We are in week seven after easing of lockdown in Italy on May 3rd. Regional travel was allowed starting May 18 and travel between regions was allowed on June 3rd.
We left Verbania to Torino on May 29th. Everything seemed normal including the bus to train station being 10 minutes late.... then we entered the world of traveling with Covid 19 rules. On the bus, every other seat was signed to not sit in. No entry through the front door, and 8 feet behind the driver roped off. The validation machine for bus tickets was now at the back door. We buy our bus tickets at the Tabacchi to save .50 per ticket., but clearly the bus driver no longer sold bus tickets. Also masks are required on all public transportation and 100% of passengers in compliance. There were even foot step stickers on the floor showing where you could stand.
Then we arrive at the train station. Our train toward Milan only had 6 of us on the platform. Normally would be dozens of people. Then once we boarded the train, every other seat was clearly marked to keep free. Signs were posted that masks and gloves were required. Tom, Barley and I were the only passengers in our car.
Since only travel within Piedmont was allowed, we had to avoid Lombardy (Milan Centrale) by changing trains in Arona to Novara, then on to Turin. Piedmont had issued an order that everyone was to wear a mask inside and outside as this was a holiday weekend. So wandering around Turin, mask compliance was really good. All restaurants require wait staff to wear masks. In Turin, churches and museums were not open yet. But the city was busy with lots of people. We even witnessed a socially distanced protest with signs. After hamburgers at an Irish Pub and dinner at a sushi restaurant, we headed to Alba by regional train for three nights.
As we continued to ride trains, each carriage had doors clearly labeled entrance or exit. Then once in the carriage, arrows and footprints on the floor directed passengers to the exit doors. Again, 100% mask compliance on trains. On the platforms, there were circles stating “stand here” so people would not crowd on the trains. In busier train stations, they had arrows to direct foot traffic. Signs on stairs said to keep three stairs between persons.
In Alba we hired a private driver for the day and visited three wineries and stopped for a great lunch. And of course we all wore masks in the car.
Next stop was Riomaggiore in Cinque Terre on June 3rd. Restaurants were just beginning to open up and there were very few visitors. We were asked a lot where we were from, and responded we live here, but from US. People were genuinely happy to have a few tourists. The first day, it rained a lot, but the second day we hiked up a bunch of stairs above Riomaggiore, then across the bridge and down to Manorola. Then train to Vernazza. So different crowd free than our 2013 visit. Ferries weren’t running yet, and trains ran once an hour, with 50% of seats empty and no cars filled to 50% capacity.
In Rio Maggiore we ate at a Michelin star restaurant that had just opened that night.
Next stop was just up the coast to Chiavari. There was a dog beach across from our hotel, so Barley was ecstatic to chase sticks in the surf.
Last stop of our trip was Modena for three nights. Again, more rain, but stayed at a great place just outside the city center. The second night we finally ate at Osteria Francescana, voted the best restaurant in the world in 2018. 12 courses of food and 8 courses of wine and drinks later....what a fabulous evening.
The next day we arranged a private tour for cheese making, balsamic vinegar, and the Ferrari Museum. Since we had Barley, both private tours were happy to take Barley, and drivers would dog sit when Tom and I did tours.
2 weeks later we arrived back home to Verbania where life was much more active and alive than two weeks ago. Was so great to travel again!