I post this here in Gen Europe hoping that more will read it and those planning their 2nd or third trip to the Continent will give serious consideration to adding in time in Bulgaria in their itinerary...you wont regret it.
After 19 days in Bulgaria I can say without doubt I am thoroughly charmed, impressed and a bit in awe of Bulgaria and it’s people.
I rented a car in Sofia and put over 1600 kilometers on it driving from Sofia to Central rural Bulgaria (Ostrets) to Veliko Tărnovo to Ruse in the far north on the banks of the Danube and then down to Plovdiv (the European Capital of Culture for 2019 along with Matea Italy )then out and over the mountains to Rila Monastery and back to Sofia. A giant circle tour of Bulgaria.
I met an enormous number of Bulgarians, ate countless incredibly delicious meals, attended live Opera and stage plays and marveled at the history that goes back to 6000 BC.
I have come away with a greater appreciation for the heavy wet wool blanket of communist daily life, architecture and crumbling infrastructure. I have gained an immense admiration for the Bulgarians as a people who are always ready to help you as a traveler and be patient with you in the extreme. I have also seen that the US could learn a few things from this country too.
At every turn from a mini market in Plovdiv, on the street in Sofia, in small towns and large Bulgarians who were watching you bravely tackle their language and alphabet came to your rescue time and again...almost always in perfect English and with a smile. And in those cases when they didn’t speak English they were patient and helpful to a fault.
RS is right if you only have time for one city in Bulgaria make it Plovdiv and do not miss the Archeological Museum. We all fell in love with it and the city. The remains of the Ancient Roman city of Trimontium are scattered around the core of Plovdiv and at every turn you come face to face with history and the Roman genius of city planning. And Do Not miss the chance to see a performance at the Ancient Roman Amphitheatre. But Sofia with it’s grand imperial style buildings and lively scene is great too. Veliko Tărnovo the old Capital of Bulgaria and the center of it’s founding mythology is incredibly interesting architecturally and historically and a very nice city with pleasant parks and walks.
Everywhere in Bulgaria you eat well and drink well very economically. The local beer is top notch and the wines are very good. Try Rakia. I now have my favorite, which once I tasted it I had the waiter write it down in Cyrillic for me so I could reliably order that brand again.
The Bulgarian concept of what a “Salad” can be so outstrips our concept that you have to see them and taste them to understand. Try them all. (With Rakia, Preferably Straldjanska)
I am also impressed by how determined, modern and forward looking most Bulgarians I met were. Many are well travelled and have lived and worked overseas, many in America...I have met 4 who have lived in North Carolina!
We loved Bulgaria and will certainly return again. Now I know that some may criticize me and complain that I have only given you a “rose colored” view of the place. That I left out this and that important detail of communist rule, history and the struggles of daily life for the poor etc. They would be right. Yes everywhere has problems and I can see them and understand some of them here. But I try to see the whole picture and frankly the problems are not the reason to visit...the good things are.