My girlfriend and I will spend several months in Europe next year, I'm a singer, and really want to hear as much singing as possible there-- opera, folk, etc. (Maybe get to sing with locals once or twice! :)
I've read that one needs to dress for opera-- at least a coat and slacks for men-- and I'm trying to square that with Rick's advice to travel light. Does anyone else have experience and suggestions?
Thanks!
I've been to the opera and to the theatre in Europe, and while you do not need to dress (with the exception of La Scala, where black tie is requested for premieres and a suitcoat and tie for everything else) you will probably feel like a schlub if don't at least wear clean, pressed slacks, a shirt with a collar (it can be an open collar) and a sports jacket. Or maybe a nice sweater instead of a sports jacket.
The point is that these days it's really more about how you feel. You won't be prohibited from going in (I've seen jeans and sneakers pretty much everywhere) but you might feel like you should put on something nicer, in honor of the venue and the occasion. It just feels more "fitting," somehow.
So how to do that and pack light? Bring a pair of nice slacks and a sport coat as part of your regular wardrobe! For a week in Europe my husband gets everything he needs into a duffel bag, and it includes 2 pairs of jeans, 2 pairs of nice slacks, 2 nice merino wool or cashmere sweaters, a few t-shirts, and 3 or 4 collared shirts (he gets them folded at the dry cleaner before we go, rather than on hangers). If he brings a sport coat he wears it on the plane and uses it as his everyday jacket once we get there. (Obviously you'd scale that up a tad for a month. But likely not much more than a tad.)
Doing it that way - incorporating nicer clothes into your daily mix - you don't end up packing items of clothing that you are only going to wear once.
And in your case, since you plan on seeing a lot of performances, it just makes sense to pack a couple of "nicer" pieces so you can look good and represent when you go!
You didn't ask, Joe, and I don't know if we have dealt with this with you before, but make sure that your "several months in Europe" doesn't exceed 90 days in any 180 within the 26 countries of the Schengen agreement unless you have made other visa arrangements. Penalties can be severe.
I wish we could see thread history for posters.
I suggest you visit the web site for the particular opera house to determine if they have a dress code and if there are performances when you plan to be there. Generally speaking opera houses close during the summer months but there are opera festivals and opera concerts in many cities.
Most opera houses do not have a dress code but may suggest business casual. (ie, slacks rather than jeans, and a jacket, so you feel more comfortable fitting in the rest of the crowd and do not "offend the decorum of the house".) Guidelines for women are similar, nice slacks or a skirt, no need to wear a gown or even a dress. Warning! If you attend a premier event or a gala it may be black tie required.
By the way, I have yet to see the Met Opera in NYC turn anyone away beacuse they are wearing jeans...which I, mean they, sometimes do...
Not all opera will have a dress code. Seville's opera "house" is al fresco (and a very pleasant venue).
However, I have found that a simple black blazer is quite functional, as well as (perhaps) fashionable. It's an appropriate layer for many conditions, and the pockets are handy. A light pair of slacks is similarly useful. (You are bringing pants, right? Make one pair dark.) You'll be prepared for anything.
Of course it depends on when and where.
Joe , We recently returned from an extended stay in Europe ( within Schengen rules ) and attended several performances while we were there . I think one has to weigh decorum with the need to pack as lightly as possible . I had received fine advice from James from Frisco ( To the East section of this site ) about performances in Budapest and that Hungarians take these events seriously . Dressing properly is an important element of an evening . I assumed that things would be similar in Vienna , and they were . So , as a result I had a pair of slacks , along with a dress shirt and tie . My everyday shoes were of a cut and color that didn't attract attention ( As the line in Shawshank Redemption goes " I mean , how often do you look at a man's shoes ? " certainly NO white sneakers !! ) Carrying a jacket seemed to be a bit much in maintaining a light pack . It worked out very well . No one in the Palace of the Arts and the Hungarian State Opera in Budapest , or in The Musikverein in Vienna cast a disapproving glance . Enjoy the music , it's wonderful !!
Germany is awash with opera at budget-friendly prices. Berlin alone supports at least three subsidized opera companies where major artists perform yet tickets are half or less what you would pay in North America.
Budapest is an economical version of Paris in some ways and certainly its huge state opera house couldn't be friendlier (although performance subtitles in the Hungarian language won't help tourists.) Again the tickets are cheap because opera is considered a national showcase. I saw a Wagner production and thought one of the intermissions was unusually long. Later I heard that the orchestra, being civil servants, get a mid-performance meal during long performances. Even the triangle-player, who was in the pit for no more than five minutes total, triangle having not much role to play during the thunder of Wagner.
Google something like Opera and Europe to find lots of sites providing information. These days many opera houses are up-to-date in selling tickets over the Internet.
It might be profitable to look for religious singing, as churches can play host to fine choral performances, in Paris for example where music seems to be the major use for some fine old churches.
Also in Paris, diligence on the Internet can turn up opera, either fully staged or in concert, outside the famous opera houses. Theatre du Chatelet, for instance, has broad programming with occasional operas. Not, alas, at bargain prices. Of course there is a wide range of other styles as befits one of the world's cultural capitals. Regional theatres and concert halls throughout France present much state-supported music.
I agree that most European theatres I know -- and I do not know Italy -- can't afford to be picky about the appearance of the customers. Just don't hum along. No opera karaoke.
Thank you to everyone for the feedback. What Steven said about weighing decorum with the need to pack as lightly as possible-- that's what's been on my mind. Where to place the balance point is the issue. It sounds like slacks and a dress shirt will definitely make the cut, with a blazer TBD.
I appreciate the tips on internet searching/ticketing-- and looking for religious chorales as well. I'm looking forward to hearing local music in Spain and Italy-- also the music I've seen in Ricks shows on Switzerland and Croatia. Contemporary music too. I won't be singing along to LA BOHEME (unless it's under my breath) but a few karaoke or open mic experiences would certainly make the trip special.
Nigel- you've been very helpful on the Schengen info. Right now the plan is 2.5 months in Spring (Italy, Spain, France), and about the same in the Fall (Swiss Alps, Rhine River, Munich, Vienna, Prague & Budapest). Summer will be some combination of non-Schengen travel-- UK, Croatia, and a US road trip.
Thanks again
I've packed a light weight sport jacket on trips with out issues. Something in the wrinkle resistant vein is handy to have. You just might find yourself wearing it quite often when you want to go out and feel like your dressed up when you really aren't. I've gone the Opera Bastille, Lascala, La Fenice, and while, yes, a lot of people go dressed to kill, there are still plenty of music-lover student types that go without too much pretention.
I go to the Opera and theaters in Budapest on a fairly regular basis. One of the things I enjoy about them is that they are very much a Hungarian experience and not a prime tourist destination. Here you can mix with Hungarians and be deeper into the culture of the land. It’s a fascinating and enjoyable experience. The best seats that will set you back about $40 will be predominately Hungarian guests while the cheap seats in the balcony will be possibly 30% tourists; maybe more when a tour bus is passing through town or one or more of the cruise boats is at dock. Since this is a Hungarian event I believe it’s proper to view myself as a tourist guest and dress and behave accordingly. The Hungarians love their theater, it’s an important night out for them and the dress for the event. It’s also an event that crosses all the economic barriers in the culture so in one box you might see a wealthy couple in black tie and an older pensionioner couple dressed in their best outfits; purchased in 1978. But still worn with care and dignity. I’ve been in this argument in the past and I have been told I am wrong in my perception of how people are dressed so the last couple of times I counted the men I could see who had no suit or sports coat. The number both times was minimal and more often than not it was easy to identify them as tourists. Will they keep you out if you show up in tennis shoes and jeans? No. But If you don’t value the event enough to purchase and carry a pair of microfiber slacks (never wrinkle) and a cheap microfiber sports coat (again no wrinkles) and pack them away then maybe you should choose different venues. My wife and I often travel to Budapest with two hard shell carryon bags, her rather large purse and my small backpack. I wear the sports coat on the plane and everything else fits in the luggage. That’s the price I pay to show the others, the Hungarian locals, in the theater my respect. As for the subtitles. Yes, in the Opera they will be in Hungarian but at the Operett Theater there are a number of productions that have English subtitles. We have seen a half dozen shows there and if you purchase a seat in one of the boxes you get invited into a parlor at intermission where you share a table with the other guests and are served Champaign and hors d'oeuvres . We have had amazing conversations with Hungarians at those intermissions and I promise you every gentleman in the parlor had a coat and tie. For the Opera and the Operett because they are so popular you pretty much have to purchase the tickets the week they go on sale. Get reservations at Callas restaurant next door to the Opera for after the theater.
Having said all of that, there are afternoon performances. I have never been to one but I would imagine that they are more casual and well suited for the Rick Steves way of travel.
On another note, on the right hand side of the opera there is a little sausage shop. Purchase a link, a piece of bread, maybe a little mustard and then sit on the bench outside and if you are lucky someone will be practicing and you will hear them through the open windows of the opera house. Its sort of a neat thing to do.
Most of the theaters close around the 15th of June and don't open again until September.
I've been to the opera in Budapest, Vienna, Prague and Madrid, and to other musical events in many other cities. I haven't observed any dress code, and my husband didn't stick out with his Merrell shoes and docker-style pants. We did hang out at the entrance to La Scala and watch the crowd going inside--that did see to be very fancy, but we didn't actually see the performance.
I wish you a great trip full of lovely music!
I've been to the opera in Budapest, Vienna, Prague and Madrid, and to other musical events in many other cities. I haven't observed any dress code, and my husband didn't stick out with his Merrell shoes and docker-style pants. We did hang out at the entrance to La Scala and watch the crowd going inside--that did see to be very fancy, but we didn't actually see the performance.
I wish you a great trip full of lovely music!
Alyson, you have me beat; I haven't been to Madrid. Depending n the venue and the performance Prague and Vienna can be pretty full of tourists; one reason I have always enjoyed Budapest. But the OP didn't discuss where they were going so this is all sort of off track. The first time I went to the ROH in London they recommended black tie; the last time I went they didn't really care how you dressed. Here is the Budapest Opera audience, if you are going that way, you decide: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-w7P6LNXV5eU/UaZsJ26cmlI/AAAAAAAABRw/CRxUjwz_pUU/s1600/IMG_3136.JPG
I would like to chime in for a moment ; Frankly this has less to do with whether or not you can attend a performance regardless of your mode of dress and what is appropriate to the particular situation . Dressing in a reasonable way , given venues as are being discussed here adds something to the whole experience . James touches a nerve here : On our last evening in Budapest ,at a performance at the Opera , we met a charming couple sitting behind us who were precisely as he describes . Carefully dressed in older clothes , they were in their nineties ( he was a retired diplomat ) and it was evident how much the evening meant to them . As I am quite near seventy , I was touched by my conversation with them and was glad of James' sage advice about dress . Not being attired in an appropriate way would have cheapened the whole experience for both of us . While I would not have dressed in white or black tie , I am happy I didn't go off the other end with jeans and white sneakers . Not to be flip about this , but the same coffee served in a Styrofoam take away cup just isn't the same as it being served in a china cup with a small glass of water on the side .
Steven, I think it is an issue of the sensitivities and values of differing generations. You and I are from a different world (although you have a few years on me) Possibly one of the reasons I enjoy Central and Eastern Europe is that they have what my generation might see as more mature sensibilities. Still, my personal attitude is that I am a guest of their culture and a representative of my culture and as such I try and error on the conservative side. But that's just me and I try to not judge; but I would be a little personally agitated if a tourist in tennis shoes and Dockers entered my box at the Opera. Especially when nothing packs lighter, easier and smaller than a pair of microfiber trousers and an appropriat. shirt. I know because I do it every trip. But thank you for the compliment. Some of the most special moments we have had have been with people we met at the theater.
Steven, did you enjoy Budapest?
Joe,
If you decide to be in Budapest and Vienna on this trip and want to see an operetta, I definitely recommend you catch one by the Hungarian composer Emmerich Kalman, very popular and lovely music and performances.
Thanks everyone for the responses. I'm enjoying the conversation.
It's important to honor the event and venue-- it's something I appreciate as a performer. Dressing business casual isn't a big deal for me here at home. I guess I've been assuming slacks, dress shirts and blazer wouldn't be compatible with the RS "pack small" approach. Any pointers to specific gear is definitely appreciated,
We'll spend a couple months this Spring in Italy, Spain and France. Then we go back in Fall to hike in Switzerland, cycle along the Rhine, and visit Amsterdam, Munich, Vienna, Prague and Budapest. I don't see us doing a lot of full operas-- mostly outdoor concerts, and other events (Puccini in Lucca!!)-- but I want to "represent" well when we do.
Thanks again-
Joe
One other question-- is bringing two pair of shoes reasonable? I'm thinking a pair of walking shoes that can dress up-- say, Rockports-- and a pair of sneakers that can take more of a beating?
@ James , We loved Budapest ! The Jewish quarter , The Opera , The Children's Railway , Szentendre ,too many to list . Your enthusiastic postings here really made things come alive . I'll shortly be putting together some pictures and video for you . By the way , on Sunday afternoon , our last day in Budapest ,before attending the Opera , we had the good fortune to enjoy coffee and conversation with a lovely couple we had met that day , it was one of the highlights of our stay ;-)
For shoes I carry a pair of soft rubber sole black leather loafers. I cram socks and other small things in them when I pack so they really take no room in the suitcase.To touch on clothing again. I purchased a pair of grey microfiber slacks from some travel clothing company. In the summer I have a white wrinkle free shirt complements of Orvis, in winter I generally use a grey turtle neck knit; both summer and winter I carry the same wrinkle free blue blazer that I bought from Orvis. In the summer it’s easy to travel with nothing but carry-on luggage, but in the winter it gets a little harder; but we have done it on a few occasions. One trick to traveling light is to accept the fact that you might have to pay for laundry services. Another thing I will offer is that Europeans in general dress better in public than do Americans. My friends in Central Europe say they can always spot an American. There is nothing wrong about standing out, but if you want to get closer to the culture you might take that into consideration. Nice doesn't have to mean heavy or bulky or anti-RickSteves.
Because we have business in the region (feel sorry for me) we spend most of our time in Central and Eastern Europe. We’ve visited Western Europe and enjoyed some of the arts in the area but can’t begin to comment with any authority. Since you comment that you will find yourself in Central Europe in the Fall let me offer that there are a lot of venues; outdoor, inside, classical and contemporary. One type of performance you might keep an eye out for is Klezmer; beautiful, soulful and indicative to the region. The Budapest Klezmer Band is one example and another is the band that plays Friday evenings at the Spinoza Café in Budapest. Also watch for Jewish Festivals for more Klezmer music opportunities. Klezmer music (performed by the Budapest Klezmer Band) can also be enjoyed as part of the Operetta “The Wedding Dance” performed in the Budapest Operett Theater. Budapest also has a number of contemporary music festivals in the summer. The Budapest Sziget Festival being the largest and best known in the region. There are also classical concerts at many of the churches around town.
In answer to Fred, Emmerich Kalman (aka: Imre Kálmáns aka (born as): Imre Koppstein is a very well-known composer of Hungarian/Jewish/German origin who established himself prior to WWII. A life story that is fascinating. His statue is near the Operett Theater in Budapest. The Operett does perform a number of his creations each season but most (all?) are subtitled in German and not English. Check me on that if you are interested: http://www.operettszinhaz.hu/operett.php?nyelv=2 we really, really enjoy the Operett. Budapest also has a few very nice Jazz Clubs and dinner theater sort of performance venues. At all of these you will note that the tourists are in a very small minority and that music is very much in the fabric of the nation.
The quality of the performances in Vienna and Prague are also excellent. The Ballet in Prague is in my novice, untrained, I-don’t-know-what-I-am-talking-about eye very, very good. My only problem with the performances in either Prague or Vienna is that they seem to me to be more Tourist orientated and not as much a fabric of society as they are in Budapest, Sopron, Gyor, Bucharest and Sofia. When I travel I like to “live” the place and not just visit it. But that is solely my perception and may not be reality.
Steven, you and the misses are a class act. We enjoyed it as well. You have to admit there are not many better places for a cup of coffee (maybe the New York Palace?). You know that this place is special to us and while I try and be objective I worry that others wont see it the way we do and I don't want to ruin someone's trip by being overly enthusiastic. I am glad you enjoyed it. Merry Christmas from not-California.
James
Meet up? Always welcome. Unfortunately we have to skip Budapest this Christmas due to other commitments but we will be back in early to mid March, mid to late June and late September to early October.
JoeC If seeing these performances (multiple) is one of the main highlights of this trip, and you are obviously sensitive enough to recognize that your enjoyment will be enhanced if you dress appropriately, then by all means you should take something nicer to wear. Dressing comfortably doesn't necessarily always mean casually. Regarding balance point, surely a blazer or sport coat can substitute for a sweater or other casual jacket you might be taking. Packing light is a guidance, not a requirement. Regarding shoes, I don't think sneakers are necessary or even a good idea. I get by most trips with one pair of walking shoes, black or cordovan. With a blazer, no one will notice your slacks or shoes. Just my opinion.
Joe, if someone has already mentioned this I apologise- but if you can, you must go to the Arena in Verona. It's a magical experience and sitting on the stone steps,as people have done for hundreds of years, is amazing. We have been every year for the last 4 years and are going again this summer. World class singers and fabulous sets. Enjoy!
Seems to me the main question is coat or no coat. It goes without saying that you would wear a long sleeve collared shirt, long pants, and brown or black shoes. (The shirt doesn't have to be a "dress shirt" and the pants don't have to be "dress slacks"). James' photo of Budapest above shows a number of men without coats, though no-coat may be less acceptable in a few other places (Milan?). I think most places, as a poster noted above, have numerous student types attending who don't even own suits/sportcoats. I would research/google individual venues to get a better idea.
In my case I wear long sleeve shirts and brown/dark khaki pants a lot when traveling normally (and I travel pretty light- wrinkle resistant is key), but I understand if you're a cargo pants and t-shirts guy it's more of an adjustment.
My experience would tend to make me to believe that In the photo the gentlemen in the boxes with ties but no coat have taken their coat off upon arriving. At least for the most part. I have done the same in June. See, the Opera House isn't really air conditioned which I have always assumed to be the reason for the two month summer recess. The gentlemen in the upper most balcony are in the cheap seats. These are also the seats most readily available on short order and as such it is where you will find most of the tourists. Then there are those that love the theater but can't afford to dress any better than they do. The theater in Central/Eastern Europe crosses all economic lines. But there are no absolutes and all you can do is consider those around you and follow your conscience.
On the Operett Theater: good to know information. It would be both enlightening and delightful to see a performance of one of Kalman's operettas at the theater and hearing that lovely music. That's on my list.
One sports jacket won't kill traveling light. Adjust your other clothing items slightly to include at least one pair of dress slacks, a button-up shirt, and shoes that can be worn dressy (black plain-toed Bostonian flexlites for me). I can make it look like a tux - black slacks, black blazer (with plain buttons), white button-up shirt, and black leather dress shoes - by adding a solid, formal color, tie and coordinating pocket square, without ever having to go beyond my carry-on bag.
You can do fine a couple steps less formal than that. A sports jacket, nice shirt, dressy shoes, slacks and no tie seems perfectly acceptable.
Thanks again everyone. Sounds like I need to check out Orvis...
Fred, January and February the Operett Theater has Countess Maritza and the Gypsy Princess, both Emmerich Kálmán pieces. The Gypsy Princess is subtitled in German. Prices range from 1000ft to about 10000ft depending on the night and the time. That's $5 to $50. http://www.operett.hu/operett.php March tickets are not on sale yet. For good seats you have to move quick. Most all of the good seats sell fast.
Thanks for the information, good to know, but unfortunately I won't be there in Feb. A good friend of mine will be there at that time and would love to see a performance of "Countess Mariza" (Gräfin Mariza). Exactly, those two pieces are probably Kalman's most well known and performed works.
My husband brings along one pair of dressier black pants for the evenings out. Since he only wears them a few hours at a time, they don't need to be laundered as often, so he also wears them while his black jeans and dockers get washed. We hang the clothes and iron out the wrinkles, if we must. He has one nice casual dress shirt, with a narrow-stripe pattern, which he wears open-collar (he hates ties!). He also has a nice charcoal-grey cardigan, which he will wear with it. It's functional as one of his layers for Fall-Winter-Spring travel. His walking shoes are a sturdy pair of black Rockports, which are passe-partout shoes.
As for me, I also pack a pair of black slacks and a gold-tone pashmina (made from a "recycled" sari). That gorgeous piece of light silk weighs nothing, packs into a ziplock sandwhich bag, and looks very elegant over anything! I wear basic black orthopedic shoes everywhere.
Just this last trip, we attended a ballet at the Royal Opera House in London, a Bach Oratorio, and an Chamber Orchestra Advent concert in Salzburg. We were dressed comfortably and not shabbily - we looked and felt mid-spectrum on the appearance scale. No one looked at our basic black walking shoes.
I packed a very lightweight dark sportscoat and tie in my carry-one, hung it up once we got to the hotel in Vienna and it worked great. No wrinkles. I wore the same black Rockport walking shoes, light blue long sleeve shirt and dark slacks that I'd wear out walking the streets. If attending concerts in summertime, things are a lot less formal. I saw some guys in dark jeans and without ties and jackets and no one seemed to care. However in winter, better dress is the norm.
For me its not about what you can get away with but what shows respect. You can get away with a lot.
BUT.... enough arguing about such things because people will do what they will do. Make sure as much as possible of what you bring can be washed (as opposed to dry cleaning). One way I can pack light is I bring less and take things to get them cleaned. I always stay in a place that has a washer and dryer but I still generally take my things to a little place near the Opera in Budapest where this sweet woman will do it for me for a few thousand forints. Money well spent.
On the performances of "Countess Mariza" and "Gypsy Princess" my friend passes on his thanks for this timely information, intends to catch performances of BOTH these lovely works of operette when he is in Budapest in Feb. 2014. It's a pity the Operett Theater is closed in the summer but understandably so. I would find it a thrill to see either "Countess Mariza" or "The Gypsy Princess" performed.
Buy the tickets right now. The evening performances will sell very fast. I noticed that the prime seats for the early February performance of the The Gypsy Princess were pretty much gone but for Countess Maritza there were a few box seats, second row, right and left of center available for the early February evening performance. These seats (about $40 each) will get you invited to the parlor at intermission. Really a nice touch and a great way to interact with the locals. Later in them month Ghost is playing. Not the absolute best show we have ever seen there but still very well done and very entertaining and the overall experience can not be beat ............... and its subtitled in English. There a lot of good places to eat after the performance but Callas Café is about two blocks away and they serve the after theater crowd from the Opera and Operett. February can be sort of "Cool" but the theaters make being there wonderful.
Here are a couple of other venues you or your friend might enjoy
http://www.orfeumclub.hu/en/
http://www.bjc.hu/en.html
http://mupa.hu/en/
http://www.cottonclub.hu/site_eng.php
http://www.spinozahaz.hu/szinhaz.php?pid=21&do=theater_program&lang=en
Gotta tell you- the Traveler collection from Jos. A Banks has fabulous men's suits that are perfect for this situation. They feel smooth to the touch,do not wrinkle,are not "hot" like most synthetics; the dress shirts dry overnight and fold into a corner of the suitcase. They are not warm enough for winter travel but great for most travel and cruises. They are always running sales, too- just make sure it is the TRAVELER version. My college kids even wear their Traveler jeans as they are lighter weight than Levi's for Southern climate.
