fitting that when I decided to quickly get out of town, I asked someone for directions back to the bus stop, and was told: it’s right over there, under the big billboard that says, and shows, Go-Go Girls!

Posted by
893 posts

I think it is important to look back on communism and what it does to a people and place.

It's striking how differently eastern Europe has changed over the last 25 years compared to China. I don't know why. The Axios article lists what they think are the 3 chief reasons in Bulgaria: low birth rate, departures, & low immigration. There may be more causes than that since China also has low birth rates & low immigration, although they have had high migrations from the hinterlands into the coastal cities.

Posted by
546 posts

Let me say this if I might; To Kaeleku, while your posts are always thoughtful and interesting and I certainly value your contributions not only to my threads but to others as well, I think you are a bit amiss here insisting on what others should write or not. What you write bout Bulgaria has truth to it. What you are assuming about me does not.

I do not come to this place (the forum) to give college level courses on modern Bulgarian History. There is neither the space or the patience on the part of the reader to delve so deeply into the subject. In fact in one of my other posts to the forum one responder made it rather nastily clear that he thought I was too long winded as it is. ( and he may be right).

What I Do come here to the forums for is to share My views about what I have seen the places I have been, to encourage others to try new places or re-visit old ones in new ways. I come here to share experiences good and bad with the logistics of travel and the joys of visiting new and interesting places.

Now directly to your question: Why do I mention the Communist legacy over other issues? Not because I see the world in simple terms for sure and not because I am stuck in the past in that old divide between Communism and Capitalism. I do so because it is arguably THE overriding issue of Bulgarian history in the post WWII era of the 20th Century that most Americans know about. It is also the most apparent and visible legacy one sees when visiting Bulgaria.

Some might argue that I delve too deeply sometimes into the arcane and historical in my posts as it is. But they are my posts. Written by me about my experiences and reflections about the places I visit. I try hard not to lose readers interest in the weeds of Bulgarian (or any other) history when all I am trying to do is encourage folks to go. They can decide for themselves what parts of Bulgarian history are important and interesting to them and read about it on their own.

They don’t need me for that.

Posted by
3526 posts

I enjoyed reading your post and I would certainly consider going to Bulgaria. Your enjoyment of the country is obvious.

Posted by
235 posts

Thanks for the insightful report on Bulgaria. As usual, your enthusiasm and commentary make reading your posts quite enjoyable.

Posted by
389 posts

I think it's interesting to note that the 'periphery' of the Eastern bloc (the satellite states such as Poland and Bulgaria) were wealthier and often freer than the 'heart' of the bloc (Russia). I read an account of an American who visited Poland in the '70s after living in the Soviet Union-- Poland was a comparative paradise in terms of availability of consumer goods and food quality.

Posted by
546 posts

Let's go back to discussing Bulgaria. And trying to get people to consider it as a destination. And what a wonderful place it is.

Posted by
603 posts

Aarthurperry, sounds like a great trip. I love it when visitors to Europe branch out from the usual rut and go explore something different. How was driving in Bulgaria, and outside of the salads what part of local cuisine did you enjoy?

Posted by
546 posts

Oh gosh, Bulgarian food is so very good it is hard to know where to start. Of course it shares a lot of commonality with other regional cuisines but one thing that sets it apart is that great care is taken in presentation even at the simplest places. You order something and what you get set on your table will often make you inhale in surprise and delight.

Some of my favorites are the Kavarma which seems to be elastic in its recipe depending on where you are, any of the starters all of the cheese and the very tasty grilled meats. The "meatballs" were great. The pork neck dishes and the pork shanks were truly amazing.

It's hearty and filling food. But they take great care and pride in their preparation and presentation. And if you want to see a Bulgarian smile...tell them how much you love their food.

Posted by
14915 posts

It is that communism that came to power in Europe was based on Soviet totalitarianism with all its horrors. Even break way Yugoslavia the single party police state was evident. Read up on the history of totalitarianism, if you don't know it already.