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KYIV!!!!! Ukraine

This is trip 4 to Ukraine, and 3 to Kyiv. All have been a week or less as they have been side trips from my Budapest. Both Ukraine Air and Wizz have direct flights from Budapest for under $75.

I've been to Lviv and Odesa, and while they are pretty amazing too; this place is a stunning cultural event that keeps pulling me back.

Safe? To the best of my knowledge, since independence, no tourists have ever been hurt here. Paris cant make that claim.

It has some of the same feel as Budapest did 15 years ago. Parts of town have the Prague party atmosphere. It's as "exotic" as Istanbul. What it lacks, outside of the churches and a few remaining Stalin Imperial Style buildings is great architecture.

What it does have that is unique is a nationalistic spirit, in the best sense of the word. The most popular T-Shirt slogan reads, "I am Ukranian ... Of Course I Love Freedom".

So you dont come here to see obsolete buildings or dead things under glass. You come here to stand in Maidan at sunset when some one amps up the national anthem and hundreds begin singing ... before returning to partying. You come for the monuments to and stories of Euromaidan and the battle for Donetsk Airport.

The government is still pitifully inefficient and corrupt, but people can say it out loud with safety, and there is optimism in the air.

If you want to walk amongst change, this is where you need to come.

Posted by
172 posts

Shhh! Don't tell everyone, next thing you know Kyiv will be as packed with tourists as Prague, Budapest and Kraków - and Lviv 😉

We were there last August for Independence Day - August 24. My parents came to Canada from Ukraine after WWll, to be able to celebrate Independence Day in Kyiv, on the Kreschatyk was an incredibly emotional experience.

Posted by
162 posts

I’m going to Poland in October and am seriously considering visiting Ukraine in either 2020 or 2021.

I think it’d be possible to do a two-week loop in and out of Kyiv.

A few nights in Kyiv, an overnight trip to Chernobyl, sleeper train to Lviv for a few nights, short stops in Kolomyya and Kamyanets-Podilsky, several more night in Odessa before heading back to Kyiv. Maybe find a way to add Kharkiv as well.

Of course, Ukraine is a massive country so it would take some careful planning.

Still very vague at this point, but I’ve heard only amazing things about Ukraine. I’d like to see it before it gets “discovered.”

Posted by
15777 posts

Like all your trip reports, James, this one makes me want to see it for myself. I will ponder it . . . .

Posted by
19985 posts

Chain, so I couldn't have my usual place for my entire stay in Budapest and I used the opportunity to go to Kyiv. $68 each way. Glad I did. I came here first for the 25th anniversary of Independence in 2016; barely 2 years after EuroMaidan. Like mentioned above it's a great time to be here. You can get a nice room for well under $100, but I tend to travel a bit better and I wanted to be on Maidan. The river is another good place. I head "home" tomorrow.

Language is a bit more of a barrier here than most places I've been, so a guide might be helpful. They cost $10 an hour and up. I decided to rough it and that's worked okay.

You can fly into Lviv, Kyiv and Odesa from a number of European cities and Istanbul. But flights between them all go through Kyiv, so a good schedule is to Lviv to Kyiv to Odesa and back out of Ukraine .... or the reverse.. Too big a country for me to deal with trains.

3 nights each at a minimum.

Posted by
755 posts

James, I first visited Kyiv in 1992 as part of a French group connected with icon restoration. We also traveled to reopening Russian monasteries on the same trip. When I returned to Kyiv in 2008, I was speechless at the transformation of the city and its spirit. Your post reminds me that it’s time for another visit.

Posted by
19985 posts

Just so no one gets the wrong idea. This city has some beautiful places and some fascinating experiences, but it's not a beautiful city like Budapest. Three day stay, tops, unless you are deep into cultural experiences, then a week or more.