The dessert thread brought me back to a thought on the topic of food, home and travel, something I've mulled over for a long while.
I'll overhear someone, having returned from a trip, critical of the food they had during their travels “because it wasn't like at home”. I'm disappointed by what I hear. Were they open to new experiences? In turn the traveler that returns home saying the food they had was “better than at home because it was authentic” does not fare any better in my opinion. Both are using home as the only yardstick for value, and both fail to see the food for what it actually is.
Food is a snapshot in time, a living language, constantly edited by trade, time, necessity, and location, not a permanent rule. I've really come to dislike the word “authentic” because it has come to be synonymous with good or excellent. When we say the food abroad is amazing only because it's authentic, we are ignoring the skill and history of communities back home.
When we call Chinese-American or Italian-American food "inauthentic," we are dismissing the ingenuity of immigrants who had to adapt their traditions to survive in a new land. Those dishes are the authentic record of a people finding their footing in a new place. It is not a failed version and it does not need to be “historically accurate” to be excellent.
Once that recipe crosses the border, and is cooked by people living in the UK, using British flour, British water, and British ingredients, it has been naturalized. Location is an ingredient. A few years ago in the UK, I visited a restaurant billing itself as an American diner. The menu was full of familiar items, but they were prepared in a distinctly British manner. I didn't critique it based on what I eat at home; I loved it for exactly what it was in that moment. It wasn't a wrong version of an American diner; it was a perfect British one, especially the chicken and potato waffles. I loved it.
When I travel, I try to see the food in that specific time and place without the noise of comparison. Indian food wouldn't be Indian without the Portuguese influences & introduction of the chili. Italian food in Britain is British. If I demand that a dish be “authentic” to its origin, I'm just gilding the lily and missing the story of what’s right in front of me. Like I said, food is a living language that's been edited.
Sorry for my ramblings. I'll go back to the corner now.