I’ve been traveling in Turkey for the past week.
A week ago, when I left home - Seattle, the Western hemisphere’s ground zero for the virus - people were starting to freak out. The airport (SEA) looked like a ghost town. Yet our flights to Turkey were quite full. There have been no reported cases of the virus in Turkey (yet) - so one could make the case that we are safer here than we would be had we stayed home.
Upon arrival in Istanbul, everyone got a quick, non intrusive thermal scan while walking through immigration. By and large, for the past week, everywhere we’ve been so far (Izmir to Antalya, both inland and along the coast) things seem “normal”, though somewhat slow and quiet. It is, after all, the off season, so fewer crowds are to be expected. But those in the tourist businesses (hotels and restaurants, etc.) say their business is way down - the Chinese are simply gone. And that alone marks a sudden and very dramatic change.
For us, it has been wonderful, with major sites not just free of crowds, but sometimes devoid of any other visitors at all. At Ephesus there were some tour groups, but otherwise, most places have been blissfully (for us) empty. We have had most major archeological sites entirely to ourselves, sometimes with just a few others.
Today we flew to Cappadocia, and we saw our first surgical masks on people. Here (Göreme), a very, very touristy place, business is obviously way down. Our hotel manager is lamenting the complete absence of visitors from Asia (a gigantic presence normally - there are a half-dozen Chinese restaurants and many businesses with signage in Chinese and Korean). Many shopkeepers with empty storefronts all around town.
This feels like a place that has been suffering extreme “overtourism” but that affliction or blessing (depending on your perspective) seems to have vanished overnight, and those in the business are still dizzy, stunned, and not sure how to react.
After a couple days here in Cappadocia, we head to Istanbul for a few days at the end of our trip. I received email today from our airline that our flight home from Paris has been canceled (something I knew could happen; many airlines are cutting back their schedules). They are working to rebook us and I’m confident that will happen, though possibly with a less attractive routing. We’ll see how that works out tomorrow.
I figure I f the virus is going to take me, at least I will have had a good ride and I’ll exit with a well-worn passport. For now, we are going to enjoy being here (Turkey is wonderful and we’ve loved our time here). In a week we will return to the hot zone, build a fortress out of toilet paper (if we can get through the crazies at Costco), and hunker down like our friends and neighbors in Seattle have been doing. Hand sanitizer seems plentiful here, I might buy a case of it and check that as an extra bag, then fill up the bathtub with it when I get home and spend my days there soaking in it.
Wash your hands, take your vitamins, and be kind to yourself and to others. Even without pandemics and plagues, you never know how long you have on this earth, so make every day count.