I just came across this article written by Cameron Hewitt that goes into a lot of detail about which neighborhoods to stay in when visiting major European cities. While you may not agree with his recommendations or thoughts, I thought it was an insightful article and a helpful way of assessing areas to stay in. It’s always a tough decision to make, especially when you haven’t been to that city before.
https://blog.ricksteves.com/cameron/2023/11/europes-best-neighborhoods/
Interesting and I like the way he divides up in to what kinds of neighborhoods people might be looking for!
Thanks for bringing that to everyone's attention. For people heading to a new city I think it's a good way to start the search.
He makes good points, this is all part of knowing yourself well enough to know how you want to stay and how you want to travel.
I think Rick should start making the point in his videos, hey I really like art and churches but perhaps this isn't for you. After I've seen a few cathedrals I'm good.
Oh good, we get to critique another article on travel.
Below sounds a bit hash. Not my intent. I give the Budapest section a B-
The Budapest section is poorly edited/composed as he begins in BOLD with a neighborhood name then describes other areas. That can be confusing.
The first title is “Touristy/Central: Pest’s Town Center” His evaluation of District V is pretty accurate except for omitting a notation that its probably where you want to stay if you only have 2, maybe 3 nights in Budapest.
The then goes on to discuss Andrassy ut, which is actually District VI, but again he is pretty much spot on. I agree it’s the best place to stay and it is where I always stay.
Then the next header is "Hip/Foodie: The Seventh District". He says it overlaps the Jewish Quarter. Well, the area he is referring to doesn’t overlap, it is fully within District VII.
The small boulevard he describes separating District V from District VII is three lanes in each direction with a large divider upon which the 47/49 Tram runs.
He also refers to District VII as “one of Europe’s most engaging hipster neighborhoods.” That’s a rosy way to paint where all the European Trust Fund Brats go to get drunk every night. Loud and obnoxious after dark, but a totally different environment, lovely and interesting during the day.
Next he says, “It comes with many of the city’s best restaurants (from street food to Michelin-starred)” which is true to some degree. But of the 7 Michelin Star restaurants in Budapest only one is in District VII, however it is the only 2 star in town. Of the 29 Michelin Bib restaurants, I think four are in District VII. Not that anything needs a Michelin rating to be good, but it sort of gives you an overall idea of the neighborhood. So his comment was probably better suited for District V.
The next heading is “Charming/Residential: Buda” and it is charming and residential. He discusses that the view across the river from the green leafy Buda makes the distance to Pest worth it. Very little in the green leafy part of Buda has views across the river. From the castle district or the riverfront, yes, but that ain’t green and leafy or residential.
Now it gets a bit bizarre as under the Buda heading he begins describing upper Andrassy ut (District VI again). But, again, he is correct, a lovely and fairly convenient place to stay.
The ease with which I do this is one of the benefits (among some drawbacks) of traveling as a gay man. A search for the gay bars in the city on Google Maps indicated where the Gayborhood is, and, 95% of the time, that's where I'll end up staying. Not necessarily for those bars themselves (though I'll almost certainly stop in for a drink or 3), but because connecting, or even being in proximity of, people with whom I share an identity opens little windows into seeing what life is like for the citizens and residents of that place. Then there's the fact that, once a critical mass of LGBTQ folks have populated a neighborhood it's generally safe, vibrant, with a good variety of shops, restaurants, etc.
Scudder, I am straight and I look for the same neighborhoods because you are correct, they are generally safe, vibrant, with a good variety of shops, restaurants, etc.
I think this article would be a good starting point for general revisions to the RSE guidebook series.
Interesting article. Thanks for posting it Mardee!
I do love Cameron Hewitt 's articles.
They're all full of great information.
Interesting what he has to say about Berlin, ie, what his criteria is. If we are into assigning a grade (why not?), then I give a C+ on Berlin.
@Pam, I know! I liked that, too - it made it very organized.
@Cjean, totally agree! I know firsthand the headaches I've had trying to figure out where to stay! 😊
@phred, yes, I think he makes a good point about knowing what kind of person/traveler you are. I sometimes get sucked into that, and have to stop and think about what I really want to see and do.
@Mister E, I'm not familiar with Hungary (although it's on my list!) but would definitely refer to your recs if I ever get there.
@Scudder, I have a lot gay friends who do the same thing. And it makes sense for all the reasons you mentioned.
@stan, I think you're right. Not sure it will happen but it definitely makes me want to read more of Cameron's stuff.
@Rebecca, I've read a little bit of his stuff but not a lot. This one has intrigued me, though, will start looking for of his writings.
If we are into assigning a grade (why not?), then I give a C+ on Berlin.
I would respectfully disagree with that, Fred - at least partially. And I'm speaking as someone who went to Berlin for the first time last year, as opposed to you, a veteran traveler who speaks fluent German and who has spent decades traveling to Germany and Berlin. 😊 Meaning I think I'm more like his target audience.
But I happened to love Hackescher Markt, which was his prime pick, and would easily stay there again. It was fun, close to many sights, had lots of food places (food stores, restaurants and cafes) nearby, and was extremely convenient to public transport. Just my opinion, of course, but I always recommend it here.
Fred, the deal is that if you and I wrote it, it would be an A-. But this guy is supposed to be the primo tourist guy working for the primo tourist organization and for that one would expect depth and accuracy. The article is neither. Its a fluff piece and RS should be above that.
@ Mardee....This last trip I went to Hackischer Markt, never checked out the place before, really explored it as to its shops and restaurants, including one with "Cash Only" on its front entrance, had dinner at "The 1840 Restaurant" (don't know the exact reason for that date, other than there is an event connected to Prussian-German history with 1840...who knows?) . Hackischer Markt is certainly a place to visit, culturally interesting, and I do recommend it.
@ Mister E....Maybe I'm a tough grader. I totally defer to you on Budapest, would not presume to offer any opinion.
Perhaps I am unique in the fact that any neighborhood is fine as long as it appears reasonably safe and isn't too sleepy. My major criteria and focus is the hotel. Wherever the hotel is I want dictates my neighborhood. After a full day of sightseeing and dinner I really just don't have the interest in "hanging out" in the neighborhood at night. I do like a walk after dinner to explore a little around the hotel area, but the days of bar hopping are in the rearview mirror. Plus if there is a restaurant(s) I want to experience, public transport is just too good to tie me to a specific neighborhood.
Whether it be Paris, London or Rome the most it takes to get across these cities is 30-40 minutes. Small investment in time because i know that much travel would be rare on any given evening. But again, I never have bought into the "be a local on vacation" concept because I know I'm not and never will be. I am not sure Cameron or Rick understand we as travelers are not recognizable and treated special like they are when they spend time with local language speaking guides, introduced to restaurant owners and hotel owners looking for publicity in their guidebooks.
.This last trip I went to Hackischer Markt, never checked out the place before, really explored it as to its shops and restaurants, including one with "Cash Only" on its front entrance, had dinner at "The 1840 Restaurant" (don't know the exact reason for that date, other than there is an event connected to Prussian-German history with 1840...who knows?)
Out of nerdy interest I just looked up the restaurant website-
The area on which the square is located today was originally swampland.It was not until the demolition of the moat that the Berlin city commander Count Hans Christoph Friedrich von Hacke had the square laid out around 1750 on behalf of Frederick II. It quickly became known as the Hackescher Markt, but it was not officially renamed until July 23, 1840. Thanks to the development of public transport, the square became an important hub within Berlin around 1900. It was only after German reunification that Hackescher Markt was largely designed as a pedestrian zone. The S-Bahn station, in whose arches the Restoration [sic- Restauration] 1840 is located today, was closed at the end of the 19th century. built in the <>th century. Today it is the oldest station on the Berlin S-Bahn. The building, which is a listed building, is particularly attractive to visitors because of its brick station hall.
Thanks for the information.
Off-hand, seeing that date as the name of the restaurant in Hackischer Markt, I could only think of 1840 as the year when Frederick William IV ascended the throne, naming the restaurant in honour of him.
